Jeff Berk

You might want to read this. Then after getting it to work, install a relay for your headlights. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/

But the hose with the 180 degree bend (or two 90's) goes on the top tank connector passenger side, through the grommeted hole and to the vapor expansion tank. If that is correct, I got the wrong diameter hose somehow.

So the hose goes from the the left side of the tank, across the two tail lights assemblies to the evap tank and not the port on the top right of the tank? (Hose #6 in the illustration? )

I'm confused about where a hose goes or if I got the wrong hose for my tank. The attached 3 pictures showing the hose, an illustration of the hoses (I think this is hose #5), and a photo of my tank with the connector circled. I think this is the right hose for this connector but the hose diameter is <1/2 inch and the tank port is maybe 5/8th inch. Where should this hose actually go? My car is a Jan' 74 260z.

I guess I wasn't clear. I'm not replacing the unit but I'm unsure which way to put the old one back in after dropping the fuel tank to coat it inside. I'll look for that set screw assuming that limits travel up. Worse comes to worse, if I put it in upside down, I should be able to flip it without having to remove the tank a second time.

Looking at this picture: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/fuel-tank-sending-unit-oem-240z-260z-70-74 Is this sending unit right side up? I took mine out when I removed the tank for cleaning/coating and cannot remember which way the unit goes. I need to learn to take more pictures when I take things apart. Jeff

I purchased my Z in NJ but live in OH. I was planning on driving the Z back to Ohio but was convinced to tow it. It turned out that the clutch was on it's last leg and it never would of made it. You cannot assume the seller knows of hidden issues. There are so many things that could be a problem. Get a truck/trailer or be prepared to have it towed 300 miles. Don't forget to call Hagerty to get it insured.

If you want to keep the same look as an original radio, you can look at Retrosound brand radios. I had holes already in my doors for speakers and a second set of speakers a PO installed in custom made wood enclosures in front of the shock towers in the rear. I removed them to modify them and was able to access the time capsule in one of the two tool compartments that was blocked from them. An old package of camel cigarettes.

This just popped up on my news feed from Jalopnik https://jalopnik.com/what-a-lifelong-z-mechanic-thinks-of-nissan-today-1830083808 It's nice to see that places are still out there that specializes in Z's. No bad there's no place like that in NE Ohio. Great discussion of the history of sports cars at Nissan.

I'll have to try some of that down-hill engine braking. With that low-restriction exhaust it'll sound great! From some paperwork I have dated 1986 (1 year after "restoration") the 260Z has a '78 280Z block with a 280Z fuel injected head that was installed at that time. From some other paperwork, the 280 engine was new. The paperwork says It was ported, milled (?) , "trick" valve job (?), the block was bored 20 over. There was something about the pistons in the paperwork but I cannot find that now. As you can tell by the question marks, I don't know what some of these upgrades are but I suspect they could impact compression. The car had 61,000 miles at that time and now has 75,000 so there shouldn't be much wear on the engine since then. I need to check the calibration of the gauge but that was a loaner gauge. I ordered one and will look into a way of checking it's calibration. Jeff

We had nice weather so I warmed up the Z and retested the compression. 1) 125 2) 125 3) 125 4)130 5)123 6) 128 I had warmed up the engine but by the time I got to doing the test it cooled down a bit.

Grannyknot: I did not have the SU's held open. Is that needed to minimize restriction to the intake valves? I'll keep that in mind for when I get a new compression tester. The engine likely has good compression because it is relatively low milage.

I double checked the "mouse trap" springs and all were good. I replaced the valve cover and tried to run a compression test using a gauge I borrowed from a parts store. Cyl 1 read 145 pounds. The gauge then stopped working at that point and would not hold a pressure on any subsequent tests including on cylinder 1 so I returned it and got another gauge from a different store. It read 90 psi on all cylinders including cylinder 1. I'm assuming it was a bad gauge so I'm holding off on a wet test until I can find another gauge and work out a way of testing a gauge against a tire pressure gauge.

I think I got this now. I watched a video that was very helpful: I found that using a socket wrench to rotate the engine (thanks to the video) seemed to work great after I realized I needed to take the car out of gear ; ) Thanks for the help guys.