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gundee last won the day on July 14 2016

gundee had the most liked content!

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About gundee

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    Registered User

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    North Central
  • Occupation
    Electrical Sales

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    Silver 72 240Z

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  1. Great. Like I said earlier, your description sounded definitely fuel. Ignition issue is a totally different sound.
  2. Did you ever change the filter inside your fuel pump? Most are not aware there is one in there. Assuming you run the factory 260 pump.
  3. From your description, almost 100% certain its running out of fuel. I had the exact same symptom you describe.
  4. This is a very informational read. Wayne's World: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html
  5. Check your crank pulley has not slipped first. Also with a 8mm wrench you can loosen the bolt under the dist and adjust to get more adjustment when you have run out of range. I run 10 degrees max at idle myself.
  6. That is what I thought. And you replaced that middle one with one of the others. After doing that you have the same issue. Then I go back to my original statement. I deduce that it is then Nothing to Do With the Carb At All. Need to look elsewhere.
  7. Then one carb is all good and 2 are sticking? Just to clarify.
  8. Quote: " I swapped carb position and problem stays in middle carb. " I must be missing something. If a good carb does the same thing in the center position, then it can't be the carb or the linkage Also, If the linkage is disconnected as shown then the linkage is out of the equation completely. So its been good all the while you had it and then turned to crap after carb rebuild?
  9. Now that it is back together, I was warming up the engine to see if any tune adjustments were needed. After I got out the timing light and a few tools I figure that should be warm enough. I start to check carb balance and I say to myself, doesn't seem hot enough yet. Why is it taking so long? I look inside and the temp gauge reads 1/2 so Its good. As it turns out the ceramic coated headers really do contain a lot of the heat. Very noticeable compared to the old cast iron set up. Pleased to know that.
  10. Super. Thanks zKars. Shows 2". I have just around 1" out so I am good. I had it all back together and did not measure it, so that saves me from pulling one end off again. I owe you one. I ended up with a lot of toe in by lengthening the lower control arms so I needed to crank more toe out to bring it back.
  11. No, talking about the other end where tie rod screws on to.
  12. Anyone know offhand how long the threaded portion of the inner tie rod is on a 240Z? Added camber with new lower control arms and need to adjust toe out quite a bit more. Want to make sure I do not go too far for safety reasons of course. Thanks.
  13. Replaced springs with Eibach using the same shocks. Front is now back to normal. Vogtland still says not their spring problem as theirs never go bad. What a joke.
  14. Its all back together now. Nice and tight and well sealed. I was making it more difficult than it was. Ended up to just grinding 1/2 of the washer down. That was enough to get them to sit good enough. Also I found that 4 longer studs needed a couple extra washers, The nuts were tight and washers looked good but closer inspection showed the nuts had bottomed out to the unthreaded portion of the stud. Its really easy to overlook a problem like this as you can't see a thing doing those bottom manifold studs. Even with a mirror. I think I had this issue even before I put the headers on. This whole thing started because I could not get the carbs to respond to adjustments. Real bad air leak from intake after the new header install was the culprit. These carbs have never responded this well to changes. Very happy with it now.
  15. You should have the old "monkey motion" gearbox in yours. Get the delrin or poly replacement bushing if they are still around. Otherwise put a new rubber one back in. You have to remove the console but is real easy.
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