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JohnnyP

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About JohnnyP

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    Greenfield, NH

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  1. I did replace the stock fuel pump with an aftermarket Airtex pump, so I believe it does not have the pressure cutoff switch inside. Thanks for the tips! I have a PDF version of the FSM so I'll look through it and start the troubleshooting! Thanks a ton guys/girls John
  2. Is there a Haynes manual or E.F.I troubleshoot for the CTS?
  3. I've been searching a bit and can't figure out how to test that temp sender unit (check its signal path). Is there a specific test to run? For a pic of the temperature switch that I mentioned is broken check the link! Post #4 is exactly the switch that broke on my thermo housing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35873&highlight=thermostat+housing Thanks again all, John
  4. Is the rear hatch "datsun script" still available?
  5. Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention that the wires, cap, and rotor were all changed out when I did the plugs, probably a few weeks ago. And they were checked recently as well. I inspected the CTS, and it is connected as it should be. I am going to trace its signal path back to the ECU as suggested, next. However, I did find that one of the connectors on the thermostat housing, with two wires (ground & bullet plug), where both wires are not attached to the actual part that is screwed in to the therm housing. The ground wire is grounded, and the bullet plug is plugged in, but neither are actually still physically connected to the that plug thats on the thermostat housing (broke loose from their solder). I don't know what this part is called exactly, its not the temp sensor or temp sender, that much I know. Could this be adding to the problem? By the way, Cygnusx1…huge Rush fan!
  6. 76' 280z...I've been having a problem with lack of power/stumble/hesitation on acceleration. I've checked and adjusted; TPS, timing, vacuum advance, vacuum lines/hoses, clean spark to all plugs (new NGK's), new fuel pump (replaced for the sake of replacing it, not just to throw money at the problem!), flushed fuel lines, new fuel/oil filter, oil change, I checked and rechecked fuel pressure at the fuel rail…I real don't know what else to go through… The car was running yesterday, I wake up this morning and try to start it..nothing! It cranks and sounds strong like it is JUST about to turn over, but it never gets that far. So I tried to crank it a few more times. On the third go, fuel starts spurting out of the #5 injector, right out of the top of the hose where the injector hose meets the fuel rail..Would I be correct in assuming that this means fuel is getting all the way to the injectors but isn't passing through? And this release of fuel through the hose is a symptom of a pressure build up in the fuel rail? Maybe a bad fuel injector pressure regulator? I'm confused on this one…Any help/suggestions/advice would really help me out! Thanks in advance to anyone. John
  7. Thanks for all the info guys. Ok so I'm getting that its not a vacuum advance issue. What else could be causing it this problem? John
  8. I have a '76 280z. It starts up and runs, but I've been having a problem I can't narrow down. Wen the car is running and I press the accelerator, it lags for just a quick second. By lag, I mean, when the gas pedal is pressed, the engine looses a little power and slows down, than resumes as normal. The RPMs go down a little, and you can hear it in the way the engine runs, and feel it. This takes place in about 1-2 seconds. Also, at the same time, but randomly, there is a sort of a low popping sound. But it isn't very loud, it doesn't sound like backfiring. Bad gasket somewhere? This is what I've done to try and diagnose the problem: Oil change (Castrol 10W-30) new oil/air/fuel filter New fuel pump (it was bad anyways) New air/fuel hoses under the hood New NGK plugs, new wires, cap and rotor Correct timing per '76 FSM specs. Followed the EFI Troubleshooting in the '76 FSM (through the 35 pin connector) I tested the vacuum advance by removing the hose to the vacuum advance (…not the end connected to it) and pulled air through, but could not see the plate move. Do these symptoms fight for a bad vacuum advance? Anything to be offered is always very appreciated. Thanks everyone! John
  9. I'm looking for a pair of wiper arms for my 280 (1976)....without having to pay through the nose....I was also curious; is there a possibility of finding some universal wiper arms they have the auto parts store, that are the same, or are close to, the specifications of the stock wiper arms? In terms of length and all that. If anyone has any thoughts to offer, I'm all hears and would really appreciate it. John
  10. In NH, if a vehicle is 15 years or older, no title is needed for registration or inspection…but that is irrelevant, in this case, right? Seeing as after registering the car, and having it inspected, a title will be issued. What I do know is that when undergoing an inspection, they do not (from what I've seen) hunt down all the spots were the VIN should be on the car….But I am just speaking from what I've seen. The case might be different for an older car, I'm not sure, so I can't really say I guess… Thanks for all the info guys, I'm glad I caught this and put it up on here before going to get it registered. John
  11. Very interesting stuff! Thanks for that spread sheet, mgood. John
  12. So I have a car with the proper VIN stamped on the firewall, and its engine number matches? But it has a set of 72 240z plates (engine and door jamb), as well as the 240 VIN on the title? How does this get fixed...
  13. Yeah thats what I think…Which seems really odd..But oh well.
  14. The stamp above the brake booster says HLS30-297637…and then the VIN on the title says HLS30-65361…I'm confused? Does that means it IS in fact a 76 280z? And if so, someone changed the plates with that of a 72 240…?
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