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240Znomad

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About 240Znomad

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    Orange, CA

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    240z

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  1. I tried a similar test myself using a vacuum pump when the new GMB pump was failing. I hooked up a vacuum pump to the GMB inlet side (side coming from fuel filter and tank) and when I applied a vacuum, it would not hold. I took the GMB pump back to the store where I purchased it and showed the test to the guy at the counter. He exchanged the pump for me. Much like you, I went through 2 GMB pumps and still have the 3rd (brand new) sitting in my garage as a spare. I tried the Nikki/GMB clone idea before installing the 3rd GMB pump and so far it has worked so I haven't had to try my spare GMB unit.
  2. When I got my 240Z running a few years ago (after sitting for 28 years), I replaced the original Nikki pump (mechanical) with a new GMB pump as the rubber diaphram inside the Nikki pump was dried and cracked. The new GMB pump worked initially, but soon (just a few rides) it stopped pumping fuel and I saw the same issue you did, after turning the engine off, the fuel in the fuel filter would slowly drop. I purchased a new GMB and the same thing happened, it worked for a few rides, then quit holding a vacuum (ie. sucking in fuel). I figured the one way valves on the new GMB pumps were failing so I took the bottom half of the new GMB pump (side with the rubber diaphram) and the top of my old original Nikki pump (side with the two one way valves) and mated them together. It has so far been working well.
  3. I replaced my old, original Nikki pump a few years ago when I got my 240Z out of storage. I replaced it with a GMB. It worked fine initially, but after a few months (probably no more than 50 miles of driving), it stopped working. I got another GMB, and it too worked for a few days and then quit. I used a vacuum pump to determine that the problem was the "one way valves" that allow fuel to enter the pump, and exit the pump, were failing to keep a good seal. The rubber diaphram (driven by the lobe on the cam) that is used to "pull fuel in" and "push fuel out" was just fine. I took the good GMB bottom (with rubber diaphram) and used my old, original Nikki top (with the original two valves) and mated them together to create one good pump. It's been working for over a year, granted I don't drive the car much, but that is longer than either of the GMB pumps. Needless to say, I am not a fan of the GMB pumps.
  4. I have a 4/71 Z as well and mine has the ash tray and lighter in the center console.
  5. That model number on ZCarDepot is different than the aftermarket one I tried using but it looks very similar, ie. has the OE look. The specific model that I've had problems with is a GMB brand, and the number on the box is 550 8040, I still have the box with the top half of the pump sitting in it. I'd definitely spend a little time checking the fuel pump as your problem sounds eerily similar to mine. If the fuel filter is going dry, it's got to be either no fuel coming from tank (ie. no fuel, blocked line, etc.) or fuel pump not drawing fuel.
  6. When I got my Z running a few years ago (after sitting for 28 years), I replaced the fuel pump before I ever tried to start it (original Nikki pump). After removing it, I opened it up to check it's condition and sure enough the rubber diaphram was cracked and broken. I replaced it with an aftermarket pump that had an "original" look. It worked, but within days (I don't drive the car much) I started have issues where it would die and then not start. I noticed that the fuel filter would always go dry when the car died or the engine was off. I used a pressure gauge to check the fuel pump and quickly discovered that the fuel pump valve (inlet side that draws fuel up from the gas tank through the fuel filter) wouldn't hold a vacuum. So I tested the valve on my old Nikki pump that I just replaced and sure enough it would hold a vacuum. I went and purchased another aftermarket pump (same exact model) and it did the exact same thing, worked briefly and then the inlet valve started leaking (would not hold a seal) so I took it back for another replacement. About this time I starting thinking that the new aftermarket pumps were of poor quality so I decided to try something. I mounted the top of my old Nikki pump (which contains the 2 one way valves) to the bottom half (containing the rubber diaphram and lever arm) of one of the new aftermarket replacement pumps and lo and behold, it worked. I have been running this setup (old original top half of Nikki pump with bottom half of aftermarket pump) for over a year with no problems (granted I don't drive it much). Try using a vacuum pump on the inlet side of the new fuel pump, you should be able to create a small vacuum that holds. Do you have any pictures or a make and model of the aftermarket pump you used? I'm really curious if it's the same one I've had problems with.
  7. From reading your last post, I get the sense that you may have replaced the fuel pump recently as you mentioned "other than when the old fuel pump that was on it stopped working." In your opening post you say that the float bowls keep going dry which would suggest that either the fuel pump is not working properly or the float valves are getting stuck. Based on your comment that the fuel filter was also dry, that would suggest that the fuel pump may not be working. What is your fuel pump setup, original mechanical style or electric? If mechanical, and it was replaced recently, what did you replace it with. I had a very similar problem recently when I got my old garage stored '71 Z back up and running.
  8. When I got my clutch working (after sitting for 28 years), I had a lot of travel in the pedal as well before it starting to move the slave cylinder push rod. It turned out that the clevis pin that connects the clutch pedal to the master clutch cylinder was all worn out. Instead of being a nice round hole it was worn down to a long oblong/oval hole. In addition, the clevis pin that fit into that hole was worn completely down to almost nothing. I removed the clutch pedal and took it to a shop to have the ovalled out hole welded up and re-drilled. Then I replaced the clevis pin with a new one. Mine was worn so badly that I was probably losing half the pedal travel before it actually starting to move the master cylinder.
  9. I just replaced my compression/tension rod bushings recently on my '71 240Z. The car sat idle in a garage since '89 so they hadn't been replaced since before that time. They were oriented with the flat surface of the bushings mounted against the frame mount and the rounded side facing outwards toward the big washers. The washers were oriented with the concave side on the outside (ie. away from the bushings), much like @Captain Obvious post from yesterday. I just took pictures and replaced them the same way.
  10. View Advert Wanted - Cam Oil Spray Bar The cam oil spray baron my '71 240Z is in rough shape. I am interested in buying a used one if anyone has a spare for sale. I have read the the later spray bars off of some of the 280Z's may be a better design and I am interested in this later style as well if anyone has one for sale. Thanks, Craig. Advertiser 240Znomad Date 05/30/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240Z  
  11. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    The cam oil spray baron my '71 240Z is in rough shape. I am interested in buying a used one if anyone has a spare for sale. I have read the the later spray bars off of some of the 280Z's may be a better design and I am interested in this later style as well if anyone has one for sale. Thanks, Craig.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  12. The cam oil spray bar on my '71 Z either needs to be repaired or replaced. It seems from reading the many forum posts on this issue that this is a common and inevitable problem with this part. I have seen the aftermarket part from the 'yoesheadporting' website listed earlier in this thread. Has anyone here purchased one of these and if so what did you think of it? It looks like a nice quality part. As an alternative, it would be nice to keep the car somewhat original. Does anyone have an original spare cam oiler in good condition that they would like to sell? I have heard that the later model versions of these (I think used on some of the 280Z models) are an improved design. I would be interested in this style as well if someone has a spare one they are interested in selling.
  13. When I noticed that there were two different types of hardware used I figured I might as well fix it using all the same so I figured I might as well put it back to it's OE setup. I'm just not sure what the OE setup was. I noticed there is a full rear deck lid on Ebay right now with the panel in place and from the pictures it appears that it has the captive sheet metal screw/washer setup that I'm guessing uses the u-style spring nut. It's interesting that @jfa.series1 also had a mix of hardware (ie. plastic rivets and sheet metal screws) just as mine did but I've got to believe that it didn't come from the factory that way.
  14. I have a '71 240Z (4/71 build date) and while replacing the original (deteriorated) cork gasket on the rear deck lid interior panel (vinyl panel over press board held in by 10 fasteners) I noticed that there were two different types of mounting hardware being used as shown in the picture. About half were the typical plastic rivets while the other half were a captive sheet metal screw and washer that used a u-style spring nut. I've looked at some of the exploded parts diagrams and it appears that there were a number of different methods used to mount the panel based on the model year. Does anyone know what the correct method was for a late '71 series car?
  15. A couple of things you might check. 1. The inner weather stripping that goes completely around the rear lid opening and seals the rear window lid to the car body. There should be an outer seal that only goes 3/4 of the way around (I believe this one is for shedding water) but if the inner rubber seal (that goes completely around) is old, broken, or cracked, you could definitely have exhaust gases creeping back into the car's cabin. 2. The gas tank has an expansion tank that is located in the cabin on the passenger side just above the fuel filler area. This tank has several hose connections that connect it to the gas tank below the rear deck. If any of these hoses or the expansion tank have any cracks, leaks, etc. it could lead to you smelling fuel in the cabin.
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