Mark Maras

And cut a sunroof hole in the top so your knuckles don't scrape the headliner.

The wipers were barely adequate when they came from the factory, and they get worse at speed. 80 mph and above they start to lift.

I'm curious the weight of oil everyone is using that is experiencing a lean condition at WOT. Heavier weight oil is supposed to richen the mixture at WOT.

The cereal box cardboard doesn't break down in oil. I've never had one fail and I've made quite a few gaskets over the years.

Sounds like the problem is in the hydraulics and or adjustments. The question that remains is where did the fluid go? Have you pulled the rubber cups from the ends of the cylinders to see if either is wet inside?

Were any of the brass synchro ring teeth from one gear (2nd) worn more than another?

Recheck the battery voltage at idle and at 2500 - 3000 rpms.

The easiest items to assess are the brass synchro (balk) rings. The teeth should be sharp, wedge-shaped. Usually, the second gear teeth are rounded. Third gear, a little better. Fourth, better yet. There should be measurements in the FSM to assess the amount of wear using a feeler gauge. Got to thinking about our definition of baulk. Does it grind (snck) a bit going into second if one shifts it too fast or is it just plain difficult to get it into second?

Collins English Dictionary, A balk ring (synchro) is a rotating part of a gearbox that prevents the gears from engaging too early.

Kathy can always tell when I'm watching track videos. I'm in my chair, leaning into the corners, head forward under braking and head back while accelerating, oblivious to everything around me. I've got to go back and watch that one again. Ten full minutes in the zone. I love it.

2nd is always the first one to go bad and 3rd is usually close behind it. I think you'll find more than just 2nd worn. If I wanted to go cheap, I'd remove both housings, take a good look, check clearances and replace the obvious bad bits. However, (there's always a however) if time and money are available, all new synchros, all new bearings, and all new seals will freshen it properly. You'll have more info for decision making when you take a look inside. We know you'll "do the right thing".

@Patcon Over at 510realm.com, I found a post on repair kits for 510 hinges. NAPA 675-5157. They used the bushings in the kit but not the pins. Hope this helps. Those lower hinges are expensive.

The co. in Ukraine?, Russia? is www.diol.ru , if anyone is interested. Genuine Nissan lower hinges, Less than $67.00 US. Were Datsuns sold in the USSR back then? If not, where did the parts come from, if they do have them?

I think the answer to that question depends on one's method and the accuracy of measuring the vertical movement of the piston. Anyone had a dial indicator on a piston top lately?

I didn't go in the front door. I googled the first part # and added hinge. (82400-21002,hinge) Their site was on the list, clicked on it and the page with that hinge and the price popped up. Mysteriously, there seems to be a Co. in Russia or Ukraine that lists the hinges. Didn't investigate that one.

Thanks. That would seem to rule out water in the gas. I doubt that one could go twenty miles before the contaminated fuel made it to the engine. My previous experience has been less than ten miles.

Gut feeling. Have you considered a bad ignition condenser? A bad one is hard to diagnose and can have one chasing one's tail. I don't know how to test one. Back in the day, we'd just install a new one. They were cheap back then and still less than $10.00 at O'Reilly's today.

@cclxxxz How many miles did you drive after the fill-up and the engine dying?

Water in the bottom of an underground tank can get stirred up while the tank is being filled. If you're fueling your car at the same time, a small amount of water can get pumped into your tank along with the fuel. I'd try a bottle of Heet and see if the problem returns. Another possibility is a rust hole in the top of your tank. A bit far fetched but I've seen it in the past. 240260280 has some good ideas too. I'm going with fuel because it was the last thing you did before the problem started.

Possibly water in the fuel? Yeah, I'm bunkhouse at HybridZ.

The lack of symmetry is likely in the float settings. That's what I'd check first.

That's correct.

Halfway between the start of piston movement either direction. TDC should line up with the largest mark on your vibration dampener or timing tab depending on the year. To get it exact, "back in the day" we used a piston stop and a degree wheel. There's probably something electronic that will find it by now.

Pulled some part #s from carpartsmanual.com 1968-1973. rear upper rh 82400-21002 rear lower rh 80420-21004 spring 80422-73001 rear upper lh 82401-21002 rear lower lh 80421-21004 Check out sgnauto.com. I ran the first two #s. They list the upper hinge for $27.00. Lower hinge is $97.00. I didn't go farther than that. The business appears to be wholesale only. Not an insurmountable hurdle, IMO. Haven't found any on Craigslist yet.

What year is Cody's wagon?