Jeff Berk

Good luck!

Your pictures I'm sure has made many of us very happy about the condition of our cars. You might need to visit this site in the future: https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/datsun/

Here's what my transmission looked like after adding the access hole.

FYI... After practicing once on a junk transmission, I drilled an access hole so I could get a drift pin in there to drive out the wedge pin like ZKars said. I then tapped the hole I had made and threaded a bolt into it to seal it up. You just have to be very careful in locating where to drill on the outside. I'll add a photograph tomorrow. BTW I also tried to fabricate a small c-clamp to no avail.

Thanks for the pointers. I found several sets of instructions on the internet, each with their own variation on the techniques. I ordered a donner steering wheel off of e-bay and will try and source some wood for it from Woodcraft, a chain on this side of the Atlantic that specializes in wood crafting tools and has a great selection of interesting hardwoods. I'll likely create a steering wheel out of some scrap wood first so I don't make as many errors on the expensive wood.

I'd (and others I would think) love to see a writeup on how you made it. I can access a fairly complete woodshop with a CNC. A fairly detailed step by step done a few installments at a time would be great. I'd have to find a donner wheel first since I don't want to sacrifice my current wheel in case something goes wrong.

Amazing craftmanship! Any chance that you have pictures of the work in progress?

I also mounted a winch. In my case, I sometimes need to pull my car in and onto my 4-post lift. Pushing it up the lift ramps was too difficult so I attached a box hitch receiver at the other end of the lift. I have a small 12v winch that is welded to a hitch adapter. The winch can then be attached to the lift to pull my Z onto the lift. The winch can also attach to my Chevy Volt or my garden tractor with their box hitch receiver and run off their battery. I thought I was so original with my idea. I guess not.

Add to that "Spray each contact you check with DeoxIT or other contact cleaner". Be careful since the circuit is energized and you might need to have some spare fuses on hand.

I'm working on modifying my fuel delivery and need a reality check if anyone wants to comment. My current system has fuel going from no return to a return to try and control fuel pressure and prevent the fuel from becoming too hot while waiting in line between autocross runs. electric pump ==> mechanical pump (MP unable to keep up with the demand) ==> fuel pressure regulator (no return port) ==> "T" fitting ==> SU (4-screw) I was planning on switching to: electric pump ==> mechanical pump ==> fuel rail ==> SU carburetors front

Siteunseen: I had to do likewise, then installed the relays to prevent further damage to the switch since the flip method only works one time. I'm assuming Shawn's switch is providing power since he didn't mention anything about headlights or parking lights.

Your thoughts are correct; however, your wiring has undergone several iterations of tinkering. There is a potential that someone did a little rewiring. Or, you could be right that all the other bulbs burnt out. I'd like to see how far the power is getting first. How original are you trying to keep this car? I ask because you might consider replacing your bulbs with LEDs (which is not as easy as plug and play).

Hi again... I don't expect all your dash lights to be dead at the same time. Lets look at your dash lights for now. 1) Turn the lights on and check if there is power to the hot wire going to the variable resistor (a.k.a. dimmer switch) to the bottom left of the dash. The plug should be a three contact with only the top/bottom contacts used (http://www.vintageconnections.com/Content/images/products/66/1.jpg) This will tell you if power is getting this far. 2) If you have power, try jumpering the harness wires at this connection to bypass the resistor. If the lights come on, you likel

Part of the reason for owning a Z and subscribing to this site is to learn something now and then. Fel-Pro does a good job of explaining the concept and included an example for a Subaru where the head bolts had to be tightened in two steps, loosened in two steps, and then tightened in two to three steps in order to get to the "yield zone". https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/proper-installation-use-t-t-y-bolts.html

OK, I have to ask... What is the purpose of a bolt stretch gauge? Please don't say to measure the stretch of a bolt. A little background please on this cool-looking tool.