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The NOS rear glass has been installed successfully, I am so happy with it . Mr. Tasaka , who is my friend and he restored my Z432 for the several car shows in Japan and ZCON 2014 did the installation job . He is very happy because the old glass is going to be on his Fairlady 240ZG awaiting full restoration by him , just for his pleasure. Also he has a white Z432 , has been sitting for a decade, half completed its restoration. Seems this old glass pushed his mind ahead and gained his passion for doing his own cars , I am also looking forward to seeing his cars ready for the road . I just can’t remove the label on the glass , well , the rain will sink into the paper and once it has softened , the wind will blow it off . Kats

I can't say enough how awesome this forum is and how helpful everyone is. I look forward to the day when I can actually answer some questions rather that ask them!

I like the OCD discussions about details. It's the Hoover in me.

Here's a little background music to play while you're Hoovering. Dennis

I ran out of likes for the day. Great news.

Thanks for all the info. I swapped plugs and the high speed miss went away so that's nice! I did have a problem with the curvature of the float tab on one of the floats. It was to rounded and ended up hitting the needle more on the side then the top. I did my best to straighten it out.

One more tonight, I would like to show this tape , this is a Nissan 8 track stereo demo tape . It contains guidance of operations of the stereo system , a female voice talks to you “ thanks for choosing Nissan 8 track car stereo, this stereo is very reliable under vibration condition.... to begin with, let’s adjust the balance of left and right speaker s , I will make a sound from the right , then left , and both ... “ And this tape is made by Clarion , Stereo system was made by two manufacturers, Hitachi and Clarion at that time . Hitachi doesn’t provide music , but Clarion was a brand of music , lots of singers belonged . This tape , at the end , Nissan March is featured. I found this March was used in the film of “ development of Datsun 240Z “ at the end of its video , you will hear it. Kats

Datsun/Nissan also had the throttle control knobs on the earlier Roadsters. The knob always required some type of pull force to keep operational, otherwise it would drift back to idle. So, back in the day (late 70's), I kept a stack of popsicle sticks in my ashtray and would shim the throttle control knob so I could cruise at the desired speed for long road trips. Used to drive straight through from San Diego to norther Idaho that way, along with a bottle of No-Doz. No way I could do that now.

The front cup holder is installed wrong.

Headliner installed, managed to find the proper perforated material.

I just hope that whoever purchased the car will restore it back to its original glory and with an early L24 engine and gearbox if possible.

Have you tried to clean it? I had success soaking mine in lacquer thinner and plowing it out with compressed air. It took three cycles of solvent and air to get it clean but the key to getting it to spray properly was cleaning the spray holes with a torch tip cleaner. The old spray bars work quite well if they're clean. Frequently the soldered joints fail but that's an easy fix.

Some outstanding photos and information! Thanks to all that contributed. Just curious, is the picture below with the model on the 240Z at the Boston Car Show the same model during that famous incident that put a large dent on the top of the fender? She doesn't look like she weighs very much, but we all know how soft the fenders are on the 240Zs!

I just replaced my compression/tension rod bushings recently on my '71 240Z. The car sat idle in a garage since '89 so they hadn't been replaced since before that time. They were oriented with the flat surface of the bushings mounted against the frame mount and the rounded side facing outwards toward the big washers. The washers were oriented with the concave side on the outside (ie. away from the bushings), much like @Captain Obvious post from yesterday. I just took pictures and replaced them the same way.

I am blown away by the quality and engineering that went into this Zcargarage BBK (big brake kit) The kit was designed by stoptech engineers and Zcargarage from the ground up for the Z. I am sort of a guinea pig to see if consumers can install this kit. They have amazing detailed 40 page instructions. Which in the car world is rare. I’m stoked to get them installed. Kit comes with everything needed to install and retains stock parking brake and MC. Fits 15x8 wheels as well! So light!

Some interesting ones below thanks to data and images from @kats @HS30-H @Mike B @Carl Beck & @26th-Z and anyone I missed (BIG THANKS!) May 1969 - total 2 cars - one domestic, one export: 1 = S30-00001 (Factory prototype 1) 2 = HLS30-00001 (Factory prototype 2) June 1969 - total 1 car - domestic: 3 = PS30-00001 (Factory prototype 3) July 1969 - total 4 cars - two domestic, two export: 4 = HLS30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 1) 5 = S30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 2) 6 = PS30-00002 (Primary Production prototype 3) 7 = HS30-00001 (Primary Production prototype 4) August 1969 - total 7 cars: 8 = S30-00003 (Primary Production prototype 5) 9 = S30-00004 (Primary Production prototype 6) 10 = S30-00005 (Primary Production prototype 7) 11 = PS30-00003 (Primary Production prototype ? 12 = HLS30-00003 (Primary Production prototype 9) 13 = S30-00006 (Primary Production prototype 10) 14 = PS30-00004 (Primary Production prototype 11) October 10 Two 240z test cars and parts arrive in North America in crates - HLS30-00004 (Silver Manual Mfg:09-69) Seisan Shisaku: #14 - HLS30-00005 (Silver Automatic Mfg:09-69) Seisan Shisaku: #15 < October 22 Three 240z demo/photo/show cars arrive in North America - HLS30-00006 (Green) - HLS30-00007 (Silver) - HLS30-00008 (Red) Oct 17 Press Presentation Ginza HQ, Tokyo Oct 20 First Ad in Japanese Paper (432) Oct 22 NYC International Preview Pierre Hotel (and press kit release HLS30-00006 Green) Oct 24 16th Tokyo Motor Show Oct 24 Wilshire Motor Show Preview LA Oct 27 Calif Competition Press and Autoweek Article on the new 240z with photo of Test car Oct 30 Boston Motor Show Oct ?? HLS30-00013 & HS30-00003 produced Nov ?? 432 Race Track Testing Suzuka Circuit Nov 25 Japan Test Drive for Journalists near Mt. Fuji Nov 25 ARRC Daytona Speedway 240z (red HLS30-00007) Dec 20 Refined Z's Shipped by plane to North America (following Seisan Shisaku road testing feedback and export production slow down to resolve) Early Z Production car Early Z Photos Early Z Advertising and Promotion Early Z Brochure Press Show in Japan Tokyo Motor Show Boston Car Show ARRC with Early Promo Z in Public Press Test Drive in Japan Early Z Coverage in Magazines Manufacturing Testing in North America

Keep coming back! Not like the court ordered kind.

Should accomadate 240-280z. Full kit. Comes with pads. I don’t know if you can pick other types? Includes everything. Even brake fluid.

Some updates. The front end and side skirts have been mocked up. There are some slight differences where the side skirt fender mud gaurds mount to the body between the 86 and 87-89 so he will weld in a little metal there and tighten everything up. On the front, I have always hated that little rubber strip that goes between the front bumper/fenders and the bumper/hood. He will modify the bumper and relocate the mounting tabs to the fenders as well as slot the mounts from bumper to hood. Then the surfaces will mate up to each other like they should have. I also have always felt the rear bumper is far too long so he sectioned out 1.5" and will bring in the back half to the first step down on the top surface. It already looks so much better than stock without sacrificing the stock lines. The engine is together and we are good with piston to valve clearance with cam gears at 0. Now he will try and and set them more aggressively at maybe 3-4 and check again. Going to try some Mikuni velocity stacks on the RB26 throttle bodies since I found some with the same bore and only 5mm difference on bolt spacing. Should be able to slot the holes and have an off the shelf solution. I had the front cross member and torsion bar brackets powdercoated along with the port and polished intake manifold. I realized afterwards that I should have gotten the later 87-89 torsion bar brackets done because they are of a far superior design but that's easy. Lastly, since I lost all of my detailed and meticulous dissasembly photos, I have been searching for a junker to basically dissasemble as I put my car back together. Plenty of parts I could use as well so in my daily searches for the past year plus, I finally found a 87-89 300zx that was local, manual and $500 or less so I had to buy it! I call it winky.

And here are two quick upholstery pics from the camera phone. Should have more to show this weekend.

Are you talking about this forum? If so, you might want to reserve your opinion until you are a little better acquainted with it.

I blasted and painted all my suspension components. A lot of work, and mostly just for looks (here in California, at least), but I'm happy with it and would do it again. I spent a bunch of money on Eastwood's chassis black paint that wasn't worth it. If I had a do-over, I'd just spend $10 on a quart of black Rustoleum.

Just remember, most folks that mod the suspension say it makes for a "firmer" ride. Are you ok with the current level of "firmness" and do you want more "firmness". If you are using it as a weekend cruiser, the stock setup may be the best option. I find my stock "firmness" more than firm enough. (going for the joe pesci casino award of using the same f word as many times as possible in a single scene).

Mystery solved! I've been trying to adjust the outside mirror with mine since 1971. ? Dennis

Welcome to the forum soggyfish. There's no jealousy here, at all. That car has been on every facebook group in the whole galaxy over 10000000 times. Maybe I just dont' really appreciate dealers/flippers/speculators clogging up everything for their own interests. Its a nice car. Glad you joined here to contribute your opinions, all opinions are welcome.

Jason240z, why so bitter? Worst thing about these forums is jealousy filled participants that don't offer anything productive but rather spend their time taking meaningless shots for no obvious or productive reason

Haha!! My old Alfa had a knob that did that. But making it even worse was that it was a twisty turn style knob. Ten turns or so to actuate, and ten turns to de-actuate. Not the kind of thing you could do quickly. Darwin was driving!

I believe they were nicknamed “Darwin’s Cruise Control” for obvious reasons! ;)

Your all wrong the right lever deploys the high speed deployment parachute that was only on series 1 240z. The reason the very first cars had this is they were not brought over by ship they were air dropped right to the designated dealers lots this saved a lot of time and import taxes at the ports. After the cars landed the pilots usually flew back to japan for the next round of shipments. Unfortunately for the pilots datsun phased this out. Some dealers left this in the car even after being instructed to remove it. Dealers often referred to these highly secretive deployment cars as series Zero 240z due to the use of retired Japanese WWII pilots. In order to get even weight distribution with the parachutes Datsun added many attachment points As seen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the United States, the hand throttles were supposed to have been removed before the delivery of the car to the purchaser. Blank statement - all cases. NO cars sold in the United States came with hand throttles. Now, having said that, there is some credible evidence that some cars made it through the dealer prep and were delivered with working hand throttles. Hand throttle systems were sold through the parts department and plenty were sold (in both styles). By all evidence, HLS30s were not imported, distributed, and sold in any sort of sequential VIN numbering. Thus, it is in error to say or imply that only the lowest VIN cars escaped the ravages of dealer preparation and came equipped with hand throttles.

I did the same thing. Capped a PVC pipe and filled her up with thinner. Got the idea from someone on this forum. Worked well for me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

(Sorry in advance but can't help myself..) The right one is for your front carb.. and the left one is for the rear carburetor.. this is made this way for if your front part of the engine is already hot due to the Sunshine.. No no..Now for real.. left is choke ( ofcourse for both carbs) , right is your gaspedal.. for controlling it by hand.. Only the first year (or the first 1,5 or so..) had the right lever.. my feb.1971 has had it .. but when its older it can get dangerous.. so often it is removed..

Nice to see it finally listed so he can stop advertising it everywhere.

Just a couple of comments after reading everything so far. - I would make sure that your manual fuel pump is moving enough fuel. Could be a good time to try a low psi Airtex E8016s pump mounted near the tank. And, if you stick with an electric pump, research how to make it work only if you are starting OR you have oil pressure. FYI, my 72 Zs both have a fuel pump harness in the rear. Not sure whether all 240s had the harness. And, the harness doesn't include starter / oil pressure feature. - I was originally concerned about your float levels. You wrote that you sorted them out by using the 10mm method. For me, this is the only way I can get the floats set right...and equal. - If your floats are actually set correctly, you should be able to set the mixture at 2.5 turns and have the car run pretty well. And, you should be able to move the mixture screw up and down and see a definite difference in the mixture. When the floats are not set correctly, mixture screw movement often has no effect because you are beyond the boundary of adjustment because of the incorrect float setting. - Another thing to consider with the float adjustment is the shape / curvature of the adjustment tabs. The needle valves that we are able to buy today suck universally. The original needle valves had a much thicker needle. New needle valves are thin and seem to wiggle around and get lodged sort of easily. One thing that I believe causes the new needle valves to get lodged is if the adjustment tab has too much of a curvature to it. I try to keep the adjustment tab as flat as possible...not totally flat but not dramatically curved. - Assuming the floats are right, I would go back to your color tune. I use it and think it works great for me...with the following tips. 1) Clean your color tune after every few minutes of idling. Use carb cleaner to clean. If I don't keep the color tune thoroughly clean and clean often, I can't discern the color differences. Literally, after 3 or 4 minutes of idling I will pull the color tune and clean. 2) Adjust the carbs when it is dark and keep the lights dim or off. This will allow you to see the color differences more clearly. 3) I adjust so that idle is a bit rich (a bit more red than blue).....and 3,000 rpm is a more blue. This at least is how my SM needle profiles work out at those two rpm levels. FYI, I have ZTherapy carbs too. They are great but were not adjusted well at all when I received them....especially the floats. Hope you are able to get things sorted out soon. One last thing...your red / orange plugs are likely caused by the fuel additive you are using. Most say it is not a problem.

240Znomad, Thanks for the contribution and another data point. Absolutely agree. And that rounded cup on the frame member is exactly why I had my bushings in rounded side towards the cup at first. Then I kept seeing pics of other people's bushings and they were always the other way, so I switched mine. (Despite the fact that it makes engineering sense to me to put them in the other way.) So I'm not saying it makes sense. I'm just saying that's how I always see them. In reality it probably doesn't matter much. As long as it doesn't cause a caster change or cause the T/C rod to bind during normal movement, then the orientation probably doesn't matter much at all.

It's all described in the FSM, Engine Fuel chapter. BUT, I just remembered the one situation where the pump will run with the key at On in the 1978 model. If the oil pressure switch is disconnected. That creates the "Open" condition shown in the table. It's a flaw in the design, but many 78 owners use it as a trick to turn their pump on.. So you either have the wrong oil pressure sender or yours is broken, if that's the cause for the pump running. Anyway, it still sounds like your rail is leaking down, whatever the reason. I think that the CSV portion of the rail might not refill as fast as the rail itself, because it's on a branch. drive your car, park it, the pressure drops and the CSV dries out because it's hot. Turn the key on, the pump runs and you get pressure, but there's a bubble at the end of the CSV line. So, basically like having no CSV. Get your pressure to hold overnight and it will probably start normally.

I might could have helped you get a title through SC, in the future. We can apply for a title if it's never been title in SC and is over 30 yrs old. Takes a little while but we have had success with this route in the past.

Looks like you got a great idea with the calipers...Also I like the info on the spring compression value testing... Good job. As far as the high idle adjustment I always tried to use the highest rpm that the flow meter could accomodate. I dont recall if i was able to reach the 3500 rpm on the one i had....Long time ago. And on my new old Z I still have not adjusted them...The engine revs so smooth and pounces that I have felt the need for it yet. Also have not checked the timing either, gotta do that one of these days... And since you mentioned it, I need to check and see what t ype of distributor I have. All i know is that I have pertronix electronic ignition and its worked out beautifully so far... Lots of works to do on this car..

I took these in 1984 I think.

Oh my, take a look at this one. It appears to be a Datsun steering wheel intended for "Western" production of the Z (USA model). The translation is a bit confusing, it says something about the wheel only being used for 10 hours? Not really sure what to think about it, but, the wheel looks pristine. Asking price appears to be $4,200 USD... not for the faint of heart. To top it off, I think you'll have to fly to Japan to pick it up in person. How many rich guys do we have on this site? ? https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/s651979706?conversionType=search_suggest Here's the translation: Photography after March 20, 2019 I received your visit, Thank you very much. ● After the new purchase of S30-based final model, because of the early retrofit, use time about 10 hours, because it was good indoor storage-preserved environment, Miraculously, It Has Maintained The Freshness Of Remains Of Those Days. ● Do Not Taste In The Recycled Product, The Remains Of The Time, And Smooth Texture, You Can Taste The Shiny Deep, Such As Tortoiseshell. ● Because It Is DATSUN Mark, Also recommend as an interior. ● We recommend for those of genuine. ● In a real and recycled products, I think that calm when sitting in the cockpit is different. About good S30 Z genuine steering of ★, seems not hard to find, even in the full restorative car one million yen class, so you often see the playing back is not good appearance, this product is very valuable we will be proud of such goods . It Is The Original Owner Of The Comment One Owner Goods Of Goods. [Genuine About The Wooden Steering] Before From Now About 41 Years, After A Few Months To Buy The Final Model Of The S30 System Fairlady Z (The Fairlady ZT 2 / 2 GS 31) in the new car, "Nissan genuine sports corner steering" (← at that time the item name, current, because the reprint was retrofit to Nissan Datsun has been referred to the competition handle), this product is, removed, had the indoor storage. At one point, the remains of the "Nissan genuine sports corner steering" because there was a time when not pass through the inspection, it was used several times for the inspection. Of This Product, And The Texture Of The Tree That Was Like-New Still Out, The Color And Luster, Such As Tortoiseshell, Not Taste In The Recycled Product, I Think That The Guests Feel The Calm. Still, That The Steering Keeping The State At The Time Of New Cars Are Present I Think Miraculous As Now A Lapse Of More Than 40 Years. Because It Is DATSUN Mark, GT-R, It Can Also Be [Japan Import] Used, Such As In Laurel. Although We Have Described The Adaptation Table Below, Because It Is A Copy And Paste Of A Certain Company, I Need Will Help By Self-Responsibility. We Will Recommend To Those Of Genuine. Owned the car 41 years ago, but was let go two years ago, remembered that there remains a genuine handle, I tried to take out, either, because I thought I thought I would decorate the room, was a little living room of the results, the temperatures When I have to calculate the time of use of this product, it is just 10 hours before and after. There Was A Since Difference Achievements, Of 41 Years Ago, Had Kept The Beauty That Did Not Change At All . a few years era that does not pass the inspection if no marked trumpet to the horn button, because the horn button of the Z mark had been used by being mounted to the "Nissan genuine sports corner steering", as it is a car I let go with. As a result, "it had been installed in the Nissan genuine sports corner steering, horn button of DATSUN mark," "Z genuine wooden steering wheel," and now that I am allowed to exhibit a combination that. Of course, in even time time Thing "Horn Button Of DATSUN Mark" This, Use Time For Only A Few Hours, Because It Is A Very Clean State (Pad Section As New), I Think That Bargain Goods. (Fitting The Complete Repair Reference Under Photos Already) At The time, Western Z of export specifications, more than the Z mark, the horn button of this DATSUN mark has not been installed, looked in more far the fearless ones of the Z mark. (Photo below see) We also have a query on the photograph, of the steering wheel at the time, not high quality of the painting of the spokes, and look good, scratches, etc. , but I think that there is also a method to use to play the steering, which is exhibited at low cost, wooden steering is, because it is a transparent paint and varnished, deception is not ineffective, of the time at new car beauty Saya, I think that is difficult to reproduce the color and luster. Other Day The, To Be The Same Products That The Exhibition Of The Others, Because I Found The Same Flaw, Was Convinced. Again, Usually Of A Different Order The Scratches, Still A Lapse Of 40 Years, Does Not Change To Rust.

Jan 1971 Two sections of the rear harness pass through the floor near the rear right tail light 1. Front pass through contains fuel sender wires (blk & Yel along with fuel pump blk & Grn) 2. Rear pass through contains rear ground wires (two black wires from harness crimped to one connector) Here is the front pass through with fuel sender and optional fuel pump wires. Here is the ground wire connection (2 wires crimped to O ring connector) Here is refreshed ground connector extended from the broken part above. It is connected to frame near fuel tank. (The black is sprayed corrosion protection.) Here is sender and fuel pump connectors routing:

Hi , I will replace a rear deck glass of my Z432 with a NOS one soon , I have got this when I flew the place and brought it back home with my plane. I am so glad that the defroster works perfect, the glass passed the operation test . It is my style , boiled water under the glass . Kats

I know you said these are fresh from Z therapy. I did a swap with them years ago. I just bolted them on and did the basic tune. I never could quite get it to run right. always seemed lean and uneven. Recently I was going back through all the adjustments again and this time added the float level check. I found the rear to be way off. Once I reset the levels with the Float Sync. it ran much better. It was running mostly on the front three just fine, but the rear three were much leaner due to the float height. Your video sounds lean to me, but it's hard to hear clearly on my computer speakers. Just something to at least rule out. No ill will against ZT, it just might have been missed. It did trouble me for some time thinking they had to be set up correctly.

Hoovered another HLS30-00007 off road picture for your viewing pleasure. Note the rubber rear bumper guard, and missing "D" in hubcap These early Z photos also had similar hub caps: HLS30-00008

I'm just hoping to be able to stick around to celebrate my own 50 year anniversary in a couple of years.