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duffman

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About duffman

  • Rank
    AZ Z Fan

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  • Map Location
    Scottsdale, AZ

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1970 240Z<br /><br />
    2008 Honda Civic Hybrid

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  1. I have run them in my L28 240Z, great AFRs on acceleration but a little rich on cruise (for me). Randalla uses them on his L28 Z, is very happy with them. I ended up going with the TF needles; leaner at cruise, still strong at WOT.
  2. Wow, that is Gunther Toody (Joe E Ross) from "Car 54 Where Are You?"!! He and Fred McGynne (Herman Munster on The Munsters) were police partners on that show! Okay, I digress ...
  3. Jim (zKars), I etched a slight groove around the Float-sync at 14 mm above each block with a mini tube cutter, works great!
  4. Philip, trying to see how the fuel rail connects to each carb. I see the runners to each carb, but where are they specifically hooking up? Am not as knowledgeable about Mikunis versus Webers. Thanks!
  5. Looks decent, but not sure if it beats TWM intake ($429) at Pierce Manifolds (and other locations).
  6. https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft
  7. Zedyone, any update on your problem resolution? I just bought the TWM (2 post) triple intake manifold to replace my Cannon. Have had similar issues with idle return, am hoping this helps. Interested to hear if you had a solution for your setup.
  8. I read somewhere on this site that each tooth, addition or subtraction, equates to a 5% change in mph reading, all things being equal.
  9. Wow, Philip, glad all is well! Can't say you don't give your all to the cause!
  10. I have stuck with the Cannon intake, so far, and have switched from the standard shepard's hook setup to the Lokar cable arrangement. The linkage is so much better, but I still battle a sticking idle issue. I have gone from the standard 3 terminal rod holder arrangement and downsized to a 2 terminal approach (see pics). I have made sure that each carb closes independently and smoothly, and have installed the stronger throttle plate return springs in each carb. I tried going to a 3/8" throttle rod (from standard 5/16"), but had sticking issues on the linkage rod end bearings, so went back to the smaller rod, but with a shorter length (ok, I hear the jokes coming ...). You can see the arrangement in the pics. Bottom line, still having idle sticking issues. Should I try to have the linkage to each carb attach on the same side, would that make any difference? Any other thoughts and suggestions? Love the Lokar cable solution, much better than the shepard's hook setup!!
  11. You might have a washer that is not the right size that may be impeding your ability to raise the nozzle so it lies flat to the bridge. Check the lineup of nut, spring, washer, etc, on each side to make sure they are both the same.
  12. Granny, that option may be illegal in some states due to the brevity of parts!! 😲 As for the shiny Euro option, I agree with Fernando (of old SNL fame), who said (with heavy Spanish accent) that "it is better to look good, than to feel good". I took that to mean make it shiny and dazzling, even if it runs like s@%t!! Ha, ha! And, Randalla, those wingnuts are lined up, just the camera angle ... 😎
  13. Ok, Site, if we are going the self-gratifying route (😉), here is another option; just go the Euro balance tube route, get rid of everything else!
  14. Bob, wow, nice cars! I see you are in the Phx area, where are the cars located?
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