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About 240Znomad

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    Orange, CA

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  1. When I got my clutch working (after sitting for 28 years), I had a lot of travel in the pedal as well before it starting to move the slave cylinder push rod. It turned out that the clevis pin that connects the clutch pedal to the master clutch cylinder was all worn out. Instead of being a nice round hole it was worn down to a long oblong/oval hole. In addition, the clevis pin that fit into that hole was worn completely down to almost nothing. I removed the clutch pedal and took it to a shop to have the ovalled out hole welded up and re-drilled. Then I replaced the clevis pin with a new one. Mine was worn so badly that I was probably losing half the pedal travel before it actually starting to move the master cylinder.
  2. I just replaced my compression/tension rod bushings recently on my '71 240Z. The car sat idle in a garage since '89 so they hadn't been replaced since before that time. They were oriented with the flat surface of the bushings mounted against the frame mount and the rounded side facing outwards toward the big washers. The washers were oriented with the concave side on the outside (ie. away from the bushings), much like @Captain Obvious post from yesterday. I just took pictures and replaced them the same way.
  3. View Advert Wanted - Cam Oil Spray Bar The cam oil spray baron my '71 240Z is in rough shape. I am interested in buying a used one if anyone has a spare for sale. I have read the the later spray bars off of some of the 280Z's may be a better design and I am interested in this later style as well if anyone has one for sale. Thanks, Craig. Advertiser 240Znomad Date 05/30/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240Z  

    • WANTED
    • USED

    The cam oil spray baron my '71 240Z is in rough shape. I am interested in buying a used one if anyone has a spare for sale. I have read the the later spray bars off of some of the 280Z's may be a better design and I am interested in this later style as well if anyone has one for sale. Thanks, Craig.


  5. The cam oil spray bar on my '71 Z either needs to be repaired or replaced. It seems from reading the many forum posts on this issue that this is a common and inevitable problem with this part. I have seen the aftermarket part from the 'yoesheadporting' website listed earlier in this thread. Has anyone here purchased one of these and if so what did you think of it? It looks like a nice quality part. As an alternative, it would be nice to keep the car somewhat original. Does anyone have an original spare cam oiler in good condition that they would like to sell? I have heard that the later model versions of these (I think used on some of the 280Z models) are an improved design. I would be interested in this style as well if someone has a spare one they are interested in selling.
  6. When I noticed that there were two different types of hardware used I figured I might as well fix it using all the same so I figured I might as well put it back to it's OE setup. I'm just not sure what the OE setup was. I noticed there is a full rear deck lid on Ebay right now with the panel in place and from the pictures it appears that it has the captive sheet metal screw/washer setup that I'm guessing uses the u-style spring nut. It's interesting that @jfa.series1 also had a mix of hardware (ie. plastic rivets and sheet metal screws) just as mine did but I've got to believe that it didn't come from the factory that way.
  7. I have a '71 240Z (4/71 build date) and while replacing the original (deteriorated) cork gasket on the rear deck lid interior panel (vinyl panel over press board held in by 10 fasteners) I noticed that there were two different types of mounting hardware being used as shown in the picture. About half were the typical plastic rivets while the other half were a captive sheet metal screw and washer that used a u-style spring nut. I've looked at some of the exploded parts diagrams and it appears that there were a number of different methods used to mount the panel based on the model year. Does anyone know what the correct method was for a late '71 series car?
  8. A couple of things you might check. 1. The inner weather stripping that goes completely around the rear lid opening and seals the rear window lid to the car body. There should be an outer seal that only goes 3/4 of the way around (I believe this one is for shedding water) but if the inner rubber seal (that goes completely around) is old, broken, or cracked, you could definitely have exhaust gases creeping back into the car's cabin. 2. The gas tank has an expansion tank that is located in the cabin on the passenger side just above the fuel filler area. This tank has several hose connections that connect it to the gas tank below the rear deck. If any of these hoses or the expansion tank have any cracks, leaks, etc. it could lead to you smelling fuel in the cabin.
  9. @Zed Head, thanks for the reply. I don't remember the type of valve seals but I did replace them sometime last year. I believe I got them from Motorsports Auto. Here's a bit of history on the car. The car had a new head (E88) installed back in the late 1980's. It was driven for about 20,000 miles before being garaged for the next 28 years (1989-2017). I never had any problems with sticking valves back, these recent incidents are the first I've had (I drove the car from 1979-1989 and put about 110,000 miles on it before putting it up in the garage). When I got it out of storage in 2017 the gas tank was dropped and re-furbished, all fluids replaced, all hoses replaced. When I got it running in 2017 I replaced the valve seals shortly afterward. Have you heard of valve seals being too tight and causing a valve to stick? If so, that is a possibility. I'm leaning toward the gas (or gas tank) being the issue just because it seems to be happening on the intake valves (2 times now, happening on 3 valves). It seems like it may be related to the gas gumming up the intake valve guides while sitting. That might explain why it seems to happen on the intakes only. I'm thinking of picking up some Marvel Mystery Oil and trying that in the gas/oil to see if it helps. Does anyone have any experience or comments about using something like that in the gas or oil. It seems from reading the forums that some have had good success using it.
  10. I just fired up the engine on my '71 240Z to do some carburetor adjustments (car had been sitting for a week), and had 2 valves (both intakes, #3 and #5) where the rockers nearly popped out of the lash pads. Here's a quick history: 1. I had a lash pad pop off about 6 months ago, see pictures above in this thread. 2. The car has since been sitting for the last few months (I have been working on the heater core and a few other items) and fired it up last Friday. Warmed it up and took it out for a drive to the gas station and drove a few miles. No problems. 3. The car sat all week. I went to fire it up today and before it even started up (ie. while cranking the engine over) I could hear some loud clicking. Finally fired up 10-15 seconds (after filling float bowls) and clicking was loud so I immediately shut it down and thought of the previous lash pad issue. 4. Removed the valve cover and saw that the lash pads were "****-eyed" and the rockers were off line on both the #3 and #5 intake valves. I loosened the nuts to lower the rockers and got everything back in place. Re-adjusted both valves (cold), put the valve cover back on and fired it back up. Everything sounds and runs ok. @Diseazd mentioned earlier in the thread about a possible issue with the gas tank liner (Red Kote) dissolving in the gas and gumming up the valve guides causing the valves to stick. This sure seems like a possible cause since it ran fine when I shut it down last week and was clicking immediately on cranking today. I did have the gas tank completely re-done at a local shop about a year and a half ago so I think I need to run down and talk to them about what they use to line the tank. Does anyone have any other ideas or things that I might check? I think I read someone mention valve seats possibly being an issue, and another mentioning possible weak springs. Has anyone tried an additive like Marvel Mystery Oil to clean carbon deposits or gumming on the valve guides? In the pictures below, the first two (015 and 016) are intake #3 and the second three pics (017 to 019) are intake #5. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Captain Obvious brings up a very good point. I was just recently helping a fellow board member tune/balance his carbs ('72 style carbs) and one of the issues he was having was that even with the idle screws completely backed out, his car was still idling hi (1000-1200 rpm). We discovered that his throttle linkage was "on" even when the throttle wasn't being used. In other words, his throttle linkage wasn't returning back "off" fully. We popped off the throttle linkage (the little plastic cap) and suddenly the throttle plates closed completely, the rpms dropped way down (to where the engine would barely idle) and we were able to begin using the idle adjust screws to begin balancing and setting up the carbs. I think he was able to remedy the problem by adjusting the throttle where it goes through the firewall and connects to the gas pedal. It might be something to check out as it does sound like your throttle plates are partially open even at idle.
  12. Blitzed, I recently went through many of the same issues getting my '71 240Z back up and running after sitting idle in the garage for 28 years. As Mark just mentioned, the mixture adjustment nuts are just for fine tuning the mixture, you've got to get the float bowl level set correctly first for the adjustment nuts to work properly. If you're down 4 turns and still backfiring out the front carb, it sounds like the front carb needs the float level checked and adjusted to "richen" it up. I noticed your location says Placentia, is that Placentia, California? If so, I am just a few miles away in Orange. Let me know, I would be happy to stop by and give you a hand. I am by no means an expert, but two eyes may be better than one to help get it sorted out.
  13. I had the same problem on my '71 240Z. Car would crank and start fine but as soon as I let the key return to the "ON" position it would die. I replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the most likely source of the problem but it didn't make a difference. I finally tracked it down to a loose/dirty connector on the ballast resistor. I removed the connectors, cleaned them real well, and made sure they were nice and tight when I put them back on and everything works fine now. I believe on the 240Z the ballast resistor is bypassed when in the START (ie. cranking) position but comes into play when the key returns to the ON position. I haven't looked at the 260Z electrical diagram but I would imagine that it might be similar.
  14. I had the same issue with one of my side marker lights as well. The metal housing was completely rusted out. I purchased the aftermarket ones on Ebay from Malaysia (or Thailand). I noticed a few things were different so I just took them apart and used the new metal housing but used the old, original rubber, outer metal trim, and plastic lens which were all still in good shape. I just cut the old bullet connector off the rusted original one and soldered it onto the new housing.
  15. Jaymanbikes, for your exhaust upgrade, it looks like you've got a stock exhaust manifold. Is that an E30? I'm looking to replace my current old exhaust (header has holes) and was looking at replacing it using a stock exhaust manifold and new exhaust system from MSA as well. Did you use the MSA Premium Exhaust System (for stock manifold)? If so, any tips or advice you have would be greatly appreciated. That OE yellow plating looks great, what shop did you use? I've got some parts that I would love to get re-plated.
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