Jump to content

jwtaylor

Members
  • Content Count

    189
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About jwtaylor

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Oakley, CA 94561
  • Occupation
    Retired Senior Electronics Tech.

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Orange 12/70 build 240Z

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Electric pumps like this work best as pushers. Try moving the pump to the rear by the tank and see if that helps.
  2. That will depend on your build date as to size, number and placement. I just made a drawing of all the holes and their diameters. I can no longer find that drawing so can't help you there.
  3. Could that have been from the original balancing? I do not see how it could have been done by rubbing on something.
  4. Just for future reference these two pictures show the routing of the fuel sender wiring on my 12/70 240Z. The ground connects to the frame rail, this needs to be connected before the tank goes in as you can not get to it with the tank in place.
  5. New batteries can and do fail. I would check the battery voltage first. You can find battery charge/voltage charts on the web. Low horn would/could be another indicator of a low battery . After running and shut down the battery would have been charged some and the engine is warm.
  6. While California does not require a SMOG test for cars before 1975, I believe that's the cut off year now, you are required to have the equipment on the car. You may be required to reinstall all original SMOG equipment if it's been removed. Now that being said, I don't know how often that happens. If you are not drag racing / driving crazy / speeding excessively probably not very often.
  7. I noticed that also. It looks like the fracture runs all the way though to the oil passage to me.
  8. Anyone know if those 3 screw adapters from Patton Machine can be made to fit/work in 4 screw bodies? I know the mounting screws are an issue, but what else? I like the idea the original carb look with injectors hidden in them.
  9. OK, and the answer is-------NO, the lower column can not be removed without removing the column. If you remove the mounting bolts at the firewall and column mount you can swing the column to the left about 4" the lower shaft will clear and can be pulled out. If you wanted to avoid messing with the wiring it could be an option. Also I do not have an engine in place so there may be problems with the exhaust, etc. Probably easier to just bite the bullet and pull it all out.
  10. I do not think it would clear the fender/frame rail mounted in the stock position. The lower portion of upper shaft is fairly long, the splines join with the upper part of the column at about the mounting point for the column. If you undo the column mounts under the dash and loosen the firewall mounting bolts you may be able to move it enough to clear the fender/frame rail. If I can get some time tomorrow I will reinstall the steering column and see if the lower column shaft will clear. My car is getting paint work done now and it is all apart so this should only take a few minutes to see if it will come out.
  11. Which set of hinges do you have? I used the white ones, in the pictures, which are from a '73. They will work on early Z if you do a small grind on the back corner so they will set as they should. First I installed the hinge pin Then the arm that runs on the roller was installed to door side of the hinge, the spring was put in it's location and then I used my bench vice to compress the arm and spring enough to allow the roller and it's pin to be started into the hole. This is kind of touchy as you have the spring compressed well to get into the hole. You can only get a small part of the arm to contact the vise jaws so be careful. Look back at post 2 - Hardway shows how he did it. The series 1 hinges are assembled in about the same procedure to get the arm pins in.
  12. Whats the build date of your car and is it a California version? That diagram you posted is for the California version. That hose is plumbed into the fuel filler on my 240. OK I see you have a Jan. 74 260. so is it a California car?
  13. There was a thread about a replacement thermostat several years, maybe quite a few years back. It was on this site or it could have been another popular early Z site, I think. I do not have a link to that thread that I can find. They were discussing a replacement thermostat that had the correct temperature range and would mount inline in the line that goes around the rear of the engine. Good luck in you search.
  14. When I did the vent tank delete on my car, may be 10 years ago, I routed the 5/8 hose to the filler neck and the 10mm on the tank front passengers side to the line to the flow guide valve for venting. Seems to work fine without an open line under the car, may need to rethink this though. Now is the time to change it if needed as the Z is torn apart for paint, any thoughts / guidance? My 240Z is a 12/70 build.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.