kully 560

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About kully 560

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    kully

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    ny
  • Occupation
    electrican

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    early 260 z , body stock,1983 L28 motor, 1983 auto tranny,1971 su carbs , jet hot header,e 46 intake manafold,1979 zx distributor 12/80 module, plus lots of ect stuff,exterior color deep jewel green,interior color butter scotch, mint condition

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  1. I am also interested in a set for the early 260z also . also if you want to try
  2. I use rotella t4 10w -30w oil, it is a diesel engine oil but according to rotella it can also be use in gas engines . it also has a higher zinc content than a lot of other oils on the market at a decent price tag!! [tsc store sells it]
  3. if anybody is interested I removed the 90 degree baldwin filter that was 15 micron and installed a purolator 10 micron straight through filter and my pressure went to 3.5psi. I did not check if I could raise the pressure higher with my regulator I was happy with the 3.5psi. my l28 seem to run better with the higher pressure going from 2.7 psi with the airtex and now with the carter the psi is 3.5psi .is seems like less throttle to move the car now . hope this review help anybody interested in a quiet pump with good pressure .
  4. I know all about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! at my age I have to think twice
  5. you have it backwards a 15 micron is finer than a 100 micron !!that is why a filter before the pump is called a pre filter with is usually a larger filter like a 100 micron . the filter before the regulator and carbs is called a pre filter usually 10 -40 micron. the 100 micron has a larger openings in the pleats and the 10 micron has smaller openings. efi should use a 10 micron filter and carbs should use a 40 micron, that is the basic rule . I am going to change my baldwin 15 micron filter as it has a 90 degree bend on one end to a straight through design that should get me a little closer to my 3.5psi I hope.
  6. hello grannyknot, when I spoke to carter tech support the filter before the pump that they supply is a 60 micron ,I was informed by tech support not to go below 40 micron, it could restrict flow but I could increase up to 100 micron before the pump . this pump is not self priming ! I needed to install it at or below the fuel tank. I guess that might be why they do not want me go much lower on the filtration before the pump. I would love to be able to reach 3.5 psi at one point for the su carbs . I was thinking maybe a cleanable 100 micron billet filter before the pump [ more flow to the pump ?] if that will help me get to 3.5psi? I like to have the better filter before the regulator and carbs also .
  7. if anybody is interested I way only able to get 3.2 psi from this pump . but the car runs great and quiet now. I have the stock carter 60 micron filter before the pump and a inline baldwin 15 micron before the regulator. hope this help anybody looking for a quiet pump for the su carbs.
  8. well I installed this nice pump today pretty heavy compared to my old pump . I thought I had a master pump but it must have been replace years ago with the airtex 8016. this pump is bone quiet can not even hear it standing next to the car with just the ignition on. I have to go to the back and really listen. carter told me this pump draws 2.3 amps so here are some photos, now also in the photos I see I need to clean up some surface rust that is tomorrows project . next while I am under there cleaning up the surface rust I need to wire for the inertia switch. the pump pressure is rated at 4-6 psi so maybe later I will put the fuel pressure gauge back in and check the fuel pressure . the airtex 8016 pump gave me 2.7psi at the regulator that is the highest it would do.I would like to set this pump a little higher maybe 3.50 psi.
  9. well I ordered the pump and will post how it runs should be by end of the week if anybody is interested. also I found today that carter bought airtex a few months ago from the carter people that's is very interesting.
  10. well I think I found why there is a problem with my leak . I ordered this seal nos oem Nissan part and it does not have the internal spring around the rubber lip. I check on line with Timken and national brand seals and they have the inner spring which will kept it tight around the yoke . my Nissan brand must have been missing the part or there was a problem and the aftermarket company improved with the spring. so I will pull out the seal again and change with the Timken brand and really look over the yoke again and if I see any concerns I will order a new yoke and u joint . thanks for the help, and I will post how the up date fix went.
  11. yes zed head it leaks right now. yes it was a simple job once I was able to undo the drive shaft bolts 1 had to be cut off, and I ordered all new ones to replace and I did anti size them so the hard part is over. I used a scotch bright pad to shin up the yoke it was not mirror like sort of dull metal looking but after 45 years it did not have any surface rust or pits . it just started leaking a little about a year ago and slowly is getting worst not buy a lot but I can tell when I move the car out of the garage I need to correct this problem now. the seal I took out was tore up where it meets the yoke maybe from age who knows but it was bad. I believe the old seal had a spring around the inner part of the seal and the new Nissan did not have the spring inside anymore, was it a design change later ?? yes maybe I should use a little seal sealant this time, I felt no scratches at all that is why I installed it dry . the flange looked like new but the seal was damaged must have been for a long time and now it has started to leak. I find it funny the shape the old seal was in that it took so long to start leaking. that's why I thought there might be another seal in there that I am missing.
  12. no I did not take any pictures because when I removed the original seal it was tore up or worn out around where it meets the yoke. so I thought this would be a good fix. the seal does bottom out when I tapped it in the tail shaft housing. I also installed it dry and I did not think it needed any grease. could there be a better brand seal than Nissan. after I installed the new seal it was dry under there until I put about 100 miles on the car now it slings around because of the yoke spinning. it is not a bad leak just when the car sits for several weeks in the garage. but I hate oil leaks and this is something I need to fix. the oil will blow back the rear differential and it make it look like I have a leak there now also . I did polished up the yoke with scotch bright pads and there is no rust , pits or anything else.
  13. I polished the drive shaft yoke, but it did not have any defects at all but shined it up anyway. I do not know if there is a inner bearing or inner seal? I used the factory Nissan seal and it looked different than the one that came out probably a later design. so I will remove it again and change it but should I use a different brand seal , is there any inner seals , I did not see any when looking in the end. I will also look up about the speedi-sleeve ,I think I know what there are.
  14. hello I have a 1983 280zx turbo that is a automatic and my transmission output shaft is leaking! I replace the seal on the out side of the tail shaft with a new Nissan and it held up for few weeks and now it is leaking again. anybody have suggestion where to go next for this fix . thanks kully