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100%! There are two problems (at least). First, for every job I do, I think I spend as much time cleaning and putting away all the tools I took out as I did doing the job, and second, when making a tool I constantly struggle with do I take the time to make it elegant or just get it done so I can get on with what needs to be done. Usually, it's 'Get it done - Make it elegant later'. Of course, later seldom comes. The first time I really took the time (about two days IIRC) to make something elegant was for a bolt stretch gauge - everything except the dial indicator and SHCS. I wanted to see if I could do it. Currently, I am making a tubing straightener, tubing notcher, and a ring filer - time I have, money I don't. It seems this car of mine is determined to suck up all available funds.

That’s depressing Cliff, I’m sorry. I’ll push this back into the center of the lane. I finished refurbishing the marker lights (45 yrs of dust and grime) and polished the lenses. I know people prefer the 240z front market lights but it think the 280z ones looks just fine. I’m waiting on the lower air dam still. I hate when companies don’t tell you something is back ordered. They take your money and sit on it for weeks and months. Side note I reached out to Vintage Dashes to get a new dash. And they are on a 3+ month back order and the guys wasn’t very outwardly friendly in our chats. Said, if you wait until they come in to buy, we’ll charge you more. Already $925. I wish there was a another options. Here’s the front with the lights fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point, @Conedodger. I look at this very simply, and have expected the following ever since the first vaccines were created: This virus is likely to behave like the flu virus, to which it is related. That means we'll develop vaccines (which we have). It also means the virus will mutate (which it has and will) in a similar manner to flu. Vaccines will continue to be developed and modified to cope with the variants which emerge. That's why I was vaccinated as soon as I had the opportunity. It works, and it's vastly safer than doing nothing. That's also why I expect medicine to develop annual updates or boosters to deal with the variants as they emerge. That's why I expect to have an annual "Covid shot" just like I have a "flu shot." This is all 100% predictable to anyone who takes a minute to reflect on the history of the flu virus and how we deal with it on an ongoing basis. Viruses are essentially with us forever. They emerge, we learn how to deal with them, and we find vaccines to mitigate their impact as we go forward.

I mostly stay out of the discussion of this because I went back to work to help fight the battle against this. The vaccines look to be good protection against the Delta variant. I'll add this caveat; virus' evolve. They look for a vulnerable host. If you're vaccinated, you're probably not a vulnerable host. For now, with the Delta variant, we who are vaccinated are protected. But, if the vaccine resistance continues, the virus gets to evolve and eventually, probably overcome the vaccination protection. This is simple. Don't be a vulnerable host. Get vaccinated!

Do a Google search for the term "Torque-to-Yield".

Gents can we get back to the bumper topic😂😂

There is no such thing as the best tool. If I need to pound a nail in, a micrometer does me no good, yet for precision measuring, the hammer is just as useless. Whenever I work on anything house or vehicle related, I tend to need every tool I own. If I don't own the perfect tool for a job, I either make one, or I improvise and use what I have in the toolbox already. If I have the time or think I'll ever need to do the same job again, I'll usually make a tool or jig.

[emoji16] Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

And you have an awesome car! I couldn't remember if you switched to the 240 bumpers so I did an image search and your original bumpers look fantastic with the color scheme you came up with plus the way better protection in case of an accidental bump from the rear. I love your car! You set the bar way over my head.

Have solved some problems and acquired others, fuel pump died on me so waiting a new to arrive soon, in the mean time trying to finish the rest of the car. I had a set of 240z sunvisors on the self so tried them in the 510, they fit! And fit perfectly, as if they might have been an possible option for Nissan. Spoiler and front bumper are on, brakes and clutch are bled, the rear window is done, carpet kit is in (those wrinkles are not in the finished job). Finished the SS threshold plates and installed the seats today, just need a fuel pump now.

You can also line the inside of the lamp (even refinish a corroded lamp reflector) with air conditioning silver foil tape which has adhesive backing and conforms to the curved shapes very easily. Very simple to do and that definitely increases the reflection of the bulb and the perceived brightness. Unless you're going for absolute originality, the advantages that LEDs give your electrical system made them the choice for me. I only kept a couple of incandescent bulbs in the dash so the light dimmer still works. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

RockAuto is another source. Competitive prices and discount codes from time to time. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,interior,flooring,1264

There is adjustment in this part - it can be screwed farther in or out so it properly mates with the depth of the hood latching mechanism below. You should also check the latching plate for wear. If it's worn to a bevel underneath, it may be unable to hold this part securely in place.

I would go through the usual confirming that all of the timing marks are correct. Is piston #1 really at TDC when the other marks are zero'ed, or are you assuming that zero on the damper pulley is correct? If you're at 25 degrees and you add in the typical 18 for full centrifugal advance you'd be at 43 degrees advance under acceleration. You should be getting detonation and knocking. Something's off. Does timing advance when you rev the engine and the light is on it?

When you say "run" do you mean idling, or cruising, or getting on it? And, define "crap". Carbs, EFI, engine details will help also. Not much to go on. If cam timing is on the money then stretched chain is not likely. The chain determines cam timing.

Part of the reason for owning a Z and subscribing to this site is to learn something now and then. Fel-Pro does a good job of explaining the concept and included an example for a Subaru where the head bolts had to be tightened in two steps, loosened in two steps, and then tightened in two to three steps in order to get to the "yield zone". https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/proper-installation-use-t-t-y-bolts.html

Torque to yield bolts require that how much the fastener stretches is known. Once the bolt reaches the maximum allowable stretch, it must be discarded and replaced. So yes, you are measuring how much the bolt stretches.

Good ideas. I'll try out the hydrogen peroxide tip and report back on any improvements.

The guards / supports have been sourced, awaiting shipment. Will close advert when they arrive. Thanks to all that responded.

The no.1 on the cap did not correspond with the position of the rotor. I didn’t check, I just trusted!! So when I put the leads back on the timing was somewhere between 270-290 degrees BTDC. She was struggling to start, so I gave her full choke, full throttle and ....... booooom! The charge was compressed (read heated) but not lit, the exhaust valve opened and as the charge was being pushed out, it got a spark!!!! As it hit the muffler expansion area, it found even more oxygen. 4 neighbours rushed out to check if I was OK, promptly followed by my wife rushing out of the house to tell me off for making too much noise! Now that’s the essence of true love and a solid marriage. I discovered weeks later that neighbours down the road, whom weren’t aware of my car antics, were still debating who had set off a shot gun in the road! :D Ps. The engine was just fine and if you saw my recent exhaust muffler test videos you can see she’s still singing lovely 5 years later! ;)

Not pretty, but I'm hoping it's accurate. I'll give it some time to cure and then I might spend a little time making it look prettier. And if I get a chance, maybe I'll look at some 76 or earlier. I don't know much about the 240's, but I believe everything 260 and 280 had both lighter and glove box lamps. Maybe your bulbs are just burned out?

That is the one from Thailand I was referring to in my email discussion with you. Unfortunately he doesn't sell wholesale or bulk. We hope to have some additional options (much less expensive than the actual reproduction version we currently sell) available soon.

I completely agree. In fact, I mounted the plate and also replaced my choke cable per the instructions below: https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/repair-choke-cable/ I hung up my cable housing and sprayed some carburetor cleaner inside of it to get rid of the old grease , then shot some Seafoam Deep Creep lubricant inside and let run the length of the housing. The mounting plate and new cable made the choke engagement so much smoother and will probably save the choke handle in the process.

Yes it does. Not enough coffee to fully engage my memory that early.

The reason I haven’t chimed in with my “favorite” is there are just too many to choose from. They are all my children, I don’t dare declare any particular one my favorite without risking the wrath of the others. I should lay them all out on the floor and take a group photo. At least I’ll try to contribute more to the thread I started called “Cool Tool of the Day”. One a week on Sundays perhaps.

More of your most.

Something I did with all my plastic lens was sanded them! Yep- wet sanded with ultra fine- start with maybe 800-1000 grit and work your way to 1500. Then buff out with a buffing compound. You would be surprised how well it works for fine scratches, overspray.