Patcon

I have this same set and they are great. I love them

I use the high heat setting on my heat gun. I have also found those paint curls can be razor sharp when cooled

That's a nice "P" car!

Not great, but I've seen worse get fixed

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

It's very difficult to glass things onto the car and make them stay long term. Just too much vibration for the connection

I have the book but have not checked it. I probably should. I thought I would call Rebello too for his thought, since I need a recommendation on a head gasket too. I'm not sure the standard L20b gasket has a big enough fire ring to cover our punched out cylinders

So I have a question. I have heard that the rod bearings can lack sufficient oil because one main bearing feeds two rod bearings. There was a hack I came across to rebore the galley feeding the main larger. They suggested 1/4" but it looks pretty close to that. Thoughts??

If there's rust around the windshield, it's gonna have to come out.

Yes, I believe they are all the same

Which area?? The flat area of the slam panel or the very end of the quarter panel? There are at least five different panels that meet in this area

I would also look around for cracks on the chassis. At the strut towers or strut tower braces, spare tire well. Anywhere it could make a noise. I agree with Zed on the low threshold for the sound. Maybe get some one to drive you around in the hatch area to see if you could localize it

You could see if you could get a title through a title company

Oring between sender and tank

I would say at that price, it already is

Front lower edge of the drivers door appears to have problems. I don't see the seam at the doglegs in the rocker panels and that always makes me nervous. I agree with the others about getting it on a lift and looking around for evidence of rust or poor rust repairs

No pictures?? or video???

Did you do a wet test? If you add a little oil to each cylinder and retest, if the numbers improve, it's rings. Could be worn or poorly seating... PS: always hold the throttle 100% open when testing. Not doing so, will give lower numbers

Once I have a shape I will export a DXF file and have a piece of 3/8 steel plate torched out. Then weld it all up into a new transverse member

Duplicate thread

I posted this in the other thread: Did you check the head and block for flatness? What caused the head gasket failure?

Did you check the head and block for flatness? What caused the head gasket failure?

Are these quarter windows the correct ones for a 240Z???

So I switched gears today. Wasn't really motivated to do anything but finally did (I had Covid a week ago). So I started working on the differential and differential brace to accommodate an LSD diff I drew the transverse assembly member in AutoCAD Then I plotted it out on my big plotter and mounted it to cardboard I also got the bolts for the musache bar back in the chassis. I had asked a year or to ago for torque values but never got an answer so I Googled generic torque values. They're 18mm thread and I assume they're 8.8 so I torqued them at 130#'s with a little blue lock tight. I could have gone all the way up to 200#s supposedly but that seemed like enough. I got the mustache bar hung. It's interesting you can't install it with all the other suspension in the way. I was able to thread the chassis bolts up and down so I didn't have to disassemble the suspension

I wouldn't think it would matter on in/out