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Joseph@TheZStore

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About Joseph@TheZStore


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  • Member ID: 18729


  • Title: Supporting Vendor


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  • Joined: 07/28/2009


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Joseph@TheZStore last won the day on April 29 2016

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  1. Zed, as far as we're concerned, we always appreciate you looping us in. Thank you for doing so. We'll always try to come up with the best option as far as shipping and delayed items are concerned. With all the supplier issues it has been much more prevalent and difficult than usual these past two years. On more orders than people might think, where we've screwed up and had to reship something, we often end up losing money on those orders. It is part of doing business, but Greg is working hard, every day, to get parts here from literally all over the world to ship out, and we're working on making certain everybody knows all of their shipping options. Thanks again for alerting us. As a side note, James is unfortunately no longer with the company, I'll be asking Mike to remove that account to alleviate confusion.
  2. Sorry for taking so long to respond. There is no excuse for what you've reported, all we can offer is our apologies. Getting quality shipping staff has been a struggle for many years. Unfortunately, the pandemic has only made it worse. We're training a new person now, and hope such packing errors are a thing of the past. With millions of possible combinations of parts, training is a long term effort. None of this helps or excuses what we did to you of course, and what you've described should be simple common sense, but it is something we continue to work on. As far as the email contact, I can see the email that we did send on June 15th, in the (failed) attempt to let you know about the 2 items that we hadn't received. If you do ever choose to give us another chance in the future, when you don't see an order confirmation email in your inbox or spam folder, after you place your order, please let us know. As far as the older order you mentioned, your account we have now only goes back to 2020, so we assume we had you at a different address before, and duped your account by accident. If you're willing to help me find that order, please pm me. Sorry again for the inexcusable shipping problems, and thanks for all the orders you've made. Hopefully we'll get a shot to help you in the future.
  3. Sorry to respond so late, and muddy the current thread discussion. Things have been quite overwhelming here, we're trying to dig out. First of all, nice job on the Z so far, and it sounds great! Thank you for your patience with us. The email issues have affected many companies. Places like Yahoo flag a domain as spam, with no explanation, and no recourse. We did send you an email on October 13th (that obviously went to spam or disappeared into cyber-oblivion), that the intake and boot were delayed from the manufacturers, and that we would ship it all together when all items arrived. So our apologies as we should have followed up with you when we didn't see an email reply. Sorry about that. It is definitely something Greg is working on as we get new sales team members up to speed, and hopefully (soon) find a few more, so they aren't overwhelmed all day long. We have also recently been trying to call, in addition to sending emails, which can be tricky as many don't want to be bothered with phone calls. Unfortunately we're still waiting for the other items you ordered. Just call our sales team anytime for the latest we've heard from the manufacturers (side note: Your most recent order left yesterday, just in case you're not getting the tracking emails either. If you didn't, if you can help us out, please check your spam folder and let me know if our emails aren't in there). As far as successfully getting out of our old systems and into new ones where inventory can be shown, that has been the most difficult of all, a long story, and that one is on me. I will say that we have what we hope is a great new company working on things now, and are very hopeful that they can get it all figured out relatively soon. Thank you for all of your orders, kind words, and for having mercy on us.
  4. I can't speak for the Koni engineers (and I'm certainly not one, lol), but as best as we understand it: The strut insulator does not impact on the Koni sleeve either way it is installed. The insulator impacts on the strut bearing in the front (or the strut spacer in the rear), and they in turn impact on the top of the spring seat. The Koni sleeve sits slightly under the top of the bearing or spacer (otherwise it would grind when you make a turn), and is not impacted. The bump stops were originally bonded to the underside of the spring seat. If you bottom out, the bump stop takes the impact between the strut body (Gland nut) and the upper spring seat, the Koni sleeve is in-between and isn't impacted either way. As far as damage to the bump stop, that is an engineer question for sure, but it *seems* like the only time there is pressure on the bump stop is when it bottoms out, and then all the stress is between the top of the bump stop and the spring seat, and the bottom of the bump stop and the Gland nut. I'll try to get this discussion seen by those engineers to get their corrections/thoughts.
  5. You are exactly right, sorry about that, I had forgotten all about posting that previously. I blame 2020, lol... Koni made this setup with the sleeve because that is the way they did it back in the early days. So for these struts, they copied that same setup. Koni told us that originally it was done that way as some coil over kits would not work with the diameter of the shaft, and they therefore chose the sleeve design so it could be optional if necessary for custom setups/coil overs/etc. (Koni always tries to think of racers as well as enthusiasts whenever possible). When the image on the left was posted, we had queried Koni and they agreed that was a proper way to set it up, and will work fine that way. When our drafting-talented customer made the image on the right, we queried Koni again about it. They had the engineers (i.e. smart guys) go through it all again, and their final determination was that once the weight of the car is down on the setup, it matters not which direction the sleeve is placed, as it ends up functioning exactly the same while in actual use. So if you install/installed them with the "flange/ledge" at the bottom, all is well. If you install/installed them with the flange/ledge at the top, all is well. The smartest guys in the room determined that it makes no difference. I'm sure people will add their own thoughts, which is part of what forums are great for. In our own non-engineering minds, having it with the ledge at the bottom might hold the bump stop (at least our urethane bump stops, which we recommend with these struts) in a bit more favorable position. At the same time, having the ledge at the top might work better with different bump stops, and to be extremely non-technical, "looks" better and more natural to us, and might make initial installing slightly easier due to the pre-compression height of the parts while installing (possibly useful if you have stubby fingers like I have). But literally, direct from the Koni engineers, when it comes to how the strut assembly functions, the "ledge/flange" part of the sleeve is irrelevant as to position. Both are Koni engineer approved.
  6. John, let us know when you're back, and we'll go from there for Gland Nut measurements, and/or getting them back here. As far as the ones you used, as long as the ID of the inner opening that seats down on the strut matches extremely close to the top of the KONI, we would assume you'd be ok, but there may be factors we're not thinking of. If there is any movement at all, the damage could grow over time. We'll figure it out.
  7. Sorry you’ve had trouble. One manufacturer’s Strut Cartridges should not be used with another manufacturer’s Gland Nuts, so let’s see what we can figure out. Which Gland Nut you used there doesn’t necessarily matter to what we’re trying to figure out here, but to cover all the bases, the one shown in your video is not an original Nissan 280Z Gland Nut. The original nuts had seals to keep the oil fill inside the shaft where the plunger rod was, and it would not fit down properly on top of the strut cartridge body (I was curious to see if we had an original Gland Nut here, and found one, so included images in case others wanted to see them). When manufacturers started making physical strut cartridges to replace the original non-cartridge setup, they all included their own specific Gland Nuts, as they needed to match the shape of the top of the strut body. Just like with Koni, that Gland Nut is the exact inverse of the top of the strut body. Depending on what strut cartridge manufacturer made that Gland Nut, it may or may not be fitting well on top of the Koni strut body; which, if not, could allow strut cartridge movement and damage. The only way that a Gland Nut could slip when tightening would be if they somehow were incorrect nuts (difficult to imagine, but not completely impossible that some random Koni application has Gland Nuts that are nearly identical but just slightly smaller, and were mistakenly put in the box), or if the threads are damaged on one side or the other (which you said the threads weren’t), or there is damage to one part or the other (even stress/wear/cracks/stretching/damage to the strut housing tube itself). Also, in your video the top of the housing seems to be shiny clean as if machined somehow. It may not be relevant, but do you know what was done to the top of the housing tube there? As far as the Gland Nuts you received, if you are able to measure them for us, knowing the exact dimensions and thread pitch/details would help us try to figure it out. Otherwise we could also just get those back here from you and confirm if they are correct. Since the Koni Gland Nut is the exact proper fit for the Koni Strut, then we should see what can be solved so that you can use Gland Nuts that hold the Strut Cartridge in the proper position. Let us know. (the first two images are of an original Nissan Gland Nut (with seal), and the third is the underside of the Koni Gland Nut shaped to fit the top of the Koni cartridge exactly)
  8. That is the one from Thailand I was referring to in my email discussion with you. Unfortunately he doesn't sell wholesale or bulk. We hope to have some additional options (much less expensive than the actual reproduction version we currently sell) available soon.
  9. No product failure is ever welcomed, and we will certainly be talking to the manufacturer about this one, and continue to monitor them. We're of course very sorry that both of your products had obvious issues. We have sold over 180 of them since 2016, and these are the first two alerts we know of concerning this issue (possibly 3 assuming the one from Hybrid was the same manufacturer, which is hard to tell for sure, since there have been a few similar options on Ebay over the past couple of years, some of which are no longer around). Hopefully it is not more than 2-3 out of 180 and not indicative of a mass or new problem, we'll certainly look carefully at the next batch we receive. As far as we know the rest of the 180 that were installed are working fine to this day. If other members have had the same issue with this style, please let us know. Certainly Greg and this company have not stayed in business for over 40 years by ignoring reports like this, they are all taken seriously, and again, we'll make sure the manufacturer is aware of it. We do apologize, Madkaw, for the delays. Being severely short-handed for over a year now, Greg himself is having to take care of all the returns, along with a number of other missing staff positions, and we have been quite overwhelmed and behind. Sorry that it took extra time to get everything processed. We're working as hard as we can, and working hard to find more team members at the same time. We of course responded personally to zKars, and are processing his refund now. As a side note, unfortunately James has been on a leave of absence since mid last year, so if you have, or do, try to message him, unfortunately he won't see it. We're also hopeful that James might be able to return at some point.
  10. Thanks Zed, always appreciate you looping us in. Lee already knew, as Koni has been conversing with this customer directly this week. Lee himself will be in soon with a direct response. James is on a leave of absence, which is why there haven't been any responses from him for a while. Thanks again!
  11. Hi!  I am need of a performance strut for my 1977280Z. I was referred to you by EuroDat ClassicZcar site please respond with ANY help you can in finding new or good used units with my application. Thanks!!!

    Doug Parker. dbparker54@yahoo.com

  12. Lee from KONI has been made aware of these things. He is getting caught up (I'll never complain about my flooded inbox again, since he said his had around a thousand messages, sheesh!) and will be coming in soon for the following: 1. He has a simple something-or-other for those who for some reason need a longer adjuster knob. As far as we know, for the many hundreds that have sold so far, only two Z-Cars have had the issue of not being able to reach with the knob for some reason. We honestly don't know why at this time, but hope to research it and find out. Lee was gathering the information he had on his fix, and will share that soon. If anybody else has this issue, please let us know at (800)633-6331 or info@motorsportauto.com. 2. Lee and his engineers are looking at Madkaw's situation. Since that is miles above my pay grade, I'll leave that to Lee and his engineers, and look forward to what they have to say. He may have some other things to address, but those are the highlights. As far as what you said Madkaw, yes, we sent them O.E. 240Z, 280Z, and 280ZX strut housings, just to confirm everything. They already had the proper sizing from all the years they did the Reds, and this was just to confirm, which they did. As far as grinding the inside of the strut tubes, that was a misunderstanding on us. We should have been more clear that we've heard of many struts (and have some here in the building) where there is a hardened gunk buildup at the bottom from years of oil and such. That is often needed to be cleaned out, often by "grinding" with something to break off the gunk. However, grinding of the metal at the bottom of the inside is not something anybody should do and not what we intended to convey. Again, our apologies that we "muddied" that up, pun intended. Thank you for your patience on this Madkaw.
  13. Man, Koni has a lot of events! Lee had to go back on the road to another one before he could finish catching up on all requests and so forth. I believe he gets back mid next week, but I gave the impression here that he was back and soon to be jumping in, which was inaccurate. My fault, sorry for the confusion.
  14. Definitely not 4mm in my image. Just made that to be clear and confirm to everybody what the measurement was supposed to be measured from and to. I think Lee may be back but I'm sure is trying to unbury himself. I hope to get some confirmation before the end of the day (I'll try anyway).
  15. Sorry if whom you spoke to sounded as you describe. We're all a bit hair-on-fire trying to keep up with short staff, but that isn't an excuse. 1. Please private message me about who you spoke to here. 2. Before I (and/or Lee) respond to the rest, I need to confirm that the image you included is torqued down; and using the diagram I included below, you're saying on that strut the same gap is 6mm? It is hard (for me anyway) to tell from your image. 3. Well over 90% of the 240Z's, including many 70-71's, have been within the 4mm gap tolerance with the original gland nut. So far, of the very few single digit numbers of anomalies we've heard of, the modified KONI gland nut has brought the gap back into their prescribed tolerance of 4mm just fine. Yours would be the first to not be solved. 4. Please do not grind anything until I (and/or Lee) get back to you. Thank you for your patience.
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