Patcon

yes, potentially. Depends how hard it is to get out

Yes

Oiling can be bad for the clocks

Are the aftermarket ones LED or incandescent?

Very pretty! Xmas in October

very informative

Well there's a project for you Chris!!!

Or you could contact one of the better panel fabricators. They could probably supply one

I have 2 different style vacuum bleeders but I still prefer pedal bleeding. I dont know if you've noticed but air can come in around the threads of the bleed screw. That can't happen with pedal bleeding. Fluid can come out but air can't come in

I sometimes run ½ a quart through before I'm happy with how it looks. Mainly because a I want clear fluid coming out. No black. The bubbles normally go away pretty fast unless the line is really empty

Update: They appear to have found my missing hardware, hopefully it's all there Thanks Jim I love Texans so that might be a good option. I also did some wiring of small parts prior to plating. We'll see what I lose and what I don't Chris, Thanks for that! I can get pretty good results with smaller parts. Larger parts can be more problematic. It is also very time consuming to plate in small batches. It would take 100-120 hours to plate a whole car's worth of hardware, that might be low. I was hoping to find a solution for bulk parts and then do some plating at home to fill in around that. It's bad when your DIY plating looks better than the professionals. Sort of disappointing...

I am wondering who everyone is using around the country and how do you feel about the results? It would be nice to find a plater that could handle the Datsun hardware and make it look good but wasn't irritated at helping the hobbyist out. Distance is really irrelevant because the difference in postage is insignificant to getting good plating. I have been trying out a plater in Phoenix who will for the immediate future remain nameless. I have been less than impressed!!! I sent a package out weeks ago. Got strung along with they're almost done, almost done for the last couple of weeks. They called and took payment last week and I received a box today. The parts are ok looking and will probably work but the bigger issue is I'm missing about 25#' of miscellaneous nuts, bolts, washer, etc.!!! We'll see if they find them...If they don't I'm screwed

I would think $100 is more than fair but I'm unsure a out the interchange...

I would think in a support role the electric pump would flow even more because the mechanical is helping pull somewhat

You can unscrew the bleeder all the way and hand thread a small drill bit in and clean out any gunk that way

Not worth the effort. I dont believe you would be able to tell the difference even on a dyno

Might be able to calculate it based on the FSM test

Have you checked voltage at the devices?

That is one of my objections to the flairs. Many times to run them you have to cut the wheel arches all up. Then try to weld them closed to keep water out of the car. That just doesn't seem like a good decision for a car that is likely to appreciate a lot in value in the next few years.

Nice Goon! I could do without the slammed bags look; it would be nice to find a limited slip diff like that though!

$68 seems like a really good price for a sub 1000# car in pretty good shape. Could be some unknowns going on behind the scenes like Zed said

Cody especially!

Im ok with the babying part to some degree, but I agree on accelerating and decelerating to set the rings. The idle part wouldn't be my choice. What kind of warranty is he offering? Motors are motors. His shouldn't need a special procedure compared to someone elses. @Diseazd What is yours or Eijis preffered break in method?

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

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