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Randalla last won the day on May 16 2017

Randalla had the most liked content!

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About Randalla

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  1. Looks like I'm going to be a busy boy tomorrow. I should have said that the first thing I checked were the two fuses, which appeared to be fine. I know, looks can be deceiving, so tomorrow I'll switch them both out with new, just to be sure, before pursuing the other avenues. Will also "hose" down the dimmer switch as that's also an easy check. Steve, thank you for your suggestions and reminders as well. With any luck, I'll report back with positive results tomorrow. Thanks again guys!
  2. Thanks guys for the quick response and thank you Chuck for the very through explanation. You've given me an excellent place to start. With this crazy Covid, I've got nothing but time. Very much appreciate the advice!
  3. I have a 72 240Z that has a screwed up combo switch. Need to determine if it's fixable or if I need to replace it. Blinkers work fine, left and right and front and back. I have no headlights at all on low beam. On high beam, I have a bright passenger side light and a dim driver's side light. Guidance on where to start would be much appreciated.
  4. Thanks for your order Steve. I just dropped it in the mail.
  5. If anyone's still interested in purchasing a Float-Sync, I have just 20 sets left. 30 have been sold since April. Not sure yet if I'll produce additional units or not. They're available on eBay.
  6. siteunseen's approach is a good way to more precisely check float levels. I manufacture and sell Float-Sync on eBay (pictured below) and have received excellent feedback, if you are interested. Float-Sync is the best way to calibrate float levels between two Datsun 240Z SU carburetors because you'll actually be able to see the fuel level in each bowl, even with the car running. The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step you should take before making other fine adjustments to optimize “runability,” In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately a
  7. Any way of knowing which of the two side switches might be causing the short? Not really sure I understand how the circuit works, given there are two very similar switch boxes, one on either side of the stalk. Any idea how the two function together? Is one for low and park and one for high beam?
  8. Thank you Zs-ondabrain, this is exactly what I needed! Back to work now.
  9. I ran into a similar problem recently on a car I purchased. Make sure none of your fuel hoses are too big for the metal lines they connect to. If they're not the proper size, it doesn't matter how tight you make the hose clamps you will not get good enough suction to fill your float bowls. They should be hard to push on. If they are not there is a pretty good chance they are too large a diameter.
  10. I got brave today and took my headlight switch apart to clean up the contacts, as the switch was working sporadically. Everything went great till I realized I had an extra part left once it was all put back together. The part is a very small plastic bushing that apparently keeps metal parts from shorting against each other. I believe there is a total of 3 of these in the whole mechanism. I have no question where two of them go (they hold down and isolate the two headlight switches from the contact for the wiper washer. I guess the third one fell out when I was disassembling it and I did not se
  11. I've had them apart and they didn't look like any Z buckets I'd seen before. Without the spring and the tabs to attach it to, it sure looks like these are not the right parts.
  12. I'm afraid the previous owner may have substituted parts from something else.
  13. Wouldn't you know it, I just had the center console out for something else and got it all back together. Thanks for the advice guys. I guess I'll repeat the process, Arghhh!
  14. Recently acquired a series I car where the glass lenses for the fuel and oil pressure gauges are so loose that they ratter and lay against the needles so the gauges don't read properly. I want to get them out of the IP to repair, hopefully without pulling the IP or coming in from the passenger side through the glove box and destroying my glove box liner. Is it possible?
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