Roberts280Z

I started out that way, but once I got down to bare metal, I found that there wasn't that much metal there. And then I found that the frame rails were also badly rusted. But if you can isolate your holes to areas away from the frame rails and get to bare metal on both top and bottom, I would be tempted to weld in a patch to see if I could avoid replacing the floor pans.

On my '76 non-CA Z, at idle, I have a very noticeable high-pitched Bronx cheer coming from the area of the BCDD. It's almost a buzzing sound. After reading everything that I could find, I suspect a rupture in one of the diaphragms. The sound will vary if you come off idle. The BCDD seems to still function somewhat properly - that is, holding RPM up for a bit before letting it drop. I could disassemble it to check the diaphragm(s) condition, but I don't think replacements are available, either for the diaphragms or for the entire BCDD. I'm aware that some have deleted the BCDD and plugged off the opening. Having said all that, I should add some background info. The car hasn't been driven in years, but the engine has been run several times in the last year. On a couple of occasions, after startup, it has run extremely rich (I have installed an AFR meter) with a very rough idle. Then, after 10-15 minutes, it will fix itself. A restart the next day will be fine. But if it sits for a few weeks, it may fail again. I mention this as full disclosure, but I sure don't see how a BCDD problem can make it run rich. So, any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Robert

I envy you guys who can do this. I was going to practice with my liftgate glass before trying the windshield, but I can't even do that. I'll give up and get a pro for both.

If you don't add a filter, then you're relying on the screen at the pump inlet, which is not easy to inspect nor clean. A clear filter gives you warning that you have a problem developing in your tank. I mounted my filter with a loop of aluminum tubing to avoid sharp bends in the rubber hose. I wrapped the tubing with heater hose to avoid chafing problems.

i recently used Red-Kote on a GM A-body, and I think it went OK. But I didn't think I would be able to use it on my Z because of the baffles in the tank. I took the tank to a shop that cuts access holes in the tank, cleans it out, and then re-coats it. It wasn't cheap - $550.

Thanks guys, Robert

This is an old topic, but not satisfactorily answered. I am trying to install new Front Door Seals I received from ZCarSource. These look much different from the MSA seals that were on there, and of course I can't remember what the original factory seals looked like. Here is a photo of the front of door, and of the seal layed on top for reference. I found some photos here (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39768-front-door-seal-pics/?do=findComment&comment=357725) from 11 years ago. The replies conflicted - some said the rubber tabs tuck under, and others said they're glued on top. Also, the smaller rubber seal that I show encircled in red might not belong on there at all. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Robert

The resistors won't drop the voltage until the injector is activated. I think in this condition (ignition on, not running), you should see full voltage on all injectors.

This is possibly what happened. Suppose indeed there was an extra, harder plastic cover, but over only the large opening at the bottom of the door. It cracked, and I made a replacement for it using the drafting mylar. And, while I was at it, I also made covers for all the other door openings.

Thanks for the suggestions for the watershield. Here is a picture of one of the smaller interior coverings that I had removed and saved, and temporarily taped for this photo: Note that it is yellow from a 20-yr old paint job. I had made these prior to that paint job from drafting mylar, which I thought matched the original material. Has anyone seen similar individual coverings, in addition to the overall watershield?

When I disassembled my doors, I just ripped all the plastic sheeting away, and assumed the FSM would help me with reinstallation photos. The FSM only makes mention of a 'water seal screen', with no diagrams or photos. The parts suppliers don't seem to offer any replacements. If it's just mylar sheeting, I can cut that out myself if I know what size it should be and where it should go. My doors also had individual thicker plastic covers over the individual inner door openings. It's possible that I added those myself, but I don't think so. Thanks in advance...Robert

i wanted a really fat wheel for my aging arthritic fingers. I cut down to the metal core, then encased in successively larger layers of heater hose, and finally wrapped in a custom Wheelskin.

I had a similar problem. I removed my water valve in order to free it up. But then I eventually decided just to inhibit all the coolant flow into the cockpit by plugging the lines, rather than risk anymore leakage. This is not a daily driver, and I'll never need a heater here in Houston.

Thanks for the suggestions. Of course today, the chirp has disappeared all by itself. I'll continue cautiously.

I use a 3' piece of vacuum line stuck in my ear for that. I had gone over the valve cover area to no avail. But I'll widen my search. Thanks!