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Everything posted by 240260280

  1. A very unusual problem but you found it. Good work and it should help others who rebuild their carbs. For heat issues in hot regions, I read that some people took thermos bottles of cold water to pour on the fuel pump back in the 1970's
  2. Thanks. No problem.I am on vacation in a very remote area and internet is spotty.
  3. I's be grateful to buy the following:, 240z radio knobs (thanks @siteunseen) 240z rear view mirror, 240z coat hanger hooks, 240z plastic seat belt J hooks and 240z rear tail light plastic finisher (if it has no access ports)
  4. @kats Yes Please. I can offer payment for your troubles to have the film digitized. I think the Z Community would be better for this! You are such a great researcher and source of information! BIG THANKS!
  5. It may be one of yours that I removed the red or from the net. Here is another two I cleaned up:
  6. I think fly wheel would be most accurate from an angular error perspective, and from a mechanical slop perspective: Distributor has gear lash slop at crank Damper has rubber migration and shear. Flywheel is bolted to crank, teeth are farthest from axis for least angular error, and they move fastest for strongest pulse at same rpm. You can easily add more teeth for finer resolution.
  7. Great photos and a beautiful car! Thanks!
  8. Details of throttle hand throttle linkage at pedal and cable routing would be nice to see
  9. More photos of every thing at every angle please. btw here is 504:
  10. 200sx throttle cable conversion: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/54528-cable-throttle-linkage.html#post482558
  11. WOW a nice ending for a persistent trouble shooter. That was a very unusual problem to solve. My hat is off to you!!!
  12. Here is @blodi's similar config to yours: It is fairly flat and around 12-13 like yours but a big dip to ~ 10 at the start.
  13. Do it in two steps: 1. Melt some solder on the tip of the iron then place the tip under the wire in the harness. Let the wire heat up then feed solder into it. Keep the heat on it. Congrats you tinned a wire. 2. Wrap the other wire around the tinned section and do the same: Melt solder on the tip then heat the two wires while feeding solder... don't be shy on the heat time. It can take a while. Just keep the iron on the wire.
  14. @moelk Nice A/F. What jets, chokes, fuel level etc are you using? Looks like they had smoothing on. Very similar to @blodi's
  15. 194 HP is nice! @blodi had similar with 45's, cam, and L28.
  16. 1. Clean with vinegar and tooth brush until copper on both wires is bright. 2. Pull back enough insulation on the exposed end so that its copper can be fully wrapped around the exposed copper in the harness wire. 3. Solder the two together. 4. Insulate with electrical tape.
  17. I like to paint phosphoric acid on metal then wipe with acetone when dry.
  18. Canucks! On sale now: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/air-belt-sander/A-p8572208e
  19. Try disconnecting the connectors 1 at a time to the lights switch/wiper switch in the steering column and see which one causes the problem. Watch out for the power cables from shorting.
  20. I like the Uni-Syn for high RPM balancing check when the air flow is high.... but the STE Synchrometer is very accurate and repeatable. It works nicely for SU's at ~ 7 to 11 kg/h (depending on calibration) for idle. You can pull the rubber lip out a bit to expose the holes in the throat then dial up the rpms so that the front carb is at 35 kg/h then move to the back carb to adjust the balancing screw to get the same 35 kg/h Note: The BK Black version is 1-35 kg/h but the SK Silver version is 1-30 kg/h. The black one is better for SU tuning.
  21. Picked up a lot of NOS parts . Check out the classifieds.
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