Jeff Berk

Could someone that has, or is knowledgeable about the Ron Tyler differential mount look at the dimensions of the mount on the listed URL and verify that it is valid for a Z application with an L28 engine/R200 differential? The mount was originally designed for a Chevy V8 conversion so I'm concerned that it might alter the driveshaft angle and put stress on the universal joint. I'm planning on building one using Alteredz.com as a guide. I'm assuming that RT has not patented his design. http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm

Working on your Z in the kitchen. You must have a very understanding spouse.

Impressive work space. I had to get a 4-post lift to store my Z. It looks like you have room for several more. Good luck with your little project and I'm glad to see one more Z saved from the scrap yard.

I’m having a high idle speed issue. I’m running between 1,600 and 2,100 rpm. Prior to this, my 74z with a modified 280z engine running a pair of SU’s was having starting problems and would sometimes stall and idle somewhat slow. I decided to try and adjust the carb’s using https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ Because one of the fist things to do was to check the spark plug condition and gap, I installed a new set of plugs. I’ve never adjusted the timing because I cannot find the timing mark (I have a gun and I know how to use it). I set the idle screws all the way out and then backed them in 1 ½ turns. Then it started right up with minimal cranking, but the rpm is too high. To get a balanced air flow from the pair of SU’s, I had to turn in the rear and back out the front SU’s idle screws. Doing so maintained the high rpm. There was a small vacuum leak from one of the ports on the vacuum balance tube that I stopped with some Teflon tape on the M10-1.0 bolt the PO installed. I couldn’t find any other leaks between the carburetors and engine/intake manifold. The fast idle adjust screw is out all the way. The vacuum activated dashpot between the carb’s not pulling the throttle open and the choke cables are disconnected. Could I be missing a vacuum leak or could the timing be too advanced? If so, how do I go about re-making TDC on the harmonic balance?

I replaced the tank straps with stainless steel, but I had access to a free source of material and a community metal shop to cut them and make the end fittings so I was able to do it on the cheap. I also replaced several of the hoses because I found them to be hard. Braided fuel grade hoses are available by the foot because some German cars appear to use them. Make sure all your replacement hoses are fuel safe.

Does anyone make a replacement plastic end? Anyone try and print one on a 3-d printer or mill one out of aluminum? My short linkage is a little longer than the SS replacement being sold on e-bay and I wasn't able to get the seller to respond concerning a custom length. I figure a used one may or may not be better than what I have already. Jeff

Steve, I decided to run a temporary wire to test the pump and to get the car running again with the intention of removing, inspecting, and re-wrapping the wiring harness over the winter. I re-wrapped several of the other wiring harnesses in the Z and found several melted wires that way. It turns out that the new pump works on the temporary wire but I wasn't getting enough pressure to easily start the car. That was resolved by replacing the mechanical fuel pump this past weekend. Thanks for the input. Jeff

Hi all, My electric fuel pump is not getting power. There is power in the black/white wire off of the 2nd relay and I can trace power to the body harness connector next to the right side of the passenger seat. From there, it should go back to the pump but it never makes it. There is also no continuity from the body harness connector to the fuel pump connector. Given the option of either pulling out the wiring harness from under the interior panels or just splicing in a wire at the body harness connector and running it to the pump, which would be better? How much of the interior would have to be yanked to uncover the defective harness? Note that the car still runs with just the mechanical fuel pump but the pressure is less than 2 psi and the engine is running rough. 260z February 1974

You might want to read this. Then after getting it to work, install a relay for your headlights. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/

But the hose with the 180 degree bend (or two 90's) goes on the top tank connector passenger side, through the grommeted hole and to the vapor expansion tank. If that is correct, I got the wrong diameter hose somehow.

So the hose goes from the the left side of the tank, across the two tail lights assemblies to the evap tank and not the port on the top right of the tank? (Hose #6 in the illustration? )

I'm confused about where a hose goes or if I got the wrong hose for my tank. The attached 3 pictures showing the hose, an illustration of the hoses (I think this is hose #5), and a photo of my tank with the connector circled. I think this is the right hose for this connector but the hose diameter is <1/2 inch and the tank port is maybe 5/8th inch. Where should this hose actually go? My car is a Jan' 74 260z.

I guess I wasn't clear. I'm not replacing the unit but I'm unsure which way to put the old one back in after dropping the fuel tank to coat it inside. I'll look for that set screw assuming that limits travel up. Worse comes to worse, if I put it in upside down, I should be able to flip it without having to remove the tank a second time.

Looking at this picture: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/fuel-tank-sending-unit-oem-240z-260z-70-74 Is this sending unit right side up? I took mine out when I removed the tank for cleaning/coating and cannot remember which way the unit goes. I need to learn to take more pictures when I take things apart. Jeff