Mark Maras

Windows 7, Chrome. My screen looks like Grannyknot's.

I haven't used Soft Seal. A quick search says it's for unfinished metal surfaces and dries to an amber color. Instead of the Soft Seal how about spraying the interior with a clear finish (epoxy, your choice) to add to the protection and not screw up the reflectiveness of the unit.

I'd wait to see the Doc. They're probably just flashbacks.

Been there, done that. I drilled a hole in the ends of the crack, ground a vee in the crack, preheated with a butane torch, welded the crack with nickel rod (I've also used rod for stainless steel) and buried it in dry sand to let it cool slowly.

I've never seen or heard of them. Do you suppose that they go in that indentation in the rocker alongside the seats in the 240's?

You didn't mention if you found any foreign matter in the rear float bowl chamber or the needle and seat. My thought on the front carb acting up is, it has now picked up some crud like the back one. I'd start by cleaning the float chamber in the front carb, reset the floats to the recommended level, reset the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns down, use a Uni-Syn to balance the carbs. As it's been running kinda poorly, I'd also change the plugs, and reset the valve clearance too. Basically, a complete tune-up to eliminate any other possibilities. It's also possible that the nozzles are sticking in the down position when the choke is off. With the choke lever off, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. If you feel the nozzles move up, lube the outside of them with some lithium grease. It may start better, for now, by using no choke and part to full throttle to compensate for the extra gas.

I've either cleaned them or replaced them if the needle tip shows wear. The problem is likely crud in the needle and seat. Check the filter in the banjo fitting while you're disassembling things again. Have you made any carb adjustments since the problem started?

The U district was a fun place to hang out "back in the day".

I'm surprised it's that easy. A Bill of Sale as proof of ownership? Oregon DMV wants a lot more paperwork than just a Bill of Sale.

I've always used anti-seize thread lube.

I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described.

Got to thinking about how I'd go about making one. I'd use several wraps of wire instead of the tape and heat the cable next to the wire clamp to spread it out.

It must have been another. I remember the tape and the 45` flared end. Same idea though. If I had a strut tube to clean out, I'd try this first.

@240260280z

I remember a fellow who made a long rotary wire brush using a length of wire rope (cable) to clean the interior of a piece of tubing. He taped around the cable about 2" up from the end and frayed the cable end out to around 45`. He chucked the other end of the cable in his drill motor and scrubbed out the interior of the tube until it was shiny.

It will probably work for a while but two things need improvement. The first problem is the wrong size connector on the chassis ground wire to the cable clamp. The weak link in that style battery clamp is the exposed, bare copper wires at the end of the main cable. The wires will start to oxidize very soon. The oxidation starts under the clamp, unseen. Replace the cable with one that has a dedicated ground wire. Probably less than $25.00 at your local parts store. You'll be glad you did. One less thing to screw with and another item checked off the list.

Use the ground wire on the new cable you're about to buy. The ground wire on the new one will be substantially smaller than the battery cable, much like your existing one. The wire size is fine.

Negative pole seems loose. All connections should be tight. I don't like the neg. battery cable clamp that I see and have used. The wire clamp rarely tightens satisfactorily and even if it does, the exposed wires corrode under the clamp. Your local parts store will have a battery cable with a chassis ground wire.

Not to my knowledge and I don't believe the AC was factory. Other discrepancies; Rare lime paint, Rare Datsun wheels. That said, the way things are going one could buy it, garage it without turning a wrench and make a tidy profit in just a couple of years. I like it because it looks exactly like my first one.

If these carbs are the early round tops, they have no accelerator pumps. Pumping the gas pedal won't add fuel, it will add more air. Have you tried starting it with fuel in the bowls, full choke, and no throttle? I'm a bit surprised it won't start and run even for a short time with fuel in the bowls.

I have MIG welded with a portable generator. Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on either of the welders or the generators that I used. I had used both welders in their respective shops with an adequate power supply, when I hooked them up to generators I immediately had to dial down the heat adjustment on the welders. Other than that, they welded the same as the shop power supply. You could rent a similar generator for the minimum time and try using it with your welder before taking the plunge.

My first thought was, ZH is either selling this one or he needs to look at it. @Zed Head Judging by the map and the fence in the pic, the car is probably at Hillsboro Towing. 895 SW Baseline St.

@Matthew Abate Hopping in the Way Back Machine back to the 70's, I seem to remember that Ansen Sprint wheels and US Indy wheels both used the same style 11/16" (hole size) lug nuts. Try searching those brands to see if they're the same size as your Shelby's. I just tried a Google search using "Ansen Sprint, US Wheel lug nuts". SCORE. Ebay. You'll see the type of lug nuts that I believe Shelby's use.

Major Correction. Along with poor light, and old eyes, we can add an old brain. The inside measurement is 11/16". The difference is 1/16". Although I couldn't feel a ridge there must be about 1/32" of smush in the holes on the face side.

It probably wasn't a full 1/16". Poor light in the basement, old eyes, etc. I do remember the lug nuts having no taper to them at all. Just a bit of a bevel at the tip to get them started into the wheel. I never thought about filing them out. I just kept putting more anti-seize on them.