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240260280

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Everything posted by 240260280

  1. Be careful your new Govt does not go the way of Canada... here is what you can expect when researching something mundane as shipwrecks at a museum site. I did this just last night. Beware of fringe group agendas pushed in your face under the guise of "Diversity".
  2. I always liked TonyD. He was the first to help me when I first got a Z and signed up on ZCar.com. Funny I first thought of him as being Japanese because of his knowledge about these cars. I tried to visit with him when working in the Philippines but local transport was a bit too challenging.
  3. Here is HLS30-00029 and a past owner is on our site. He will certainly enjoy your find! @JLPurcell
  4. I thought Classic Z's was about feather beds? Why am I here?
  5. Vinegar on a rag is great for dealing with mold.
  6. Maybe drilling a piece of brass to the right diameter may work nicely.
  7. The on on the right is shown below
  8. This can join them... some pliers and patience may allow you to bend a north american sta-kon connector to do the tick. North America Types: http://knowhow.napaonline.com/wiring-terminal-connector-guide/
  9. It seems the wire is heating near the top of the black end that is melting. You may be able to use a thermo-gun to measure the temp of the wire at that point and also at the same point but the other end,,,, then reverse the cable to see if a possible higher temperature remains at the distributor end or if it moves to the coil end. This will tell you if the cable or cap is the problem.
  10. I'm thinking I^2 * R. Charge just builds up on the coil to rotor button section then jumps. That plug-wire to cap contact is huge compared to the small button touch point so it is difficult to see how it could be so resistive there. The connection must be very corroded to heat up and melt plug wire? I don't get it.
  11. wow...never saw that before. Is it Made In China wires? Is it arching there? There is not much current to heat at that point so it is an odd failure.
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