Jeff Berk

If you've been following my thread on a FS5W71B with a slipping 3rd/4th, I've disassembled and found numerous worn parts that cannot be replaced. To quote zKars "Holy crap, those teeth are in bad shape. ..You are out of luck as to finding a replacement. Time to look for a new transmission I think. " I found a used transmission on Facebook/market 3 hours away: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/428839345022192/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner Is there anything I can do to check it out before I pay for it?

referring to the above photographs, the 3/4th fork pad thicknesses (top, center, bottom) are 4.11, 5.09, and 4.00mm. The center pad has a slight stepped appearance on one side. The 1/2 for pad thicknesses (top, center, bottom) are 4.55, 4.33, and 4.98mm I'm measuring the pad thickness as shown in the photograph.

The fork was tight on the shaft (roll pin intact). I've attached closeups of the 1/2 fork (marked "T") and 3/4 fork (marked "C") with measurements. I'm not sure if there is any path forward if the 3/4 fork needs to be replaced because it appears to be NLA. The measurements are widths. I'll send the thickness shortly. An additional question... The rebuilding kit only came with one set of needle bearings but the transmission has several of them. Should I purchase additional needle bearings and replace them all?

OK, I'm good with the nut issue and I just about have the whole thing taken apart. I could use an opinion on the condition of the 3rd/4th fork condition.

I might just do that. $60 for a nut seems a bit steep. If I still had access to the maker space machine shop I'd try and make some but they're closed until further notice due to C-19. I actually found some M27X1.5 staking nuts but nothing M27X1.0.

Can anyone suggest a source for main and counter shaft staked nuts, with RIGHT HAND threading? I must have one of the earlier FS5W71B's. If they are NLA, can I substitute something else?

https://www.yeggi.com/q/240z/ Good source for printer files. I've printed the plastic clip for retaining the chrome bezel on the door pull of Datsun 260Z and 280Z, 1974-78 and part of a cold air intake.

I've got several parts on my '74 thanks to my son's printer.

Thank you Mayolives! There are many tips in there that will help. I'm on hold waiting for a bearing puller/splitter to arrive. I'm also mounting three dowel rods on my work bench to sting components on in order so that I can put everything back in the proper sequence and direction. It was suggested that I engrave an F on components on the side facing the front. I might do that as well. I'm assuming roll pins should be replaced with new ones but snap rings are fine to reuse. Correct?

If you look at MT-16-2 below, there is a little play in the main shaft at the point where it's shown as being separated from the rest of the shaft. I'm assuming that's normal. I can see the bearings in the adaptor plate and it appears to be in good condition with no play in the shaft as I try and wiggle the shaft. Could the worn synchros be causing the slipping out of gear? I thought it would just be a problem getting into gear. It looks like I might be able to do the rebuild myself as long as I don't need a press. If it gets too rough, I have a local mechanic that has worked on these transmissions I can fall back on.

OK, I pulled off the front transmission case. Keep in mind that that I have not done this before so I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking for. What seems to jump right out is that the baulking rings seem to have some teeth chipped off. My problem, however, was that I'm slipping out of 3rd and 4th gear.

Thanks all, got it off. I'll take a stab at the front half of the transmission case tomorrow.

Zed... The dust shield has a small gap between it and the body of the transmission tail piece. I've tried prying with a screw driver and twisting with a pipe wrench. Before I get too aggressive, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll try and wiggle it with a dead blow hammer and prying. I'm assuming that the dust sleeve and seal need to be removed to pull off the tail end of the transmission. I'm sure it's a wide ratio based on it having two bolt tabs at its tail end and I don't see what looks like a reverse lockout mechanism. Jeff

I'm getting around to disassembling by 5-speed to search for the cause of the slipping out of 3rd and 4th and I'm already stuck. I removed the stopper guide pin, return spring plunger, return spring plug, and plunger. I need to remove the tail end of the transmission and removed the six bolts that pass through the adapter plate and now I'm stuck. Do I need to remove the dust cover sleeve (No. 11) and seal (No. 10) to pull the tail section off? If so, is the dust cover sleeve screwed on? After their removal, just hammer and twist left to pull the tail end, right?

I purchased a garage door high lift kit from DDM Garage Doors. https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php The installation wasn't too rough although if you've never had to install or adjust torsion springs before, it could get a little unnerving. You also will have to buy a jack shaft, wall mount opener or just learn to raise and lower the door by hand which is what I do. I had also looked into two post lifts but they have some issues like being a permanent installation by having to be bolted to the floor, requiring a thicker concrete floor than normally found in residential garages, and I feel safer with the car supported for long term storage by four posts, each with it's own lock. BTW: All the photographs appear to show clean garages and at least two really cool cars. I'm jealous.