LeonV

You'll know when they're tight enough when they don't leak. ;) I snug them down by feel and check tightness after a few heat cycles. Resist the urge to over-tighten.

No problem, glad you're working on keeping Z's on the road!

Hey Carl, original factory service manuals are available for download here: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html You'll find the wiring diagrams there.

A quick internet search reveals a few options, pick your favorite crush washer material ;) https://www.pafclassic.com/en/products/weber-dcoe-dco-sp-dcnf-single-straight-banjo-fuel-union-kit?srsltid=AfmBOoq5ukUvhDXxnqqb_bqcpdGNw_3AcHT7iFfyKyzncsrh_GXfJ5VP https://www.ebay.com/itm/354625889861 https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/weber-straight-fuel-banjo-fsecua001/?srsltid=AfmBOookU9JLoE06bCn2KTkd4T8aJB8yfRU5JA9pgrHYypDIrSUrB9DT

Sorry, missed this one... I see. So then all you need is three straight banjos and you're set. If Pierce can't hook you up, I'm sure you can source some from a hydraulic fitting supply shop. What fittings do other Z's use which have that same fuel rail? Regarding how much "crushability" they have, the answer is "enough" ;)

Bob, to answer your original question, that sealing interface was designed for a crush washer. You will see them on every other triple-carb Z you ever come across. You don't have to spend any extra money to make the crush washers work. O-rings and teflon tape are asking for trouble, to say the least. But it appears to me like you've already made up your mind... Did you call Pierce Manifolds to see what they have to say? They'll happily sell you fiber crush washers if the idea of using copper or aluminum is unsettling to you.

Cheers, thanks Charles! I'll have to redo it whenever I finally take the time to swap to the OERs I bought years ago. That'll also provide a good opportunity to shorten the adapter stacks that are currently feeding the hoses from the tees; it's on my fuel rail V2 wish list. The concept was to make something functional but fitting the period aesthetic. I specifically wanted to keep a fuel return system to help keep the fuel cool and to also allow for backpressure regulation for controlling fuel pressure. The regulator is downstream of the carbs and so is able to quickly regulate pressure drops. It also allows me to run high flow fuel pumps without overwhelming the floats. Lots of wins here which gave me piece of mind and enjoyment in building it. :)

I bet those washers are aluminum. Do they stick to a magnet? Steel is not a good idea but copper or aluminum crush washers are industry-standard. What is absolutely not industry standard is using teflon tape to seal fuel fittings--this is a great recipe for an engine fire. I've never heard of gasoline-safe teflon tape and even if it did exist, I would absolutely not trust it compared to a crush washer. I made my own fuel rail and used the Earl's fittings on my Webers that @astrohog mentions. The carbs are plumbed in parallel like you say and use aluminum crush washers as the sealing interface. I've had no leaks or issues in over 10 years of running this setup. The parallel fueling setup is superior in terms of keeping equal pressure on all 3 carbs, as compared to plumbing in series. It's not clear to me what sort of grief this causes?

I'm not sure why we need to reinvent the wheel here. Aluminum (or copper) crush washers are an industry-standard sealing interface for probably billions of hydraulic interfaces world-wide. Most of these run multiple orders of magnitude higher pressure than the 3-6 psi that your carbs will see. This is a severe case of over-engineering. ;)

Great action between Rob and Chet in the Alfa, that looks like a ton of fun! Love the curb-hopping. 🤙

Rod has what you need. I recently bought the exact same mirror from him and know he has multiples: https://rodsdatsun.com/

Hey Mike, can you please elaborate on what is "the right setup" in your mind? Are you referring to installing relays? What separates Morimoto bulbs from others? My need is reducing electrical load in the system (headlight switch connector is already partially melted) while maintaining reasonable light output with minimal fuss. The idea of using a low-current, high-output LED bulb instead of installing extra wiring and relays is very appealing to me. Very curious to get these parts and try them out for myself! If my $100 experiment doesn't work, then it's on to other solutions. ;)

Did a bit more sleuthing and bought these https://www.ebay.com/itm/357952518138 along with the Toyota Koito housings that you linked! Found the housings cheaper here: https://cruiserteq.com/oem-toyota-koito-h4-headlight-upgrade-kit-w-harness-elec81110kit/?searchid=0&search_query=h4 All-in at about $110, I'm excited to try these out! Hopefully no more melted wiring and better light output.

Hey Steve, I've been looking into polarity-independent LED bulbs as they're seemingly the least intrusive lower-current/higher-output option. I've been doing some searching and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge here! Before I commit to ordering new housings and bulbs, I'm curious whether you're aware of any compatible LED bulbs with a warmer color, like the 3000K "Classic White" which Holley offers? I prefer a more period look when the lights are on.

I'm assuming all the sharp edges will be filleted before being sent out for production? Curious what the mass is as well?