Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About ea6driver

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Occupation
    Airline Pilot

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned

Recent Profile Visitors

926 profile views
  1. OK...I got the pin installed. I think the key to this task is first to get the cog housing solidly fixed so that it doesn't move any at all when you're trying to drive in the roll pin. I built a "jig" from a couple scraps of wood and this worked nicely. I also figured out a way to get the housing solidly fixed into a vice so that it wouldn't move while driving in the roll pin. Also, to get the roll pin started, I filed one end of it down enough so that the pin started into the hole enough to make the first few taps with the hammer easy. Thanks again for the advice....now on to the next problem!
  2. Thanks for all the good advice. Time to get to work on it. I'll let you know how it went/what worked for me when I'm done.
  3. I would like some advice on how to install the new roll pin into the speedometer cog housing. I pulled the old pin out with pliers and vice grips, but that method "boogerd up" the pin pretty badly. The new roll pin (which is the correct Nissan replacement part) seems slightly larger in diameter than the hole in the housing. I'm guessing this is the way it is designed to be. Because the housing is oddly shaped and made from soft metal (aluminum?) I'm hesitant to clamp it too tightly in a vice. So, practically speaking, what is the easiest way to drive this new pin into the housing without damaging the pin or the housing?
  4. I appreciate the suggestion. I think I'm going to just have to keep this rubber grommet piece in mind as I continue the restoration/reassembly process. Apparently it's not really a very important part. Hopefully one day in the not too distant future I'll run across the perfect substitute part while looking through an auto parts or hardware store. Sometimes you just have to use a little ingenuity/creativity when looking for replacement parts on a 40+ year old car.
  5. Excellent advice! I disconnected the linkage from the cable up in the transmission tunnel and the cable easily slid into the "jackets" at the wheel ends after that. Tomorrow I'll try to get it all adjusted properly. Thank you all for the help.
  6. That's a good point. During the restoration process i did completely disassemble the the entire hand brake linkage. I guess I could have reassembled the linkage in a way that is putting tension on the cable, causing it to be so tight at the ends. I'll look at that tomorrow. Fortunately I haven't re installed the driveshaft yet so it should still be easy to access.
  7. The hand brake handle/lever is down. The spring in the photo holds pressure (tension) on the end of the cable. The spring needs to be compressed to allow a gap for the bracket to fit in the area where the black line is in the photo. It's a stiff spring. As usual, taking it apart was much easier than putting it back together.
  8. For the life of me ,I can't figure an easy way to re attach this handbrake hardware back onto the end of the cable. The spring tension is too much to compress with my hands. I'm thinking i might need a special tool to compress the spring enough to install the end piece... I'm looking for some advice.
  9. Thanks for that idea. Just to be clear, the rubber part I'm trying to replace is not the rectangular piece. It's the cylindrical piece that runs through the hole in the rectangular piece. This piece is only a couple inches long and slides over the actual handbrake cable. I'm thinking it's there to prevent the cable from sliding fore/aft in the rectangular hanger hole.
  10. I'm looking to replace the original rubber "grommets" that encircled the handbrake cable where the handbrake cable runs through the rubber "hangers". I've attached a couple of photos to help show the rubber part I'm looking for. Anybody have any good ideas on a replacement part for this?
  11. Thanks so much gentlemen...I do have the white/19 tooth speedo gear (had not thought about needing to install that with the OE tranny/3.90 diff combo). Tire/wheel combo is aftermarket, but same overall diameter as OE. Glad to find out that the Z will at least be drivable until I can get it back up on the jack stands in a few months. I appreciate all the comments.
  12. I do have the correct (white) speedo gear to install in the replacement ZX 5 speed tranny, but the original gear is still in the OE tranny. Are you saying to go ahead and swap in the white gear in the OE tranny so the speedometer will be accurate?
  13. 78 280Z. Factory 4 speed. Car has been on jack stands in my garage for the last year while I've been restoring the underside. Pretty much have finished up the rear end, but my wife really wants me to get it out of the garage for a while this summer before I can finish up the front end. The restoration plan includes swapping out the OE 3.545 diff/4 speed tranny with a 3.90 diff/5 speed tranny from an 83 ZX. I've already installed the 3.90 diff. Would really like to delay installing the replacement tranny for a few months. My question is will the car be drivable with the 3.90 diff and the OE 4 speed tranny? I realize this combo won't be optimum, but by "drivable" I simply mean acceptable for a short term until I can get it back up on the jack stands after summer. I'd only be driving the car easy and on nice days....60 mph max. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  14. Success...a "rat" file, some light lube and about 30 minutes of work and now the spindle pin passes right through by hand. And I think it was a combination of left over corrosion and at least a couple small burrs because a close inspection of the spindle pin after initially tapping it through with a rubber hammer did reveal a couple light scorch marks along its horizontal axis. But I couldn't see anything visually when looking through the hole with a light. Anyway...all is good now with this problem. On to the next...and thanks for all the good advice!
  15. thanks zed. all good advice. i realize that "tight" is good...at least to a degree. right now i'm concerned that the fit is so tight that, once the holes in the control arm "ears" are aligned with the strut hole and the pin is pushed into place that it would be extremely difficult to rotate the pin any at all if necessary to align the notch in the spindle pin with the lock pin. Especially since, at that point, the only part of the spindle pin available to work with is the threaded ends. I'm off to the garage to pull out the rat file and some sandpaper.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.