ea6driver

Members
  • Content Count

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About ea6driver

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Occupation
    Airline Pilot

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280Z. Second owner (purchased in 1980). Original color #510 Sky Blue Metallic. Exterior repainted light metallic blue. Near perfect original interior (typical crack in the dash). Rear end completely restored (poly bushings, suspension repainted, brakes/fuel/emissions lines restored). Currently restoring engine & front suspension (12/2019).

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-463308

Recent Profile Visitors

1,049 profile views
  1. Hey Don....wow...Woodinville....just down the road from Oak Harbor. Thanks for the offer...I'll keep you in mind. I have a whole yard shed filled with Z car spare parts (much to my wife's chagrin) and I believe I'll be able to find what I need among them. But I do look forward to meeting a fellow local classic z car enthusiast one day soon. Perhaps during the warm summertime (and after I get my car put back together!)
  2. Thank you for that info....I suspected as much, just didn't know with certainty. I searched this site (and other sites as well) for photos showing this heater hose/clamps and didn't see any pics posted with this particular type clamp. Although possible, I'm guessing it is highly unlikely that this clamp was used only on the 78 year model and only on that one hose. Unless someone else chimes in with more info, I will just plan on replacing the hose with the clamps grannyknot mentioned in his post.
  3. Today I removed the two heater hoses as part of my ongoing effort to restore/refresh the engine compartment. The shorter heater hose that connects from the aft cylinder head elbow fitting up into the firewall was secured with two clamps that are different than any other clamps on my car. I've attached a photo of one of them (the other one is identical to this). I was wondering if these are original or aftermarket/replacements. If they aren't original to this application, then which ones are? The longer heater hose was attached with the standard datsun phillips head screw-on clamps that are found elsewhere all over the car. 1978 280Z. Thanks!
  4. I appreciate those helpful responses...for the most part, AC is a luxury up here in the Pac NW. But it would certainly be nice to get this fixed if reasonably possible. I'll let you know what I discover.
  5. I had just removed my AFM a few days ago (to facilitate other maintenance) and there weren't any rubber grommets installed on the mounting bracket screws. According to the diagram in the Car Parts Manual, there should be 6 total grommets (3 for the screws that screw in a downward direction, and another 3 that are for the screws that screw in from the bottom of the bracket upward). My car is a 78, and from the diagram it looks like all Zs had this configuration from 02/76 through the end of the 78s. The rubber grommet part numbers are: 22683-N4201 (3) 22684-N4201 (3) And, of course, these parts are NLA for purchase (according to courtesy nissan). Would one of you be willing to post a photo of one or both of these grommets (removed from the bracket) showing enough detail that would allow me find a suitable substitute grommet(s)? BTW, there was a ground wire attached to 2 of the screws on the bracket, but with the grommets absent, I don't see how it served any useful purpose.
  6. So this is the view of the rear side of my AC condenser I saw after removing my radiator. In case you can't see it clearly in the attached photo, a significant area of the rear surface of the condenser (mainly lower/left side) looks darker/stained/wetter than the rest of the condenser. The system has leaked out almost all of the r12 refrigerant. What would you guess the problem is, and, more importantly, what is the fix/repair?
  7. Just ordered a couple aerosol cans of the #510 "Sky Blue Metallic" from them. Thanks for the link!
  8. I'm currently doing a refresh of my engine compartment. The original paint code number of the car is 510. And the engine compartment has never been repainted (still has this original color #510). There are areas inside the engine compartment that need some touching up/light rust repair, and I'm wondering what would be the best/easiest way to match this light blue color. It would be nice if I could find a current rattle can brand that comes close to this original color. Does anyone have any ideas/advice on how I might do this?
  9. So I just thought I'd report back on how it all worked out. As suggested, I removed the valve cover and poured fresh oil all over the cam shaft/rockers. Replaced the cover and topped off the oil/installed new oil filter. Next, I filled up the tank with 15 gallons of fresh ethanol-free gas. Even with a full fuel tank the fuel level still wasn't high enough to allow fuel to flow to the electric fuel pump inlet. So I removed the supply line from the fuel pump inlet and, using a cheap siphon pump, pumped the siphon bulb until fuel flowed to the inlet. Reattached fuel inlet hose to pump. Next I removed the fuel hose from the fuel manifold inlet pipe (just downstream from the fuel filter) and stuck the hose end into a plastic bottle, disconnected the spade connector mentioned above from the starter solenoid and turned the ignition key to start to run the fuel pump long enough to nearly fill the plastic bottle with fresh fuel. Reconnected fuel hose to fuel manifold pipe. Reconnected starter solenoid spade connector. Turned the ignition key to start and engine cranked for about 5-10 seconds before starting up. What a great feeling. Took her down from the jack stands today and drove her down the island for the first time in over a year! Thanks again for all the good advice.
  10. Thanks for the clarification and the photo. All great tips. My comment about that being "the large negative wire from the battery" makes me feel like Homer Simpson...DOH!! Anyway, I think I've got it now. Again, appreciate the advice.
  11. Thanks for that tip about running the fuel pump without cranking the engine in the '78Z. Just to be clear...when you say "remove the spade terminal from the starter"....do you mean removing the spade connector from the larger/fatter wire in the photo above? Isn't that the large negative wire from the battery?
  12. Thanks....I'll do all that. Your response leads me to believe that pumping fuel from the tank through empty lines/fuel pump to the engine isn't an issue. That was my initial concern. The car ran fine before I started the restoration work so I don't have any reason to believe there will be any problems.
  13. My 78Z has spent the last year on jack stands while I restored the suspension. I've now got it all put back together and am finally ready to get it running. I drained the fuel tank before starting the project. My question is what, if anything, do I need to do to get it running again? Specifically, I was wondering if just refilling the fuel tank with fresh gas and cranking the engine until it starts is OK. I am assuming that there is currently no fuel in any of the fuel supply lines running from the tank all the way up to the engine. Is priming of the fuel pump necessary?
  14. OK...I got the pin installed. I think the key to this task is first to get the cog housing solidly fixed so that it doesn't move any at all when you're trying to drive in the roll pin. I built a "jig" from a couple scraps of wood and this worked nicely. I also figured out a way to get the housing solidly fixed into a vice so that it wouldn't move while driving in the roll pin. Also, to get the roll pin started, I filed one end of it down enough so that the pin started into the hole enough to make the first few taps with the hammer easy. Thanks again for the advice....now on to the next problem!
  15. Thanks for all the good advice. Time to get to work on it. I'll let you know how it went/what worked for me when I'm done.