ea6driver

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ea6driver last won the day on February 17

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About ea6driver

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    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Occupation
    Airline Pilot

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280Z. Second owner (purchased in 1980). Original color #510 Sky Blue Metallic. Exterior repainted light metallic blue. Near perfect original interior (typical crack in the dash). Rear end completely restored (poly bushings, suspension repainted, brakes/fuel/emissions lines restored). Currently restoring engine & front suspension (12/2019).

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-463308

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Well...I have no idea if I'll ever get it back in again...but it's out! And like gwri8 said...it was just "magical". I was just twisting, tugging cussing, gripping with pliers and swearing that there was simply no way this was gonna work....when, all of a sudden, it just slipped free. So, I can independently verify that the heat shield is removable with the EGR tube in place. Even with the EGR tube heat shield still in place. Thanks to all...moving along to the next puzzle...
  2. sorry...should have mentioned that not just the hose, but also the pcv valve itself is removed. Turns out that on the 78 year model, the egr pipe itself has its own heat shield...of course, the screws that secure the egr pipe heat shield to the egr pipe are severely corroded. Imagine that. So i'm working on removing that heat shield now. It looks as though, once removed, that there will be some more wiggle room.
  3. All the bolts securing the heat shield are definitely removed...I can easily slide the heat shield fore/aft & side/side enough to tell that all the bolts are out. It's just that, because the shield is somewhat "preformed" (i.e., three dimensional, not completely flat), it is easily wedged by the intake runners and the EGR tube. Still working on it.
  4. Thanks for all those comments/pieces of advice. I've completely remove the "vertical" heat shield that's bolted to the bottom of the larger "horizontal" heat shield...that one was no problem. Took some doing, but finally got all the bolts off that secure the "horizontal" heat shield to the bottom of the intake manifold. The PCV valve hose has been removed. In the photo above that siteunseen posted, his EGR tube has been removed...didn't know if he meant to imply that he was able to slide the heat shield out before or after that tube had been removed. Gwri8 seems to recall that it will come out with the EGR tube still installed, but that it only comes out one way...so with that in mind I'll head back out to the garage and wrestle with it some more. Will report back.
  5. I've successfully removed all the bolts securing this heat shield to the underside of the intake manifold, but it seems as though the EGR pipe (the pipe that is connected between the intake and exhaust manifolds) is blocking the heat shield from being able to be removed from the engine. I tried for several minutes trying to wiggle the heat shield out, but with no luck. The next logical step would be to remove the EGR pipe to get it out of the way, but everything I've read on this forum indicates that loosening the bolts that secure the EGR pipe is damn near impossible. Am I missing any trick to getting the heat shield out with the EGR pipe still installed?
  6. So...half the job is done. I was able to completely ream out the hose with a wire brush on an extension. Got most everything out from inside I think. I'm sure it's 100% functional again. Now to repaint it Hi Temp Silver, as it originally was. The more I inspect this hose, the more I believe it is factory original...primarily because of the preformed bends and the unique way one end of it is formed where it attaches to the crankcase pipe. You can clearly see where it was manufactured with a pronounced expansion at that end to accommodate the larger opening of that fitting. Thanks for all the advice....once again!
  7. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll definitely have to soak the inside of the hose good with some sort of degreaser/solvent before trying to ream it out with some sort of bottle brush. A lot of the crud in there is hard and caked on...I'd be surprised if anything with plastic bristles is going to hack it...but, we'll see...I'll report back once the job is completed!
  8. Thanks Zed...so...I guess I'll repaint it silver...Hi Temp Silver probably...as for reaming it out with a screwdriver, I'll give it a try, but due to the 90 degree bends at both ends, and the relative brittleness of the 40+ year old hose (and the fact that replacement hoses from nissan are NLA) I'm not 100 percent confident that that will be effective...Hoping I can think of a way to ream it out with something more flexible than a screwdriver.
  9. Thanks for that....then it seems that the earlier Z's may be different than mine (78). My PCV valve screws in on the bottom of the intake manifold and is connected directly to the crankcase via the hose I'm referencing...hopefully this link will show what I'm talking about... https://whiteheadperformance.com/gallery/datsun-l-series-engines/#
  10. I know that there is supposed to be a flame arrestor inside the hose that's connected to the valve cover...but hadn't heard that there was one in the PCV valve hose....is it possible that you're confusing the two (or that I'm not describing the hose I'm talking about clearly enough)?
  11. Was this hose originally painted from the factory? I removed this hose recently as part of an overall engine "clean up" project and noticed that it appeared to have been painted a silver color. Well, thinking that it must have been painted that way by a prior owner, I dutifully removed all the paint with a solvent. Then, while perusing numerous L28 engine photos posted online, I found several that displayed this hose seemingly painted a "silvery" color... Just wondering if it was originally painted from the factory (and why). Thoughts? Also...it appears to be somewhat "clogged up" with "gunk"....how would you recommend a thorough cleaning of it?
  12. Mart, Check out this link. It gives the paint color codes for the the 1979 ZXs https://zcarguide.com/datsun-nissan-280zx-colors/
  13. Just wanted to post a quick followup on the aerosol paint I purchased from the link posted above (Automotivetouchup.com). I've now had a chance to refresh a few panels in my engine bay and frame rails, and I just wanted to report that the color match was excellent. It was nearly a perfect match to the original color (#510 Sky Blue Metallic). I couldn't be happier. I'm sure that trying to match the color on an exterior panel would be considerably more challenging, but for the engine bay it was a very acceptable solution. Thank you "S30Driver" for the recommendation!
  14. Hey Don....wow...Woodinville....just down the road from Oak Harbor. Thanks for the offer...I'll keep you in mind. I have a whole yard shed filled with Z car spare parts (much to my wife's chagrin) and I believe I'll be able to find what I need among them. But I do look forward to meeting a fellow local classic z car enthusiast one day soon. Perhaps during the warm summertime (and after I get my car put back together!)
  15. Thank you for that info....I suspected as much, just didn't know with certainty. I searched this site (and other sites as well) for photos showing this heater hose/clamps and didn't see any pics posted with this particular type clamp. Although possible, I'm guessing it is highly unlikely that this clamp was used only on the 78 year model and only on that one hose. Unless someone else chimes in with more info, I will just plan on replacing the hose with the clamps grannyknot mentioned in his post.