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About pogden

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    Software Engineer

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  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z HLS30279639, Nov 1975 build date. Completely disassembled, painted original 240 Racing Green. Slowly putting everything back together. I can't wait to fire it up for the first time, but LOTS of things to do before then. Currently going through the wiring.

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  1. BTW, I bought the U-channel from McMaster-Carr - 10ft of part no. 24175K63 "U-Channel Push-on Trim Flame-Retardant, 3/16" Wide X 13/32" High Inside". Here are a few pictures of the process and the end result. It was much more of a PITA than it should have been. Windshield part of the roof rail with padding glued on and vinyl pinched into place with u-channel molding. . I trimmed the padding to be the full width of the rail, but only applied glue to the wide flat part so that the u-channel could fit under it (allowing the padding to overlap the u-channel). When gluing the vinyl in place, I started in the center and worked my way to the sides. I did not apply glue to the padding, hoping that it would make it easier (and more forgiving) to get the vinyl stretched properly into place. I still ended up with some wrinkles in the corners, where the sun visors attach. Here's the pinch molding attached to passenger side roof rail. And, then end result:
  2. I just installed this kit not too long ago. It does have lots of extra material so you do need to trim it. The kit is also missing the pinch molding (also called steel reinforced rubber u-channel) you may need if yours is missing. It’s used to secure one edge of the trim pieces to the roof rail before wrapping them down and around and gluing the other edge. It’s possible to install without the pinch molding, but I thought it would give me a way to get the pieces lined up in an “undoable” way, and I’m glad I did. I glued the padding in place first and trimmed it, then pinched the windshield piece in place. Repeated with the side pieces, doing the roof rail part first, then the A-pillars. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. Modified my Dave Irwin headlight relay harness by replacing the 240Z non-weatherproof connectors with Delphi WeatherPack connectors. I did not want to hack up my original 280Z headlight pigtails with their impossible-to-find Yazaki YPC connectors.
  4. The fuel sending unit on my 76 cleaned up nicely in EvapORust (best stuff ever), but failed when I tested it with a multimeter. ZcarSource here in Phoenix refurbished it nicely. If it matters, I can try to find the receipt, but I can say from experience that 280z fuel senders just don’t exist. Out of curiosity, has anyone tried a 240z sender in a 280z? They seem to be readily available, and I wonder if maybe the only thing you would lose is the fuel warning light (which often seems to not work very well anyway). Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Dr. Dave is right. Dash caps look and feel cheap, and mine (installed by the PO) didn't fit very well. I attempted to restore my severely cracked 280Z dash, spent hours filling and sanding until I thought it looked good, textured it and then painted it. It looks WAY better than before, but a year later a couple of hairline cracks have appeared. It's not even back in the car yet and has never been exposed to the Arizona sun. A new dash pad seems like the only option. @theguppies, I'm seriously interested in your dash pad. I'm sure you are busy trying to get your new business off the ground. Any details you can give about your materials, process, testing, or end results will be really appreciated. Not asking you to disclose anything proprietary, just the sort of information that will make people want to buy your product.
  6. Voicing my *serious* interest in a 280Z version as well. I spent days refurbishing mine and it looks ... okay ..., but I'm not sure it's going to last. Would love to buy a new one.
  7. I recently experienced this exact issue when installing new motor mounts on my 76. It was late at night so I don't quite remember how I did it, but I filed/Dremeled/angle-grindered maybe 1/3 of the peg away a little at a time before it finally succumbed to my BFH (well, probably my rubber mallet) and slipped into place. I think the aftermarket part is just made wrong, but the rest of it seemed identical to the original. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  8. pogden

    Paint Selection

    Greg - I'm very happy to see these pictures of your car in 240 Racing Green. My 76 280Z is at the body shop right now being painted in the same color (which it was originally). I debated for quite a while on the color, your pictures make me certain of my decision - your car looks fantastic. I'll post pictures at some point, though mine is in a million pieces and will take me some time to put back together. BTW, I'm going two-stage as well. Peter
  9. Dropped the fuel tank and the drive shaft (er, propeller shaft). Hardlines are next, and finally the engine and gearbox. Then, roll it into a trailer and get it down to the body shop. Does anyone have a recommendation for how to safely store the windshield and hatch glass for a few months? I assume it needs to be vertical, bit I don't want to just lean it against a wall - it WILL get broken if I do that. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  10. I think my favorite thing about this forum is the narrative around rear suspension work. I'm not there yet, but when the time comes I will feel like a girl if I can't regale you all with a tale of fire, swearing, BFHs, 2 ton hydraulic presses and other inventive tactics for getting the best of spindle pins and related parts. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Hi everyone - this is my first post on this forum, but I've been a heavy reader for the past couple of months. Amazing knowledge shared here! I made good progress over the weekend disassembling my 76 280z in anticipation of a late-June trip to the body shop for some new paint. Wiring harnesses are out, dash and HVAC are out. Most of the hydraulics in the engine bay are out (PO had apparently didn't know the difference between a flare nut wrench and channel locks, so I guess I will learn how to flare and maybe even bend brake lines. Lots of dull, corroded fasteners and fittings. Thinking of trying my hand at replating them myself while the Z is in the shop, but that leads me to consider buying a vibratory tumbler in order to get everything cleaned up first.