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About Duffman

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 9154

  • Title: AZ Z Fan

  • Content Count: 728

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  • Joined: 11/04/2005

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    Scottsdale, AZ

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1970 240Z<br /><br />
    2008 Honda Civic Hybrid

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  1. Good idea, Patcon, will look into providing that solution!
  2. Thanks, Patcon and Mark, I agree that anything I do will not permanently impact the hatch, it is just a means of plugging the openings so no water can leak into hatch. Wondering if some thick rubber plugs, cut to fill the openings, would be an option?
  3. Thanks for the response, 26th Z, but I have already closed up the inside hatch panel with a solid piece with a sealed liner. The outside metal-looking hatch vents I have, but the plastic pieces that go inside the hatch for drainage are not so easy to find or are just expensive. Hence, the thought is to just block the openings under the outside vents.
  4. My early Z has the hatch vents, like this pic. I have some of the pieces to replace the plastic parts in the hatch to drain the water out but not all of them. To find replacements would be pricey. I am trying to figure how to block the hole under the vents, so the look remains but no air or water will get into the hatch. Here is the pic of hatch with the vent and one without. Any ideas out there?
  5. Could add the headlight covers on the buckets for a more aerodynamic look ...
  6. CO was kind enough to send me a trial set of "bloats" to test on my Z. I have a 2.8L engine rebuilt with flat top pistons, standard cam, N42 head and block, 6 in 1 header, short ear fuel bowl lids on both front and back SUs, etc. I have some experience playing around with SUs and Webers, so this was fun for me! My standard floats weigh around .4 oz, and CO sent me a set weighing .7 oz. My initial efforts to get the fuel level set, using my set of FloatSyncs, proved to be most difficult, and after multiple failed attempts, went back to CO to discuss options. He thought going to a lower add on weight might prove to be a solution. So, he redrilled the "bloats", took out the heavier weight, and added a lighter aluminum plug. The weight of the mini "bloats" was .5 oz (25% more than my standard float). This proved to be a much better solution, as I was able to quickly dial in the appropriate fuel levels in each carb, while having the tabs of each mini "bloat" set at a level where I don't have to worry about the float hitting the side of the fuel bowl to reach a full level. I will leave it to the industrious Captain Obvious on how he created the mini "bloats", but I believe it is a great solution for those with a similar problem!! Thanks, Bruce! Now, on to finding the perfect SU needle for my Z ...
  7. 240260280, is your jet alignment tool primarily for the 4 screw dome carbs, or for either the 3 screw of 4 screw? I can see how it would adjust the nozzle in the 4 screw carb to sit in the appropriate position. I am trying to understand how it would benefit for the 3 screw, as you would have to take the dome and piston out to put the needle in, which would undo your adjustments.
  8. CO, I would be more than happy to test your new “bloats”, but I need the temps to drop below the 117 it is today!! Let me know if you want to send my way.
  9. I appreciate Namerow’s thoughtful analysis, many things to consider in the workings of this “simple” system! CO, your points are spot on, in regards to the reality of floats that have to be raised to their max level, or beyond. I have run into issues with both the float hitting the side and the tang/needle misalignment causing problems. Looking forward to some live on the road testing to validate the float weight gain!
  10. Will be interested to see how they work in running car, though should be great. I will use my Float Sync tool to see how level adjusts in running car. Good job!!
  11. Interesting stuff, CO, I am looking forward to your final results on the weighted floats. I have bought, fixed up and sold 12 to 15 sets of SUs over the years, always testing on my own car for appropriate fuel levels, performance, etc. I needed to bend the float further than what directions said but still within range, and no floats hitting side of float bowl. On my own set of SUs, I am having similar challenges to you, with my front carb needing to be severely tilted up to allow appropriate level of fuel in the bowl. I run same level of fuel in each bowl, no difference in front and back levels. I think it sometimes sticks on side of front bowl and fuel overflows. Your solution may be a great answer for this! Good luck!
  12. I was thinking the same thing; maybe having the short ear version of the fuel bowl lid on the front carb would help get the desired fuel level. But, you are saying that won't make a difference, right?
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