Jeff Berk

EuroDat, I think you spotted the problem. I took a few measurements and couldn't see how the countershaft would NOT fit so I was wondering about the input shaft. Nissan must of put the kerf in the input shaft where they did just to see what fool they could fool. Thanks all for your help. Jeff

I'm not feeling a gap under the cover. I'm using a paper gasket without sealer. After disassembly again, and bumping the counter shaft in with a dead blow hammer, I got the following measurements of the protrusion of the bearings beyond the casting surface: Before hammering the difference between the protrusion of the main and countershaft bearings was 0.04 inches After hammering the difference between the protrusion of the main and countershaft bearings was 0.13 inches This extra 0.09 inches seemed to have helped although I'm feeling some resistance when I turn the input s

I cannot move it any further in on the counter shaft. That gap you pointed out is a step on the shaft. Maybe I need to force the entire counter shaft in a few tenths of an inch?

I've got up the nerve to install the transmission, that and my wife wants her half of the garage back so I had to move the transmission out of the way. I was just about to start the install when I tried to give the input shaft a spin and it wouldn't budge. I checked and I was in neutral so I started back tracking and pulled the front cover off and it moved freely again. I checked to make sure the spacer was in the counter shaft well and I reseated the main shaft seal so it was properly seated and tried again. As soon as I started to torque the bolts to about 13 ft/lb, the input shaft seized up

I inserted an endoscope into the hole I drilled and realized that the striker was just short of engaging. I switch to another striker and this time it engaged and I was able to go through the gears. I could see the ends of the fork rods in the bell housing moving in and out as I shifted through the gears and the input shaft turned freely. Unfortunately, I need to disassemble the case since I didn't apply RTV to the adaptor plate yet but If it work once, it should work again. I've attached a photo from the endoscope showing the non-engaged striker. I knew that endoscope would come in handy some

Just so I understand, I need to put the transmission in gear (example 1st gear) by pushing the fork rod, then drop the adapter plate into the front case/bell housing while making sure the fork rods haven't moved, then put the transmission tail on with the shifter set to 1st gear?

It's me again. I solved the issue with the wedge pin stuck in the striker, I took zKars' suggestion and drilled a hole in the side of the transmission so I could tap it out. I then taped the hole for 1/2-inch 13 threads and bought a short bolt. I figure with thread sealer and an O-ring, I should be able to seal it well enough. Dropping the transmission into the case has been a problem. I think I have it all together properly (see photos on google drive). I installed the shifter, bell housing, and tried dropping the tail in place. I tried different shifter positions, twisting the tail a li

zKars... I drilled a hole in one of my donner transmissions and was able to get the pin out of that one with a few hammer blows against a drift pin. I did that to get a better look at what I'm up against. I picked up an electrical conduit hanger at Lowes and I'm trying to come up with a tool to push out the pin by reshaping the hanger. Not much luck yet. As I said earlier, it's a very tight space.

I was thinking the same thing. When I regain access to the maker space I'm going to see if I can make one. I like a challenge, owning a vintage Z, that should be obvious.

Yarb... I removed the nut and tried to tap the screw out but it's kind of stuck. I threaded the nut back on a bit and tried to use a small hammer to tap it out to no avail. I'm assuming the striker needs to be removed to pull out the shifting bar. Jeff

If that's the rod connecting the shifter lever to the striking lever, I didn't think it was necessary so no. I think I would have to remove the striking lever to do that and with the close quarters, I wasn't sure how easy that would be. I'm going to test fit the case today and see if it shifts through the gears before I RTV the adaptor plate to the front and back transmission case. Is there anything else I should do before I reinstall to test the transmission? I've never rebuilt a transmission before so I'm a little concerned. Jeff

Is there anything I should do to check the function of the transmission before I mount it and fill it up with fluid? I got the replacement bearing (see previous post) and should be able to get it installed tomorrow.

Well, it's difficult to say what year my transmission is at this point. The 5th gear part is off a '82 worn out trany, most of the rest of the innards are out of a '78(?) 4 speed, and the shafts (except the input) are out of my 70 something transmission that a PO installed in the early 80's. Not sure how it's going to work once I get it together... kind of sounds like that old Johnny Cash song.

I could be wrong (keep in mind that I'm rebuilding my FS5W71B and keep having to undo what I put together) but I think you are missing a spacer (part 32624). Just wondering, I think I read that you bought a rebuilding kit from Rock Auto. Does the input shaft bearing in your kit have a retaining ring because mine did not and I'm waiting on a new bearing that has the clip.

I think I have it ready to go back into the case but there was one minor discrepancy in the parts that I noticed. The original input shaft bearing had a snap ring but the replacement that came with the kit from Rock Auto did not. Is this a problem? I test fit the transmission in the case and it seems to shift, but not smoothly. I'm assuming that's because it's not spinning at all and has no oil other than what I dripped on the gears when I assembled it. We are having some really nice weather outside right now so I need to get that car back on the street.