Jason240z

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Jason240z last won the day on March 13 2018

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About Jason240z

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  1. A) Yes, as in the rear fit is great for me B ) No as I need to measure what movement i've got on the front before the bar hits the rail, a little more thought would be nice. I actually fixed the rear problems, as one link should be longer than the other to prevent pre tensioning the bar(due to the mounting areas being flipped on the pressings on the control arms. However lets see how they work. The rear might be a a couple of MM too thick, although its thinner than other places offered!
  2. Got on with some bits i'd been putting off due to the 'fear' of doing it. There was a tiny bit of over 'blasting' from the second round of paint that left the bottom of the rails looking like they could suffer, along with the lovely original panel joins in the wheel well, that would be prone to water ingress, so it was stripped, etched/sealed/primed/stone chipped and painted. stone chip all under the front also. Then paint Once that was done, subframes and ARB's. Rear wheel bearings finally sorted. I've got a technique now, after all the practice I had! I shimmed the companion flange 1mm using 0.5mm shims, wheels turn nice and freely. A dry build of the front suspension I've an issue, where the lower adjuster on the front strut hits the balljoint thread. only needs 3mm to clear However a set of RCA's/bump steer spacers will do the job. Common american ones are 1" which I think is far too much, 15-18mm would do myself fine. I've concern over how close to the frame rail the front arb is. I can't remember how close the standard one is. a 'fix' would be to increase the thickness of the spacer/spreader plate under the chassis rail and cutting some length out of the distance piece on the arb link. I'll measure how much travel I get before it hits first. I did drop it on its wheels for the first time in 7-8 years.
  3. Its not different to other parts they copy i'd guess?
  4. This is apparently the retail price, I guess they swallow any tooling costs as they'll sell volume.
  5. I wouldn't waste your money. The tried and tested Harada would be the way forward.
  6. has anyone put the dash options side by side? Someone did say that some were going to get made in china, good quality and cost circa $300?
  7. I'll work out how to repay you. You're a gent.
  8. I've been having a ruddy nightmare getting the wheel bearings right. Think I've sussed it, but needed to put a wheel on to check for play. far from ready for it. Good chance to also check my new finned alloy drums
  9. Yeah, amazingly effective, I could see the grease pushing through the bearings on the inner side, even after i'd loaded the bearings.
  10. I've done the other side, I think what was happening is that when I pressed the hub side in, it was pushing the bearings back out on the inner side, and vice-versa. Once the nuts turn up i'll torque and check. Either that or I had an issue with both my original stub axles. What I did do was fit a grease nipple so I can load the hub up with grease as part of a 'service' so hopefully, once done they should last my lifetime.
  11. So, it now seems to be 'fixed'. Need to torque the hub nut up properly, however for some reason, another shaft/rear wheel hub seems to have sorted it. Going to torque it up correctly shortly to be 100%.
  12. i'm hoping to sort this now i've some 'car time' coming up. along with buying another full set of bearings.
  13. you mean this as a start....... https://www.kxii.com/home/headlines/Marshall-County-man-faces-six-felony-charges-304026481.html also selling cars and buying back between him and some of his BAT buddies....