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About ea6driver

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    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Occupation
    Airline Pilot

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  1. So I just thought I'd report back on how it all worked out. As suggested, I removed the valve cover and poured fresh oil all over the cam shaft/rockers. Replaced the cover and topped off the oil/installed new oil filter. Next, I filled up the tank with 15 gallons of fresh ethanol-free gas. Even with a full fuel tank the fuel level still wasn't high enough to allow fuel to flow to the electric fuel pump inlet. So I removed the supply line from the fuel pump inlet and, using a cheap siphon pump, pumped the siphon bulb until fuel flowed to the inlet. Reattached fuel inlet hose to pump. Next I removed the fuel hose from the fuel manifold inlet pipe (just downstream from the fuel filter) and stuck the hose end into a plastic bottle, disconnected the spade connector mentioned above from the starter solenoid and turned the ignition key to start to run the fuel pump long enough to nearly fill the plastic bottle with fresh fuel. Reconnected fuel hose to fuel manifold pipe. Reconnected starter solenoid spade connector. Turned the ignition key to start and engine cranked for about 5-10 seconds before starting up. What a great feeling. Took her down from the jack stands today and drove her down the island for the first time in over a year! Thanks again for all the good advice.
  2. Thanks for the clarification and the photo. All great tips. My comment about that being "the large negative wire from the battery" makes me feel like Homer Simpson...DOH!! Anyway, I think I've got it now. Again, appreciate the advice.
  3. Thanks for that tip about running the fuel pump without cranking the engine in the '78Z. Just to be clear...when you say "remove the spade terminal from the starter"....do you mean removing the spade connector from the larger/fatter wire in the photo above? Isn't that the large negative wire from the battery?
  4. Thanks....I'll do all that. Your response leads me to believe that pumping fuel from the tank through empty lines/fuel pump to the engine isn't an issue. That was my initial concern. The car ran fine before I started the restoration work so I don't have any reason to believe there will be any problems.
  5. My 78Z has spent the last year on jack stands while I restored the suspension. I've now got it all put back together and am finally ready to get it running. I drained the fuel tank before starting the project. My question is what, if anything, do I need to do to get it running again? Specifically, I was wondering if just refilling the fuel tank with fresh gas and cranking the engine until it starts is OK. I am assuming that there is currently no fuel in any of the fuel supply lines running from the tank all the way up to the engine. Is priming of the fuel pump necessary?
  6. OK...I got the pin installed. I think the key to this task is first to get the cog housing solidly fixed so that it doesn't move any at all when you're trying to drive in the roll pin. I built a "jig" from a couple scraps of wood and this worked nicely. I also figured out a way to get the housing solidly fixed into a vice so that it wouldn't move while driving in the roll pin. Also, to get the roll pin started, I filed one end of it down enough so that the pin started into the hole enough to make the first few taps with the hammer easy. Thanks again for the advice....now on to the next problem!
  7. Thanks for all the good advice. Time to get to work on it. I'll let you know how it went/what worked for me when I'm done.
  8. I would like some advice on how to install the new roll pin into the speedometer cog housing. I pulled the old pin out with pliers and vice grips, but that method "boogerd up" the pin pretty badly. The new roll pin (which is the correct Nissan replacement part) seems slightly larger in diameter than the hole in the housing. I'm guessing this is the way it is designed to be. Because the housing is oddly shaped and made from soft metal (aluminum?) I'm hesitant to clamp it too tightly in a vice. So, practically speaking, what is the easiest way to drive this new pin into the housing without damaging the pin or the housing?
  9. I appreciate the suggestion. I think I'm going to just have to keep this rubber grommet piece in mind as I continue the restoration/reassembly process. Apparently it's not really a very important part. Hopefully one day in the not too distant future I'll run across the perfect substitute part while looking through an auto parts or hardware store. Sometimes you just have to use a little ingenuity/creativity when looking for replacement parts on a 40+ year old car.
  10. Excellent advice! I disconnected the linkage from the cable up in the transmission tunnel and the cable easily slid into the "jackets" at the wheel ends after that. Tomorrow I'll try to get it all adjusted properly. Thank you all for the help.
  11. That's a good point. During the restoration process i did completely disassemble the the entire hand brake linkage. I guess I could have reassembled the linkage in a way that is putting tension on the cable, causing it to be so tight at the ends. I'll look at that tomorrow. Fortunately I haven't re installed the driveshaft yet so it should still be easy to access.
  12. The hand brake handle/lever is down. The spring in the photo holds pressure (tension) on the end of the cable. The spring needs to be compressed to allow a gap for the bracket to fit in the area where the black line is in the photo. It's a stiff spring. As usual, taking it apart was much easier than putting it back together.
  13. For the life of me ,I can't figure an easy way to re attach this handbrake hardware back onto the end of the cable. The spring tension is too much to compress with my hands. I'm thinking i might need a special tool to compress the spring enough to install the end piece... I'm looking for some advice.
  14. Thanks for that idea. Just to be clear, the rubber part I'm trying to replace is not the rectangular piece. It's the cylindrical piece that runs through the hole in the rectangular piece. This piece is only a couple inches long and slides over the actual handbrake cable. I'm thinking it's there to prevent the cable from sliding fore/aft in the rectangular hanger hole.
  15. I'm looking to replace the original rubber "grommets" that encircled the handbrake cable where the handbrake cable runs through the rubber "hangers". I've attached a couple of photos to help show the rubber part I'm looking for. Anybody have any good ideas on a replacement part for this?