Patcon

I agree with CO Gone in 60 seconds. My youth was very colorful. If I really wanted to protect it, put a tracker in it. It'll tell you if it moves and you can lead the cops right to it. Provided they're still interested in that sort of thing where you live...

I used those myself but found they needed a little clearancing to get into the yoke ends. Did you have any issues?

Post up some rebuild results and tie this off nicely

Super!

300 mm and look how much space to the shock tower...

If I were going to repair this car, I would also replace all of the cowl. Probably all of the inner and outer cowl structure. I suspect the inner is very thin from rust and the outer is basically gone. Is this area an anomaly or is there extensive rust in the rest of the car?

If all 3 on one carb are like that, I would start there. Maybe stuck choke or choke cable binding up

@Mike Could a page be made to house some of these really helpful links? Tire calculators Engine calculators Zcar registries Atlantic z car links Etc

I have always found Dave Patton to be very helpful

What makes you think the Canon is insufficient? I think I would do some volumetric calculations to see what the engine might want based on final displacement. I would also contact whomever is now supporting mikunis II don't remember if Wolf still does it) and somebody for the webers (Redline maybe) and see what their thoughts are on the respective carbs for the proposed engine. The 40s should perform better down low but that's not an absolute

14.3? I assume

Dizeased would tell you more cam. He's built half a dozen Z engines, atleast My first thought is what king of head porting is being done?

The wilwood does something totally different. The nissan part senses a circuit failure front or back. Slides the piston and lights the brake light. The wildwood changes brake bias front and tear which is what the part on the rear circuit is supposed to do. I wood heat the aluminum to get the caps off. The aluminum should expand faster that the steel. Good fitting impact sockets that wont expand. One I had them loose. I would try to block the ports as necessary and use air to move the piston. Failing that I would rig up a way to use a grease gun on it and see if I could force it out that way. I wonder if a PO had a circuit failure and replaced the switch on a misdiagnosis and the second switch did the same thing. You could also source a new switch with the double end caps

What flaws? Looking to learn

Congrats Cliff

Yes Not much I wouldn't try these days

I have found it very difficult to get this right. I found that my hatch seemed too long also. I just got it back into the shop. So I will try to make some pictures this weekend

I'm not sure I would have even bothered with a wet test with numbers that good

Sounds like a nice car

Something controllable. Dremel, round file, low speed die grinder

I started with a 100 amp flux core. Then, I did a gas bottle on it. Now I have a Hobart 230, that is about the right size. The only real complaint I have is the 12 current settings versus infinite adjustment. I run .023" wire with gas and normally weld on setting 1 or 2. .030 or .035 wire requires more current to puddle and that can make blow through holes. 20 ga really isn't that bad to weld but there are some super thin areas of the that are. I have also found that unlike good golf clubs, a good welding machine make a welder much better. Unlike my golf game... If you can afford it, get the better machine now and learn it versus learning how to make the wrong machine get by. I also agree, if there are gas services in your area that will fill privately owned bottles, go that route. I have a 99 year lease on my bottle so I exchange it at my local welders supply for a new bottle when its empty but no rental charges

One thing is, the hatch may need to sit slightly higher then it does now. It will be close to the line it should be on but not perfect. The hatch could go forward a little more to line up better, but I have found it very difficult to get it right all the way around. Like grannyknot said, the cars weren't perfect right off the line. I am sure well restored cars are much smoother, straighter and better gapped than factory cars were.

If you can get the hatch closed without paint damage, post a picture of how the lower edge lines up with the rear of the car Also inspect the hinge tabs that are welded to the hatch. The welds can fail and the tabs can move, making adjustment more difficult

Flux core is not the way to make this repair in my opinion. You need gas and mig with a decent duty cycle. If you're burning holes, then your current is too high or the metal is too thin. A welder with too low a duty cycle can also do this when overworked

Ron, maybe some pictures would help Pictures all the way around the hatch...