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Zaspen

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Everything posted by Zaspen

  1. For future reference I did figure something out for these bushings. The outer transverse link rubber bushings have the same OD and length for the body of the bushing. The inner sleeve has a bigger ID but the original crossmember inner sleeve fits perfectly inside the new bushing, The new bushing also has a slightly shorter sleeve so you have to make that distance up with a spacer. Luckily I had some old transverse link bushings that I was able to pull the inner sleeve and cut to size. I should have taken some pictures but I was pushing to get it done and the tranny in.
  2. Thanks for the info on Precision shims. Looks like they can make what I need
  3. Thanks for the links. These places seem to have stock thickness but nothing else near that. I will call them and ask anyway
  4. I just started my motor with my rebuilt head and once it heats up it sounds like someone is beating the valve cover with a hammer. I reused the cam, rockers, and lash pads since my motor guy said they were in good shape. New valves, guides, and seats were installed. I took a look inside and first found that they had three rockers in the wrong spot (per their engraved numbers). I also saw no markings on the lash pads so I'm guessing that they just put them wherever. I looked at the wear pattern for the three swapped rockers and nothing was centered. I want to replace (or regrind) my rockers and get new lash pads but I can't seem to find where you get lash pads near the stock thickness. I'm guessing based on my wear patterns on the current rockers I'm going to need to get different thickness lash pads. Does anybody know where to find lash pads near the stock ~ 0.120" size?
  5. Here's a couple shots of the engine (mostly) installed.
  6. That makes me feel feel better. I have no clue what would go there. Thanks
  7. It's wider than the speedo cable ans I'm pretty sure it belongs on furthest back isolator
  8. I took no pictures and for the life of me I can't remember what goes in the "hose" section of this isolator clamp. Please help! And please ignore my poorly plated fuel lines!
  9. Thanks for the links. I'll check these out.
  10. Unfortunately it seems every manufacturer and z store ignores the fact that the 1972 bushings are actually different from all other years.
  11. Bumping this topic to see if anyone might have some ideas. I'm getting close to the point of tranny install. Thanks
  12. Looks like that worked just fine. Looks like a similar "before" color as mine. Here's my stands with wheels. My daughter was in charge of lowering it down.
  13. Thanks! Putting it back together with the everything being so clean is awesome. Getting it on and off the trailer was fun. Basically I would jack the car up by the frame rails high enough to get it on the stands that are in my first picture. Then I would jack the stands up and insert scaffolding wheels. It was a tilt bed trailer so I could roll it off.
  14. After 6 months at the body shop I finally got the shell home! Progress as of this weekend. Starting to come back together! I can never seem to get a good picture in my garage- probably a combo of the bright LED lights and my crappy 6 year old phone! Can you spot the hidden headlight relays? I'm also running a ZX alternator so the voltage regulator does nothing more than hide the necessary diode. More to come!!!
  15. Bumper pieces ready to head out to the chrome platers.
  16. Thanks to @motorman7 for the zinc plating tips and the name of a great place to get it done in AZ. Here's a lot of shiny hardware! Bins of the rusted undercarriage parts headed for the powder coater. Things were looking pretty sharp post powder coating. The PO installed Toyota four piston calipers on the front so I kept them. I got all my aluminum vapor blasted which turned out great as you can see on my distributor.
  17. Thanks to all the generous and knowledgeable people on this site I've been able to make great progress on my 72 240 restoration. I figured I would share a few pics to show the progress to date. Car post tear down in September last year. Had a decent Ferrari red paint job but rust was starting to show and I wanted to get it back to a pumpkin. It had the usual rust. I did the floors and frame rails myself last winter but I wasn't going to attempt any real bodywork!
  18. This helps a lot. I've been trying to fish the wires in the channel behind the hatch hinge not outside of the channel as shown. I have 500 pictures of the disassembly but not this one. Thanks!
  19. I'm finally at the reassembly stage of my 72 240z and I cant figure out how to run the part of the interior wire harness that goes up to the defroster and dome light. is it just supposed up the C pillar and go behind the hatch hinge? My hinge and gasket are installed. Thanks!
  20. I may have one lined up but it's not definite. Are there any scratches or scuffs? How are the defroster lines? Thanks
  21. Great call. I have the MSA sway bars so the washers are different but I just found a stock link and the washer matches. No clue why I ordered them. Thanks!
  22. Im losing my mind. I took pretty good notes for every fastener I removed from my 240 when I took it apart...except for these washers. Any thoughts where they go? I even ended up buying new ones from Nissan which are shown in the pictures.
  23. The poly bushings they sell are still too big with the sleeve out. I actually turned one down to fit but then they are too long. Both the small diameter and the flange area are too long.
  24. #18 is what I need. It melted from the heat of the powder coating process.
  25. I made a rookie mistake and had all the pieces of my transmission crossmember power coated including the inner piece that has the rubber bushings. Well the rubber bushings melted away- go figure. I turned to the poly bushings which apparently don't fit a 72 mount and now I'm at a bit of a loss. Anybody have any replacement ideas or even an old mount with good bushings laying around? The OEM replacement bushings have been NLA for years. Zeddsaver has a restored one for $200 plus shipping so that is always a (pricy) option. I'm trying to keep my restoration as correct as possible so I really want to stick with the original mount style. Picture of my mount style below for reference
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