Mark Maras

I'm surprised it's that easy. A Bill of Sale as proof of ownership? Oregon DMV wants a lot more paperwork than just a Bill of Sale.

I've always used anti-seize thread lube.

I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described.

Got to thinking about how I'd go about making one. I'd use several wraps of wire instead of the tape and heat the cable next to the wire clamp to spread it out.

It must have been another. I remember the tape and the 45` flared end. Same idea though. If I had a strut tube to clean out, I'd try this first.

@240260280z

I remember a fellow who made a long rotary wire brush using a length of wire rope (cable) to clean the interior of a piece of tubing. He taped around the cable about 2" up from the end and frayed the cable end out to around 45`. He chucked the other end of the cable in his drill motor and scrubbed out the interior of the tube until it was shiny.

It will probably work for a while but two things need improvement. The first problem is the wrong size connector on the chassis ground wire to the cable clamp. The weak link in that style battery clamp is the exposed, bare copper wires at the end of the main cable. The wires will start to oxidize very soon. The oxidation starts under the clamp, unseen. Replace the cable with one that has a dedicated ground wire. Probably less than $25.00 at your local parts store. You'll be glad you did. One less thing to screw with and another item checked off the list.

Use the ground wire on the new cable you're about to buy. The ground wire on the new one will be substantially smaller than the battery cable, much like your existing one. The wire size is fine.

Negative pole seems loose. All connections should be tight. I don't like the neg. battery cable clamp that I see and have used. The wire clamp rarely tightens satisfactorily and even if it does, the exposed wires corrode under the clamp. Your local parts store will have a battery cable with a chassis ground wire.

Not to my knowledge and I don't believe the AC was factory. Other discrepancies; Rare lime paint, Rare Datsun wheels. That said, the way things are going one could buy it, garage it without turning a wrench and make a tidy profit in just a couple of years. I like it because it looks exactly like my first one.

If these carbs are the early round tops, they have no accelerator pumps. Pumping the gas pedal won't add fuel, it will add more air. Have you tried starting it with fuel in the bowls, full choke, and no throttle? I'm a bit surprised it won't start and run even for a short time with fuel in the bowls.

I have MIG welded with a portable generator. Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on either of the welders or the generators that I used. I had used both welders in their respective shops with an adequate power supply, when I hooked them up to generators I immediately had to dial down the heat adjustment on the welders. Other than that, they welded the same as the shop power supply. You could rent a similar generator for the minimum time and try using it with your welder before taking the plunge.

My first thought was, ZH is either selling this one or he needs to look at it. @Zed Head Judging by the map and the fence in the pic, the car is probably at Hillsboro Towing. 895 SW Baseline St.

@Matthew Abate Hopping in the Way Back Machine back to the 70's, I seem to remember that Ansen Sprint wheels and US Indy wheels both used the same style 11/16" (hole size) lug nuts. Try searching those brands to see if they're the same size as your Shelby's. I just tried a Google search using "Ansen Sprint, US Wheel lug nuts". SCORE. Ebay. You'll see the type of lug nuts that I believe Shelby's use.

Major Correction. Along with poor light, and old eyes, we can add an old brain. The inside measurement is 11/16". The difference is 1/16". Although I couldn't feel a ridge there must be about 1/32" of smush in the holes on the face side.

It probably wasn't a full 1/16". Poor light in the basement, old eyes, etc. I do remember the lug nuts having no taper to them at all. Just a bit of a bevel at the tip to get them started into the wheel. I never thought about filing them out. I just kept putting more anti-seize on them.

The Cap'n scores again. I checked for a bur on mine, not feeling one I measured 5/8" on the face side. Well just to make sure I just measured the backside. Sure enough, 13/16". No wonder the lugnuts got more difficult to install after twenty years.

Dug out one of my previously mentioned U.S. wheels. The holes measure 5/8" and have no taper at the top, just the indent for the washer. What is the hole size on your Shelby's and is there any taper at the top of the hole?

Most of the bolts in the video looked like they needed the threads chased too. I'll stick with my tap and die set.

Post a pic of the wheels. Back in the day the aluminum wheels often didn't use tapered lug nuts. The slotted U.S. aluminum wheels that were on my 71 used a straight lug nut that fits into a hole in the wheel.

Shelves and more shelves. If one has limited floor space, the only way to go is up.

Personally, I'd rather REFRESH a $300 - $400 trans from the wrecking yard than REBUILD a totaled one. Depending on the damage in the bad one (which is considerable) it may be cheaper and easier to refresh a different one. When you tear the old one down keep everything in order, (I've used wood dowels to keep all the parts in order and correct orientation) clean and inspect one part at a time. Lots of pics. Most of us are already trying to figure out what part of the trans went first and took out the rest. BTW, How much oil was in the trans when you drained it?

An interesting test would be attaching different magnets, as well as no magnet, to the same piece of sheet metal and weld near and far from them with the welder settings unchanged. I have used triangle magnets to hold plate steel 90` when tacking. I didn't notice a difference either.

Fascinating. I've never used magnets. I doubt that I ever will. Thanks.