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ea6driver

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ea6driver last won the day on February 17

ea6driver had the most liked content!

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About ea6driver

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Occupation
    Airline Pilot

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280Z. Second owner (purchased in 1980). Original color #510 Sky Blue Metallic. Exterior repainted light metallic blue. Near perfect original interior (typical crack in the dash). Rear end completely restored (poly bushings, suspension repainted, brakes/fuel/emissions lines restored). Currently restoring engine & front suspension (12/2019).

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-463308

Recent Profile Visitors

1,327 profile views
  1. Wow! Thank you for that not so obvious Z emissions systems lesson Captain Obvious! I always try to do some research before posting a question on the forum, but I admit, there wasn't a chance I was gonna discover that answer. I'm just glad you didn't find that diagram in the 78Z FSM! Until your response this morning I didn't think we were gonna get a likely answer to this orifice mystery...My hat's off to you sir!
  2. Yeah...after blowing and sucking on both ends...it seems like it's just a "restrictor" because I encountered the same amount of resistance no matter what....either that or, if it is some kind of check valve, then it's broken.
  3. It's a 78. I purchased it in 1980 from the original owner so I'm pretty sure it's the original factory hose. Thanks for that insight.
  4. I was reinstalling all the hoses leading to/from my carbon vapor canister today and I noticed something interesting. The short hose that connects to the steel line leading back to the fuel tank isn't simply a rubber hose. In the attached photo, i'm referring to the rubber hose connected to the canister port labelled by a blue dot (Fuel Tank). As I was about to reinstall it I thought I'd blow into it just to make sure that it wasn't clogged and, surprisingly, I felt resistance that seemed like a clog. Upon further investigation, I discovered that there is an obstruction in the hose that seems purposeful. This obstruction seems to be metallic and has a small hole through the center of it (see photo of hose end). I couldn't find any reference as to the purpose of this hose restriction anywhere. Could anyone shed some light on exactly what this is? What is it called? What is its purpose? Sorry if Fuel Injection isn't the best place to post this question...It was either here or Engine/Drivetrain. Thanks!
  5. Hi Dmuzial, I have a 78Z manual, and had this same problem about a year and a half ago....actually started a thread in the Engine and Drivetrain section since I originally ran across the problem when installing the diff...you can see it here: Lots of good responses to my questions by the forum members. Bottom line was that some of the drawings in the FSM were copied from previous year models and are incorrect. Like you, I initially installed the bar with the bushing cylinders aft of the mustache bar (per the FSM diagram) only to discover that I couldn't get the forward diff mount to line up correctly. It all worked out good once I reversed the bar so that the bushing cylinders were forward. Love this forum...never fails to get you back on track with whatever Z problem you're tackling at the moment!
  6. Thank you for that addition to this puzzle. So...it seems as if that collar was installed the same way on both yours and mine. Perhaps we have a trend going here. I don't understand the reasoning behind this installation option, but, unless I hear differently from another member, I will likely go with this option!
  7. Hmmm...hadn't thought about that. Hoping another forum member can shed some additional light on this....Cause we now have 3 possible installation possibilities for this mysterious little metal collar!
  8. Here's the diagram for the '78...unfortunately it doesn't show the little metal collar either...
  9. Very interesting...that parts diagram says it's applicable up to Nov '74.....mine is a 78 and it does appear that there are differences...I'm going to try and find a similar parts diagram for the 78 year model and see if that definitively answers the question. Thank you.
  10. KMS 2411Z...at least that's the model number my 78Z had installed original from the factory.
  11. No...look at the first picture I posted above. In the photo you can see the new rubber boot, and just to the left of it you can see a small metal "collar" that slips over the shaft/shank after removing the plastic ball piece. That is a replacement collar that came with the replacement rubber boot. Also, below that, you can see the original "collar" on the shaft as it was removed from the car. This collar fits loosely over the shaft/shank and can easily slide up/down the shaft. During installation, the collar can either be positioned outside the boot (so that it sits next to the plastic ball) or inside the boot. The small end of the boot looks like it was designed so that the small metal collar would fit perfectly inside the end of it. I was unsure which installation option is correct. Hope this makes sense.
  12. And the little metal collar? Here's a pic I took before disassembling everything...in this pic it looks like that metal collar is positioned between the ball joint and the rubber boot...but the shape of the small end of the rubber boot would suggest that the metal collar is supposed to be inside the rubber boot. Given the age of the car and the possibility that this linkage was previously disassembled sometime in the past, I'm not convinced that the collar's position in the pic is necessarily accurate. Thanks!
  13. Two questions...1) How do I install this new/replacement accelerator rubber boot onto the linkage without breaking it? And 2) does the metal "collar" that is on the shaft go inside the boot or outside the boot? As you can see there is an adjusting nut at the gas pedal end of the shaft, but I've tried to loosen it without success...was afraid if I kept wrenching on it something was going to break...Also, both ends with the "cups" are plastic, and I'm sure quite brittle and unforgiving at this stage in their lives. It looks like clearly I need to remove one "cup" end to get the boot on because the small end of the rubber boot doesn't look like there is any way for it to stretch over the cups. Do the "cups" screw off? Or are they simply pressed on? I figured surely one of you has tackled this job before and can give me some good advice here. Thanks!
  14. Thanks! I was kinda thinking about opening up the case to investigate the cause of the problem...I mean, what do i have to lose? Is this something that can be easily purchased and replaced by a motivated amateur z clock repair man?
  15. So I hooked up the clock to my 12V car battery as described above...and sure enough, the clock seemed to operate normally, at least for a while. Every time the minute hand would rotate around to approximately the six o'clock position it would "stick" in position. I could adjust the minute hand using the center "set" knob, and it would begin operation normally again...at least until it rotated around to that same position again. It felt as if there was something slightly obstructing the minute hand at that position of its travel. Anyway, the point being that there appeared to be no problem powering the clock up by connecting it directly to the car battery.
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