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Joseph@TheZStore

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Joseph@TheZStore last won the day on April 29 2016

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About Joseph@TheZStore

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  1. Joseph@TheZStore

    KONI Sports for Classic Z's

    Sorry for the slow reply. As far as these being genuine Koni creations, I can say that about a year ago, Greg started digging through all our suspension parts to find proper strut housings and so forth to ship off to them for the engineers. A year and lots of work later, these are the result, and they were 100% designed and created by Koni to their Sport Yellow spec of struts. Here is the official Koni release: http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/. Don't be surprised if Lee from Koni himself jumps in here at some point. Koni has been absolutely awesome through this process, I think we're all lucky to have Koni wanting to invest in Classic Z's. As far as the bump stops, by "proper" they basically meant having properly designed and undamaged units, trimmed if needed based on spring height. These units do not come with bump stops. The factory rubber ones are acceptable, and our urethane ones might be the best bet for progressive "bottoming", in addition to the fact that they fit the shaft sleeve diameter perfectly. As far as the Koni "Silastic" Foam Rubber (i.e. Silicone) bump stops, they look like a great progressive option as well. They are not model specific, and may not fit as snugly as our urethane ones (we're going to get some and try, and let you know), but we're looking into offering those as well. Assuming the Amazon seller has the right part pictured, you can see one of those ($26.56 each? Ouch!) here: https://www.amazon.com/Koni-70-34-54-000-0-Bump-Stop/dp/B001G99RKS. As far as the hardware shown above, the top left is the shaft sleeve. The sleeve fit is perfect. I'll try to find a spring seat if possible and show some of it fit together. Below that in the image of course is the top locking nut. On the bottom left of the image is the I-realize-now-I-should-have-exposed-that-in-the-image-better Gland Nut. I'm looking for inexpensive options for tools so you don't have to use a pipe wrench. Will advise. On the top right of the hardware shown is of course the adjuster knob. Since you get one with each strut, you can loose three of them and still be ok... 😁 On the bottom right is their "washer" to go on top of the Gland Nut. It is designed with channels and waves, the purpose being an added layer of protection for the seal underneath, as it will direct away any air pressure when bottoming, or road junk that bounces up there, so it doesn't end up crammed on top of the seal. We'll work on a digital version of their instruction sheet, but they are a bit generic and have nothing special I can see beyond standard info. Other than the placement of the disc and the Z-specific sleeve (which aren't shown on there anyway), there isn't anything that would surprise anyone who has gone through cartridge install before. They do however have a diagram showing you how to place the adjuster knob in your glovebox... 🤨 I'll check with Hector on Illumina's. It won't surprise me if he has experience with them and can offer some comparisons. Stay tuned. You may have seen it on our website already, but here is a quick illustration of the adjustment: https://youtu.be/HM83qhwRB30 James will be following up if we missed anything. Thanks for the interest!
  2. Joseph@TheZStore

    KONI Sports for Classic Z's

    As rcb280z posted (thank you), yes. Hector Cademartori was the test driver that worked with the KONI engineer on the struts. He has been at Daytona for the races the past week or so, and will soon be picking up where he left off on his report, and filling us in on the rest. When he finishes part two, it will be added here: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04a For those not familiar with Hector, or who weren't signed up for the recent Z-Mail, Hector knows what he is talking about. Here is his very cool racing Z "Ferratsun" 🙂
  3. Joseph@TheZStore

    KONI Sports for Classic Z's

    Motorsport has joined forces with KONI to create an exciting new product, one of the most requested upgrades for early Z-Cars we've had, to replace (and improve upon) the departed Tokico HP & Illumina Adjustable Struts. Completely new, constructed specifically for 70-83 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, & 280ZX, these externally-rebound-adjustable, twin-tube low pressure gas-charged KONI Sport (Yellow) Struts are designed for use on both stock & modified street cars, as well as autocross & track day cars. Built to give a good balance of street ride quality and handling at the softer end of the adjustment range, the KONI Sports can easily be tuned up to nearly double the rebound damping force for more aggressive control needs: simply open the hood or rear hatch and turn the KONI adjuster knob. Not only can you tailor the struts to your local road conditions (and to your taste), you can also quickly and easily change the settings for a blast at a weekend autocross or mountain run, then easily re-set them for a relaxed ride home. Whatever suspension behavior you need is literally at your fingertips. Also, if you race on different tracks and race conditions, the adjustable damping gives you an edge in setting up your car specifically for any track or autocross course. Koni believes they will work great with Eibach Springs, and will be fine with even lower springs, as long as a proper bump stop is utilized. Let us know if you have any questions, James@TheZStore & I will get you an answer. The first shipment, for 70-8/74 240Z & Early 260Z, is expected to arrive in the U.S. this March. We expect to receive the 9/74-78 Late 260Z & 280Z Struts 3-4 weeks later, and then the 79-83 280ZX Struts/Spring Seats 3-4 weeks after that. To reserve your set from the first shipment, the Pre-Sale is on now at https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04
  4. Joseph@TheZStore

    KONI Sports for Classic Z's

    Motorsport has joined forces with KONI to create an exciting new product, one of the most requested upgrades for early Z-Cars we've had, to replace (and improve upon) the long-departed Tokico HP & Illumina Adjustable Struts. Completely new, constructed specifically for 70-83 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, & 280ZX, these externally-rebound-adjustable, twin-tube low pressure gas-charged KONI Sport (Yellow) Struts are designed for use on both stock & modified street cars, as well as autocross & track day cars. Built to give a good balance of street ride quality and handling at the softer end of the adjustment range, the KONI Sports can easily be tuned up to nearly double the rebound damping force for more aggressive control needs: simply open the hood or rear hatch and turn the KONI adjuster knob. Not only can you tailor the struts to your local road conditions (and to your taste), you can also quickly and easily change the settings for a blast at a weekend autocross or mountain run, then easily re-set them for a relaxed ride home. Whatever suspension behavior you need is literally at your fingertips. Also, if you race on different tracks and race conditions, the adjustable damping gives you an edge in setting up your car specifically for any track or autocross course. Koni believes they will work great with Eibach Springs, and will be fine with even lower springs, as long as a proper bump stop is used. Let us know if you have any questions, James@TheZStore & I will get you an answer. The first shipment, for 70-8/74 240Z & Early 260Z, is expected to arrive in the U.S. this March. We expect to receive the 9/74-78 Late 260Z & 280Z Struts 3-4 weeks later, and then the 79-83 280ZX Struts/Spring Seats 3-4 weeks after that. To reserve your set from the first shipment, the Pre-Sale is on now at https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04
  5. Joseph@TheZStore

    KONI Sports for Classic Z's

    Motorsport has joined forces with KONI to create an exciting new product, one of the most requested upgrades for early Z-Cars we've had, to replace (and improve upon) the departed Tokico HP & Illumina Adjustable Struts. Completely new, constructed specifically for 70-83 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, & 280ZX, these externally-rebound-adjustable, twin-tube low pressure gas-charged KONI Sport (Yellow) Struts are designed for use on both stock & modified street cars, as well as autocross & track day cars. Built to give a good balance of street ride quality and handling at the softer end of the adjustment range, the KONI Sports can easily be tuned up to nearly double the rebound damping force for more aggressive control needs: simply open the hood or rear hatch and turn the KONI adjuster knob. Not only can you tailor the struts to your local road conditions (and to your taste), you can also quickly and easily change the settings for a blast at a weekend autocross or mountain run, then easily re-set them for a relaxed ride home. Whatever suspension behavior you need is literally at your fingertips. Also, if you race on different tracks and race conditions, the adjustable damping gives you an edge in setting up your car specifically for any track or autocross course. Koni believes they will work great with Eibach Springs, and will be fine with even lower springs, as long as a proper bump stop is used. Let us know if you have any questions, James@TheZStore & I will get you an answer. The first shipment, for 70-8/74 240Z & Early 260Z, is expected to arrive in the U.S. this March. We expect to receive the 9/74-78 Late 260Z & 280Z Struts 3-4 weeks later, and then the 79-83 280ZX Struts/Spring Seats 3-4 weeks after that. To reserve your set from the first shipment, the Pre-Sale is on now at https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04
  6. Joseph@TheZStore

    ive had enough

    We are sorry you have had an issue with our header, and would like to refund you the price of the header for your troubles. Please contact James@TheZStore either here in the forum or by phone (800-633-6331) or email (james@motorsportauto.com) so we can pull up your information and process the refund or store credit, whichever you choose. Since we’ve literally sold thousands of this model header, we would like to get as much information about how it arrived to you as possible, to give to the manufacturer. If you have any other pictures with the straight edge (the one online was difficult to see clearly), we would like to show that to them along with the other images. If you measured the gap that image was trying to represent in any spot, please note that as well. To add to the information we give them, please let James know the approximate pattern you used for both the initial torque and re-torque, as well as what torque specification you used. The manufacturer also cares about this and wants to review all the facts to see what happened. If our representative assumed that you installed it incorrectly, again we apologize for that. While we believe you that you did install and torque properly, unfortunately we have had cases where headers were not installed properly (like torquing from the outside in, or not re-torquing hot at 200 miles, or using worn out studs), and a similar leak resulted. To be clear on “checking it” when it arrives, that means for shipping damage and the like, which unfortunately does happen from time to time, and would have the potential of bending pipes and flanges. Some of the shipping damages we’ve seen over the years are hard to comprehend, wondering if they stacked refrigerators on top of the box or something! Thanks again for communicating. James will follow up with any other questions or concerns from anybody in this thread.
  7. Joseph@TheZStore

    ive had enough

    Our apologies for the slow response. James is off this week on a well-earned vacation, and I’m detached as usual, off trying to build and fix computer systems and such (which is why James is normally your first point of contact). Sorry about that. Certainly, if what you said is accurately what our representative told you, that was completely incorrect, and we apologize for that response. You have every right to be upset. We will review with that individual specifically what needs to be corrected. If a Header is out of tolerance, we will always do everything we can to help fix the situation. Since you mentioned mileage, the only place mileage comes into play is that the Header must be re-torqued at 200 miles, and that must be done while HOT. If you followed correct installation procedures on your Header, and the tolerance when measured is greater than 1/8 inch, we hope you give us an opportunity to rectify the situation. Just let us know. Even if something wasn’t done exactly as listed below in the installation, we still want to work with you to take care of it. Just reply here and I'll see it (had to edit this post as our Sales Manager will be on a project out of the office and didn't want you to call and him not be here for you. But I'm always here (lol)). You can also call me if you prefer at (800)633-6331. James will be back next week as well. I’m also going to look at a few more headers tomorrow just to confirm I don’t see any inconsistencies, but wanted to reach out to you without further delay. (Wednesday Update: Didn't find anything out of tolerance in what we currently have, so if there is a tolerance issue with yours, hopefully it was isolated) Joseph. The information which follows is written to all forum readers: When Header flanges are welded up, there is always going to be a degree of variance (flex) in the flange. This would only be avoidable by leaving each unit in the jig for 24 hours, which would likely double the cost of the Header. The tolerance that is acceptable, when measured with a straight edge from the center of the flange outward on either end (NOT held at one end and measured at the other), is 1/8 inch. See the attached images we took of a Header we had in stock with the proper use of the straight edge. If anybody reading this has a Motorsport Auto Header that is beyond this 1/8 inch tolerance, please contact us. Within that 1/8 inch tolerance, the proper torquing by pattern will rectify the flange variance with 100% certainty. The torque pattern is always from the center to the edges, in proper steps. When the Header is at 1/8 inch or lower tolerance, and the Header is torqued in this way, and then re-torqued after 200 miles when HOT, you should never have a leaking issue. Our flanges were redesigned over a decade ago and made significantly thicker (to the same height as the intake manifold), so the “shared” stud positions (those which utilize spacers) line up equally for proper torque on both the Header and the Intake Manifold. In addition, the thicker flange better resists flex while welding, as well as the effects of old studs and nuts, or improper installation/torquing procedures. Now most of you on this forum know the proper installation procedures for a Header, so please don’t be insulted that we are adding a basic version here for reference. Many will read this post just from a search engine link, so it needs to be included. 1. The Cylinder head must first be completely cleaned of all gasket or other materials. 2. The Cylinder head must then be checked to make sure it is straight. If it is not, two gaskets, and possibly sealant, will be necessary. 3. The Header flange should be confirmed to be in tolerance (this should always be the case, as they are checked at the manufacturer, but unfortunately odd things can happen during shipping). 4. The condition of all studs and nuts should be checked. We recommend replacing current studs and nuts with new ones, as older studs and nuts are much more likely to lose torque over time, resulting in leaks. 5. The included Header Gasket should be checked for shipping damage, and then installed on the studs. 6. The intake manifold and Header should be installed, with spacers where needed, and the nuts finger tightened. 7. Starting from the center bolt and working outward, while alternating in both directions, the nuts should be slowly tightened, in multiple torque steps, until all are at torque specifications for your Z. 8. When all else is back together, including your exhaust system, start the vehicle and check for any issues. 9. After driving the vehicle for 200 miles, re-torque the Header, following the same pattern, while the engine is still HOT. 10. It is a good idea to re-torque these, and all bolts on your Z’s engine, periodically. The only time we may recommend two gaskets is if there are inconsistencies in the Cylinder Head, or if because of improper installation or torquing and re-torquing the Header flange is beyond the 1/8 inch tolerance. The two gasket solution is industry standard for those situations. If the header arrived to you beyond tolerance, we won’t ask you to “fix it” by using two gaskets. Also, since it was mentioned in the post, we recommend against “resurfacing” of any header flange, since then you would have variances in the thickness along the flange, which not only can affect spacer torque, but can itself end up causing leaks after high temperature metal flex.
  8. Joseph@TheZStore

    Front injector bank not firing (1976 280Z)

    Ok, my misunderstanding then. Seemed like you were asking, so I asked Greg on your behalf about selling the cores you had. Don't mistake the silly parts of my post, I'm just a bit goofy, and it spills out sometimes. I don't think there is any way to be happy about the way things are in regards to rebuilding electronic items that aren't available new any longer. That would require a large supply of ECU's to rebuild without concern about getting the cores back. We tried for years with much lower core charges, and unfortunately it didn't work, nobody ever sent them back. Hopefully the quality of our Rebuilder's work, the fact that we do have some rebuildable cores available that other companies do not (because of the core charge), and the fact that we can rebuild customer cores directly are helpful to some. Do know that Greg and I do appreciate very much that you copy things like this to us, even if we can't always come up with an option that works the best for all. You're pretty awesome. Thank you.
  9. Joseph@TheZStore

    Front injector bank not firing (1976 280Z)

    Greg's response: "Whaddya got?" Just let James or I know what ECU or AFM cores you may have (by model number on the core itself). Obviously they would have to be complete, including the cap on the AFM. To get cashed, the cores can't be bashed, smashed, mashed, gashed, crashed, or flashed. And if any of you tinkered with it and changed something inside, we have ways of making you talk.
  10. Joseph@TheZStore

    Front injector bank not firing (1976 280Z)

    Granted. Some may remember that Sal gradually started moving core prices higher (a very long time ago) since we weren't getting any back at all (and we never had them as low as $11). Basically he raised them a little, and still didn't get them back, raised them a bit more, and finally arrived at where they are now when they hit a point that we actually did receive a fair number of them back (surprisingly STILL not all of them). That is how he arrived at the core charges of today. "Make the sale now and don't worry about the future" economics definitely would agree with $11 core charges, but with an ever-shrinking supply of a specific part with almost no chance of a new reproduction, Sal and Greg decided not to mortgage the future to sell more. It certainly could be an endless discussion where that balance should be, and was debated at Motorsport, and continues to be considered and reconsidered by Greg. There are strong points on more than two sides of the issue. As far as finding cores, we do. We have a guy that does nothing but scour junkyards for such things. Hopefully there is such a person in every area doing the same, as a crushed Z with good parts is truly such a waste. And if somebody had a supply of good ECU cores (i.e. not taken apart and changed/modified/etc.), I know Greg may have interest in those, absolutely. Perhaps even AFM's or AMS's, I'll have to get with Greg later in the week (when he is less overwhelmed) and inquire.
  11. Joseph@TheZStore

    Front injector bank not firing (1976 280Z)

    Ladies and Gentlemen, Sorry for the slow responses, it was, once again, my screw up. When I set James up in this forum, I forgot to turn on email notification... Fixed... Again, James will follow up on this as needed. Of course some subjects also may require more than just a quick answer, like in this case. As was mentioned in this discussion already, we've also had mixed results with some Cardone products in the past. In the case of electronic items like ECU's and Air Flow Meters, we trust our local instrument company gurus, who we've used for over 20 years, to do it right. Not saying Cardone's rebuilds aren't good, they may be just fine. However, there are other thoughts to consider as well: Note that the only one they show available is supposedly for 75-76 AT, and 77-78 Federal, regardless of model number of the ECU. While it can be a subject for debate, according to Greg, our 20+ year rebuilders, and lots of experiences, this is simply not correct. There are multiple model numbers within those applications, and most shouldn't be mixed. Some numbers can be interchanged, and our rebuilders determined that decades ago, but many within that application range should not be. While we do have a fair group of ECU cores that can be rebuilt ahead of time, with Motorsport you can also have your own unit rebuilt, which can be the best option when the car isn't needed as a daily driver. It is also better not to rebuild them, and then leave them sitting in a warehouse for years, so we don't have all the cores we have rebuilt ahead of time. If you do successfully conclude that your ECU is the problem and needs professional rebuilding, you can give us a call with your ECU model number, and we can check our core stock, or we can rebuild your specific ECU. That brings up another good point, the ECU, just like the Air Flow Meter, often gets blamed for problems that it isn't causing, so the rebuild doesn't end up solving the issue. Between the factory service manual, qualified technicians, and the vast experience of many helpful Z enthusiasts like on this forum and in this discussion, you can test to confidence about what is causing your specific issue. Testing by replacement can get expensive and frustrating. Finally the significant core charge increase was a determination made between Greg, Sal, and some representative customers many years ago, as the best option for the Z-Community at large to continue to have them available as long as possible, since ECU's are not being made anymore. Without much incentive to send the unit back, then the available group of ECU's would continue to dwindle much faster, with units sitting on garage shelves instead of being available to another person. This likely explains why Cardone has no stock available for 75-76 Manual Transmission, or 77-78 California. Our guess is that many larger companies don't care much about that aspect, but Greg does, as our entire business is Z cars. In almost any possible case, the only thing that would cause an ECU to not be viable for rebuilding (and core refund) would be if it has been taken apart and damaged, or flooded. If that is suspected, we recommend sending your own core in for rebuilding, as there hasn't been much over the years that our rebuilders haven't been able to fix. Just message James with anything you need. He is always quick to help (well, when the "computer/internet guy" (yours truly) doesn't screw up the settings so he doesn't know about it...)
  12. Joseph@TheZStore

    parts pricing

    Lol, no need to be sorry, I was just embarrassed that I hadn't been on in so long, and felt the need to fess up. I would guess your estimation of the impellers is accurate, the stamped ones certainly would be cheaper to make. Greg's thoughts about them being lighter on the bearing and usually having more fin surface area were interesting thoughts though. That is why he is the 40+ year expert and I'm the computer guy who happens to own a 240Z. : ) Ahhh Tony. Love him or hate him, he remains the same. : ) To anybody interested, I also screwed up and read the wrong listing of the cost increase of the remaining Paraut pumps. Greg dropped the price from where I had it at $59.95 to $46.95, which is better than the discount I was going to offer any of you who ordered one anyway. What we have been told is there are no more coming, these three are it. We still hope to find them or an equivalent.
  13. Joseph@TheZStore

    parts pricing

    Hello folks. I was last on the site June 24th (hangs head in shame), and have had my head buried in our new Business Computer System migration, so didn't notice the callout right away, sorry about that. There will be follow up to come, and your contact on these forums, James@TheZStore will jump in (you can always ask him whatever you need, he'll take care of you). My nephew and I took that image back in 2008, lol. I honestly wasn't aware of the impeller debate, perhaps I should get out more. I think he asked me whether to take a picture of both sides, and I couldn't think of any reason to show the bottom... Tony D can knock me in the head for not knowing when he next sees me. : ) Obviously I've read both sides of the debate now, and see good points for each. Unfortunately the top brand out there, Paraut (cast impeller) has been discontinued. Our supplier did find likely the last three remaining new (that he can find anyway), and they are up at the store (the cost kicked the price a bit, but still less than Amazon, and I doubt they can get them any longer. Just use the link Zed Head has above). If any of you order one of those last three let me know here after you order it and I'll get you a break on the price (limited to the 3 we found). I am currently looking for another "premium" water pump to replace the Paraut. James will let you know what we find in Japan. We also switched to a better supplier on the regular water pumps (GMB at the moment), which are still good quality, just with stamped impellers, and were able to drop the price way down. Greg (the Z expert here) was familiar with the debate, and noted to me that they have good points as well, since the stamped impellers are lighter and less of a load on the bearing, and the fin surface area is usually larger than on the cast impellers, and move the same volume of water as the stock units. I'm sure the debate will rage on though. I think I'd be comfortable with either on my 71, which I'll probably need soon anyway. I might go with an electric one if I can save a few beans up. Guess I should get it running right and not burning oil first, lol. Thanks for your patience with slow responses and slow fixes, which is especially that way as we finish the mega-task of migrating our old Unix system to a whole new bright and shiny one. Hopefully the new store that is being redone at the same time will be worth the effort.
  14. Joseph@TheZStore

    21st Annual Motorsport Auto Z-Car Show

    Thanks to all from Greg & Your Motorsport Team! Image Galleries from the Big Show weekend & a few remaining Z-Bash/Abraham Memorial Shirts
  15. Joseph@TheZStore

    21st Annual Motorsport Auto Z-Car Show

    Thanks to all from Greg & Your Motorsport Team! Image Galleries from the Big Show weekend & a few remaining Z-Bash/Abraham Memorial Shirts
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