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dmorales-bello last won the day on February 7 2019

dmorales-bello had the most liked content!

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About dmorales-bello

  • Rank
    Dr. Dave


  • Map Location
    Coral Gables, Florida, USA
  • Occupation
    Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About my Cars
    1977 280Z, purchased new in '77, sold in 1981. 1980 280ZX, purchased new in '80, sold in 1984. Current owner of 1978 280Z HLS30-465628.

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  1. Sometimes we get lucky and lightning strikes in the middle of the night with the possible solution! I'm glad it was a simple fix and all of us that have swapped to LEDs will benefit from your experience. Thanks !
  2. Great progress, Nice job! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. My '78 280 sits just over 12 volts. Probably 13 volts of I had to estimate. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. It's kinda sad that your friend will be likely separated from the car he's loved and cared for with such devotion since 1976. Having not had children, along with other parting thoughts, I'm sure he's thought about not enjoying his Z any longer. This might be something we'll all face down the line. If you've been appointed as the next "keeper of Z" by your departing friend, I agree that following his line will pay honor to your friendship but, as we do when we buy a used home, we tend to repair some things that have not been taken care of by the previous owner simply because priorities change as we grow older or sick. Your new ownership will bring new momentum for increased care and to take on overdue projects like replacing worn weatherstripping, electrical and mechanical issues that invariably arise but may have been put on a back burner as your friend aged and sickened. So keep it as original as he had it but invest in worthy maintenance so as to keep it roadworthy, safe and enjoyable. Please take pics and post often and, most importantly, (if you can) assure your friend before he parts that you will take care of his baby.
  5. Makes perfect sense to me! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. I really like the direction of your build and I commend your dedication to bringing this Z back to life in the Great White North. Where did you source the cool katakana Z emblems? Are they metal or ABS plastic? I love these! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. That's exactly the idea. I was motivated to do this because I caused a short in my wiring (about a year ago) which my fusible links did not protect. Part of the harness fried and the fusible link insulation melted but the wire remained intact. I was able to disconnect the positive battery terminal. If not, I may have had to deal with the consequences of a fire. I had inherited from the p.o. the fusible links with one black and three brown wires (as is commonly accepted) but there's a lot of discussion about the correct choice of link gauge for proper protection, as you know. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  8. I just realized the cause of your confusion is that the pics are out of sequence. My bad, sorry. The pic with the 30 amp fuse is older and the one with the 25 amp fuse is the newer with my current set-up. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. No, the 30 amp fuse held up fine but the idea is to find the lowest rating fuse that will still protect the circuit in case of a short, that way your cables won't fry before your fuse blows. I actually started with a 50 amp fuse in that circuit and have been working my way down to 25 amps which is likely where I'll stop as long as it holds under all normal loads. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. Sure! Here's a couple more. I placed the fuse block inside a watertight acrylic case at the same position in the engine bay where the fusible links were located. I posted a little write up on it a couple of months ago. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. I was committed to updating the information pertaining the amp rating for the Maxifuses I used in the fuse block that replaced the fusible links but I'm embarrassed to admit I can't locate that post. Moderator's help in properly placing this update will be appreciated. Anyhow, here's the update. I have been running this set-up (pics below) for a couple of months without issues. The consensus was to decrease the amp rating of the fuses used as much as was logically possible to test how well they protected each circuit. I've made a point of driving with as much electrical draw as possible with the AC, headlights, sound system, turn signals when necessary, hazard lights and horn when possible. The only system I haven't used simultaneously is the windshield wipers/washer because I don't take the car out in the rain. The circuits have been identified on the decal on the inside of the case cover. Despite the information on the Atlantic Z page regarding amp ratings for the different color fusible links, my current (no pun intended) set-up is much lower and, as stated previously, seems to be working well. Circuit 1 (ACC): 50 amps, Circuit 2 (IGN): 30 amps, Circuit 3 (H.L.) 25 amps, Circuit 4 (IGN) 20 amps
  13. To me the whole "ambiance" inside the cabin is what matters. That includes all switches and knobs looking good and working properly, including the radio. I really don't mind if the radio was repaired with old or new technology as long as it looks era correct, but the best sound possible it emits is truly appreciated.
  14. Ran into the same problem described earlier in this post (that refuses to die!!!). My driver side door would lock with the key yet would not unlock. Not totally convinced that the hanger wire repair will be long lasting and wanting a method that (if failed) would still allow me to repair the cylinder via the FUA technique described before, I decided to try a different approach without the addition of any "parts". The wear on the flat "shoulder" of the cylinder where the arm makes contact and pushes it to rotate, transforms that shoulder into a type of ramp which allows the arm to slide over that edge thus preventing rotation of the arm. When I examined the worn ramp effect under magnification I noticed that the wear on the cylinder metal was truly minimal but the fact that the 90 degree (flat) shoulder was minimally altered rendered the rotation of the arm ineffective. With the use of a fine diamond burr on the Dremel I shaved a minimal amount of metal at the base of the "ramp" transforming it again into a flat step, very similar in shape to the unworn one on the other side of my cylinder (the side used to lock the door). To my surprise, the remedy proved immediately effective mainly because the original shape of the "shoulder" is attained with very minimal loss of material (less then 1mm) and no extra parts (wire) are needed for the repair. Total cost of repair; $0.00. Now my cylinder locks AND unlocks the driver side door properly. Granted, eventually the cylinder metal will wear again but by that time maybe ZCar Depot will make replacement cylinders for the '77 and '78 Zs that can be keyed alike with the original Nissan keys. Here are some illustrative pics: Pic above showing the deformed "shoulder" on the cylinder (circled in red). Ramp squared off and back to original shape with fine diamond Dremel burr. Unlock side (left) and Lock side (right) are quite similar after Dremel work. Lock arm back in position and working properly to either side.