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About 240260280z

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  • Member ID: 6852

  • Title: Dimwit #1

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240260280z last won the day on September 24 2016

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  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Triple-Weber-Carburetors-42DCOE-8-with-Intake-Manifold/265108008294?epid=1025136937&hash=item3db9ab2d66%3Ag%3AeFoAAOSw-oZgZTBW&LH_ItemCondition=4
  2. I looked on my HD and this is the corrected one.... not sure how the above happened? Looks like I had a typo in an old version. @Jughead
  3. A collection by Blue about his experience with the Z.
  4. Blue, Quick question. Do you have any substitute part number for the drive in pin that holds the round roller on a lower door hinge for a 280. The part I speak of holds the door open. 

     I hope I explained this OK.  Hope you can help me with this.   Thanks in advance,   JCB

  5. Mrs Claus was nice this year: http://www.restofab.com/Z-Silhouette-key-holder_p_15.html
  6. 3mm below the side wall is too high. Bumps and turns will cause spill into the main passage. 29mm down is the place to be. In practice, you can tune at any height given the adjustments available for every circuit however you will make some compromises in most cases. My experiments with the fuel ridiculously high at 25mm down (as championed by an internet sidedraft "expert") made me waste a lot of time. After I finally tried everything and then questioned the 25mm fuel height, I discovered 29mm was a good place to be. It was verified by expert Japanese tuners who made this fuel level tool that Grannyknot gave me: And another reference to 29mm: http://www.carry-back.com/CARRY BACK Carbu setting 3.htm
  7. Opps. I was off the mark. Chickenman pointed to it being an L28. I saw low vin 240z in your signature and assumed L24. 30mm chokes will give you lots of lower end torque (which most of us like) however it sacrifices WOT runs where more airflow trumps. I recommend tuning the 30's now and go bigger if not satisfied, Here is a great thread on a similar quest with an L28. Torque won in the end. http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/
  8. Hi Duffman, I'm not sure I understand the 16mm fuel level? On 40DCOE the passage to the main circuit is 23mm down, You will want to be ~6mm lower than this at 29mm down from the edge. At 16mm down you will be flooding the main circuit. For Emulsion tubes, Chicken man knows his stuff but at this point I would not worry about changing them. They basically are only in operation at WOT as you run up the rpms from 3000 to 7000 (unless your fuel is too high or main jet is too large). They do have a bit of an impact at high load cruising but you can tune this with the main jet a little. One other thing I forgot to address are the "other" aspects that must be correct before tuning triples: 1. Valve Lash: Engine should be tuned nicely with correct lash set. 2. Intake Manifold air leaks: Absolutely none. This will throw off any tuning. 3. Timing: DCOE's and L engines like lots of advance. 15 to 20 degrees at idle with full at 36 to 38 are typical ranges. No vacuum advance is needed. 4. Linkage: Remove all slop and ensure all three carbs open at the same time and the same amount. btw do you have a device for measuring air flow into each throat? You will need this to tune once you have the fuel level sorted. For your 40DCOE 151's you will find the Idle Enrichment (IE) screws will need to be ~ 1.75 to 2.75 turns out from full stop. These carbs have a narrow tapered needle and are more precise than early Webers that have a wider taper and seem to work best from 1/2 to 1 turn out. Here is some data I collected when tuning and changing the idle jet number of turns on a set up much like yours:
  9. I found 55F9 Idle jet worked nice on a 240z. It will give you more fuel in the transition and you can dial it back at idle. The lean on hard acceleration seems strange with a 125 main. I wonder if your fuel level is too low? What version of 40DCOE do you have? For the leak, it could be very small aluminum washers that may be missing on the pump jets: Or the aux venturis may not be sealing well against the throat. This could explain the leak and weakness on acceleration. For completeness the choke plungers can leak. If you have them in your carbs you may want to disable the choke cables then ensure the plungers are all the way down. Here is how to check for correct fuel level.
  10. Hi Duffman, No problem. My buddy Ross Parks is in your neck of the woods this winter. Say hi if you see him. The biggest source of leaks with Weber DCOE's are: 1. Fuel Level Set Too High. (27mm to 30mm down is where you want to be) 2. Aux Venturi sealing inside the throat ________________________________________________________________________________________ Some Passini for you too. As mentioned in another thread some good Weber info will be shared in a month or two http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49393&d=1321585578 Look at the pump leaking at the phillips screw in this video at high rpms. I speculated and discovered then later saw that Passini knew of it all along Nothing new under the sun. Fuel _PullOver_ from accelerator pump squirters..avi __________________________________________________________________________________
  11. Better photos: http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1907-Nissan-Fairlady Z 432-2.0 Liter Inline DOHC 6-Cylinder
  12. One for sale in USA https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/nissan/fairlady-z/1873845.html No engine photos????
  13. Had fun with my good buddy Dr240z refining the tuning of his triple webers. The last time we set them we used a fuel level of 25mm below the cover-body margin (as per Keith Frank's recommendation). It turns out this is way too high and caused the cruise to be too rich... something that could not be tuned out. Idle and WOT were easy to set however. This time we set the fuel level to 29mm and used a new rig to do this as precise but much faster than the pipette method or the caliper method. It turns out that a column of water 8' to 9' high "head" gives a pressure of 3.5 to 4 psi at the base (simulating that of the fuel pump on a Z.) so we strung a funnel and hose near the garage ceiling and ran this into a carb lid on the floor. The carb lid sat on a clear plastic tub with water levels from the top scratched into it for reference. the top of the tub represented the top of the carb body. By filling the system with water, it flowed through the needle valve at ~ 4psi. When the flow stopped, we measured the fuel level and bent the float tabs as required to get 29mm. Once all 3 carb lids were the same, we continued tuning and finally dialed in the carbs to a powerful yet non-stinking/non-fume delight at idle, cruise, and WOT. FYI: Gasoline would have been more accurate but water worked and was safer. FYI the S.G. of gas is ~0.70 so a float would sink lower in it. 9' Head 29mm fuel level The Doctor
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