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Jeff Berk

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About Jeff Berk

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Contact

  • Map Location
    Aurora, OH
  • Occupation
    Former Hydrogeologist... Now?

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    260z
  • About my Cars
    Early 74' 260z; Rebuilt and mod'ed in 1985 by second owner; neglected by the third owner; slowly getting back to its glory days by me, the forth owner.

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    RLS30019158

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  1. I based the steering wheel design on: https://www.mgexp.com/article/diy-wood-steering-wheel-part-1.329 Its black walnut with bloodwood trim, all treated with cactus juice heat-activated epoxy. I'm still working on the center "coin".
  2. I put the "wood" steering wheel on my 260z but it was too thin for my tastes. I purchased an old Nissan wheel with heavily deteriorated foam covering and made a black walnut steering wheel out of it.
  3. I had a mechanic that used remote listening devices like the one on Amazon and he did a great job of finding a rattle with it. I'm a bit surprised that they go for $100 or so as I thought they would be pricier. I was going to just live with all the noises from my Z but this give me a whole lot more I can tinker with.
  4. Reading through this thread is like reliving my transmission nightmare about a year ago when my 5-speed failed and after buying a trashed 5-speed, I ended up with a 4-speed just to get my '74 back on the road. I later purchased a 5-speed out of a pickup which appears to be identical to my old 5-speed and was well taken care of. I might get around to installing it but I find that I rarely need 5th speed. BTW: I tried repairing a 5-speed using parts from a 4-speed and it worked, kind of. The gear noise sounded like I was using straight cut gears.
  5. I had an issue with my exhaust flange being warped. My mechanic used an extra thick manifold from Remflex that sealed the leak.
  6. One of the PO's installed a crate 280 engine so that explains the extra bolt holes.
  7. I circled the two bolt holes I plan on using.
  8. There are a number of unused, threaded holes between the bolts that hold the intake/exhaust onto the head. I need to attach a fuel rail bracket to the engine and I wanted to use a couple of these unoccupied holes. They seem to accept an M10x1.5 bolt; however, it only goes a turn and a half in and then stops. I don't want to force it and strip the threads so can someone confirm what size these holes are tapped to? It's not a 1.25 pitch as that doesn't even begin to thread on.
  9. Last year I removed my banjo bolts and installed some braided hose junk. Now you made me feel bad... : (
  10. I like the clean engine compartment. Thanks for the picture. It looks like you used the intake manifold bolts to mount the extrusion. I'll likely do the same but come up with a thermal break somehow.
  11. The fuel will enter the fuel rail at the front and has two ports for the pair of SUs. Excess fuel flows out the rear of the fuel rail to a low pressure regulator mounted on the firewall. Fuel then flows to the return line which hopefully has no leaks in it. As for insolation, I'll likely wrap it with something.
  12. I'm installing a fuel rail with a gas tank return on an SU fuel system. A PO removed the original fuel rail and set the fuel system up as a dead head which is causing some vapor lock issues when the car sits between auto cross runs. The issue I'm having now is how to attach the aluminum fuel rail extrusion. There are four 10mm bolt holes on the cylinder head (circled in red), two wire loom screws, and valve cover bolts as possible mounting options. The cylinder head bolt holes would be a good option except that they are so close to the intake manifold flanges that I'm not sure they will be something I could use for mounting. Also, is there any off the shelf fixture for mounting the fuel rail extrusion or at least a design I can copy?
  13. OK, found the right one to unscrew. It was next to the one I unscrewed first.
  14. I just got my 260z back from the shop* just in time for winter storage and have a new issue to address. On the drive home, my temperature gauge showed +250 after a few miles. The engine was not hot so the mechanic suggested I install a new temperature sensor. Unless I pulled the wrong part off my car, something does not match up (see photograph). Just above the old and new sensors is the port it screws into. Do I just need to purchase a new retaining nut (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7115) and switch out the blade connector to a female bullet on my wire? *Welded and reground failed camshaft, installed extra-thick exhaust manifold gasket due to a warped header mating surface.
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