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Greetings,

Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless.

I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end.

I have a list of to do items:

  • Remove and clean fuel tank
  • remove rear end/install R200
  • drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission
  • new fuel filter/fuel pump
  • New fuel line (possibly)
  • new tires/wheels
  • brake job
  • bushings

Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out?

 

Thanks for any helpful hints or advice!

 

Mike

 

Edited by Mike mcdade
correction

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What are you going to use to run the 3.1?  Carbs or the 1977 EFI?  The word is that the stock EFI system doesn't work well with high performance engines.  It's not tunable.  Plan ahead.

That 82 5 speed likes 3.9 gears in the back.  Might be a little "boggy" off the line with the normal 77 3.54.

Looks like fun.  Several 77's in the works on the site right now.

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find the thread "waking the beast" or something like that. Lot's of good tips

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Stopped by the old man’s house today to get some pictures and to finalize the to-do list. I have 3K to get this car up and running. Primary focus will be on drive train, engine, and wheels. The engine bay is clear, but sitting in a garage has left its share of dust and dirt. Plan is to use an pressure hose to blow away dirt and grit and to use simple green to clean the engine bay. Goal is to sand and spray paint black.

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New stock brake components will be fine. You'll have trouble getting the aluminum rear drums but the fronts are cheap. About as cheap to get new rotors as having the old ones turned. Replace the wheel bearings and races too. I bought some cheap stainless flex lines from the hardline to the calipers front and back for $50 I think off ebay.

If it's like the ones I've bought you'll have a hell of a time getting the rear drums off. Take your time with a rubber hammer or a small sledge hammer. Good luck.

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The aluminum and steel drums are both available at MSA. The aluminum ones aren't very cheap though about $130 each versus $43 for the steel ones

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

New stock brake components will be fine. You'll have trouble getting the aluminum rear drums but the fronts are cheap. About as cheap to get new rotors as having the old ones turned. Replace the wheel bearings and races too. I bought some cheap stainless flex lines from the hardline to the calipers front and back for $50 I think off ebay.

If it's like the ones I've bought you'll have a hell of a time getting the rear drums off. Take your time with a rubber hammer or a small sledge hammer. Good luck.

Yea it was a nightmare taking it off a 240z I owned.

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Today I prepped the engine bay for painting. Sprayed simple green across the walls of the bay to scrub off dirt and grime. There were tons of grease towards the bottom. After a couple hours I actually saw portions of the original late 70s orange paint. I remember back in the 80s when the car was orange with the large crash bumpers before all the mods.

I used rustolem black gloss. Most of it was completed today, but I have to finish the firewall another day.

I did remove the transmission from under the car as well.... and spelled 20+ year old tranny fluid all over myself and the floor.

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Started today dropping the gas tank. I decided the garage needed to be accessible first so I did some spring cleaning. I jacked the car up and worked on removing the bolt straps keeping the gas tank in place. I’ve read people being able to do this task in 15 minutes, overall it took me 4 hours due to stubborn bolts, hoses, and clamps.

I had to take a few breaks due to the varnish gas giving me headaches. Some of you guys may give advice on the gas tank. Obviously I’m getting a new sending unit due to the corrosion. This tank looks worse than others I’ve seen online in forums.

the punch bowl was adhoc, my gas can was too tall to fit under the car.

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Edited by Mike mcdade

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Punch Bowl for gasoline = 1 pissed off wife.  😀

Another vote for the CLR method that Whee introduced.   I've got a tank soaking with about 3 gallons of vinegar right now.  A very slow method but very economical and not as harsh as Muratic Acid.  Seems to be working but my patience is wearing out.

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Trying to remove the half shafts from the rear differential, did not expect this to be much of a chore. Decided to liberally spray all the bolts with WD40 and try again tomorow.

 

Sending unit has been sitting in CLR for a few days, about to scrub it down again.

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Nice! I'm glad to see the CLR method making the rounds. It's very hard to find replacement sending units on the 280's.

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Debating. I want to have this car running again by spring, but fighting the differential is taking time. Me thinks I may keep the differential in, and proceed to brakes, wheels, and engine/trans install and make the differential job for next summer.

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If you're going to do wheels and brakes, and suspension, you might consider dropping everything as an assembly.  Struts, control arms, axles, diff will all drop as one sub-assembly.  Drag it out and the nuts and bolts will be easier to get to.

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