Jump to content

Duffman

Members
  • Posts

    730
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Duffman


  • User Group: Members


  • Member ID: 9154


  • Title: AZ Z Fan


  • Content Count: 730


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.12


  • Reputation: 47


  • Achievement Points: 4,782


  • Member Of The Days Won: 0


  • Joined: 11/04/2005


  • Been With Us For: 6172 Days


  • Last Activity:


  • Currently: Viewing Topic: Parts is Parts, Until They're Not


Clubs

1 Follower

Contact

  • Map Location
    Scottsdale, AZ

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1970 240Z<br /><br />
    2008 Honda Civic Hybrid

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Duffman's Achievements

ExperienZed

ExperienZed (11/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

47

Reputation

  1. I had the same issues as CO, multiple adjustments and still too low until I reach a point where it overflows!
  2. Adding my 2 cents, I believe that CO created a great solution for the wayward float! The "bloat" works great on my setup, and I have no calibration issues like you are running into, Madkaw. I highly recommend the concept! Bruce, I like the new screw idea!
  3. Good idea, Patcon, will look into providing that solution!
  4. Thanks, Patcon and Mark, I agree that anything I do will not permanently impact the hatch, it is just a means of plugging the openings so no water can leak into hatch. Wondering if some thick rubber plugs, cut to fill the openings, would be an option?
  5. Thanks for the response, 26th Z, but I have already closed up the inside hatch panel with a solid piece with a sealed liner. The outside metal-looking hatch vents I have, but the plastic pieces that go inside the hatch for drainage are not so easy to find or are just expensive. Hence, the thought is to just block the openings under the outside vents.
  6. My early Z has the hatch vents, like this pic. I have some of the pieces to replace the plastic parts in the hatch to drain the water out but not all of them. To find replacements would be pricey. I am trying to figure how to block the hole under the vents, so the look remains but no air or water will get into the hatch. Here is the pic of hatch with the vent and one without. Any ideas out there?
  7. Could add the headlight covers on the buckets for a more aerodynamic look ...
  8. CO was kind enough to send me a trial set of "bloats" to test on my Z. I have a 2.8L engine rebuilt with flat top pistons, standard cam, N42 head and block, 6 in 1 header, short ear fuel bowl lids on both front and back SUs, etc. I have some experience playing around with SUs and Webers, so this was fun for me! My standard floats weigh around .4 oz, and CO sent me a set weighing .7 oz. My initial efforts to get the fuel level set, using my set of FloatSyncs, proved to be most difficult, and after multiple failed attempts, went back to CO to discuss options. He thought going to a lower add on weight might prove to be a solution. So, he redrilled the "bloats", took out the heavier weight, and added a lighter aluminum plug. The weight of the mini "bloats" was .5 oz (25% more than my standard float). This proved to be a much better solution, as I was able to quickly dial in the appropriate fuel levels in each carb, while having the tabs of each mini "bloat" set at a level where I don't have to worry about the float hitting the side of the fuel bowl to reach a full level. I will leave it to the industrious Captain Obvious on how he created the mini "bloats", but I believe it is a great solution for those with a similar problem!! Thanks, Bruce! Now, on to finding the perfect SU needle for my Z ...
  9. 240260280, is your jet alignment tool primarily for the 4 screw dome carbs, or for either the 3 screw of 4 screw? I can see how it would adjust the nozzle in the 4 screw carb to sit in the appropriate position. I am trying to understand how it would benefit for the 3 screw, as you would have to take the dome and piston out to put the needle in, which would undo your adjustments.
  10. CO, I would be more than happy to test your new “bloats”, but I need the temps to drop below the 117 it is today!! Let me know if you want to send my way.
  11. I appreciate Namerow’s thoughtful analysis, many things to consider in the workings of this “simple” system! CO, your points are spot on, in regards to the reality of floats that have to be raised to their max level, or beyond. I have run into issues with both the float hitting the side and the tang/needle misalignment causing problems. Looking forward to some live on the road testing to validate the float weight gain!
  12. Will be interested to see how they work in running car, though should be great. I will use my Float Sync tool to see how level adjusts in running car. Good job!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.