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The resistors won't drop the voltage until the injector is activated. I think in this condition (ignition on, not running), you should see full voltage on all injectors.

So sorry about your dog. We went through the same trauma last year with Millie. Nothing worse than losing your best pal…..takes a very long time to heal!

She paints iconic cars with their people. James Dean, Janis Joplin, Paul Leonard Newman etc.

Some work for my second blue 240Z. I wanted to see if Datsun 240Z has the same pin hole for the rear gate emblems . I found three holes for “Datsun “ is almost the same , only the one on far right needs to be more outside for “ Fairlady Z “ . “ 240Z “ pin holes position is exactly the same for the “ 432 “ . Datsun 240Z doesn’t have “ NISSAN “ on the rear gate, so if someone wants to have it , he /she have to measure the original positions then drill the holes. I am not going to put them on , just checked it for my curiosity. Kats

There should be a companion 3-pin connector (with the same 3 wire colors - Blue(L), Blue/Red(L/R), and Blue/White(L/W)) under the dash. IIRC they're in one of the two harness bundles that runs from the right front (passenger) corner area to the center and aft along the right side of the transmission tunnel (just under all that HVAC and blower stuff) to the radio and console area. Most of the wiring is for the gadgets in the console - lights, switches and such. HAVING SAID THAT... The wiring to the radios IS THE MOST HACKED electrical wiring in an early Z car! Who knows what the P.O.s have done with that wiring... How the original antenna works (or worked): The stock antenna was manually operated (not auto-extending when the radio was turned on, auto-retracting when the radio was turned off like later antennae). The stock antenna motor is grounded to the frame. It gets power through the switch attached to the radio and accessible through the radio faceplate. The switch isn't part of the radio itself. The switch is momentary (returns to an "off" or "closed" state when released) and controls the direction the antenna motor spins. Pressed to one side, the antenna mast goes up until your release the switch, pressed to the other side the antenna mast comes down until you release the switch. If you keep holding the switch when the mast reaches full extension or full retraction not-good things can happen - there is no shut off in either case except for your finger.

Nissan wrote a book. It covers all years through 1980. Many possible reasons for not running great.

The last 1/2 inch might be the pilot bushing in the crankshaft. You haven't said if the fork is hitting the back of the hole. Looks like the vendor might be right. The 240 mm pressure plate does fit many different applications. I think I might have known that once in the past. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1990,300zx,3.0l+v6,1209686,transmission-manual,clutch+pressure+plate,1988

Hi Gavin, I hope you will find the right pipe for your carburetors . It is nice to hear from you had same issue just like me . It seems to me it is not that special pipe , you will be able to buy it at your local “ home depo “ store , will not be ? Thank you so much for your offer about the radio , I need to make up my mind , I need to set the goal for my #2146 before asking you about it. It is very fun to think about how I want my cars to be . Kats

This recent thread might help you with understanding the switch and antenna wiring:

I looked for that number on RA and couldn't find it. Seems like you did get the last two. And what a deal that was!! Good for you!

"Punter". I have never heard that term. Thanks for the smile!

Looks like he gained some weight.

Hi Kats, I found this 1 today on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-AM-Seek-Scan-Radio-70-71-Series-1-OEM-Hitachi-/334457840983 You're right, prices are crazy. If you really want 1, I am sure I could help. Or perhaps we could swap parts? Please feel free to send me a PM.

Does anyone know if you can get replacements for the coolant pipe on the intake manifold? I see you snapped it Kats, as did I on HS30 00150 when I tried to remove it, it was so rusty and fatigued. I don't know if anyone sells replacement parts for them? I've noticed most people block off the coolant running through the intake manifolds. As @26th-Z points out Australian market cars got the clean balance bar and exhaust manifolds from 1970-73. Which looks a lot cleaner. Often mistakingly referred to as "euro" by a lot of Punters.

I don’t know who she is either. I posted it because I thought maybe one of our historians might know. She has a team jacket and PLN’s helmet so she isn’t just a random fan…

We have a small dog that just turned 13yo. She’s down quite a few teeth, her eyes don’t work so well (hardly can see rabbits or squirrels), her top speed is way down, and her range is quite a bit less. She’s probably got a few years left in her, but the quality of life isn’t what it used to be. It’s sad to see these signs of her aging, and it’s real sad hearing about some of you folks losing your best friends. 🥲

FWIW, I just found a closeout on Rock auto. Moog (made in Japan) inner tie rods for $13 each with boots! I also got two sets of outer tie rod ends, as I am pretty certain that the inners will have the same threads on both sides. Looks like I am going to rebuild route.

Sorry to hear about the dog. We recently went through the same with a 17 year old cat. That's nice you were able to help get another MG sorted out for a few hundred more miles of use haha. Sounds like you have a lucky neighbor.

That's Edgar Winter.

I have been though several electric fans setups, and I did try the relay with a several brand cooling switchs at several times and they are not at all accurate. if you look in the electrical section on this site I did just install a davies craig fan controller with great success. I at one time use a flex-a lite 14" fan with the old radiator and now with the new champion radiator I have a 13" spal fan. the spal fan has a lot more air flow then the other fan . [power]

Well, you can cover it up however you want but from the factory it was just a single sheet of fairly thin plastic glued on at the edges by that black goop with round cutouts for the bolt locations... It doesn't really "seal up the door" but it does give the door card - which falls apart when wet - some protection for those of you that live in places where it actually rains and snows.

Same no. Only a full sheet. You know, maybe on a 280Z. I wouldn't know that much about a 280Z.

Very nice exhaust manifold, Kats. I had the same idea for 26th and installed a 'U98' casting I bought in Australia. It does not have the dimples for the air injection ports - smooth transition. I had it ceramic coated so that it would not rust.

Grab them while you can. These parts aren’t going to be available forever.

Hi Chris, thanks for sharing your two super early cars engine data . I think L24-02338 #9828A , 1969 August 28th A . L24-02162 #9901D , 1969 September 1st D . It is always an exciting thing to see those rare numbers in our cars !! Kats

I had a terrible time getting my drums off when I redid my brakes. After looking for a large puller hi and low on both line an locally I decided to devise my one and it worked perfectly. Had the drums off in under 10 mins. I bought two large c-clamps at Lowes and placed a 2x2 wooded board between them with a large socket taped to the middle that would pass through the drum. Here’s a pic, way better than beating the drums and breaking a cooling fin off. The only trick is to the turn each c-clamp a small amount and in sequence with the other one or the device will pope off due to becoming uneven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This weekend hasn't been a great one for me. The wife and I decided a little while back that the last car ride for the last of our dogs would be tomorrow. Given all of the dogs passed relatively close together and not long after my mother-in-law has made it just that much harder. So yesterday I was cleaning up the wagon for the ride to the vet, and the neighbor came over to ask a wiring question for his MG. He described the problem(s), and I gave him some information. We also agreed for me to come over today to take a look at his car. After all, car diagnostics would get my mind off of losing my girl, even if it was only for a short time. I went over to his house and started looking at the issues. He had an aftermarket 3rd brake light that integrated into the license plate light and showed me where he used to have it wired with a vampire clamp. I asked him if he wanted the middle light to come on with the running lights or the brake lights. He said, "Both." With only one wire going to that light, I said he had to make a choice. What he didn't realize was that he didn't have it wired right before. We moved on to the next issue. When he stepped on the brake pedal, his tach needle would drop, as well as the water temp and fuel gauge. Yes, it was the work of Lucas, Prince of Darkness. With a little diagnosis with the voltmeter, I could see a significant voltage drop. Looking at the wiring diagram, it was obvious how this could happen. The same 15A fuse supplied voltage to about 2/3rds of the circuits in the car, and there were a lot of places where the wiring had junctions to split in multiple directions. I thought it might be one of the junctions corroded, but I ran one last test at the fuse box. Sure enough the voltage dropped dramatically at the fuse box when he pressed the brake pedal. A quick examination of the wiring diagram pointed toward the ignition relay. I searched online for the possible location, and we found that the original relay was replaced by a common automotive relay. I went back to my house to get tools and connectors to fix the wiring at the back and grabbed a replacement relay. I installed the new relay, and we ran another test. No issues with the tachometer or other gauges when stepping on the brake pedal. I added a couple of bullet connectors to fix the wiring in the back, and his car was ready for the road again. It felt good making it where another enthusiast could take his car out on the road. All of what I've learned at work and working on my cars pays off. Of course, it only was a matter of time before I returned home and was crying with my wife as we contemplate tomorrow. Anyway, careful diagnostics paid off well, replacing a $3 relay instead of tearing apart and replacing a bunch of wiring.