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Joseph@TheZStore

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Joseph@TheZStore last won the day on April 29 2016

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About Joseph@TheZStore

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    Orange, CA

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  1. I can't speak for the Koni engineers (and I'm certainly not one, lol), but as best as we understand it: The strut insulator does not impact on the Koni sleeve either way it is installed. The insulator impacts on the strut bearing in the front (or the strut spacer in the rear), and they in turn impact on the top of the spring seat. The Koni sleeve sits slightly under the top of the bearing or spacer (otherwise it would grind when you make a turn), and is not impacted. The bump stops were originally bonded to the underside of the spring seat. If you bottom out, the bump stop takes the
  2. You are exactly right, sorry about that, I had forgotten all about posting that previously. I blame 2020, lol... Koni made this setup with the sleeve because that is the way they did it back in the early days. So for these struts, they copied that same setup. Koni told us that originally it was done that way as some coil over kits would not work with the diameter of the shaft, and they therefore chose the sleeve design so it could be optional if necessary for custom setups/coil overs/etc. (Koni always tries to think of racers as well as enthusiasts whenever possible). When the image
  3. John, let us know when you're back, and we'll go from there for Gland Nut measurements, and/or getting them back here. As far as the ones you used, as long as the ID of the inner opening that seats down on the strut matches extremely close to the top of the KONI, we would assume you'd be ok, but there may be factors we're not thinking of. If there is any movement at all, the damage could grow over time. We'll figure it out.
  4. Sorry you’ve had trouble. One manufacturer’s Strut Cartridges should not be used with another manufacturer’s Gland Nuts, so let’s see what we can figure out. Which Gland Nut you used there doesn’t necessarily matter to what we’re trying to figure out here, but to cover all the bases, the one shown in your video is not an original Nissan 280Z Gland Nut. The original nuts had seals to keep the oil fill inside the shaft where the plunger rod was, and it would not fit down properly on top of the strut cartridge body (I was curious to see if we had an original Gland Nut here, and found one, so
  5. That is the one from Thailand I was referring to in my email discussion with you. Unfortunately he doesn't sell wholesale or bulk. We hope to have some additional options (much less expensive than the actual reproduction version we currently sell) available soon.
  6. No product failure is ever welcomed, and we will certainly be talking to the manufacturer about this one, and continue to monitor them. We're of course very sorry that both of your products had obvious issues. We have sold over 180 of them since 2016, and these are the first two alerts we know of concerning this issue (possibly 3 assuming the one from Hybrid was the same manufacturer, which is hard to tell for sure, since there have been a few similar options on Ebay over the past couple of years, some of which are no longer around). Hopefully it is not more than 2-3 out of 180 and not indicat
  7. Thanks Zed, always appreciate you looping us in. Lee already knew, as Koni has been conversing with this customer directly this week. Lee himself will be in soon with a direct response. James is on a leave of absence, which is why there haven't been any responses from him for a while. Thanks again!
  8. Hi!  I am need of a performance strut for my 1977280Z. I was referred to you by EuroDat ClassicZcar site please respond with ANY help you can in finding new or good used units with my application. Thanks!!!

    Doug Parker. dbparker54@yahoo.com

  9. Lee from KONI has been made aware of these things. He is getting caught up (I'll never complain about my flooded inbox again, since he said his had around a thousand messages, sheesh!) and will be coming in soon for the following: 1. He has a simple something-or-other for those who for some reason need a longer adjuster knob. As far as we know, for the many hundreds that have sold so far, only two Z-Cars have had the issue of not being able to reach with the knob for some reason. We honestly don't know why at this time, but hope to research it and find out. Lee was gathering the informati
  10. Man, Koni has a lot of events! Lee had to go back on the road to another one before he could finish catching up on all requests and so forth. I believe he gets back mid next week, but I gave the impression here that he was back and soon to be jumping in, which was inaccurate. My fault, sorry for the confusion.
  11. Definitely not 4mm in my image. Just made that to be clear and confirm to everybody what the measurement was supposed to be measured from and to. I think Lee may be back but I'm sure is trying to unbury himself. I hope to get some confirmation before the end of the day (I'll try anyway).
  12. Sorry if whom you spoke to sounded as you describe. We're all a bit hair-on-fire trying to keep up with short staff, but that isn't an excuse. 1. Please private message me about who you spoke to here. 2. Before I (and/or Lee) respond to the rest, I need to confirm that the image you included is torqued down; and using the diagram I included below, you're saying on that strut the same gap is 6mm? It is hard (for me anyway) to tell from your image. 3. Well over 90% of the 240Z's, including many 70-71's, have been within the 4mm gap tolerance with the original gland nut. So far, of the v
  13. Sorry folks, you may have seen the note we put up in our store, this Covid thing has forced a couple more guys to step down to take care of family, including James temporarily, and we were already short on warm bodies, so we've been a bit overwhelmed, but still standing and swinging. We have a couple of new guys starting soon, both of them Z owners, so if we've missed any of your emails or messages know we're working hard to get caught up. I was able to check in with Lee between his recent business trips. He is traveling (again), and having log-in issues, but I mentioned the Stainless iss
  14. Hopefully that takes care of it, just make sure that when you torque them down, there is a 4mm or smaller gap between the housing top and under the gland nut flange. If anything doesn't seem right, just contact us directly. Thanks!
  15. Hello @fyrst.z, like Zed said, the gland nuts definitely are specific to the struts, and you should use the Koni gland nuts. If you have one side of the front that threads and the other side that doesn't, that definitely could be, also as Zed said, decades of dirt and oil that create a "spacer" down there, so check that as well. The only other options would be non-matching strut cartridge heights, which will be fairly easy to check, or damaged/modified/mismatching strut housings. Struts, whether Tokico, KYB, Koni, are different heights, and they all have different gland nuts to go with them. Y
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