Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,561 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.6k views
I am ready to lift my long block out of the car so that I can clean the engine compartment and put a new long block in. Just 2 bolts left to take off. How do I remove the oil dip stick tube and the metal oil breather tube that leads to the hose that connects to the PVC valve? My new long block does not come with these 2 items. Thanks
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
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- 13 replies
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i just got through a complete rebuild. i tried the first startup, and at first, it seemed like the car wasn't reacting to the key turning, other than the lights coming on. then i could hear a small clunking noise every time i turned the key, coming from under the dash near the fuse box. we ran a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns over like mad, but won't start up. any ideas? update: there is definitely fuel coming up at least as high as the fuel lines over the manifolds.
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 3 replies
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Hi all, I have just installed my overhauled engine in my 200Z( same as 280Z ). Initially the engine started and I got it to run to an exceptable level, idling smoothly. It does have a hesitation though when it is warm only when you press the accelerator. After a couple of times running I turned it off and it refuses to crank over with the ignition key turned to start. The problem I have is that the Exhaust temperature light has come on and my repair manual tells me that if this happens the catalytic converter hold relay would need to be reset before the starter would get power to turn the engine again. The manual show me where it (the hold relay) is, but it does not say …
Last reply by Z Babe, -
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I have a square port header that came with (not on) the '73 240 I just bought. The car has a N47 on a f54 block and a stock, smog manifold (not sure if its from the original L24 or the L28). My question is, can I mate up the square port mani with the round port (as I understand it) head, or would i be better off trying to barter the square port mani for a round port one? I've spent some time combing the archives but haven't found the specific answer-sorry for any redundancy, and thanks for any advice.
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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My 1973 240z (2.6L engine; no smog equip) initially starts and runs normally. It runs fine for 5-10 minutes then, for lack of a better description, the engine starts cutting out at about 65 mph (any gear). I can hear the carbs "sucking air", but it seems to be starving for fuel and/or spark. With the clutch depressed, it will rev to ~4,000 rpm and again cuts out. It gets progressively worse until pull off the freeway. Once I get off the freeway and drive on the side streets, it seems to work fine again so long as I dont get above ~45mph. Also, it then rev's all the way to redline as if nothing was wrong. I'd sure appreciate any suggestions before I go buying fuel pum…
Last reply by Curtis240Z, -
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this is a newly rebuilt engine with a rebuilt head bought off of ebay from datsun parts LLC (yeah, i know, big mistake). first the symptoms: when i start her up, she roars to life and seems to run smoothly for a minute or two. then suddenly the engine will start loping heavily and the whole thing will jerk rhythmically to the right. if revved, it smooths out a bit, but often backfires. my vacuum gauge needle jerks into "Late Valve Timing" every time the engine lopes. on the first few startups, the loping will worsen until the engine dies. once the car has been started several times, it will lope badly but stay running. here's a video (you'll need audio obviously): http:…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
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I want to build a NA motor for my 73 240z. Of course I am on a budget and not only that, I came from the Honda community with 13 years of building NA motor knowledge and experience. So I'm accustomed to fast natural aspirated Honda's. But old skool Datsun's is entirely new to me. I am seeking for suggestions on the best NA motor to build. Reading some stuff about the L28 blocks, sticking with the same Head and I don't know what else. Pros, please enlighten me and give me pro advice...thanks a million!!!
Last reply by YawnTee, -
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I just removed the smog stuff (pump, all the stuff on the balance tube, air galley and replace the exhaust manifold with headers) on a stock '70 S30 motor. Do I need to change any of the settings on the carb or timing after eliminating the smog stuff?
Last reply by zmadnez, -
- 15 replies
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Hi all, I had bookmarked a part number reference on the web, but it's down. I need to install a generic EGR valve on my '78 Z, but I have to fit it with an orifice washer corresponding to the OEM part number, which of course I can't find. So what's the OEM part number of an EGR valve for a '78 Z? Failing that, what's an alternative online reference to this one? http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/ Thanks so much to anyone who can look this up for me! Peace, Sarah
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Hey guys I have notice my oil gets dirty very quickly. I put in a new engine about 2500 miles ago. I knew i would have to change a couple of times but i thought i was through that. I changed it at about 250, then about 1000, and finally at about 2000. I wouldn't have changed it the third time but it was pretty dirty oil. Now again it is dirtier then ever. I am driving long distances so I can't risk it. Why would it be getting this dirty this fast? Just typical new engine break in. It was pretty tight when i first put it back together. Any thoughts appreciated. Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
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Ok, I'm searching for a source for my last major component for my engine rebuild and need to know where I can get a good set of 6 KA24E pistons from at a good price. Per Zhome.com the part number on this is 12101-40F10.
Last reply by texasz, -
Antifreeze 1 2
by JoelZ- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
I recently bought a 280Z and I am having a problem with the antifreeze/coolant. As I drive the car there is no issue with the temp or anything, but after shutting off the car, a few hours later there is antifreeze on the garage floor. When checking the radiator/reservoir, the radiator was not full to the top and there was just a little in the overflow container. I had the car to the mechanic today for state inspection and he said that he could not find any evidence of antifreeze leaking. I am wondering if it is coming through the overflow tube on the reservoir container? But why would this happen if the radiator was not even full and there was not much in the reservoir. I…
Last reply by Pomorza,
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