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pogden

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About pogden

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Phoenix
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z HLS30279639, Nov 1975 build date. Completely disassembled, painted original 240 Racing Green. Slowly putting everything back together. I can't wait to fire it up for the first time, but LOTS of things to do before then. Currently going through the wiring.

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  1. I guess the spinning screws were probably over-tightened, which either stripped the plastic threads on the housing or cracked the the plastic around the holes. Either way, the friction between the housing and the screws is probably enough to hold it somewhat securely, but maybe you can gently wiggle or pry the housing back away from the panel, at lease enough to grab the screws with pliers and wiggle/twist them out? When repairing the holes, I would be tempted to use a tooth pick or two liberally coated with expoxy to fill the holes, then drill them out with a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the screws, giving them something to bite into.
  2. I too can confirm Zed’s 92mm number. I just replaced my clutch and it works great with the “long” sleeve that was already on the car. Glad you replaced the pilot bushing, the old one looked pretty far gone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. ^ This. Every trimmer/upholsterer I’ve talked to is reluctant to try refurbishing Z door panels that don’t have good (not wavy and water-damaged) Masonite cards to begin with. They just don’t think they can restore the panel itself, and therefore the end result will be a wavy, deformed panel nicely covered in view vinyl. I’ve seen reproduction 240Z panels, and 77-78 280Z panels, it nobody seems to produce panels for 260Z and early 280Z. 4-5 years ago I did find an aftermarket set for my 76 from a seller in BC, and I bought them. Years later, when I was ready to fit them, I found that not a single cutout or hole was in the right place (except for the lock knob). Canadian Z’s must be an inch shorter than the ones sent to the US ... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  4. I am by no means an expert, but here is my recent experience that sounds similar to yours. I am 5 years into the restoration of a 76 280Z that did not run when I bought it. I was told, by the PO, that it had been driven a couple of months before I bought it, but I don't know that to be true. I swapped the 4-speed for a rebuilt close-ratio 5-speed , but (like an idiot) I did not replace the clutch. The clutch disc was supposedly new, and to my untrained eye the pressure plate looked ok. Fast forward to a month ago when I got the car running for the first time. It was still on jackstands, so I decided to run it through the gears - no dice. It shifted fine with the engine off, but with it running it just wouldn't go into gear, and like you I didn't want to force it. I had recently replaced the master and slave cylinders, blown out the lines, added fluid, and bled the system. I checked the travel on the slave cylinder while a friend (and Z expert) pushed the clutch - it smoothly moved the clutch fork about an inch, maybe a bit more. My friend suggested double-clutching (clutch to the floor, back up, then back to the floor), and it actually worked. By double-clutching, I was able to shift through gears 1-5, though it wasn't exactly smooth. Reverse was still a no-go. The local consensus was a clutch problem, so I dropped the transmission and removed the clutch. I bought a new M-pact kit from ZCarSource (just down the street from me here in north Phoenix), installed it, and it shifts beautifully now. Having said that and just read EuorDat's and Zed's suggestions, it's possible my clutch disc was seized (i.e., not sliding along the splines of the input shaft) - I never thought of that. When I installed the new clutch, I followed the directions in the FSM - I carefully lubed the splines (with the little tube of purple lube supplied with the clutch kit), mated the disc to the splines and ensured it slid back and forth nicely, and wiped off the extra before bolting the clutch assembly to the flywheel. It's possible I either omitted this step or used the wrong lube when I first installed the 5-speed several years ago.
  5. Thank You to podgen & all Z-car owners who go to great efforts to document the activities they have completed.

    CRShowers

  6. BTW, I bought the U-channel from McMaster-Carr - 10ft of part no. 24175K63 "U-Channel Push-on Trim Flame-Retardant, 3/16" Wide X 13/32" High Inside". Here are a few pictures of the process and the end result. It was much more of a PITA than it should have been. Windshield part of the roof rail with padding glued on and vinyl pinched into place with u-channel molding. . I trimmed the padding to be the full width of the rail, but only applied glue to the wide flat part so that the u-channel could fit under it (allowing the padding to overlap the u-channel). When gluing the vinyl in place, I started in the center and worked my way to the sides. I did not apply glue to the padding, hoping that it would make it easier (and more forgiving) to get the vinyl stretched properly into place. I still ended up with some wrinkles in the corners, where the sun visors attach. Here's the pinch molding attached to passenger side roof rail. And, then end result:
  7. I just installed this kit not too long ago. It does have lots of extra material so you do need to trim it. The kit is also missing the pinch molding (also called steel reinforced rubber u-channel) you may need if yours is missing. It’s used to secure one edge of the trim pieces to the roof rail before wrapping them down and around and gluing the other edge. It’s possible to install without the pinch molding, but I thought it would give me a way to get the pieces lined up in an “undoable” way, and I’m glad I did. I glued the padding in place first and trimmed it, then pinched the windshield piece in place. Repeated with the side pieces, doing the roof rail part first, then the A-pillars. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Modified my Dave Irwin headlight relay harness by replacing the 240Z non-weatherproof connectors with Delphi WeatherPack connectors. I did not want to hack up my original 280Z headlight pigtails with their impossible-to-find Yazaki YPC connectors.
  9. The fuel sending unit on my 76 cleaned up nicely in EvapORust (best stuff ever), but failed when I tested it with a multimeter. ZcarSource here in Phoenix refurbished it nicely. If it matters, I can try to find the receipt, but I can say from experience that 280z fuel senders just don’t exist. Out of curiosity, has anyone tried a 240z sender in a 280z? They seem to be readily available, and I wonder if maybe the only thing you would lose is the fuel warning light (which often seems to not work very well anyway). Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Dr. Dave is right. Dash caps look and feel cheap, and mine (installed by the PO) didn't fit very well. I attempted to restore my severely cracked 280Z dash, spent hours filling and sanding until I thought it looked good, textured it and then painted it. It looks WAY better than before, but a year later a couple of hairline cracks have appeared. It's not even back in the car yet and has never been exposed to the Arizona sun. A new dash pad seems like the only option. @theguppies, I'm seriously interested in your dash pad. I'm sure you are busy trying to get your new business off the ground. Any details you can give about your materials, process, testing, or end results will be really appreciated. Not asking you to disclose anything proprietary, just the sort of information that will make people want to buy your product.
  11. Voicing my *serious* interest in a 280Z version as well. I spent days refurbishing mine and it looks ... okay ..., but I'm not sure it's going to last. Would love to buy a new one.
  12. I recently experienced this exact issue when installing new motor mounts on my 76. It was late at night so I don't quite remember how I did it, but I filed/Dremeled/angle-grindered maybe 1/3 of the peg away a little at a time before it finally succumbed to my BFH (well, probably my rubber mallet) and slipped into place. I think the aftermarket part is just made wrong, but the rest of it seemed identical to the original. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  13. pogden

    Paint Selection

    Greg - I'm very happy to see these pictures of your car in 240 Racing Green. My 76 280Z is at the body shop right now being painted in the same color (which it was originally). I debated for quite a while on the color, your pictures make me certain of my decision - your car looks fantastic. I'll post pictures at some point, though mine is in a million pieces and will take me some time to put back together. BTW, I'm going two-stage as well. Peter
  14. Dropped the fuel tank and the drive shaft (er, propeller shaft). Hardlines are next, and finally the engine and gearbox. Then, roll it into a trailer and get it down to the body shop. Does anyone have a recommendation for how to safely store the windshield and hatch glass for a few months? I assume it needs to be vertical, bit I don't want to just lean it against a wall - it WILL get broken if I do that. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  15. I think my favorite thing about this forum is the narrative around rear suspension work. I'm not there yet, but when the time comes I will feel like a girl if I can't regale you all with a tale of fire, swearing, BFHs, 2 ton hydraulic presses and other inventive tactics for getting the best of spindle pins and related parts. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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