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Randalla last won the day on May 16 2017

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About Randalla

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  1. siteunseen's approach is a good way to more precisely check float levels. I manufacture and sell Float-Sync on eBay (pictured below) and have received excellent feedback, if you are interested. Float-Sync is the best way to calibrate float levels between two Datsun 240Z SU carburetors because you'll actually be able to see the fuel level in each bowl, even with the car running. The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step you should take before making other fine adjustments to optimize “runability,” In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately as possible. I learned, like most of us, to set float levels by removing the float bowl cover and measure the distance between the edge of the lid and the top of the float while the cover is inverted. What I've since learned is just how imprecise this approach is because many variables. Those variables include whether the carbs are being run with or without float bowl gaskets, how many turns down the jet nozzles are set, if the float valve is fully opening and closing, if the float bowl lid has short or long ears and if floats are intact and their buoyancy is the same in each float bowl. I'm sure there are a number of others.
  2. Any way of knowing which of the two side switches might be causing the short? Not really sure I understand how the circuit works, given there are two very similar switch boxes, one on either side of the stalk. Any idea how the two function together? Is one for low and park and one for high beam?
  3. Thank you Zs-ondabrain, this is exactly what I needed! Back to work now.
  4. I ran into a similar problem recently on a car I purchased. Make sure none of your fuel hoses are too big for the metal lines they connect to. If they're not the proper size, it doesn't matter how tight you make the hose clamps you will not get good enough suction to fill your float bowls. They should be hard to push on. If they are not there is a pretty good chance they are too large a diameter.
  5. I got brave today and took my headlight switch apart to clean up the contacts, as the switch was working sporadically. Everything went great till I realized I had an extra part left once it was all put back together. The part is a very small plastic bushing that apparently keeps metal parts from shorting against each other. I believe there is a total of 3 of these in the whole mechanism. I have no question where two of them go (they hold down and isolate the two headlight switches from the contact for the wiper washer. I guess the third one fell out when I was disassembling it and I did not see where it came from. Now when I flip the switch I blow the 20 amp fuse, so there are definitely two things touching each other that shouldn't be. Pictures of the bushing are below. Can anyone tell me with where the lone one is supposed to go? Thank you in advance!
  6. I've had them apart and they didn't look like any Z buckets I'd seen before. Without the spring and the tabs to attach it to, it sure looks like these are not the right parts.
  7. I'm afraid the previous owner may have substituted parts from something else.
  8. Wouldn't you know it, I just had the center console out for something else and got it all back together. Thanks for the advice guys. I guess I'll repeat the process, Arghhh!
  9. Recently acquired a series I car where the glass lenses for the fuel and oil pressure gauges are so loose that they ratter and lay against the needles so the gauges don't read properly. I want to get them out of the IP to repair, hopefully without pulling the IP or coming in from the passenger side through the glove box and destroying my glove box liner. Is it possible?
  10. I have a set of headlight buckets on my series I 240Z, that does not have the spring or tab inside for adjustment like my series II 240Z. Are they different or do I have a set of buckets in my series I car from something else? Not sure there is any way to adjust the light on my series I car currently.
  11. I like your idea siteunseen. A little worried the next time I need to take the taillight apart I may have the same issue, given the extra resistance typical with loosening up a nyloc nut.Think I'll try using the old hardware and just add a small flat washer to make sure the nut does not pull through the plastic housing.
  12. Thanks for the reply Peter. Actually there are small captive acorn nuts that the Philips screws screw into. They're held in place by the plastic molded around it. Once the bond is broken, it just spins in the plastic housing. The only way I could see to get the taillight off was to carefully carve away the plastic around the nut enough to get a vice grip or wrench on it. Finally got it off. I'll need a washer along with the acorn nut and screw to secure it back together upon re-assembly.
  13. I'm in the process of refurbishing my 240Z taillights and have run into a problem. The Philips screws that hold the taillight to the rear panel all came out easily on one side, but two of the screws on the other side just spin, so I can not take the light out. Has anyone had this issue and solved it without damaging taillight housing?
  14. inline6, this is excellent reference. Thank you for posting this. What are your intentions on your project? Looks like you're prepping for a re-spray. Will you respray something approximating the original undercoat and then spray color?
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