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Av8ferg

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Everything posted by Av8ferg

  1. Side bar…my fuel tank arrived yesterday. Looks good…it looks like it has a thick rubber coating on it. Clean inside, and it is guaranteed for life. Guy cut it in half, addressed any issues and removed all the rust and then welded it back, It was baked 3x during the process and then sealed on the outside. The exterior has paint streaks but I knew that going it. The material they use cannot be sprayed he said. As long as it trouble free I don’t care.
  2. Here’s a pic of the before and after of a guy that sent his to him. Different car but looks about as bad as mine.
  3. Persistence once again prevails. I’ve been searching for a heater valve replacement and it not been going well. My style valve is no longer obtainable and alternates have fitment concerns. But I found a guy in WI that rebuilds them. I’m sending him both the vacuum AC valve and heater valve where is will inspect and recondition. Price is reasonable considering the cost of replacements. $100 plus shipping and he has a 24 hr turnaround time. Here’s what mine look like right now. http://heatervalves.net/
  4. So I did some research on the interwebs last night and have come to a couple conclusions. - and aftermarket or OEM heater cores that were meant for the S30 are not available. - rebuilding an old one is cost prohibitive. My quote came in at $415 plus shipping. 🤮 -stock heater control valves….none available for the 280z. You can find 240Z and 280zx , not sure if they’re compatible or what you lose if you do use them. 240Z probably more compatible than the ZX due to mounting point. So here is some good news….the dimensions of the 280z heater core is 7”x 6.75”x 3”. There is ones for cars that are almost the same size, most are 2” thick. I found several and price ranges between $40 and $120 depending on brand and copper vs aluminum. Like Captain Obvious did, you’d have to make a 1” shelf for the core to sit on or it would be banging around in there on the Pot holes all over Philly 😂. Now the heater control valve. I think I found a possible candidate for replacement with the temp control feature as in the later 280z ( ones with copper wires). A 1971-1974 Jaguar Hester control is almost identical except the spring Cntrl is on the opposite side. See pics below. I’d like someone who is more familiar look at the photo of the Jaguar one and see what you think about compatibility. The vacuum section looks similar too for the other half but the mount I’d on the wrong side. It looks like Nissan may have copied the Jaguar one or vise versa. Also the Jaguars ones are available from several retailers. Thoughts?
  5. That’s a dangerous thought! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Here are some pics of my heater core. I’ve email two companies that rebuild them and sent them pictures to get a quote, the heater control valve is another story, anyone know what this copper wire that attached to it? I’m guess it’s some sort of sensor to send to the valve to open and close and it looks difficult to remove. What happens if just remove the valance all together, does that mean you get either full hot or no heat? I’m not sure if my valve is functioning, repairable or just trash? It looks pretty rough.
  7. That Is very kind of you and I’m happy to accept. Let me know what you want in return. I can pay you or give you some extra parts you might need. I’ve acquired quite a collection and won’t be using much of it. I have an extra freshly plated hood latch as well as a bin of freshly plated parts I won’t be using. They had a base rate so I threw in extra parts on my last plating order. Thanks again !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Cliff, everything is pretty much toast. Finally got the heater core out….it looks shot too. Now I have to find one and from the looks of it I won’t be a stock heater core. I saw the Captain Obvious used a alternative core from an Escort . I might have to do something like that. I’ll have to pick his brain. Pain….every time I cross one hurdle I get two more thrown at me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. My latest struggle…removing the the heater core OMG is this an PITA. Any words of wisdom? So far disassembly is a guessing game, just removing screws and trying to get access to this thing. I’m sure it won’t be easy to find a replacement either. Here’s where I’m at! The good news is my fuel tank restoration is complete. Should be here in a few days. Will report the how it came out for others needing this done once I get eyes on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Cliff, once again you saved me a bunch of time. I just ordered those bulbs for the gauges. So much work….so little time.
  11. With the dash out, I really can’t see where the leak is coming from. The more I take apart the more I fear I won’t be able to put in back because it could be weeks I before this dash goes back in. I guess now is the time to get new bulbs and clean up the gauges. Is the general consensus to go LED so you don’t need night vision goggles to read the gauges. I have like 5 simultaneous projects going on at the same time on this car….. not by choice. Anyone out there have a 77-78 volt/fuel guage laying around? Minnie looks pretty rough, and the display for the volts is rusted.
  12. Time Left: 23 days and 18 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I’m looking for a working 1977-1978 Fuel /Voltage guage. Mine functions but there is rust on the face of the volt guage and I’d like a nicer once for my car.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  13. View Advert 77-78 Fuel / Voltage Guage I’m looking for a working 1977-1978 Fuel /Voltage guage. Mine functions but there is rust on the face of the volt guage and I’d like a nicer once for my car. Advertiser Av8ferg Date 01/11/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z  
  14. Good idea. I got the dash out. Wasn’t that bad. As I began to take out the bolts it became apparent that someone has removed it before. Several screws missing was the tell tale sign. Now my that it’s out I’m sure I’ll find all sorts of goodies to fix. The accordion vent hoses all pretty mush disintegrated at the slightest movement. I’ll have to add those to the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I really didn’t want to do this yet but I might as well jump in and try and remove this dash. This problem will not fix itself and I cannot proceed with carpet and interior work until this is behind me. Everything with this car is two steps forward followed by one back. By the time I’m done I should have worked all the gremlins out of this car. Today’s mission was electrical. I have lots of stuff that doesn’t work. Some interior/dash lights, turn signals, ignition buzzer, reverse light, e-brake light and others. Fuses all look good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. That’s what I was worried about. Does the whole dash need to come out or can you get to it behind the center vent piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Okay, thank have another problem. When I pulled off the transmission tunnel vinyl off that I recently made I found a green liquid on the back side. I can only assume this is radiator fluid. Anyone that has seen behind the dash might be able to steer me to where to begin my investigation. You should be able to see the wet area in the second pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Got a day to work on the Z today. Trying to get the interior squared away…..long time coming. I’ve been putting in sound proofing. Also cut and fit the vinyl for wall behind seats. I like it! It’s not sitting flat yet because it isn’t glued yet. Side note, I went to my local grocery store yesterday and a S30 turned in right before me. I was like….what!!!! I followed the guy and we ending up having a 30 min conversation in the parking lot. He has a 77 280z and is the original owner. He’s also a pilot and been retire for some time. I then find out he lives in my same small town less that 3 miles away. He said he got a treasure trove of parts. 3 engines, transmissions…on and on. Here is a pic of his car I took yesterday. His name was Bernie Culp(said he’s been a a ZCON a few years back). ….nice guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Got a day to work on the Z today. Trying to get the interior squared away…..long time coming. I’ve been putting in sound proofing. Also cut and fit the vinyl for wall behind seats. I like it! It’s not sitting flat yet because it isn’t glued yet. Side note, I went to my local grocery store yesterday and a S30 turned in right before me. I was like….what!!!! I followed the guy and we ending up having a 30 min conversation in the parking lot. He has a 77 280z and is the original owner. He’s also a pilot and been retire for some time. I then find out he lives in my same small town less that 3 miles away. He said he got a treasure trove of parts. 3 engines, transmissions…on and on. Here is a pic of his car I took yesterday. His name was Bernie Culp(said he’s been a a ZCON a few years back). ….nice guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Jeff, you make a good point about the space you get under the raised deck. Lots of places to store, misc items and/or spare parts incase you break down on a trip. I am buying an amp too so it’s probably a good place to put it as well. I’ll continue to think about this and let you see the end results when I get it done. I should make a lot of progress on this interior this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Here is the cable I had to fix from a PO’s splices and snips that goes to the radio I wound each portion into separate bundles and wrapped them in a fabric wire wrap and labeled each bundle and connector. I did this so if I ever have to go back and fix a problem it will be easy to ID where in need to look. Shout out to wayne280z in the upper bleachers who created the color wiring diagram. This made it so much easier. What a great resource: Thanks Wayne. Picked up two other donor sections that connect C7 and C8 blocks to the center counsel (radio, hazard, defog, ash tray lights. Power antenna etc… here are pics of the bundles I got at the yard and the one I refurbished. Here is the radio I got too. It changes display colors to match the green lights in the dash.
  22. Thanks for this link Cliff. Your role as the forum librarian is unsurpassed. It looks like those 5.25” speakers on the kick panel shouldn’t interfere with my clutch foot. I also like the back 6x9 box he did. I think I’ll do this but it’s going to require the sloped deck delete. My interior is on a hold because I have to weld those 3 floor patches on the passenger side. Can’t take it to the welder until my fuel tank is back. On the tank $425 with a lifetime guarantee from the Renu place in Greensburg,PA. Guy totally knows these tanks and has done many Z cars So it won’t be back for about 10 days. FYI, I found a 77 tank at a yard yesterday, already removed. It’s not rusted much, outside is perfect. Anyone looking for a 77 tank, let me know this is a great candidate. In the meantime I’m doing electrical work which is why I started thinking about the stereo stuff. I want to get all the wires in place before I glue to rugs down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I bought the exact same speakers and installed them as well. I’m still deciding on how I’m going to run this stereo system. I like my music and have been spoiled in my wife’s car. That is the nicest stereo I’ve even heard in a car in my life. It’s amazing. So I bought a new head unit while on a trip to Phoenix (Kenwood Execelon) I’m not going for original on the stereo because I don’t have one and can’t get one for a reasonable price. I’m deciding on my speaker configuration. I have the sloped rear deck so it complicates things and I don’t want to cut into my nice door cards. MSA sells a front speaker kit that attaches to the kick panels. I’m worried it might interfere with my foot. I also don’t really want to put them in the tool compartments on the rear deck facing up. I’m really making eliminating my options. If I convert the rear deck to flat I can put speakers on the back near the lights. I know most guys on here want the stock stereo system but I can’t roll like that, i can’t drive a long distance and listen to one speaker like I’m in a tin can. I also want to be able to stream my Spotify music. It requires abandoning the 1977 configuration. You can shame me at ZCON.
  24. I loaded the I think what was called the Oregon Trail game on my Commodore 64 via cassette tape. Tape data transfer worked maybe 50% of the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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