Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
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So I'm new to this world of restoration.. This is my first car.. I'm in the process of removing the intake manifold on my '76 280z and I'm a little stuck. I've removed the intake manifold bolts holding it to the head, I don't know where to go from here. I have removed everything that looks like it would be in the way but the thing won't budge.. I guess my question is how do I pull the intake manifold? My Haynes manual is in the mail.. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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Im looking for the proper torque settings for the valve cover in a 1976 280z.. :stupid:
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hi all, So... I got my fuel pump all connected back up, new lines, etc., and thought I would change the differential oil while the car was jacked up. The oil was sort of brown and slightly smelly -- not a burnt smell, but another smell that is somewhat hard to describe. The magnetic drain plug was slightly "hairy" with filings stuck to it. There was the tiniest bit of debris in the bottom of the pan I collected the oil in. Some of it glittered (i.e. filings). The longest filing I found was about 3/16" long and about 1/16" wide, but most of what I saw was about 1/32" in size. When I was finished refilling the oil and cleaning up, my hands were a bit glittery too. …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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ok guys i have a 76 280z and i have the FSM, but cant seem to find a section where it gives help on changing the belts, can anyone help me i need to change all my belts, except timing chain
Last reply by bryand2, -
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What's the difference between them? Is the '72 head a lot better? I'm asking this because I have a 70/71 240z and a '72 cylinder head sitting in my garage. I might have the engine rebuilt and I'm wondering if I should put on the '72 head.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Hey Guys, Im getting ready to replace the differential insulator mount, to hopefully get rid of my rear end clunk, and was wondering what the leased painfull way to go about it is. Is there any way to replace it without dropping the whole diff and drive shaft? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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I've just joined the forum and already have a question. I'm working on a 73 240z that was put in the inlaws garage since 1985 and hasn't run since. I did get the motor running after putting in a battery and hooking up a gas line to the pump from a gas can. I removed the flat top carbs last night to rebuild them. While they were off I decided to clean up the engine compartment. When cleaning off the line that supplies hot water to the rear carb I noticed it was plugged. I tried to pick out the crud that was inside and it was bright yellow and soft like paint. Eventually after picking at the mess I realized that there was some wood also in the line. So I screwed a sheet…
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
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Hi all, I just got a 76 280Z that's been sitting awhile and the clutch goes right to the floor. I tried bleeding to no avail and then changed the slave cylinder again with no improvement. I am going to be changing the master tonight and hopefully that's it, but I'm wondering if I am missing something I should have checked before throwing the new parts at it. There aren't any leaks, and I topped of the fluid. Any Ideas? Thanks!
Last reply by CC>>Inferno, -
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So I'm thinking ahead now that the weather is starting to change and my Z will likely be spending much of the next seveal months in the garage. It's a 78Z, 4 speed manual (original stock set up). This summer I bought a 5 speed (and the 3.90 diffy) from an 83ZX and plan on installing it in the next few months. And I thought that this would be an excellent time to go ahead and replace the clutch. I've read alot of stories on this and other forums about the importance of matching up the t/o bearing, fork, pressure plate and disc from either the original set up or from the donor car. Here's my questions: 1. When buying the new clutch, should I buy one for an 83ZX (since th…
Last reply by ea6driver, -
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Ok so I'm running a '76 280z and the engine is all factory. The only things I have done is I've replaced the distributor cap/rotors, spark plugs and wires. Im looking to do some engine work to beef this thing up..I guess I would just like to know where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot. Peace, John
Last reply by Zdriver19, -
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Hi all, So I'm looking at my rear axle again, figuring out how to tighten it up. (It gets a bit bucky and jiggly sometimes.) I had previously noted that my passenger side half-shaft had a lot of play in it, so I knew I had some work to do there. Today I jacked up one wheel, left the other on the ground, put the transmission in gear, and turned the lifted wheel back and forth to figure out where I had play. The outer U-joint on the passenger side is pretty well shot, as I can see it rocking and wobbling around. The rest of the half-shaft joints, both left and right, look OK. They might be worn, but they're not a major source of play. Unfortunately the wobbly U-join…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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So the rust monster has claimed another part of my datsun 260Z. I have rebuilt the engine completly minus one crucial part, the oil pan is shot! I was wondering if anyone knew where to get a good new/used one for fairly cheap. Ive put a lot of money into the engine so Im kinda looking for a less expensive oil pan. Thanks!
Last reply by texasz,
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Mark Maras
