Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's and they have the long and short arms in the float bowl lids. Long in front carb, short in rear. I intend to set the floats on my bench top by setting the lid with its float and gasket on top of a small clear drinking glass with a 23mm scribe mark at the correct spot. Can anyone tell me whether the distance between the inside of the float bowl lid and the top of the gas is 23mm for both the front and the rear carbs on a 1972, or is the front 23mm and the rear something less ? I'm looking for a definitive answer for myself and all my 72 brethren
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Installed my 40 DCOE webers on the L24: Engine specifications 2.4 liters original motor/head/cam. Pertronix ignition Pertronix 1.5 Ohm coil MSA 6-2-1 headers adjusted idle mixture screws 1/2 turn out Adjusted all idle speed screws (without actuator rods hooked up) until they were about to uncover the first progression hole I had at my disposal, an wideband O2 gage installed into my header (innovative LM1) and a Air Sychronizer tool with weber air horn adapter (note, air horn adapter not shown) My factory out of the box settings for my 40 DCOE 151's were: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I am exploring Weber carbs and decided to try to simplify and present their functioning so that others can quickly grasp the basic concepts. To do this, I decided to make a fictional path of design that Mr.Weber, may or may not have traveled. I will provide further details for operation and maintenance in future posts, however this first post is a very simplified introduction. Blue The Ideal The simplest carburetor design that comes to mind would be a tube to flow air with a source of gasoline spraying in the middle of the tube. This would provide even distribution and symmetrical mixing at the highest velocity point of the tube. Approaching the Ideal: The M…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and misce…
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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Getting ready to start the car in the next week or so. I want to give the engine its best shot to fire up on the first dozen or so cranks. That said, what's the best way to prime the fuel system with my (new) mechanical pump? Can I remove the valve cover and actuate the pump lever by hand until fuel makes its way to the carbs? Or is there a better/easier way?
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
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The eastern seaboard is getting roasted lately, yesterday we hit 103 and I had parked the car in the sun after a spirited highway run. Like 15 min. later I got in started fine and off I went, I didn't make it a half a block when she started to go heavy lean so I ducked into a parking lot where it sputtered and died and I drifted into a shady spot and popped the hood. I got a gallon of water and cooled the carbs (twin su r/t's) fuel pump and hard lines. After a little coaxing I got her to start again and got myself to an air conditioned bar. Today its over 100 again, I did a short run to the gas station and the hardware store and back home. I parked in the sun for only 4 o…
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
I just purchased a fairly cheap set of SK Racing (not oer) carbs with 62mm horns. They look good and are all intact. My first idea was to put them to my Z but i need money now more than ever...I wonder what these are worth? Not many around and Made In Japan. That should say something about the quality.
Last reply by mildsquare, -
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The main jet, emulsion tube and Air corrector all must hold hands in order for the main circuit of the car to act as it should and when it should. Understanding the function of each part is critical to being able to tune the car. Blue has done so many great explanations of carbs, interiors, etc that I thought I would try to add to some of the core knowledge on the board. I am by no means an expert, but at times, I have been told I can explain things in a very easy to understand manner. So lets talk about the air corrector on Webers (or Mikuni's I guess as well). The air corrector allows air to come into contact with the fuel coming form the main jet and then enter t…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hello everyone, making great progress on the Z. Two weekends ago we got the car running. We used starter fluid to start her up and then light throttle to keep her on. The week after I buttoned up most of the fuel lines and a quick spray of the starter fluid we got the engine running again and maintained with throttle. We tried to start it again yesterday and it started up without starter fluid. Yesterday I tried again, no luck, tried starter fluid but stays on then dies even with throttle application. We are getting fuel at the carbs, I am assuming there is a blockage from the float bowl to the dampers. Also I know for sure the timing is off but I wanted to set the ti…
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
Hi, I'm a new Z owner. The car came with a Bob sharp and Holley 8007 390 cfm 4 barrel conversion. The carb secondary vacuum barrels were seized probably since he garage it 12 years ago. I tried a rebuilt kit but still had problems and I didn't trust it as a daily driver. So being new to carbs I asked around and was advice to just replace them. I purchase a new Holley 600 cfm 4 barrel carb thinking that more cfm is better. Now the car turns on with minimum effort and idles ok. Once the motor warms up I open the choke and it starts to idle high and goes up and down in idle from 800 to 1200 and seems as though its running rich. Ive revived all the way just to see where recli…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Ok I got a set of Triple Mikuni 44's recently see my gallery if you like. They came with what I believe is a short manifold so the runners look a little more bent than the long runners of a long manifold. I'm wondering what the opinion is on these manifolds and how the length affects performance. I would believe that the longer runners would increase the torque of the engine but the shorter runners look a little restrictive with the bend in them. However having read a few articles on porting and air turbulence this might be the aim of the short manifold. To slow the air just enough and reduce the turbulence before entering the combustion chamber. The manifold itself is a …
Last reply by byunique, -
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I'm getting ready to put the motor back in after a YEAR!! My dumb a** thought it would be a few months. Anyway, I'm getting the fuel supply worked out. Drained the year old gas from the tank, flushed the carbs then checked the float levels with clear tubing. Question? They're mounted level on a wall and the rear has a taller float valve (actually doubled up washers) so could you all look at my pictures and tell me what you think? The front is a little short but I think that may be because of the way they're mounted, level. I cut out the rotten fuel line under the battery too. Found a small pin hole. That stuff looks like zinc plated cop…
Last reply by Duffman,
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