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At least Dr. Fauci is safe, they won't let him in the WH anymore because he has this nasty habit of telling the truth.

I'm waiting for the "just right" to hit and go mow my lawn so here's a joke I heard today for the first time. Sorry if it's an oldie but I'm way down South. Things take longer to get here. (there's a joke right there) Q: What Is The Speed Limit Of Sex? A: 68, At 69 You Have To Turn Around!

A virus? Huh... Spreading like herpes at a Whore House, see that, WH.

Years ago, at a party, a biker showed up. He would walk up to a gal and say, “I’ve got your name tattooed on my d***.” One gal challenged him, so he whipped it out. Sure enough, “Your Name” was tattooed on his unit. What an idiot.

Hung Vu is the guy. He makes the replacement dashes and is an awesome guy and supplier.

It turned out to be a fuel issue. The fuel pump was cutting out after start up. I had the safety oil pressure switch wired wrong.

Received a package today with a couple gems inside. For the last month or so I have been chasing a lean condition just off idle on my 240 motor. Cold it was hard to start even while being choked, a condition I have not experienced since purchasing my Ztherapy carbs in early 2001. Trying all of the normal problem solving I finally did the “starting fluid test” and found that when I it sprayed on the rear side of the back carb the idle was effected. Closer examination I discover the shinny silver cap over the throttle shaft was missing and covering the hole definitely changed the idle. Engine ran good at 2500+ RPM. Steve at ZT called me back and we discussed the issues and he advised me the throttle shaft seal was probably blown out. (A backfire can do that). He offered check the carbs if I would send them to him. That day I UPS them off to him and in less that two weeks I received a package back. My 20 year ZT old carbs look brand new and based on the cost of a ZT rebuild kit the price was a steal. They are one of those companies that you can’t say enough good thing about. THANK YOU STEVE .

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

View Advert RB25 240Z Fully restored and modified '72 240Z in excellent shape. I have owned the car for the past 10 years and have rebuilt it from the ground up including a down to metal professional paint job. The car is turn key and ready to go for anything. Too much to list and receipts for almost everything going back to the 1970s with the original owner including log book, manual, warranty info, etc. The engine is a freshened up Series 2 RB25DET with just over 400HP with all supporting modifications (fuel, turbo, coils, etc.) new and professionally installed and tuned on a dyno with a PowerFC. Even the check engine light is functional. Suspension is a complete custom coil-over setup with all new urethane bushings, oversize disc brakes, MSA sway bars and OS Giken LSD. The chassis was stiffened and setup by the late John Coffey at Beta Motorsports. Interior is custom two tone black/brown with Recaro SRD seats and a properly installed rollbar with DOT/FIA approved 4pt harnesses for both driver and passenger. Dash is redone and contains custom Speedhut gauges in all factory positions. Aside from below, during the build most bolts, tabs, etc. were replaced with new stainless. Additional pictures located here: https://imgur.com/a/ZTWmMCw Suspension/Brakes/Chassis: Adjustable coilovers with full camber adjustment welded in Wilwood oversize 4 piston front disc brakes with upgraded master cylinder and brake bias Silvermine Motors 2 piston rear disc brakes with e-brake Steel braided brake lines Panasport 16x7 wheels with Bridgestone Potenza RE71R tires MSA sway bars and urethane bushings all around Solid poly engine and transmission mounts Chassis setup by the late John Coffey at Beta Motorsports (known for building Zs) Drivetrain: Series 2 RB25DET with approx. 40k miles (custom install welded into factory locations) Nismo single disc clutch kit and pressure plate in RB25DET 5spd transmission OS Giken 2-way clutch LSD in upgraded R200 long nose differential with new half shafts 740cc Nismo injectors w/ Bosch 044 fuel pump Super Spark coil packs Upgraded factory housing turbo Apex'i PowerFC and Greddy Profec B controller dyno tuned up to 370RWHP, but run at lower boost (325RWHP) New OEM MAF and Apex'i intake HKS Blow off valve Oversize radiator and front mounted intercooler 200ZR oil pan Functional check engine light 3" exhaust front to back New half shafts Interior: New interior including OEM kick plates, door panels, etc. Original dash with a fitted cap Recaro SRD seats with custom leather inserts (driver seat fully adjusts, passenger fixed due to roll bar) 4pt harnesses on both sides Properly installed Kirk Engineering roll bar Speedhut custom gauges in factory locations (GPS speedometer which measures 0-60, 1/4mi, etc) Modern fuse panel Nardi steering wheel Rear 6x9" speakers with bluetooth Roll on sound deadening throughout USB charging for accessories Upgraded interior fan blower motor Exterior: No rust, any repair replaced with new metal. No bondo anywhere. Complete bare metal paint job in PPG Ferrari Blu Chiaro paint (80s 328 color) Custom carbon fiber panels and rear 432 style spoiler Upgraded H4 headlights MSA urethane front air damn Carbon fiber bumpers New front and rear glass New rubber seals all around Advertiser JagdStealth Date 06/17/2019 Price $35,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Mmm That photo looks familiar😁 Like site already mention. There is a o-ring seal on the outside of the adator and a lip seal inside for the pinion.

The fluid expands a lot though when it's warm. So, do it when the engine and transmission are cool.

ROFLMAO - I did wonder how someone as wise as you had made that suggestion! [emoji1787] I need to sleep more and regrow the sense of humour!

Here's that speedo washer i bought from local Nissan. P/N #32709-14600. They don't stock them but can get it overnight. It goes down in here. Not sure if @EuroDat posted these numbers yet but I found them on one of his old post.

That's a particular style called Bosozoku in Japan. Kinda fun to see these cars and what people are doing with them...

This was meant as a joke. Thanks AK for clarifying.

I have a 1976 280Z that was converted to SU carbs by the previous owner. The mechanical fuel pump was crap, so I replaced it with a GMB part which didn't seem to work very well. I replaced that with another GMB pump which seems to work fine. I am aware that some have reported problems with them, so I also installed a NISMO electric pump. In reading on this site about how to wire this up I saw lots of advice about adding an inertia switch for safety. From the FSM and wiring diagram I also learned that the factory fuel pump in my car was controlled by the fuel injection relay, which had been deleted long ago from my car. This article describes one pretty clean way of wiring in a relay and an inertia switch to provide power to a low-pressure electric fuel pump in a carb-converted 280Z. Background: In the 280Z the fuel injection relay is actually two relays packaged together: the EFI bible refers to these as the Power Relay and the Fuel Pump relay. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, the power relay sends sends power to the fuel injection system (ECU, fuel injectors, AFM); the fuel pump relay sends current to ... yep, the fuel pump. The current sent to the AFM doesn't power the AFM; rather, the AFM closes a set of contacts when the engine is running and air is flowing, and it opens those contacts when the engine is off. The current required to operate the fuel pump relay runs through those AFM contacts so that the fuel pump relay closes only when the engine is running and air is flowing. If the engine stops, the AFM contacts are opened and so is the fuel pump relay. It's a little more complicated than this (related to how the Start position of the ignition switch sort of overrides all of this so that the fuel pump can run in order to start the engine), but that's not really important for this discussion - I want the fuel pump to run when the ignition is in the ON or START position, unless I've been in an accident. It turns out, there's an easy way to do this. The connector that (formerly) ran to the Fuel Injection relay is part of the instrument harness and is found under the dash by the steering column. I just replaced the female 6-pin connector (only 4 pins are used) with a similar one from Vintage Connections and then wired the male part to the Ford-type inertia switch and Bosch-type 12VAC 30A relay as shown in the diagram and pictures below. I just mounted the relay and switch to a piece of 2mil aluminum plate, and mounted the whole thing by where the ECU was located. It seems to work: the fuel pump comes on with the key in the ON position, and if I tap (well, smack) the inertia switch to get it to open, the fuel pump turns off. I haven't driven it enough yet to know whether the inertia switch will "break" when I don't want it to (going over bumps, etc.), but it's easily reachable from the drivers seat.

That's what I get for reading posts on my phone and using my old bifocals. It sucks to get old. The alternative is worse. Anyway, that drier can be tossed. I suspect it really wasn't sealed tight, considering the duct tape, so it has seen more than a lifetime of moisture.

I think @S30Driver is correct. That looks like an AC driver to me, and it's definitely not stock.

Body colour, domestic cars had black engine bays.

Looks like an aftermarket air dryer of what's left of the AC system.

He's creating "jobs"? I say more work for naught.

My vin#69,??? has horizontal.

My youth came back in a bad way. RIP Eddie Van Halen.

I bet he doesn’t have problems with exhaust gases in the passenger compartment, eh?

Count me too on body color. That's the first thing I notice when I see an open hood. Black is a negative, something was done at some point to this car, half way kind of job. I've used a small HVLP cup gun from Harbor Freight with good results. $15 well spent. I could dial it in to a pattern no bigger than a thumb tack. Still have that little baby!

Agree, body color. I feel like black makes the engine bay too dark and thus more difficult to see things (including leaks some times), I've always thought body color looked more finished. 🙂

+1 on the return to body color option. You'll have a choice between single stage (like OE) and two stage processes, choose one to best match to current body finish. Going with body color will give the various engine bay bits the best opportunity to be seen.

OK, I will convert this stuff to it's own thread when I get a few more minutes to make it read right. In the meantime.... I have more pics. Here's a pic of one of the gauges. You can see the two different heating coils wrapped around two different "U" shaped bimetallic strips. Interesting to note that internets research indicates that "U" shape is part of the compensation as well. The concept is that the unheated side will compensate some for changes in ambient temperature. "They say" it doesn't get rid of all of the temperature based effects, but it helps some. Between that "U" shape and the compensation stage, the gauges seem to be really stable. So this is an example of the compensated gauge with the two stages: And here's a closer-upper pic of the compensation stage showing it's parts: The switch opens and closes to keep the temperature of the compensation strip at a constant temperature (ave). If you put a Voltmeter on the sender unit, you'll see that it isn't a steady voltage, but is instead a square wave.

I would definitely go back to body color, 918 orange also happens to be my favorite. 😃

@cgsheen1, consider it done! Thank you! Will report back with results. picking up fluid(AC) tonight. Hopefully change tomorrow!

Let me chime in on the transmission FILL and DRAIN plugs... (begin rant) I have no clue why people tighten these SO TIGHTLY! It's un-necessary. In my former life I was a licensed Journeyman Plumber (Ret.). Actually, I guess I still am a licensed Journeyman Plumber - just not employed as such... What in the crap does this have to do with transmissions you ask?? THOSE PLUGS ARE PIPE FITTINGS (well, they have pipe threads...) So, now that you know that I am eminently qualified to speak on the subject: - Go the Home Depot. Plumbing Department. BUY an entire roll of TEFLON TAPE. - Go home. Properly apply (ya, just wrap that sucker up with tape) the teflon tape following the manufacturers directions to the male threads of BOTH PLUGS - BEFORE you install them. - Tighten the plugs (BOTH PLUGS) ONLY ENOUGH so that they don't leak! There is NO pressure inside the transmission (like there is in your Natural Gas line or your galvanized water pipe) SO THE PLUG DOESN'T NEED 80 FT/LBS OF TORQUE. Seriously, you can practically screw them in by hand if you use teflon tape or good pipe dope (just kidding (exaggerating really) you need to snug them up.) But you really, really can stop over tightening those plugs. How do I know? Come and remove these plugs from MY transmission. Be a plumber - even if you don't want to - for me... (end rant);

Here is the engine. As I said above, Rebello 3.0. The cam is 27C-9, which I don’t know what that means in terms of lift and duration but I had asked Dave for a EFI street motor with some grunt. The compression is 10.2:1 so that cam will have to bleed off some compression for pump gas. The car will use a Haltech Elite 2500 for brains so you know I follow Duffy Mahoney every time he posts!

This holds my phone perfect but honestly, buy a television. Edit: smart television!

Yeah it has been a while since i worked on the car myself. but i decided it's time to assemble all t he small bits and pieces into "subassemblies" whever possible. Last week i worked on the moustache bar. So here we got the puzzle in single pieces: The powdercoating company also coated the inside of the bushing shells, so i cleaned them with the dremel tool Added som fresh Bushing grease: And in with the new bushings And all hardware combained. ready for installation. It looks like a simple thing, but if you think what work went into it: - Everything had to be disassembled from the car first - The moustache Bar got sandblasted - The bar got primered and powdercoated - Old Hardware fasteners got cleaned (in the rattler), zinc plated and yellow passivated - New OEM Nissan Locking nuts and washers ordered and added - New Polyurethane Bushings with bushing grease Hope to find some time for some other work again soon, it's fun after all ?

Crystal meth....helluva drug.

Those Tats look like he did them himself with a ball point pen.

Thanks to @Dr. 240Z An Engineer dies and goes to Hell. Dissatisfied with the level of comfort, he starts designing and building improvements. After a while, Hell has air conditioning, iced water, flush toilets, and escalators, and the Engineer is a pretty popular guy. One day God calls and asks Satan, "So, how are things going down there?" Satan says, “Why, things are going great. We've now got air conditioning, iced water, flush toilets and escalators, and there's no telling what this Engineer is going to come up with next!" God is horrified. "What? You've got an Engineer? That's clearly a mistake – he should never have gone down there! You know all Engineers go to Heaven. Send him up here immediately!!" Satan says, "No way, I really like having an Engineer on the staff. I’m keeping him." God says, "Send him back up here or I'll sue you.” "Yeah, right," Satan laughs, "and where are you going to get a lawyer?”