crayZlair

I have the TEP EFI setup on my autocross Z, and I absolutely love it. I started with the Electromotive TEC-GT management system for distributorless Ignition capabilities(crank trigger) along with triple Mikuni sidedraft carbs that I got for cheap. I could not get the carbs to run right under the extreme cornering of autocross (kept wanting to bog, probably float issue). I switched over to the TWM/Borla side draft throttle bodies and everything is so much better! The TEC-GT gave me the option to run carbs or EFI, all had to do was wire the injectors, change the fuel pump and add a few more sensors.

Probably had nothing to do with a Datsun. The letter/number/letter combination is known as a "field reserve" in BMV lingo. You could reserve the same # year after year. The K 14 Z and K 48 Z plates that I have were my parents plates. The K and the Z are the first and last letters of my last name. The numbers were what was available when my Dad reserved them. This was before vanity plates were available (and cheaper).

I've got 2 '74 Ohio plates with Z in them, Any interest? (I'm keeping the one in the middle!) 😀

I have a 211 and I like it! The welder has been good for everything that I have wanted to weld. You will want to use 220 volts if you have it available, and stay away from flux-core wire. Use the solid wire and CO2/Argon shield gas. It will mig-weld aluminum if you get the optional feed gun and proper shield gas, but I do not have that setup.

Never had much of an issue getting oil on the starter. The side of the block cleans up pretty easy. Just my $.02.

Just curious as to why you are thinking about doing this ???

Sure, the next time I pull them out, but I don't see it happening anytime soon. Sorry. Thought I had a picture, but I can't get an accurate count from it.

I bought my Torsen direct from Gleason a long time ago. Invoice says part # is M006-8

Gleason is still in business. Ask them. https://www.gleason.com/en BTW, I have one in my 73 240 R200. Works great! AFAIK Gleason did not make one for the R180.

Pardon my crude drawing. Lets assume for the sake of explanation that the float arm at its lowest position is at 45 degrees from level. This will give you an empty reading on the fuel gauge. If you bend the float arm down slightly, it will effectively change the angle of the arm at the pivot point, causing the fuel gauge to read somewhere above empty. The fuel gauge may show full longer, but the main purpose of the fuel gauge is to let you when you are empty, correct? Any reading above empty is not as critical.

Try bending the float arm "down" a little bit. This will cause the float to start moving up off of "empty" with less gas in the tank.

Ditto on my '76 ..................

The ant-ox is conductive. You want to keep the electrons from "spilling out" from underneath the rubber boot on the wires which could cause arcing, cross firing, etc.

Your cap probably has aluminum terminals, and you wires probably have some kind of plated steel terminals. Two dissimilar metals will eventually corrode due to electrolysis. The anti-ox will work, just don't use too much. (Better dizzy caps and wires will have brass-like terminals and not corrode as fast).

Apology accepted. 😀 Made this series of videos about 8-9 years ago. Some day I'll finish them.🙄