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Putting in a replacement L-28


Av8ferg

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So most of the regulars on the forum know I rebuilt an L-28 last year. With all sort of reasons for delaying the install I’m now about ready to do this. I wanted to start a thread to help lead me though any unknowns or challenges I’m bound to face on this next big task.
To get everyone up to speed, the current engine has all sorts of problems that pushed me to just do a rebuild with a ZX motor I got at a salvage yard. Here are the bigs three items wrong with the current engine. 1. Rusted Core Plugs, so rusted that coolant leaked pretty bad. I had a temp fix of filling the rusted out holes with JB weld. It’s actually held. 2. Serious timing changing slap (needs a new chain) 3. Bad oil leak. Then you have lots of little things like broken valve cover bolts etc..
So the new engine is pretty much ready to go . Staying EFI for now, got a non-EGR intake, new injectors and a new billet fuel rail. Engine was a total top to bottom rebuild.
Thats the back story.
I’m about 10 days from actual engine removal. I have to acquire an engine hoist and get any other parts that will stop the install.
So I want to ask the members here to give me some insights of things I might be overlooking and maybe some lessons learned. Places people have problems, special tools I might need and or things people screw up.
I plan to spend about a week with the engine out, cleaning and preparing the engine bay. I also plan to replace ball joints and suspension rubber then.
If anyone has tips and/or tricks to help me through this (doing it mostly alone with a little help from a buddy when I hoist and re-install). Please share. I’ll post updates on this thread as I work through this. Thanks!

Here is the old and new engine pics taken today.

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I like to pull the engine and transmission as a unit, swap the transmission to the fresh engine and then reinstall as a unit.

Also, I find it easier to remove the intake and exhaust with the engine in the car, and reinstall after the engine is back in. Fewer things to get in the way or hang up along the way.

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A wooden stand like this is handy for fitting the flywheel and clutch. its easy to make around an engine or sump with a bit of decking board. You can even put castors on it to roll the engine around. (corner needs to be cut away for the oil pump before use!) 

DSC_0442.jpg

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Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors.

https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/

Let me know if you know a better source.


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Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors.

https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/

Let me know if you know a better source.


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263e53961e9bff7b11c1a09987754335.jpg
This is from under the clutch master and the worst part of the engine bay. Rails look good still. Under the battery is not as bed either.

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Have you inspected the shifter strike rod for leaks? There is an o-ring inside the tail housing that you can only replace if the gearbox is pulled.

Here is my thread about it:

There is also some notes about a lightened flywheel, let me know if you need a parts list for the clutch setup, I can get you the finalized parts list.

 

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Have you inspected the shifter strike rod for leaks? There is an o-ring inside the tail housing that you can only replace if the gearbox is pulled.
Here is my thread about it:
There is also some notes about a lightened flywheel, let me know if you need a parts list for the clutch setup, I can get you the finalized parts list.
 

Yes, absolutely I’d love that parts list. My current 5speed has a nasty whine inn second. Not sure what it is but I got a 5 speed from an 82 ZX to replace it. I haven’t checked the bushings.


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A thought I had but never tried is to use spring compressors on the front springs to stop the car from lifting as the weight is removed.  Not uncommon to run out of lift if you're using a cherry picker.  I had a chain hoist from the rafters so had plenty of travel.  Do your lifting calculations before you start.

Siteunseen/Cliff mentioned using a rope and a block of wood through the shifter hole to lift the back of the transmission if you install the engine and transmission together.  I always learn these good ideas after the fact.  I had a heck of a time trying to lift it from underneath the car to get the crossmember under it.  There's just no room.  Didn't have a load leveler either, but those only have so much adjustment anyway.

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Note this parts list is for a 240mm clutch, I like the feel, others have also advocated for the light flywheel, larger clutch combo.

I think this is everything, the Bearing Sleeve needs to match the pressure plate setup..... :ph34r:

Coutesey Nissan
Part Number    Part Name    Price    Quantity    Total
32862-E9300    Control Lever Boot    $5.94    1    $5.94
30501-K0404    Bearing Sleeve    $24.13    1    $24.13
32710-14600    Seal-Oil    $1.22    1    $1.22
30534-E9000    Clutch Release Arm Spring    $2.33    1    $2.33
30514-14600    Clutch Release Bearing Clip    $4.25    1    $4.25
32103-U840B    Plug-Drain    $8.82    1    $8.82

 

RockAuto

Exedy 06030 Clutch Kit $ 105.89

 

Amazon

Fidanza Flywheel 143281 -- $314.32

https://www.amazon.com/Fidanza-143281-Aluminum-Flywheel/dp/B000ECTQ4A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fidanza+240z&qid=1626714849&sr=8-5

 
Edited by heyitsrama
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Thank you!
What the difference between
The 225mm and 240mm clutch? I under it’s a different size but what does that translate to in regards to driving? I’m not racing this car on a track just want a fun, reliable car to enjoy driving on the streets.


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To my understanding a smaller diameter clutch will bite/engage harder because of the reduced surface area and mass. With the larger clutch you retain the engaging characteristics to be closer to "OEM" yet are able to get the benefit of a lighter flywheel (better throttle response).

I'm quite happy with the setup. perhaps others can chime in....

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