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About Randalla

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  • Member ID: 17919

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  • Joined: 03/21/2009

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Randalla last won the day on December 31 2021

Randalla had the most liked content!


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  1. I'm waiting on additional quotes for some of the components before deciding if I'll produce another batch of Float-Syncs. I'm now finding all my component costs have gone up since producing the last units nearly 4 years ago. At that time I believe I was selling a pair for $69.95. I'm just not sure the demand is there at around $90.00 to warrant my investment. If I see sufficient interest here and elsewhere at the increased price I may produce one more run of 50 or so sets. Thank you for your interest.

    1. RubenD


      Hi Randalla. I'd pay $90 for a set of these if you're still considering making more. 

  2. Interesting how much misinformation still gets circulated on Scarab Engineering, its cars and its founders (Brian Morrow and Keith Bergey). 4 years ago I wrote the definitive book on the company after visiting with both founders and speaking with them extensively. My book, "Resurrecting the Legend - The Real Datsun Scarab Story," can be found for sale on eBay.
  3. I don't currently have any units left for sale but am considering producing more if there seems to be sufficient interest.
  4. We've made incremental improvements, but it still doesn't seem quite right, though I'd say it's maybe 50% better. Turns out the strut inserts were the correct ones for his car after all, and after seeing both versions in the flesh I don't really see any way they could be assembled incorrectly, as dimensionally they are quite different. Any improvements made can be attributed to three things I think. I added a small amount of gear oil in the strut tube before inserting the KYB inserts to neutralize any harmonics that could have been created. I also replaced the spacer between the spring perch and insulator, though it was only a small amount compressed/deformed. Tires on his car were set at 35 lbs., so I deflated them temporarily to 25 lbs. as an experiment. I did climb in the hatch with my stethoscope to see if I could isolate where the noise was coming from when driving over the road reflectors. Unfortunately that did not yield any new information. This is a moving target but we do seem to be moving in the right direction.
  5. The struts were recently replaced by someone else to try to solve the problem, but from the pictures posted on Rock Auto showing both early and late strut cartridges, it appears that person used the later inserts. When I take the strut apart next time I'll be able to verify if he has the correct KYB part number. If not I'll swap them. If he does have the correct part number I'll have to keep searching for the problem.
  6. Correct struts are ordered. I'll report back here on progress and results in a couple of weeks. Thanks everyone for the thoughtful replies.
  7. Thank you Jeff. Will definitely check that during disassembly/reassembly with the new cartridges. The current condition is that the gland nut holds the cartridge tight with a couple of threads still showing.
  8. Thank you Captain Obvious for this. You're confirming where my head is currently at. Re: your inquiry, why I don't know the part number on the insert, I reassembled the strut and installed it back in the car before I had all the information I tracked down subsequently. Looks like I'm moving toward replacing both cartridges with the correct ones for an early 260Z, and hoping I have the correct insulators. I only wish I had a duplicate set of early and late 260 components so I could inspect and mic everything, side by side. Anyone out there have a 260 parts stash that's willing to take on that challenge?🤪
  9. Thanks guys, appreciate all the thoughts. A couple of more pieces of information. I didn't mention it in the first post that we checked the spare tire well and down inside the rear quarters thinking maybe something had fallen in and was bouncing around. The bushings, with the exception of the rubber diff mount, were all urethane but were replaced by someone else trying to track down the issue previous to my work. The new urethane bushings didn't make any difference. The sway bar links are tight and the bar is oriented properly. I did find one loose exhaust hanger, but tightening it didn't make any difference. I like the idea of a test ride in the hatch to listen closer to the area I believe the sound is resonating from. I will be trying that. U-joints are good and half shafts are tightly bolted. Gas tank is firmly secured. I've done a lot of work on S-30 chassis cars (probably well over 50) but never encountered this issue before. Thinking at this point someone may have installed the wrong KYB part number, but I'm not sure yet exactly how they differ and what the effect would be of installing the wrong part. To your comments relative to the low amplitude of the bump, that's what make this so strange to me. Going over a big dip where the suspension is fully loaded and unloaded does not produce the banging. I'll soldier on, but am obviously open to other thoughts. Again, thanks for your responses thus far. I'll keep this thread current as I get more information. Thanks for the offer of taking pictures Steve J but everything under the car looks fine. The car has always been in CA or AZ so very little chance of any repair or rust.
  10. I'm working on a customer's 260Z (1974 narrow bumper/earlier VIN). The car was brought to me after it was worked on by 2-3 other shops who couldn't solve the problem, finally throwing in the towel and giving up. I'm determined to solve this issue for my customer. When the car is driven over a tar strip or road reflector there's a very loud, disturbing banging noise. The sound is definately in the rear, and happens whether it's the left or right tire that rolls over the bump. The car has a pair of recently installed KYB strut inserts and all new bushings through out the suspension, but the problem is no better than before being installed. Car also has a brand new rubber differential mount. When I received the car my first step was a visual inspection, followed by tightening every nut and bolt in the rear end to assure nothing was missing or loose. The banging was still present. At that point I thought the strut insulator may have come apart causing metal to metal contact when the suspension was loaded and unloaded. I pulled one of the rear struts out and disassembled it to look for damage or perhaps a missing part or incorrect assembly. Nothing was readily apparent (see pictures). After contacting KYB, I learned they had two distinct part numbers for strut replacements on a 260Z, one for early cars and one for late cars. Each one is dimensionally different, 12mm vs. 20mm, from the bottom of the threaded portion to the point where the shaft flares. Apparently the correct part number for this car is 361001 (the 20mm version), but I don't know if that is what's on the car or not. I also noticed while I had the strut apart that there is quite a gap (1/4”) between the shaft of the insert and the hole in the spring perch that it passes through. I thought there might be movement/contact when the suspension was loaded and unloaded that could cause the banging. There were also no washers around the strut cartridge anywhere, which I seem to remember on other Z cars I've worked on. At this point, all this is just conjecture, but I'm hoping someone with a similar issue could shead some light on the mystery and suggest other potential causes.
  11. I own, and use, both a soda blaster and a larger version of the ultrasonic cleaner pictured above (both inexpensive Harbor Freight products), on Z aluminum castings (carb bodies and fuel pumps). Both work well, but one thing I learned is there are two versions of Simple Green, one green and one purple (both available at Home Depot). The green one will etch/dull the castings, with soda blasting the best way to counteract the effects. The purple Simple Green product says right on the container it will not etch aluminum, and I've found it works quite well when diluted 5 parts water to 1 part Simple Green/Purple.
  12. Currently have an AFM gauge wired in, sitting atop my steering column shroud, with the sensor installed in the correct position in my downpipe. It's not super precise, but did give me a way to dial in the needle profile I'm currently running (TF). Will also give me a basis to compare the SUs I'm currently running and the triples.
  13. Frankly, I was surprised at the torque number as well. The first pull was a little lower, at 218.2lbs, but still pretty stout given my engine specs. Patcon, agree the triples look great and they sound awesome sucking in all the extra air. May have to try them and see where I'm at. The switchover doesn't take that long unless I scrub the linkage and substitute a throttle cable.
  14. Thanks Zed Head for your thoughts and link to the excellent tutorial. I learned a few things I wasn't aware of. Pretty sure my E-88 came from a 49-state 240Z, so likely fairly small combustion chambers, if I'm following you correctly. Car does run exceptionally well, so small gain with high cost is not really on the table. I had the option of installing flat-top pistons when I installed the re-worked head. My desire to get the car back on the road trumped the piston swap. This post was spurred for the most part by curiosity over what my impatience may have cost me. I may still swap on my Webers, though, I've had my triples on one of my other 240's and, honestly, my experience has been well set-up SUs perform just as well on the street, with a lot less headaches. Thoughts?
  15. No, I haven't measured cylinder pressures. I know compression numbers are different, but for what it's worth, compression when checked a month ago was: #1- 160 psi #2- 150 psi #3- 150 psi #4- 150 psi #5- 150 psi #6- 152 psi
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