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About jwtaylor

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    Registered User

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    Oakley, CA 94561
  • Occupation
    Retired Senior Electronics Tech.

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Orange 12/70 build 240Z

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  1. While California does not require a SMOG test for cars before 1975, I believe that's the cut off year now, you are required to have the equipment on the car. You may be required to reinstall all original SMOG equipment if it's been removed. Now that being said, I don't know how often that happens. If you are not drag racing / driving crazy / speeding excessively probably not very often.
  2. I noticed that also. It looks like the fracture runs all the way though to the oil passage to me.
  3. Anyone know if those 3 screw adapters from Patton Machine can be made to fit/work in 4 screw bodies? I know the mounting screws are an issue, but what else? I like the idea the original carb look with injectors hidden in them.
  4. OK, and the answer is-------NO, the lower column can not be removed without removing the column. If you remove the mounting bolts at the firewall and column mount you can swing the column to the left about 4" the lower shaft will clear and can be pulled out. If you wanted to avoid messing with the wiring it could be an option. Also I do not have an engine in place so there may be problems with the exhaust, etc. Probably easier to just bite the bullet and pull it all out.
  5. I do not think it would clear the fender/frame rail mounted in the stock position. The lower portion of upper shaft is fairly long, the splines join with the upper part of the column at about the mounting point for the column. If you undo the column mounts under the dash and loosen the firewall mounting bolts you may be able to move it enough to clear the fender/frame rail. If I can get some time tomorrow I will reinstall the steering column and see if the lower column shaft will clear. My car is getting paint work done now and it is all apart so this should only take a few minutes to see if it will come out.
  6. Which set of hinges do you have? I used the white ones, in the pictures, which are from a '73. They will work on early Z if you do a small grind on the back corner so they will set as they should. First I installed the hinge pin Then the arm that runs on the roller was installed to door side of the hinge, the spring was put in it's location and then I used my bench vice to compress the arm and spring enough to allow the roller and it's pin to be started into the hole. This is kind of touchy as you have the spring compressed well to get into the hole. You can only get a small part of the arm to contact the vise jaws so be careful. Look back at post 2 - Hardway shows how he did it. The series 1 hinges are assembled in about the same procedure to get the arm pins in.
  7. Whats the build date of your car and is it a California version? That diagram you posted is for the California version. That hose is plumbed into the fuel filler on my 240. OK I see you have a Jan. 74 260. so is it a California car?
  8. There was a thread about a replacement thermostat several years, maybe quite a few years back. It was on this site or it could have been another popular early Z site, I think. I do not have a link to that thread that I can find. They were discussing a replacement thermostat that had the correct temperature range and would mount inline in the line that goes around the rear of the engine. Good luck in you search.
  9. When I did the vent tank delete on my car, may be 10 years ago, I routed the 5/8 hose to the filler neck and the 10mm on the tank front passengers side to the line to the flow guide valve for venting. Seems to work fine without an open line under the car, may need to rethink this though. Now is the time to change it if needed as the Z is torn apart for paint, any thoughts / guidance? My 240Z is a 12/70 build.
  10. Thank you for the translation. I wish I would have learned more when I was there in 1967 to 1968.
  11. This is from my 12/70 build car:
  12. The micro fiche shows the rubber plugs. Although the drawings are not very clear. They are only on the interior body side to keep water out of the inside. The only other plugs that I can think of are on the outside are the rocker panel plugs.
  13. Heat the brake drum between the wheel studs to brake the rust that forms there, you need to get it pretty hot, penetrating oil will help also. Backing off the brake shoes will greatly help if possible. The fins are delicate use a block of wood between the hammer and drum. Lastly keep at it, it took several cycles of heat and banging on them in my case.
  14. Yes a large garage/shop. House only needs to be be big enough for my bed and a kitchen / bath. I would be living primarily in the shop anyway.
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