Jeff Berk

I'd like to also kick the engineer in the nuts that had that diagram of the removal procedure sketched in the FSM. The one showing the pin being pulled out with two fingers. I ended up constructing a puller with the help of a local machine shop.

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/791366034733342 I would consider this but my wife is already is already trying to get me to part with my '74

Nice home for that little red Z!

Nevermind. I found an old post that shows green 0.50^2 mm = 40 amps black 1.25^2 mm = 80 amps

zKars. Thanks for the suggestions. If I do go with a breaker or new fuse design, any idea what amperage I would be needing for the green and black fusible links? Jeff

heyitsrama, thanks for the suggestion on the alternator wire. It was heavily burnt at the alternator connection.

I just realized as I was shopping around for a fusible link that 2.0^2 mm (gray) is much higher than what was originally in my 1974 260z (early production). According to theZstore, I should be using 1.25^2mm (black) and 0.5^2mm (green).

In trying to troubleshoot another electrical glitch, I noticed that one of my 2.0^2 mm fusible links had damaged insulation and the wire inside was corroded. Was this due to overheating? I had removed, cleaned, and coated the contacts last year. Should I consider replacing the fusible links with a pair of high amp fuses? If so, any suggestions on which model? There was a nice one on this forum a few years ago that would accept two fuses and had a volt and amp display for $30; but it's no longer available. Or should I just purchase a replacement link? Thanks Jeff

I'd likely replace the blanks with switches marked ejector seat, oil slick, warp drive, flux capacitor, etc.

Unfortunately, no. It's a 1973 plate but my car is a 1974 (January I think) so the date is wrong. I purchased it anyways since I could possibly use it as a front plate. I'm a bit confused why someone in 1973 would of got a D 260 Z plate since the 260Z wasn't made until 1974.

OK, now this is so close

Would using the turbo Z pump be strong enough to pump oil through both the internal oiler and spray arms? Is there a way to check how well it's working?

Sure it will ; )

Well I'm back to where I was last year. I got this message from my mechanic when I brought the car back in to have the valves adjusted: Jeff, For some reason your cam/head has an oiling problem. The same cam lobes that were destroyed on the first cam are bad on the new cam. I have a new cam and rocker arm set coming next week. This cam uses a different oiling system than the original cam. Followed by: The new cam will be internally oiled. You can use both the spray bar and internal oiling, the oil pump does not have the volume to do both. I think we should also replace the oil pump with a turboZ oil pump. I have not got the complete cost of the replacement parts yet. I will keep you posted. Any opinions on this? The mechanic specializes in Japan and British car restoration and races a 510 so he seems to know what he is doing.