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pogden

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pogden last won the day on October 2 2020

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About pogden

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Phoenix
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z HLS30279639, Nov 1975 build date. Completely disassembled, painted original 240 Racing Green. Slowly putting everything back together. I can't wait to fire it up for the first time, but LOTS of things to do before then. Currently going through the wiring.

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  1. @SteveJ, @Captain Obvious - thanks for adding color to the charge lamp story. When I learned that the lamp was part of the alternator control circuit, I figured an LED might not be an appropriate replacement. Now if I can just figure out what causes my car to occasionally hesitate or jerk violently when pulling away from a stop or shifting into 2nd ...
  2. I chased a couple of electrical issues. My parking lights, tail lights, and instrument lights stopped working shortly after I took my dash partly apart for another problem. I discovered that the 15A fuse in my Dave Irwin (@Zs-ondabrain) parking light relay mod was blown. After a bit of further troubleshooting (and unnecessarily re-dismantling of my dashboard), I found the problem. While tidying up after my previous issue, I was re-tucking the wires behind the console and noticed a male and female bullet connector had fallen apart, which I just reconnected. Turns out, those connectors were powe
  3. I replaced the insert springs with new ones, but the inserts are NLA. I looked carefully at the springs and inserts from both the 1-2 and the 3-4 synchro hubs and they seemed fine. But I replaced the springs anyway. Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk
  4. +1 on the 38mm / 1.5in crowfoot cocked 90deg to the side. It's not exact, but if you shoot for the middle of the torque range you will be fine. My gears were lined up just like yours are. In one of the how-to videos I watched it was said that they lined up perfectly, which mine obviously didn't. When I looked at them closely, it seemed that flipping the countershaft gear might make things better, so I did that. It was a pain - the woodruff keys kept wanting to fall out - but I did it. Mine was definitely NOT flipped to begin with, but my transmission had definitely been half-assed rebuil
  5. Yes, the one below. This is the OD-Reverse Synchronizer Slider (in hand) and Hub (circled). The photo was taken from the rear of the transmission facing forward, and the the synchronizer hub is clearly oriented with the concentric groove aft, which is opposite of the diagram in the FSM.
  6. Jeff, I believe the spacer you are referring to exists in the later (close ratio) FS5W71B that was available in ~1981. The synchro design was changed, and the three-pronged spacer (32624 - I think it’s actually called an insert retainer) was part of that and it is indeed the first thing on the mainshaft behind the mainshaft bearing - on the later model transmission. Regarding the RockAuto kit, it does not contain any retaining rings. I assume you are referring to the "main drive bearing snap ring"? I just reused mine. I hope you can find one - it seems critical to the proper axial positio
  7. @Patcon, I just finished rebuilding my early FS5W71B. I encountered what I think is a discrepancy in the 79/80 FSMs, in the Manual Transmission Section. I meant to take a couple of pictures before putting the case back together so that I could post here to document the issue, but forgot. I'm hoping your transmission is in a state where you might be able to take the pictures I didn't. So, here's the thing: When installing the OD-Reverse Synchro Hub, the 1979 FSM says the following on page MT-16: Note: Assemble OD-reverse synchronizer hub, paying attention to its direction. It refers to t
  8. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    I had several of these made by a local machinist friend and am offering them for sale at my cost. They are for the early (1977-1980) "wide-ratio" FS5W71B 5-speed transmission. This nut is a replacement for the NLA Nissan parts (32354-E9804, 32354-E9802, 32354-E9800 and 32354-A7400); I was unsuccessful at finding a source for them anywhere in the world. Price *includes* USPS Priority Mail domestic shipping (currently costs $8.45), international will cost more.

    $45

    Phoenix, Arizona - US

  9. View Advert FS5W71B M27x1.0 main shaft nut - right hand thead I had several of these made by a local machinist friend and am offering them for sale at my cost. They are for the early (1977-1980) "wide-ratio" FS5W71B 5-speed transmission. They are NLA, and I was unsuccessful at finding a source for them anywhere in the world. Price *includes* USPS Priority Mail domestic shipping (currently costs $8.45), international will cost more. Advertiser pogden Date 02/27/20
  10. Sorry - late nite post on my iPad, must've somehow fat-fingered in an extra comma at the end of the URL. I fixed it in my post above, and here it is again: http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm
  11. @patcon, I saw your post earlier today and was wondering the same thing. I have a 4-speed in the shed, will try to find time to have a look. I haven’t started on my wide ratio yet, and I know mine came from a 79 ZX. It will be interesting to see whether mine has a RH or LH nut. This page has some interesting data, http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm and the company itself sells recycled parts. For what it’s worth, my transmission guy said they were very helpful in finding a “good” input shaft for my close ratio. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  12. I am going to rebuild my wide ratio FS5W71B, hopefully over the holidays. I bought the rebuild kit from RockAuto (and I confirm what zkars states in his thread: that the kit seems to be the same one sold in other places, and contains Japanese bearings). I bought all the other stuff on EuroDat’s list (seals, main shaft and countershaft nuts, oil gutter, detent balls and springs, ...) from Nissan (Courtesy, I think, but I will check tomorrow if you want). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  13. I bought it on eBay, yes, and no, it wasn’t very expensive. I believe it was from Newark Auto. It fits very well, and seems to be well made. My only complaint is the lack of slits in the rear piece for cargo straps. I can add photos if you are interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  14. I bought it on eBay, yes, and no, it wasn’t very expensive. I believe it was from Newark Auto. It fits very well, and seems to be well made. My only complaint is the lack of slits in the rear piece for cargo straps. I can add photos if you are interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  15. I used various sizes of adhesive-backed insulation strips from the hardware store. They are sold in coils and should be with the door and window insulation stuff. Some worked better than others - the main problem I had was than some of them had crappy adhesive. Overall, it worked fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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