crayZlair

The ant-ox is conductive. You want to keep the electrons from "spilling out" from underneath the rubber boot on the wires which could cause arcing, cross firing, etc.

Your cap probably has aluminum terminals, and you wires probably have some kind of plated steel terminals. Two dissimilar metals will eventually corrode due to electrolysis. The anti-ox will work, just don't use too much. (Better dizzy caps and wires will have brass-like terminals and not corrode as fast).

Apology accepted. 😀 Made this series of videos about 8-9 years ago. Some day I'll finish them.🙄

7:10 mark shows the trans mount. Don't take the metal sleeves out!

Think that I may have found the ultimate solution. I read a post in this Forum about wiring up a power steering system from SilverMine Motors. I went to SilverMines site to look the kit over, and found this as part of the kit. It is designed to go between the speedometer and the speedometer cable. Have it coming, and hopefully it will work as planned.

Pictures tell a lot...............................

What type of power steering system are you installing?

Just came up with another idea. Since most sensors are compatible with GM products are far as mechanical attachment goes, I can cut the speedometer cable and attach the appropriate GM fittings in the middle. I think that I can find everything that I need here: Speedometer Cables USA

You just gave me an idea! This is a GPS receiver sold by Adafruit. Adafruit Ultimate GPS It is designed to be used with an antenna and an Arduino or similar mini-processor. I already have the necessary parts and plan on using it for GPS tracking of the autocross courses. All I have to do is capture the speed signal and send it to my ECU. Easy! Thanks for the inspiration.

Used to get it at work. Also found that the local NAPA store carries it. It really does work great!

zKars, your VSS will work perfectly for the speed input to the Electromotive TEC-GT ECU on my autocross car. However, I hate to give up the OEM speedometer which I integrated into my dash. I'm looking for a pass-thru style sensor, something like that attached picture, but so far I've struck out. Another thing I learned from this discussion is the thread size of 20mm x 1.50. Thanks.

Some pictures to describe what Jeff G did...............................................

I think the the purpose of the lock pin (wedge) is two-fold. #1 is to keep the pin in place in the strut assembly. #2 is to keep the pin from rotating so that the proper torque can be applied to both jam nuts. It may have more to do with the assembly process .........................

I think that I would go with the EFI. Once you have it dialed in (a good dyno tuner shop) you'll never have to worry about it again. It will start in any weather, no choke to play with. However, I'm a little older than you, and it's never "fast enough"! 😀