Jeff Berk

I'm not sure if this is the ultimate source of the problem but following Kenward1000's suggestion, I think the problem was the connections on the fusible links. I cleaned them up and the Z's running again. Unfortunately, one of the solder joints on the gray link is loose. The wire is too dirty to re-solder so I was going to cut the blade connection off and install a new one. It looks like 0.33 inch (8.6 mm) wide which I haven't been able to locate. Any idea where I can find a suitable connector? Happy Turkey Day Everyone Jeff

I'm using Inkscape, an open source drawing program similar to Adobe Illustrator. The wires are grouped in layers by system (e.g. lighting, ignition) but I haven't figured out yet how to keep the layers separate when I export them to acrobat. wire drawing pg1.pdf I have tomorrow night and a couple days next weekend with nothing to do and I hope to have it 75% completed by then unless it's already been done by someone. The wires are colored according to the diagram's designation and I use a dashed colored line to designate the secondary wire color so LY would be a blue line with a yellow dash as an example.

I have some time on my hands so I've started coloring in a wiring diagram for a 260z. Before I sink too much time into this, has anyone come across a COLOR 260z wiring diagram?

Kenward1000... Thanks for the suggestion. I'm currently working on a G35 in my garage so when done, I'll push the Z inside and take a close look. I looked at the fusible link; however, not at the wiring harness...Jeff

The pins tested out correct as per the diagram. I jumpered the solenoid to the battery and the starter spun like a champ. I connected a multimeter to the wire that connects to the small connector on the solenoid and it showed no power when I turned the key. I'm assuming that the two red leads don't need to be connected for the starter to start because I didn't bother since they only works the steering lock. My next step, I assume, is to see if power is going to the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram so I'll start tracing.

Here's where I'm at now. 1) battery is charged and the battery post clamps are tight. 2) the ignition switch tested out fine except there was no continuity between the two red wires with the key inserted or in any position. Could this mean the ignition switch is shot? Is it repairable?

OK ZH, that's where I'll start! thanks Jeff

Addressing the above questions... It has sat for 2 weeks outside while I worked on another car. It cranked lively like there was not problem other than forgetting to pull the choke the first time. Then utter silence when I turned the key. I hooked up a charger and it indicated that the battery was at 75% and I hit the "start" button on the charger to give the car more power for an attempted start. I turned the key and utter silence once again. The engine did not turn, the starter did not spin, and I don't think I even hear the solenoid click. The Unilite is a common problem but wouldn't of stopped the starter from spinning the engine, nor would a spark or fuel issue.

this morning I tried to start my 260z and the engine turned as normal, then I remembered to pull the choke, and nothing. I tried again and it once again turned not start. I released the key and tried again (it was a cold morning) and nothing. Again, nothing, and again. Where do I start? The battery seems fine but I put it on charge anyways. I didn't even hear a solenoid click (although it might of been muffled by my panic). Should I start at the ignition, solenoid, or is there something obvious (or insidious) I need to look at? BTW, it likely doesn't matter but I have a Mallory Unilite ignition.

Do you have a wiring harness diagram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/ You likely need to start at where you had the low voltage and work your way back to the next point to see what the voltage is. Be prepared for a slow tedious few hours.

Have you spoken to Lanny at R&R in Kent about the Mikuni's. https://www.facebook.com/510Restoration/

The clock in my 260z didn't work when I purchased it two years ago and I went through two DOA e-bay clocks before trying to fix it myself. What I did was remove the back to see what makes it tick. I then determined that my clock used an electric motor to "wind" it, then it ran using a main spring. I sprayed it down with contact cleaner and put a drop of clock oil on every pivot point and plugged it in. It has been working ever since. I might of gotten lucky.

siteunseen... Thanks for the suggestion.

I just got word from the shop: "I’ve been talking to my camshaft contact. He grinds a slightly less aggressive cam for your car. The cam itself will cost around $450. We will also need new rockers and lash pads. They cost between $400 and $500 depending on what thickness pads are required. I’m looking at around 10 hours labor to remove and replace, and setup the geometry of the new cam. I will also change the oil & filter when I’m finished. So your looking at $1800 to $2000 if no problems show up after the cam is removed." I ask that he try to avoid having to do a valve job if at all possible since I'd be looking at an additional $500 or more.

The SU whisperer pointed to several potential contributing factors. The performance cam was milled from a CWC core. Apparently, CWC has a bad reputation. That engine should of had an internal oiler, but the cam shaft did not have provisions for that so an external oiling tube was installed. Since exhaust cams for 1, 2, and 3 cylinders were worn out, perhaps, the front half of the oiler tube became clogged.