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Everything posted by Av8ferg

  1. Thanks Bruce for the pics, I’ll take a look and see.
  2. I know this is going to sound crazy but I don’t mind the buzzer. I actually bought a replacement buzzer when rebuilding the dash Good reminder you left the key in the car. I looked tat the wiring diagram and it doesn’t show those two red w/ blue strip wires for the key anywhere. I know it’s for the buzzer because it’s the only connection left on the ignition assembly and the buzzer sounds when the key is in.
  3. I have an ignition switch/cylinder lock question. I bought a whole new in ignition assembly because mine is worn so bad the key practically falls out and it’s finicky. Hard to turn, hard to know what position the key is in, key goes in both ways etc.. The new one arrived and reading the forum is appears I have to cut a notch in two of the mounting screws to remove them. Secondly my old assembly has two wires coming out of a small black plastic piece right near the key. This is separate from the actually switch. I’m assuming this is what activates the buzzer to let you know the key is inserted. The new assembly just has a plastic piece there, no place to attach wires. Is this something I need to remove and then attach my old wires too? I didn’t want to pry that plastic piece off and break something. Anyone else down this job recently?
  4. Cliff, that’s crazy. You need to catch that monster and get it out of your garage!
  5. Found the steering wheel in a junkyard on a 240z. I acquired 2 on them that way and bought one for $165. This one in the pics was the worst condition one of the batch. It was really bad. I decided to attempt a refurbishment of this one as a test and it came out great so I didn’t bother with the other one. I donated the one I bought to a friend that has helped me out on this build. Will probably sell the last one I have. Here is what it looked like when I got it.
  6. Wrapping up the interior. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. It’s not perfect but it has come a long way. I wish I had great pics of the interior to show the before and after. The bottom line my car had no interior and no seats when I bought it. Everything is new or something I either bought or salvaged. The only interior pieces that I had were the plastic panels that go around the rear quarter windows. The headliner was also in good shape and required no work. There was no vinyl on the shock towers or wheel wells. I salvaged mine off a junked Z in a salvage yard. You can see in the before pics the interior was just bare metal. Still haven’t figured on the center console arm rest mechanism. I have all the parts (springs and wires ) just haven’t figured out how is works yet. I also need new sun visors, or to have mine refurbished.
  7. Thanks for all the advice guys. I will get a can of that stuff for the future. so I had a couple back up E12 modules so I just swapped one out. Cleaned the connections with contact cleaner and triple checked the connections. I also tested the temp sensors resistance to make sure it was in tolerance. 300 ohms at the sensor and 307 at the plug to the ECU when engine was hot. Thanks S30driver for that advice. Car is running now, let it heat up and took it for a spin. Stayed less than 1/2 mile from gloss at all times and put my kids electric skate board in the back incase I needed to get back. So far so, it’s shaken my confidence so it will be awhile before I hit the real roads. I like the idea of the GM HEI as a back up. Would be nice to mount that near the coil and have the wire coiled up and ready to go. ZedHead, what’s requited for that mod where I currently sit?
  8. Looking for some advice, Been working on the Z this week with success. Hazards, Radio installed, lights all working so I was pretty happy until yesterday. I hadn’t driven the car in a couple weeks as I was working on fixing the above items and general interior work. I decide to take to car for a short drive. Total distance was about 3-4 miles but never far from home. The car was driving great, the best I’ve noticed since I had got the timing perfect and the idle mixture set right, I got a timing light with RPM and advance capability. Did this over a month ago but haven’t really driven it any real long distance . So, I was driving and all of a sudden the engine began to shutter, it felt like it was cutting out I was at about 3800 rpm when I notice the power loss. A few moment later the engine total died. Pulled off into the grass in shame. Tired to start it and got nothing, Cranking just produced a fuel light cloud of vapor out the tailpipe. Sometimes it would hint of starting but nothing, would just crank. I pushed the car to the next neighborhood (sweating my arse off) along the 2 lane road by myself with a 35 mph speed limit and left the car there. Came back 45 mins later and tried starting the car and it started but ran really bad, very rough as it were misfiring. Exhaust was still very rich smelling. I went back home got a new ECU and my tools. By the time I got there (had kids to shuttle around first) it had been sitting about 90 mins. I put the replacement ECU in and it started right up. Began to drive it home, 2 mins into the drive it began to slight misfire again. Temp was not at the center position on the gauge yet. By the time I was in my driveway it was running really bad again and at operating temp. Barely made it into the garage.. I know the fuel pressure is good. Gauge in engine bay is stable around 35 psi. Car has a new coil, which I replaced 6 weeks ago and it’s run fine with that one previously. Took it at least 50 miles with that coil. So what could be the cause,? Obviously not the ECU because the problem came right back once the engine got hot. I checked the temp sensor on the head between cylinder 5 & 6 (yes ZX setup with P79 head), it was secure. I know this popping of will give you a rough runner. I’m leaning toward a problem with the ignition module. The E12 type on the side of the ZX distributor. It sits very close to the coolant hose and was very hot to the touch yesterday. Hasn’t been a problem in the past but it’s where my thoughts are focused. Cold the engine fires right up. I’ve read that there have been problems with these modules at time when they get hot. Anyone with any good ideas to begin my troubleshooting?
  9. The Chinese are a threat to the world in many ways. They are the leader in CO2 emissions, are an authoritarian government that keeps its foot on the neck of its people, steals intellectual property, undermines civil liberties and uses it power and influence to strong arm companies and governments. The least of our problems are the crappy stuff they make but I agree. Not sure why we (western democracies) do business with them. The only reason I can guess is that we value money more that our western values. It’s like feeding the neighbors dog steaks over the fence, when everyday it threatens to chew your face off. We deserve what we are getting !
  10. Cliff, when was the last time you rolled that queen out of the garage? Did you take it to the local ZCON festivities happening.
  11. Thanks Gents. It’s sure easy not to take your own advice, Hard to believe I use to run a 300 man maintenance department that maintained 20 jets for the USMC. We had smart guys working in there and I was very familiar with the jet. I could land, and tell them….you need to inspect and or replace the “blah blah valve” before they put any test equipment on the airplane. Like DutchCarGuy said. I would then say. go through the maint publication step-by-step before you replace anything. My policy was to verify every gripe before throwing a part at it. The difference is with my Z parts aren’t $90k. E.g: My reverse lights don’t work. The switch on the transmission is $16, instead of testing I’m wanting to just replace it. If I’m gonna jack this car up I want to do it once. Sounds lazy?
  12. Okay, so first rule of troubleshooting is to target the obvious first. Well I failed to do this and would classify myself as an idiot on this one. So the blue wire had no power because the fuse was blown. I just dismissed this because I had cleaned the fuse box and replaced all the fuse about one month ago. I made the wrong assumption the fuses were good, but after a friend told me to check the fuse it was in fact burned out. Radio is working. Ran the constant 12v power source from the cigarette lighter.
  13. Hazards fixed. I pulled all the connectors C8 and C7 and cleaned all the terminals with Deoxit D5, there was some green residue in some of those terminals. I put the harness back in and now the Hazards are working.
  14. I know this thread is 2 years old but it the best one I could find to discuss the radio wiring . I need a little help to get my radio properly installed. So I’m trying to marry up the proper wires on the harness with my modern radio. I don’t want to snip the stock 6 pin connector. I’d like to use the other side of the connector which already had a bunch on loose wires. I’m just trying to figure out what the colors mean so I can properly tie them into the radio. I know not all are required. There are 6 wires on the radio connector . (This isn’t the connector that went directly into the radio). This is the next one down the line. It’s circled in red in the wiring diagram attached pic. I’ve tested the blue wire which Captain Obvious stated was power with the ignition switch in ACC. I’m getting no voltage on this wire with the ignition in ACC. I’ve confirmed the Green/White is the illumination wire. When I turn on the lights I got 12v here. This wire won’t be required on the new radio I’m guessing because backlighting is not used on modern radios but now part of main power supply. I’ve figures out what we’re the stock wires to the one speaker. What I have left is a black wire…..this logically should be a common ground right? So what is the Red/Blue wire? In the schematic it seems to go to other lighting items like the horn relay and low fuel light etc. My guess to connecting my radio are as follows: - Harness Black to Radio Black (COMMON GROUND) - Harness Blue to Radio Red (SWITCHED IGNITION POWER) The route a dedicated wire that puts the Radio Yellow to the fuse box. (POWER FOR CLOCK, RADIO MEMORY SETTINGS) Not sure why I’m not getting voltage on the blue wire with the key in ACC. I guess I could start the car and see if It has power then. Thank for the help.
  15. Well, cleaned the other hazard switch I had and replaced the flasher and no change. Both switches and both flashers cause the exact same problem. Only the passenger side lights work. Highly Unlikely both switches have the same issue. Those turn lights on the driver’s work fine when I use the turn signals, so I know the circuit and bulbs are good. Haven’t got a chance to test the grounds on the bulbs in the tach.
  16. Okay, good ideas here. I think you’re correct about be hazard switch contact issue. I will pull that apart and inspect it and clean the contacts with some Deoxit D5. I’ll also test the continuity with the switch selected before plugging it back into the dash harness. I don’t think I have the bulbs in the wrong position behind the tach. My tach illumination bulbs work fine. They’re LED and I see them turn on when I turn on the headlights. Sidebar, you have to swap two wires in the harness receptacle to get those LED bulbs to work in the tac. Found that out doing some research. BTW, I have standard bulbs in the turn signal receptacle. Here the link to getting LEDs to work as back lights. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129101-tachometer-illumination-issue-solved/ I think you are both right. It has to be a ground connection. I’ll check it out when I get home.
  17. Thanks Steve, I’ll get in there and check on that common ground for these tach bulbs. I did try and put my multi-meter on the neg and pos sides of the bulb sockets and got nothing, I even tried put the neg lead on the chassis to get a solid ground. Did this with the flashers on. I got zero voltage. I’ll keep poking around. Hoping it’s a simple fix. That Amazon link you sent is for a three prong flasher, is that what you intended? Thanks again
  18. I have a mixed bag of bulbs. Front turn signals are incandescent, backs are LED. The hazard flasher is OEM. Turn single was on zcardepot for $6.99. Bulbs in tach for turn signal lights are incandescent. Was considering buying an EF-32RL flasher for hazards and for turn signals. No sure is I need you can use the same one in both locations? BTW, here is a pic of the inside of my hazard switch that didn’t work a bit crusty.
  19. Okay, I’ve been out of pocket for a few weeks. With a combination of work and getting COVID I’ve been MIA on the forum. Covid was a 10 day ordeal, had it last year as well. Was worse this time but was just a really bad cold. The worst part was my wife putting me in double quarantine in my own house. So, I’ve been working a bit on the Z but it’s been minimal. I had been working on a turn signal problem that I’ve mostly resolved. I had 3 problems I found when troubleshooting . 1. Corded contacts inside the combo switch. 2. Bad Flasher. 3. Two front turn bulbs that had burned out filament. So now the turn signals work normally but there are still some problems. One is I cannot hear an clicking when I select a turn in either direction and neither bulbs in the tach work. The bulbs are good, contacts are clean on the receptacles. I had been told that the hazard switch and it’s circuit effects the turn signals. So the Hazards didn’t work either. I discovered I had a bad switch and replaced it with another one I had in my parts bin. Now the Hazard lights only work on the passenger side of the car . I can also hear them clicking but the arrows in the tach gauge do not illuminate So I still don’t know what’ the problem could be. Bulbs are all replaced, including tach bulbs My next plan is to get a new hazard flasher and see if this helps. Does anyone have any idea how I should proceed? Thanks
  20. There are many forces at play right now and more complicated that the average Joe really understands. 1. The Pandemic - this was the catalyst not the cause of shortages, shortages lead to supply/ demand going out of balance and thus higher prices ensued . Federal free money (Covid stimulus checks) while necessary to keep some people afloat they forced out of work through the demand curve way outside the normal. It also upset the labor market. Some people decided not to work even when they could. 2. The Federal Reserve printing money since QE1 (circa - Nov 2008) which accelerated through QE4 expanding the Fed balance sheet has created a glut of cash in the economy and very low interest rates, this further disrupts the supply/demand balance. Cheap money encourages poor spending decisions. When a 5 yr loan is 1% people borrow more money and buy more crap. 3. Energy costs have soared. It began well before Putin attacked Ukraine. A couple things happened here. One when the economy began to turn back on demand for fuel outpaced production. Oil and gas companies were caught in a bullwhip effect. In June of 2020 there was a glut of crude oil that left them scrambling to find space to store oversupply. Crude tumbled to $9.12 a barrel in April 21. When the world economy started to turn back on suppliers had basically turned off the spigot. 4. New leadership - our new President enacted policies that make it challenging to explore oil and drill for oil and gas. He stopped renewing off shore drilling leases and exploring or drilling on Federal lands. Billions invested by oil companies in pipelines were scrapped and sit partially complete or dormant meaning fuel has to be trucked and brought in on rail. He had publicly stated in his campaign he would End All Fossil Fuels. The oil companies have decided it’s too risky to invest in further production so they aren’t producing as much and in an unfriendly environment can take consumers to the cleaners with low supply. 5. Putin steps in and kicked over the apple cart. With sanctions on Russian, oil and gas supply’s are further inhibited. Russia is rich in natural resources, fertilizer, minerals, lumber, grain. Ukraine was also. Now we have soaring prices on things like Nickel, copper etc. 6. Labor shortages - Again the pandemic caused a major disruption in America’s labor force, some have referred it as the “Great Resignation” in 2021 47 million Americans quit their jobs. Labor is way more expensive now and this directly impacts a companies bottom line. When China stops the lock downs and comes back online, we are really going to see energy prices soar. Hold on for a wild ride. Cliff, great story about the landlord. This is how it’s supposed to work. You raise prices too much people go somewhere else. This is how the free market is supposed to work BUT in our modern complex society we have serious barriers to entry now. Oil companies or chip manufacturers don’t have to worry so much about competition driving prices down because you just can’t build a chip factory overnight or a oil mining company, These companies have the market by the balls now. This is not how the market is supposed to work. What’s supposed to happen is competition is supposed to drive prices down but that can’t happen now in many markets. Trying not to to be political just trying to lay it all out there, because there is a complete lack of understanding out there..
  21. Spot on…I work for one of the worlds largest shipping companies. Individual customers get the worst rate while large supplies have negotiating power but right now it’s worse than I’ve ever seen. We continue to raise prices to meet labor costs (when Amazon went to $15/hr for a starting base line,unskilled worker) everyone had to compete to get or keep employees and those cost are passed on to you. We lost 100’s of people at one place when Amazon did this. Planes sat for hours because we were 600 people short at one location. Fuel cost are volatile. We spent around 9 billion in Jet Fuel a few years ago. God knows what we’ll spend this year. The company wants pilots to shutdown an engine as soon as we are safely able to on the ground. Every drop of gas that can be saved they try to save it. This is the new normal and can confidently say we aren’t going back. Buy it now !
  22. Stumbled on this video of a restoration and sale of a 280z in the UK. Pretty cool episode. In this they have a new 280z fender badge made from scratch out of metal. Seems cost prohibitive, I’d like to know what one of those badges cost, now that the company has a die made.
  23. Cool Pathfinder…..you NEVER see those anymore, I’ve spent a lot of time in junkyards there past few years and I haven’t seen one in there either. Nice little gem you have there.
  24. Checked my timing today with a new timing light that shows RPM. 10 deg at 800 RPM, 35 deg at 2500 RPM. Seems like my mechanical and vacuum advance are working are designed.
  25. In a previous post I mentioned I was concerned with low oil pressure. Even after buying a new sender it was still reading low. I took advice from a few of you and installed a gauge off the block to check my readings. First, the gauge and the adaptor recommended worked perfect. On start up the block gauge show 50 psi (cold engine, cold oil). At operating temp it was stable at 30 psi. Revving it goes up linearly with RPM. Saw as high at 65-70 psi. I’ve been working like a dog recently, operation baby formula has eating up plane cargo capacity so they’re not letting people drop trips. Once crisis after another. I haven’t been able to work on the car for a couple weeks now. Soon it’s going to hot and humid as hell out and without my AC up and running it’s going to make engine break in driving a little sweaty and not fun. Texas AC (windows down) doesn’t work enough and make the interior more prone to exhaust fumes too.. IMG_8909.MOV
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