Mark Maras

After you've filled the carbs with oil, how much resistance do you feel when you put the caps back on. On mine, I had to push them down with my thumb before the threads would engage. There was quite a bit of resistance. It took a couple of seconds to push each one down. Doesn't seem like much time but it's a short distance.

My 4 screws always stayed at the mark on the stem. Interesting, I'm going to do a little research.

Curtis Salgado is still alive and well in Portland. One of my favorites to listen to live. He filled the void left when Paul Delay's passed on.

That one is a good candidate for shark's mouths on the front corners. Ala, the Flying Tigers P40's in WWII.

I hope it's not too late to go back and get a few of those unicorn items before the synchronicity fades away. Trim, clips, screws, bolts, and fasteners of all types (Series one, hatch vent clips for example) are worth very little to a wrecking yard, but to anyone restoring a Z, they're priceless.

I should have added that I've never seen or heard of one.

I don't ever remember seeing one of those back in the seventies.

Jung called that kind of timing Synchronicity. You did stop on the way home and buy some lottery tickets, right?

And cut a sunroof hole in the top so your knuckles don't scrape the headliner.

The wipers were barely adequate when they came from the factory, and they get worse at speed. 80 mph and above they start to lift.

I'm curious the weight of oil everyone is using that is experiencing a lean condition at WOT. Heavier weight oil is supposed to richen the mixture at WOT.

The cereal box cardboard doesn't break down in oil. I've never had one fail and I've made quite a few gaskets over the years.

Sounds like the problem is in the hydraulics and or adjustments. The question that remains is where did the fluid go? Have you pulled the rubber cups from the ends of the cylinders to see if either is wet inside?

Were any of the brass synchro ring teeth from one gear (2nd) worn more than another?

Recheck the battery voltage at idle and at 2500 - 3000 rpms.

The easiest items to assess are the brass synchro (balk) rings. The teeth should be sharp, wedge-shaped. Usually, the second gear teeth are rounded. Third gear, a little better. Fourth, better yet. There should be measurements in the FSM to assess the amount of wear using a feeler gauge. Got to thinking about our definition of baulk. Does it grind (snck) a bit going into second if one shifts it too fast or is it just plain difficult to get it into second?

Collins English Dictionary, A balk ring (synchro) is a rotating part of a gearbox that prevents the gears from engaging too early.

Kathy can always tell when I'm watching track videos. I'm in my chair, leaning into the corners, head forward under braking and head back while accelerating, oblivious to everything around me. I've got to go back and watch that one again. Ten full minutes in the zone. I love it.

2nd is always the first one to go bad and 3rd is usually close behind it. I think you'll find more than just 2nd worn. If I wanted to go cheap, I'd remove both housings, take a good look, check clearances and replace the obvious bad bits. However, (there's always a however) if time and money are available, all new synchros, all new bearings, and all new seals will freshen it properly. You'll have more info for decision making when you take a look inside. We know you'll "do the right thing".

@Patcon Over at 510realm.com, I found a post on repair kits for 510 hinges. NAPA 675-5157. They used the bushings in the kit but not the pins. Hope this helps. Those lower hinges are expensive.

The co. in Ukraine?, Russia? is www.diol.ru , if anyone is interested. Genuine Nissan lower hinges, Less than $67.00 US. Were Datsuns sold in the USSR back then? If not, where did the parts come from, if they do have them?

I think the answer to that question depends on one's method and the accuracy of measuring the vertical movement of the piston. Anyone had a dial indicator on a piston top lately?

I didn't go in the front door. I googled the first part # and added hinge. (82400-21002,hinge) Their site was on the list, clicked on it and the page with that hinge and the price popped up. Mysteriously, there seems to be a Co. in Russia or Ukraine that lists the hinges. Didn't investigate that one.

Thanks. That would seem to rule out water in the gas. I doubt that one could go twenty miles before the contaminated fuel made it to the engine. My previous experience has been less than ten miles.

Gut feeling. Have you considered a bad ignition condenser? A bad one is hard to diagnose and can have one chasing one's tail. I don't know how to test one. Back in the day, we'd just install a new one. They were cheap back then and still less than $10.00 at O'Reilly's today.