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About pogden

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  • Member ID: 29992

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pogden last won the day on October 2 2020

pogden had the most liked content!


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  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z HLS30279639, Nov 1975 build date. Completely disassembled, painted original 240 Racing Green. Slowly putting everything back together. I can't wait to fire it up for the first time, but LOTS of things to do before then. Currently going through the wiring.

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  1. Ferg, I refurbed a 240Z steering wheel because I liked the way it looks. But like you, I don’t care much for how thin it is. I bought a “Compe” wheel from a guy in Japan (I’m guessing it’s the same as what ZCarDepot sells) and like it way more. It looks good, the horn works, and I have not found it necessary to bend the turn signal lever to keep from accidentally hitting it while driving. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  2. That’s awesome. I really hope that with the marriage to Renault going asunder and some excitement building around the new Z, Nissan can claw its way back to relevance. Showing appreciation to loyal customers is another step in the right direction.
  3. I agree with Yarb, the shredded straps are hangers for the e-brake cable. Mine look just like yours. Haven’t found a suitable replacement, but it seems to be the same stuff the muffler hangers are made of.
  4. When I did this I removed only the smallest two rings of the snubber cone. Mine does fit tight against the differential which is what I wanted for the time being (trying to remove all play from the driveline). There is some noise/vibration but t it's not terrible, and I honestly can't say for sure that it's due to the RT snubber. If you don't want any normal contact with the differential then you should probably shave off the next half a ring. Just a data point - the previous suggestion of trying various sizes of socket seems like a great idea. Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk
  5. This past weekend I installed an RT mount (without the optional top mount) and a new OEM differential isolator in my 76 280Z. It is doable without completely removing the diff and rear suspension, but it's kind of fiddly. I'll try to do a full write up this evening, while it's all still fresh in my head, so I can make it easier for you. On my car, which has an R200, I removed 4 sections of the cone-shaped RT mount bumper to achieve a tight fit - essentially sandwiching the nose of the diff firmly between the isolator and the cone. When I was done, I took it for a short spin and did not notice any vibration/harmonics/noises that weren't there before, but I should probably drive it a bit more before saying that for sure. @Av8ferg, if you decide you do need to replace your isolator, I have an extra brand new OEM one I'll sell you way below the retail price. Because I'm an idiot. I ordered one years ago in anticipation of the day I would install the RT top mount, and then a couple of weeks ago when I finally decided to do the job I thought "might as well replace the isolator at the same time" and so I ordered (another) one.
  6. I thought about using the cloth tape, but was not planning on rewrapping my entire harness and thought it would look better if everything was wrapped in vinyl. I ended up rewrapping almost everything anyway, so I guess it wouldn't have mattered. As Chuck says, you can finish end with a wrap of adhesive electrical tape to keep the non-adhesive tape from unraveling. There's also a way to tie it off by splitting and knotting the last few inches, but I never got that to work in a way that looked good. BTW, it seemed to me that the way the factory harness was wrapped was pretty clever. If you imagine one of the harness sections being a "tree" where the trunk is at the big end and branches are where the individual smaller connectors are - you start at the farthest branch, wrap a little ways past the first "Y" and then cut. Then you wrap the next farthest branch past where the first wrap stopped and keep going till you pass the next branch, and cut. The you wrap that next branch from its tip back to the bigger branch and carry on to the next branch, and so on. In most cases, you can do the whole harness section like this and only have to secure the final cut, at the "trunk", with tape.
  7. When rewrapping parts of my 76 280Z engine and dash harnesses I used non-adhesive vinyl harness tape. It’s what the factory used, it’s easy to work with and won’t turn into a sticky mess like regular electrical tape will over time. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Seems like your carbs need adjusting. It looks like the "fast idle screw" has some play (meaning, it's not the forcing the throttle mechanism open), which is good. Maybe just back the throttle adjustment screws on each carb off 1/4 turn at a time until the idle sounds right. I'm not sure how the ballast resistor could cause a high idle - I think it functioned to allow a hotter spark during start, followed by a somewhat tamer spark for normal running.
  9. View Advert FS5W71B M27x1.0 main shaft nut - right hand thread I had several of these made by a local machinist friend and am offering them for sale at my cost. They are for the early (1977-1980) "wide-ratio" FS5W71B 5-speed transmission. This nut is a replacement for the NLA Nissan parts (32354-E9804, 32354-E9802, 32354-E9800 and 32354-A7400); I was unsuccessful at finding a source for them anywhere in the world. Price *includes* USPS Priority Mail domestic shipping (currently costs $8.70), international will cost more. Advertiser pogden Date 01/12/2022 Price $45 Category Parts for Sale  

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    I had several of these made by a local machinist friend and am offering them for sale at my cost. They are for the early (1977-1980) "wide-ratio" FS5W71B 5-speed transmission. This nut is a replacement for the NLA Nissan parts (32354-E9804, 32354-E9802, 32354-E9800 and 32354-A7400); I was unsuccessful at finding a source for them anywhere in the world. Price *includes* USPS Priority Mail domestic shipping (currently costs $8.70), international will cost more.


    , Arizona

  11. This weekend I started refurbishing the driver's seat of my 280Z. Did the passenger seat last week (leather covers and new foam from Interior Innovations). Aside from a small crack in the seat back sheet metal (which I tried to reinforce with fiberglass), the passenger seat was fairly straightforward - cleaning everything up from previous owner's work took more time than actually fitting the foam and covers. The driver's seat is a bit more challenging because one of the metal rods on seat bottom that the hog rings attach to was cut off. I've made a new one and a friend of a friend will weld it on this coming weekend.
  12. @Dolfinz, I have a boroscope, some extra unused valve stem seals that I'm hopefully never going to use, and the right size rope for filling the cylinder (if it comes to that). I'm in North Phoenix (~Tatum and Deer Valley), will PM you my phone number and we can talk. I'm about 10% as knowledgeable as the other guys who have been helping out, but I'm local and happy to help if I can. Word of warning: I'm not a Z whisperer, though maybe someday ... Today, I did my first oil change on my own rebuilt L28, re-torqued the head bolts, and adjusted the valve lash. And now it idles and runs like crap. I'm hoping that I just don't yet have the "feel" for my feeler gauge and that I just got a couple of intake valves a little tight. The ups and downs of Z-itis.
  13. Really sorry to hear about your engine, but there are a bunch of Z guys here in Phoenix and maybe we can help. [mention]Randalla [/mention] [mention]cgsheen [/mention] [mention]duffman [/mention] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  14. This was actually yesterday, but [mention=17919]randalla[/mention] and I went to a local Cars and Coffee in Scottsdale. We're definitely at the low end of the cars that show up, but get more than our share of attention. The Delorean next to me looked brand new, the Jensen Healey next to Randy was sweet as well. Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk
  15. @SteveJ, @Captain Obvious - thanks for adding color to the charge lamp story. When I learned that the lamp was part of the alternator control circuit, I figured an LED might not be an appropriate replacement. Now if I can just figure out what causes my car to occasionally hesitate or jerk violently when pulling away from a stop or shifting into 2nd ...
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