Av8ferg

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Everything posted by Av8ferg

  1. Perfect, I was hoping he wasn’t like this guy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. You guys will be humming down the road and with my luck my engine will blow up 1/2 way there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yep! I’m in debt at ZCON for an undisclosed amount of beer though. I’m hoping he’s a lightweight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not yet, but I will before I move forward. I’ve been gone a lot for work lately. Dial Indicator on it way thanks to one of our favorite members CO who offered me one of his extras.
  5. P-series are Tri-metal bearings. They have a steel backing, copper middle and aluminum surface. They are capable of handling a higher RPM than the A-series and are better on performance engines I’ve read. The A series are all aluminum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Dave, I put the old sprocket on and spun the cam about a 1/2 turn to try and stop any of valves from protruding past the deck. Good idea with the sprocket but I could also check the timing position using the old sprocket and then once set put the new one on in the same hole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Head is finally in my garage and looks pretty good. $300 for all the work. Cleaned, replaced valve seat, and complete valve job. I just wish I had time to put this engine back together. Side notes. This is double confirmation that the OSK timing chain kit doesn’t have the V-notch on the sprocket. Was $68 on EBay. Nice kit IMHO. Rod bearings arrived too. I purchased tri-metal standard bearings made by Taiho $38. Tried to buy the Clevite 77 P- series but they are no longer available anywhere in STD sizes for Rods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Wow 32 yrs like a prison sentence. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks Cliff....it was a honor to serve but don’t what to go back! 24 yrs was enough. I’m enjoying my new found freedom being a civilian. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The block was only tanked and bores honed. I’m going to buy a dial indicator tomorrow and if its within tolerance then I won’t pull it apart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks. I am using the L28 rebuild book. I guess it’s better to be safe than sorry. I’m going to double back, check my work, pull it back off and try and get some measurements off this thrust bearing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Well, I did that already. The block came back with the caps on. I reviewed my disassembly photos and noticed the arrows were the wrong way so fixed that when installed the bearings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I’m was prying pretty hard, it wasn’t going to move, the big screwdriver was bending. I guess I’ll pull it all apart and try and shave those flanges a tad. Book says to measure them prior and then lightly sand. Thanks for the advice guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Here’s what the books says, but I need someone who’s done this before to tell if I need to pull this apart and do it again. Says to sand the thrust bearing edges with 320 sandpaper to get the clearance. Should be .002 but not more than .007. The crank won’t move laterally (float) at all when pry it as instructed using a long flat screwdriver. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Dave, I did not use plastigage because the journals measured almost perfect (well inside tolerances). i was there when he measured the journals and his comment was how surprised he was that there were exactly what the books specified and all nearly identical. He said that he doesn't see that often on domestic motors he works. This wasn't the first time he commented on the high quality of the motor vs what he normally sees. Also, I bought standard size OEM Nissan bearings, not aftermarket. I used Lucas Semi-synthetic high performance assembly lube. This stuff is pretty tacky. Its a bit messy, and leaves a long stringy mess, like snot but very slick.
  16. Gents, So I thought I’d start a new thread on this since I’m now on the reassembly phase. I’ve had a few issues with the crank install albeit all self-induced. I’ve posted a video on the crankshaft install and my concerns and questions. Concerns: -How much free spin force is normal? -The shop has the caps in 180 out but in right location when I got the engine block back. -Did I damage a bearing when we accidentally torqued caps to 58 ft lbs? -Book says torque to 33-40 ft lbs, I set 36lbs. -Thrust bearing clearance, could not determine. Video capture all these concerns Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Okay, hopefully I won’t have to redo the job but if I do I know what I’ll use next time. Dave, I’ll run this engine on a stand like you did and fully test it while the car is getting paint and body work. If she leaks, I’ll know before install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Okay, thanks Cliff. They went in pretty tight and I lined the slots with Ultra Black Gasket Maker prior. Didn’t know they were imbedded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Question, I ordered my rear main seal from Zcardepot and it came with The main seal and two side seals but not side pins. This is supposed to be an OEM Nissan part (came in Nissan bag). It doesn’t come with The metal side pins. Do I need these? I’ve already set the rear main cap with seal and side seals and RTV in the corners and notches where side seal go. Do I need to redo this and add those metal shims in there? https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-main-seal-kit-engine-oem-240z-260z-280z?_pos=2&_sid=5908879bd&_ss=r Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Thanks CO. I just noticed the site problem around the time you sent this. I’ll email them and see where it goes. Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I agree. Would have been far worse if it happened later while driving passing 5000 RPM. Now I wonder if I should change the rod bolts too. I know it’s not as easy as new bolts. I recall CO saying there needs to be something done to at the shop level to make the fitment correct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I had an “Oh Crap!” moment today installing the crankshaft. Was almost finished and torquing the main caps down. Followed the book exactly. While torquing cap #5 it happened. When the bolt goes from tight to loose all of a sudden. Yep, she broke. Torque wrench was set to 38 ft lbs. book says 33-40 ft lbs. I opted for something in the middle. Only good thing was there was enough threads sticking out after removing the cap that I was able to grab it with a vise grip and she came out easily. No tapping required. So, I’m at a work stoppage. I’ve lost confidence in the rest of the bolts so I’m ordering a new set. http://datnissparts.com/ld28-main-cap-bolts-set-of-14-for-datsun-l6-l24-l26-l28-240z-260z-280z-280zx-810-910-maxima-12293-v0700/ Planning on buying these. Yes, I confirmed the torque setting, wrench is new and high quality and I didn’t miss the break point inadvertently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Ready for assembly... Got bearings, main seals and new head bolts. Waiting on my rings and head gasket. Reading trough the “ How to modify your Datsun OHC engine” last night he states that you only need to worry about shimming cam towers and chain slack when the head has be shave .0030 or more from stock. So I’m thinking I should be good with my .0014. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I’ve been researching the idea of Filling these holes. JB Weld, Devon Aluminum Epoxy and another product called Alvin Hi-Temp. They’re all similar product. I think I’ll try the JB Weld. I don’t think it would be a problem even if I left it alone because they are so minor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Went to see how my head looked at the Machine Shop while dropping off the valve stem seals. Looks pretty good, all valve seats were redone and the one bad one replaced. Looks like he took another .009 off the head to get the surface to a place he thought was good. There is still some minor corrosion pits left but he thinks it will not be a problem and recommended this copper gasket spray to put on the gasket if I wanted better assurance of a perfect seal. Right now the head measures 4.241”. Stock I believe is 4.255” Here are the pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk