jitenshakun

Has anyone used the JDM Parts radio delete pocket? I'd like to pop one into my '73 and wanted to check fitment. Thanks. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-radio-delete-pocket-for-fairlady-z-z432r-datsun-240z?variant=25008521737 Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

The "book values" sometimes lump the L24 and L26 values together, which doesn't make complete sense. No engine runs exactly the same so I'd always be prepared to move "off book" with Weber jetting. I run an F7 emulsion tube and the only place that said that was the way to go was the Deshammill book; all the online Datsun stuff said I should run a leaner emulsion tube. In this case I'd have a hard time believing the 60F6 idle jet is the right one for the L26. I'm sure it guarantees the car will start when you bolt on the Webers by virtue of being so rich, which might be why they spec the kit with them. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Idle jet lean to rich goes: F3, F1, F7, F1, F4, F2, F13, F11, F8, F9, F12, F6 At 60 I'd say the pig rich is because it's the richest possible AND too big. Lean to rich on Emulsion goes: F11, F15, F16, F2, F8 and F7. The F11 you have is a lean choice, but emulsion tubes are a bit tricky. They change how and when you main jets work under acceleration, so impact how much the idle has to do. The 125 main jet might be about right. For now, I'd scale way back on the idle jet, like 55F2, and leave the main and emulsion. I prefer to go one step at a time but 60F6 is way out there. I run a 55F13 on my L28 block.

Don't be afraid to mix it up. None of the internet jetting worked for me. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Stamped on the jet. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

At 2 psi he isn't flooding the bowls. I'm surprised it runs rich with the idle screwed in all the way. That practically shuts the fuel off. Screwed in for lean, out for rich... Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Is your friend running a mech or electric fuel pump? Either way, a pressure regulator may be needed as Webers only need 3psi or so of fuel pressure. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Can you post up the jets? Its as easy as popping the inspection cover and using a flathead to back out the jets. Idle jet, main, and emulsion tube at the minimum please.

Thank you. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Here's what I've landed on for my L28/e88 with DCOE 42: Choke 32mm 2nd vent 3.5 Main 135 Emulsion F7 Air 170 Idle 55F13 Pump 40 1.5" air horns Elevation 3,500' I have no hesitations across all types of acceleration conditions. My most problematic condition (slow acceleration off idle jet) is now a "spike" in AFR to 15. Previously it was to +20. My cruising idle is a bit rich (11 AFR) but compared to all the +/- I did it's the best of the tradeoffs across jet combinations. The single biggest change was going to the F7 emulsion tube, which didn't show up in any Z tips. It came from Deshammill as a "will work with most applications" statement. I haven't put it on a dyno, nor do I plan to. I had a car that could barely get up hills and was terrible out of corners while daily driving. I know have a car that snaps whenever I accelerate, pulls all the way at WOT, and has AFRs between 11 and 15 the whole time. Pretty happy as a first time Weber tuner. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

Bit of an update. I figure the PO set up the carbs based on the picture below. I added in a wideband and nailed down that the carbs were pig rich everywhere with a really lean acceleration. I've leaned out idle jets, main jets, and idle mixture. The next step is to bump up acceleration, followed by narrowing the emulsion tube. I also learned my engine is a recently rebuilt stock bottom end (l28) with a stock e88 (l24) head. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

I have someone that can help with watching the progression holes and butterfly. They are spaced, but not a lot. I have new gaskets on the way so I can measure when I swap those in. I'd like to eliminate the chance of a vacuum leak.

Chokes for 42 DCOE are had to come by because the carb is non-standard. The carbs have 2 progression holes.

I haven't checked bowl levels yet. Good tip. Thank you.

Opening slowly or mashing it results in the same spike in AFR and engine shudder. Because I can't actually change my chokes I haven't been bothered by what they are. Are possible solutions different depending on the size of the chokes? E.g. if a choke were smaller I'd look at my idle jet vs. looking at my main jet if I had larger choke? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm learning here.