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About Zaspen

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    New Hampshire

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  1. I can't say enough how awesome this forum is and how helpful everyone is. I look forward to the day when I can actually answer some questions rather that ask them!
  2. Thanks for all the info. I swapped plugs and the high speed miss went away so that's nice! I did have a problem with the curvature of the float tab on one of the floats. It was to rounded and ended up hitting the needle more on the side then the top. I did my best to straighten it out.
  3. Good Carb info- thanks. I'd say that it pretty much in line with what I've done but I never tried so set the mixture at a fast idle (2K+)
  4. Mine would be a 72 with US emissions so the numbers match what I'm seeing. Thanks for the chart!
  5. I will have to try lower RPMs up a hill with the vacuum advance disconnected. I havent checked the mechanical advance besides seeing the timing advance. I will do that. I saw it advance to 50 while revving it with no load- is this invalid? I added extra timing marks to get to 45. Plugs only have 500 miles on them but they did get pretty carboned up with the Holley on there. I will try new ones. Thanks
  6. I set the floats this weekend using the 10 turn down method and it runs pretty well at lower RPMs. It idles good and pulls well up to about 4K and then starts to break up. It will rev up to 7K fine but just breaks up along the way. I thought it might be lean but it behaves the same way if I have the choke fully on. I also noticed that the timing was advancing from about 10 BTDC to around 50 BTDC at higher RPMs. I thought it could be detonation so I pulled the vacuum advance so it would only advance to around 35 BTDC with the mechanical advance but no change in the break up. I suppose it could be ignition so perhaps I should try a coil, cap/rotor. It has a Pertronix ignitor in place of the points. Interesting note is that the plugs are brick red when I kill the motor under load at around 2K and a little lighter if I kill the motor at 4500. I'm running 87 octane with a lead additive for the valve seats.
  7. Thanks for all the float info. I'm going to try the 10 turn method over the weekend.
  8. I measured the floats using the clear tube method and the fuel level is 23mm below the bottom of the float lid (where it meets the gasket) for the rear carb and the front is at 28mm for the same measurement. I've read a lot about 23mm being the correct level but am I measuring it from the correct point? I'm assuming they both should be 23mm? The front carb had a lean backfire a few times. I suppose this could be the reason.
  9. 3.5 turns is the highest idle. I tried 4 turns but had the same issue. I will check the floats tonight.
  10. I believe the description of the piston rising too quickly and then becoming to lean was spot on. I made a big time rookie mistake and assumed the dashpot oil level was correct and it was low. I never looked into the correct level and since oil was touching the bottom of the "dipstick" I thought all was well. I put in the correct amount and the chatter is gone! But now without the chatter when I take off its like a bucking bronco. It's as if I'm just learning to drive a manual. If I give it gas after the clutch is out it starts bucking. Not like a loss of power I don't think but I'm not sure. It does it as I shift in 2nd also. Any thoughts? Thanks to all for the help with this!
  11. I need to do a plug check soon. I think I'll take it to work tomorrow and try on the way home.
  12. So I believe Z Therapy uses ATF in the dashpots so that is what is in there. I attached a video that shows the 'chatter". Perhaps its more of a hesitation. The first time I rev in the video is from idle and it happens, the second rev I don't let it get down to idle completely and it seems fine and then the third is again from idle and it hesitates again. I feel this hesitation when I take off from a stop or in between "slow" shifts. I also tried the lifting the pistons again and it dies with any amount of lift <1/32" 20190521_174657.mp4
  13. I'm using the stock manual pump. Not sure what you (siteunseen) mean about getting the cables right. Are you referring to setting the choke cables correctly? I basically pushed the choke lever fully open and attached the choke cables with the cable levers fully dis-engaged. I then made sure they opened the butterflies evenly and pushed the jets down. Is there more to it then this? I'll give it a shot with the updated timing and see what happens also. I do think at 2.5 turns out the car would be very lean- bet I will confirm.
  14. If I back the timing of to 7 BTDC the idle drops a little bit. It also increases a little bit if I advance it. Not nearly as much as I remember with the Holly carb. If it raise the piston with the pin the idle drops way down an almost stalls the car. Both carbs have the same response. I though this indicated a lean condition so I lowered the jet in 0.5 turn steps but the response to the piston lift never changed. I have the jets set at 3.5 turns out normally and took them all the way down to 5 turns and there was very little change to the piston lift results. At 5 turns out the car would barely idle under normal (no piston lift) conditions.
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