Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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Ok I searched here first to see if some had posted these already but found nothing. I'm looking for the factory motor specs, you know displacement, bore, stroke, cam lift things like that. I have a built L24 motor and was trying to figure out the differences in motor specs. Thanks a lot.
Last reply by OniZ, -
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I have a 78 280z stock in all aspects. I am puting on headers amd am thinking about replacing the long block with a rebuilt long block. My research to date scares me with the fly by night engine rebuild houses that are on the market. DOes anyone have a recommendation on a good house to buy a long block?
Last reply by joker72z, -
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I am weighing different options on a differential mount replacement. Someone (you know who you are, thanks again btw) sent me a .jpg on one, Ive attempted to contact a member over at Hybrid on a Ron Tyler type but have not heard back from him in a week. I am just doing some searching and ran across this mount on Ebay. Anyone have any knowledge of this type or have an opinion on this? Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-240z-280z-Billet-solid-differential-mount_W0QQitemZ260486423000QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091005?IMSfp=TL0910051810005r8350 Just found another one here... http://www.newoldstockmotorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=58
Last reply by Darrel, -
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I was having a problem with my 72 Z hesitating and backfiring when warm, and no top end HP. I did a complete tune up, valves, points, plugs, carbs, fuel filter, and still had the problem. I never would have thought of it, but one of my friends suggested the coil was bad, and sure enough, replacing the coil fixed the issue. I wish I would have thought of that first. DT
Last reply by trout_hound, -
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My manual indicates that I need to check the gap between my reluctor and piack-ups (I have duel) ... yet it does not explain how. How do you align the reluctor tips to the pickup tip to measure the gap?
Last reply by rskdsk, -
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Hello all. I'm seeing a small amount of coolant seeping at the center of the block / head mating point on the oil filter side. The amount is minimal, but it is there. Please advise me - should I go through the torquing sequence for the head and see if this eliminates the seeping? Or do I need to remove the head and install a new head gasket? Any other suggestions on how to address this? Thanks, Gary S.
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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Hey guys, I was thinking about doing a LS1 swap into my Z and I've been doing some research about the RB26 but want at least 400-500 hp but not shure that this thing can handle it see my pic. album it has a 944 sun roof let me know what you think. thanks G
Last reply by Arne, -
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Question, I believe I have the tools necessary to do the head gasket but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it right. I have done a few things to my car like rebuilding the front end, brakes, etc. I have never done any major engine work and don't want to mess it up so it costs me more to correct than if I had someone do it for me. If I do have it done in a shop, what should the cost be, just to replace the head gasket. If the head needs work I know that would be additional. It is as 72 with an e88 head. I have read the threads on how to go about doing it but no one really talks about the dificulty of the job. I'm concerned about broken bolts, studs and the like.
Last reply by Mn_Z_Man, -
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Hi everyone .. I have a small leak that causes a nusance drip at my Speedo cable housing attached to my transmission. So before it gets worse and I store the car for winter - I'm planning to replace both the small internal and larger outer O-Rings. I ordered them from MSA. I have an 82-83 280zx 5sp manual transmission with my '73 speedo cable. Both O-Rings are commom from '70 thru '86 for manual transmissions, so I assume no serious issue with seating the O-rings properly. I have read thru this link and understand what to look for in the O-ring replacement of the pinion: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31338&highlight=Speedometer+Cable+Leak …
Last reply by moritz55, -
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First I want to say thanks to Arne for posting this picture. Second, I am about to install my new ZTherapy carbs and I am currently refurbishing my air box to put back on. I need the hose that goes from the valve cover to air box. Mine is not in great shape. I am currently running one of those little K&N breathers, but would rather run the proper hose. Anybody know where to get one.
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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The car is a 1974 260z, the problem is that when I turn the key to start the car I hear "click" ... I do this 4 or 5 more times and eventually the starter enguages and it start. The battery is new and if I put power directly to the starter wire, it turn over without any problems.
Last reply by beezee, -
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Went on a 17 mile short drive on the '70 240 today and after my first stop it wouldn't start. It clicked when the ignition is turned on. All connection to and from the battery & ground is tight and the battery is fully charged (green light on the trickle charge before unhooking it for the drive). When the ignition is turned and it kept clicking, smoke started to emit from the solenoid. Unsure if it is a bad solenoid or starter. Should I replace both the solenoid and starter or just the solenoid? The solenoid alone costs $89 @ MSA and a rebuild starter is around $70. I saw several posts about where places that may have the starter in stock but none of the auto…
Last reply by We Bad,
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