Tirnipgreen

Huge decision to make...Stainless hard lines or mild steel and then have them cadmium plated...? I like the idea of stainless, but have been told there can be sealing issues at the fittings. I have made the decision that pre-bent is the way to go and there isn't that much of a cost difference between SS and mild steel. I don't know the cost of plating, but can't imagine that it isn't cheap. It also stalls the work on the car. Opinions, please...!

I found a set of four on Ebay. Looks like 2 are almost perfect, 1 is very, very nice...but the fourth one will not go on my car in the shape that it is in. So I am now looking for one or even two that are immaculate. And on that note, I have at least 4 to sell that need restoration.

Does anyone know of a source for restoring the original (but not the "D" type) of 240z wheel covers...?

View Advert 240-Z Headers New Pacesetter Headers and Y-Pipe for the 240-Z...not sure if they will fit the L-28, but there is a hole for the O2 sensor, so I would think so. Those who know more about this, feel free to write. I was thinking $225.00 for the set. Thanks...Ryals in North Georgia Advertiser Tirnipgreen Date 03/28/2019 Price $225.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Thanks for the pic, Wilkes. I like the reverse elbow mod.

I would never delete all of the vents. I will leave the big one that is connected to the filler neck. But the two small ones go nowhere with the elimination of the evap tank...which is EPA nonsense. If anyone ever wanted to put it all back, they will have the parts to do so...along with the flat top carbs.

Carl...Thanks...! I am going to eliminate the vents all together when I have a shop clean the tank. I was thinking of having the outside waterjet blasted and powdercoated. Any thoughts...? Thanks again...Ryals 1973 240-Z 115 Blue / White interior

Thanks to both of you for chiming in. I am a Triumph guy venturing in to new territory with this Z project. EPA BS killed British Leyland as things got so complicated fuel system-wise. I am very familiar with SU's from my TR world, I bought a bunch of Z parts and a new set of Webers was included in the lot. I have round tops to fall back on...just wanted to see what the downdrafts would do. The tank issues with respect to venting are the big thing for me. Seems like the time to eliminate what I can as no EPA numb-nut is going to be knocking at my door asking to inspect the car. And if that expansion tank can be eliminated, I will put it on the shelf with the flat tops...! I am really enjoying working on the 240...a little tired of the same old British rut. Although I will never sell my TR4...!

I have a 73 240-Z. Restoration getting out of hand, but I shall see it through. We dropped the gas tank and have the interior panels out. I am wondering what items can be eliminated completely or closed off with plugs, etc. There is a tank in the cargo area on the right side that is probably useless...maybe some of the gas tank fittings as well. I am running earlier SU carbs but have a new set of Weber downdraft carbs to install if they are a better bet. All comments appreciated...Ryals in north Georgia

I have a 73 240-Z. Restoration getting out of hand, but I shall see it through. We dropped the gas tank and have the interior panels out. I am wondering what items can be eliminated completely or closed off with plugs, etc. There is a tank in the cargo area on the right side that is probably useless...maybe some of the gas tank fittings as well. I am running earlier SU carbs but have a new set of Weber downdraft carbs to install if they are a better bet. All comments appreciated...Ryals in north Georgia

Does anyone know where I can get a NEW front bumper without the license plate tabs...? (turns out the bumper I have IS for a 1973 with the holes for the overrider bumper guards) I am definitely going with the early style bumper, but would like to find one without the tabs... pre-chroming.

Zed...I feel like if I tighten this down the ball joint casting will crack. I can hear the powder coating cracking on the control arm as I tighten the two smaller bolts. The casting seems to be a bit too large or tapered for the large hole...maybe too much powder coat...? I don't want to bend the control arm when I tighten the larger through bolts with the tension arm on top of the ball joint flange...Just nervous, that's all...! Thanks...Ryals

I love to see a really good picture of how it all looks when correctly assembled....PLEASE...!