kully 560

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Good

About kully 560

  • Rank


  • Map Location
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    early 260 z , body stock,1983 L28 motor, 1983 auto tranny,1971 su carbs , jet hot header,e 46 intake manafold,1979 zx distributor 12/80 module, plus lots of ect stuff,exterior color deep jewel green,interior color butter scotch, mint condition

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. has anybody tried this pump ? specs for carter is 4-6psi and 30gph and is also regulated . I am looking to replace my 25 year oil master pump and carry it for a spare so as not to need a hook if I break down when on the road. I do not see many different pumps posted here, I have seen some Airtex Carter 4070, and Holley red. just wondering if anybody tried this pump ? thanks
  2. kully 560

    sensor ?

    I think the same thing but I do not want to remove it with be sure as I do not have a plug for it !
  3. kully 560

    sensor ?

    yes Steve that is it thanks I guess I will remove it , looks like I can not use it . do you know if there is fluid behind it being it is a knock sensor ? do I need a plug or can I just remove it ? thanks kully
  4. kully 560

    sensor ?

    yes Dave I am not sure what this is also, if I can not use it I would like to plug it up if I can find what the thread size is ?
  5. kully 560

    sensor ?

    I have a 1983 280zx turbo motor and there is a sensor on the passenger side left of the oil filter and between the oil filter and the oil dip stick. now on the other side of the oil filter is the oil pressure sensor but I do not know what this one is . it reads normal open with a ohm meter and has 2 electrical connections on it and screws into the block. I am thinking it might be temperature and if so if I can use it for controlling my electric cooling fan. thanks
  6. kully 560

    plug gap?

    great thanks for the reply Zed Head I will leave well enough alone and just order the ngk plugs with the 11 for the higher gap
  7. kully 560

    plug gap?

    hello siteunseen again, I had my gap set to .050 with my set up and today I changed my plugs to the ngk bpr6es-11 gap that I had laying around . the ngk factory setting was at .041 and the car ran better with the closer gap. we spoke the other day about my carbs and I finally finished the float setting . I had to have the wife blow in the gas inlet tube as I set the floats to .55 and now my mixture screws are set at 2 -1/2 turns down . I had a slight stumble of line but I corrected that with a slight increase in idle speed by about 40 rpms and the stumble is gone. so know I am just playing with an ignition tune- up . but the car ran better going from the plug gap at .50 down to .041. if I decide to go lower I will order the plugs with out the 11 at the end. just looking to see what others are set at also . thanks for your reply
  8. kully 560

    plug gap?

    I am using ngk plugs bpr6es-11 with a gap of .041 and a msd 6al ignition and the blaster 2 coil. I am just looking for what other members are doing for plug gaps . I have a l28 block with n47 head and 1971 su 4 bolt carbs all stock . I see the 240z runs about .031 on the gap and the 260z runs about .036 on the gap and now the 280z runs about .044 on the gap . it looks like the fuel injected cars run a higher gap. I like the projected tip plugs the best for these carburetor cars ,and I am going to order some new plugs and the ngk bpr6es has a smaller gap than the bpr6es-11 . just looking if I should go with the smaller or the larger gap plugs. thanks
  9. yes I saw it on the lowes web site. It looks like only made and sold in the 3oz cans but cheaper from where I bought it from. I know 1 can is plenty but I like to have a spare .it seems as I get older I like to have a little stock . it is good for my compressor motor also thanks siteunseen
  10. I will have to check lowes thanks ,I could only find a 3 oz can from ace hardware!!
  11. hi mark , today I bought the blue label 3-in-one oil it is different from the red label one I was using . still had some stumble of line after I richen the back carb but it was better so I went ahead and changed the damping oil to the blue label 3-in-one which is 20wt. the motor idles better and most of the stumble is gone probably about 95% gone. it still could be a tad lean but I do not think by much. I like the fact that I have no fumes in the cabin at all and it idles great. I have to remember this is a carb car and not fuel injection. I will check the plugs again when the motor cools down and see where I am at . thanks again for the tip on the Nissan 20wt damping oil. kully
  12. hi mark my first 3 plugs looked good but the rear 3 plugs looked a little lean. I will try the car today after I turned down the rear carb a 1/4 turn down more. I was not aware of the 20wt oil that Nissan recommended. I thought fork oil or 3-1 oil was good, I think it is like 8 weight oil but will give the 20wt oil a try if my stumble is still there.
  13. I just changed my floats as 1 was going bad it had gas in it . I also have gross jets and spoke to steve yesterday at z therapy about the setting measurement and he told me .55" down from the lid with no gasket. he also said gross jets and needle valves are the same measurement !! I asked him about the bridge measurement and his reply was that this is another way of doing it but very hard to do as the gas in the bridge hole is hard to see it is like looking into a mirror. so I set mind at the .55" down from the lid and it seems to run good with just a little stumble off line but I think I may be a little lean on the back carb as I pulled out the plugs today to check . so I gave the back carb a 1/4 turn down more and re sync. will test tomorrow as it rained all day today. but the .55" seems to be fine. try it nothing to lose. PS my front carb is turned down 2- 3/4 turns and the rear is turned down 2-1/2 turns as of now.
  14. Stanley mine was the opposite ! I balanced the carbs on a cool day early summer and it idled great ran fine . then on a hot humid day it idled poorly but ran great, I have all ways balanced several time a year as weather changed .maybe it was just a little on the lean side the hole time for a smooth idle. for the mixture adjustment I used the color tune ,I also tried to used the lifting pins on the sides of the 4 bolt su carbs to raise the piston a little for the change in rpms but my engine never really reacted like the ones you see on u tube so that is why I all ways went with the color tune for the readings. I was originally around 2 1/4 turns down approx. now both are 2 5/8 turns down and much better all around.
  15. thank for the suggestion Jonathanrussell I will keep that in mind about the heat shield.I know the headers put out a lot of heat and that is also been on my mind. I went with the jet hot headers as it is supposed help with the heat but it still gets hot anyway . I do not drive the z when it is to hot out as I removed the a/c 20 years ago,and with only 2 open windows as you know these cars can get hot on the inside. now my 1971 air cleaner does not have the ducts for summer or winter modes and I all ways thought about bringing the air in from the front of the car so as to try to decrease the heat in the engine area. but I do not know if the su carbs have enough suction to pull the air from all the way from the front of the car back to them. so now when you drive the z will it be like ram air and run to lean and maybe run to rich at idle? right now as of today the z is running great if not perfect but the temps today were in the mid to upper 70s. the next hot day I will take it out and see it being a 1/4 turn lean was my problem.the plugs were a little more on the white side then the pictures I posted but the tips still had a tan color to them . it ran great off line ,mid range ,top end , I never thought about it being lean at idle! maybe one day I look into the header wrap also but the jet hot headers look so nice!