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Randalla last won the day on May 16 2017

Randalla had the most liked content!

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About Randalla

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  1. Well, I don't have anything that looks like that. Looks like I need to fabricate something. Thanks for posting this.
  2. I'm re-installing my re-furbished stock radio, but the way the factory mounted it has eluded me. I believe the radio goes in before the HVAC bezel, levers and cables, but I don't see how the radio is secured in place. There are threaded holes on each side of the radio but no bracket of any kind to support the radio. Am I missing something?
  3. I second Stanley's supposition that there's a possibility of at least one of the two things he suggested contributing to the issue. I struggled with a similar issue, only to discover that after replacing my nozzles with a set of brand new ones, the problem was gone. If you have wallowed out nozzles or they become oval from needles that are not perfectly true (not always easy to see) you will struggle with optimizing how your car runs. The $100 I spent simultaneously for new nozzles and needles was worth the headaches avoided.
  4. I intentionally didn't scribe marks on the site glass, but rather included instructions to set floats at the proper level, as Duffman suggests. Some owners prefer their floats set differently. One nice thing about these tools is that you can visually check the fuel level throughout the entire rpm range to to assure you never run the float bowls dry even under full acceleration for an extended period of time. Two tools are included in each set to simultaneously check each carburetor at the same time. It's critical to proper tuning that float levels are as close as possible. If they're not, the number of turns out on the mixture nuts will differ in order to compensate.
  5. Here's a few pictures of Float-Sync in use.
  6. Thanks for the mention Duffman. The tool I created sold out quickly about a year ago and I had not planned to produce anymore but recently decided to produce additional units due to the demand and emails I have been getting. I'm still a month away from having quantities for sale but here are a few pictures.
  7. Are you still selling the float sync?

    1. Randalla


      No, sorry. Unfortunately I've sold out and will not be producing any more. My cost to produce them went up, to the point I wasn't able to make a fair profit. Thanks for the interest.


    2. zreptar


      Do you have a recommendation for anything that would do the same? 

      Did you have a machine shop make the aluminum blocks?




    3. D447E


      I copied Randalla's design with a drill press. I have a buddy at a machine shop who cut a couple blocks from a scrap piece of aluminium. Most machine shops won't take do this as an official job (my buddy's has a $500 minimum) but you could probably bribe someone to do it on their lunch break.

  8. Great idea! I assume from the picture that you just used the inner felts. Appreciate your response as those are readily available.
  9. I'm in the process of cleaning, lubricating and re-building my 240Z wiper mechanism. Noticed when examining everything once it was out of the car that it appeared to have felt washers as part of the pivot mechanisms. Mine were rotted/unusable but I assume I need to find some acceptable replacements as they must serve some purpose. Seems like nylon washers might be a more durable alternative. I believe there are either 3 or 4 used in total. Has anyone replaced these parts with something that works well?
  10. Any float sync set available yet?

  11. For what it's worth, the 1/4" difference in dipstick measure translated to just over 1/2 quart to top off the oil in my L-28.
  12. OK, now this is getting interesting jerz. The engine the P6500 dipstick came out of is an L-28 with F54 block and dished pistons. It had been freshly re-built by a well known local engine builder. When I got the engine it had a P79 head, leading me to believe it did in fact come out of a 280ZX. If that's true, then your information on the P6500 dipstick is probably correct. I measured the dipstick tubes on both my engines. The one on the L-24 is exactly 3" long. The one on the L-28 is 3 1/8." The difference in the two dipsticks, to show full, is 1/4." At this point, I'll be swapping the L-24 dipstick out, and the L-28 one back in. Tomorrow I will carefully measure how much oil it takes to raise the oil level in the engine by 1/4" on the P6500 dipstick to determine how much difference it might make running an incorrect dipstick. I'll let you know what I learn.
  13. I know this is a bit of an inane subject but inquiring minds want to know. Good thought about checking the length of the receiver tube. With all the variations I can imagine there are definitely cars running around with too much or too little oil with owners not even aware of it.
  14. Sounds like E3001 and E3002 may be identical except for the part number. The only mystery now is what P6500 fits.
  15. Checked this morning to see what part numbers I had on mine and if there was a difference in measurement between the bottom of the stopper and the full line. The dipstick from my L-24 has the same part number you referenced, E3002. The other one I have has the suffix P6500. The difference in measurement from bottom of stopper to full line is 7- 3/16" for E3002 and 6-7/8" for P6500 (5/16"). Memory is a little fuzzy but I seem to recall having other dipsticks with an even different number, E3001 as I recall, but maybe E3000. Would be interested to know if any of you have a part number on your dipstick corresponding to either of those numbers. Chickenman, thank you for your response.
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