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$500 is cheap for an LSD and the Subaru route will set you back more than $500. These cars take a lot of money to handle the kind of power you are talking about. In reality you really can't get it all to the ground with out a lot of work, maybe not at all. When you run that kind of power (approximately 4x's what the car had stock) you are going to break just about everything at some point. Unless you have 30-40k to put into it you should reevaluate your project. You basically have to re-engineer the entire car. My 2 cents

I love my '87 d21 but it's worthless in snow. It snows here MAYBE once a year so not a problem. 357,000 on the clock without any major work. Damn fine trucks!

Yup. Signed in 10/15/14, last visited 10/21/14. I sense a lack of commitment. Dennis

http://www.topgear.com/india/features/car/we-came-across-a-datsun-museum-and-we-want-to-show-it-to-you-all-12920.html

My D21is getting old now, and I don't have to worry about beating it up and finding body parts... Yet haha. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

So here is a side-by-side pic of the Original Carb filter and the Injector filter sent by @grannyknot. Looks like this may work if the injector filter is not too long (I guess I could file some to make it fit lengthwise if needed). From the carb design, it looks like the open end of the Carb filter is 'capped' by the bolt that holds it in place. Since that is the case, looks like the closed end of the injector filter will be OK as is. It's actually a nice design for filter replacement since you just remove the short bolt on the side of the carb to access the filter. I checked the filters in some of the other carbs and they were pretty much completely disintegrated. I guess that happens with age. I know, the challenges that we here in San Diego face with our weather is tough. If its not 80 degrees and sunny, we have a hard time with things. I think there has been a run on jackets at Costco...and I have to wear socks.

The original post was over 4 years ago before this thread got resurrected. I don't think we ever heard back from him so he likely either moved on or found a car (probably for more than 4K) by now. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

What is your budget? Here is my 2¢. Consider starting with a Miata or Porsche Boxster. You can find them relatively affordable, and they have better parts availability than our cars, especially for suspension parts! Horsepower and torque move the car, but the suspension and tires are what will make the car drive fast. Dollar for dollar, either one of those cars will be closer to ready than an early Z. Keep in mind that Miatas and Boxsters are depreciating. Z cars are shooting up (at least until more of us old farts drop out of the market). They also are safer than a stock Z. Consider starting with SCCA Autocrossing. If you find a good instructor (and most local groups have at least one), you learn how to control your car. It's much better to learn how to set up a line in a parking lot than coming down from the bridge at Road Atlanta down toward the concrete wall. The Mitty is coming up in April at Road Atlanta. It is a vintage racing event that draws a fair number of Z cars. I've attended it for a number of years and have made many friends among the participants. I can introduce you to someone who took a former 240Z race car and dropped an LS3 into it for a track day car. I can also introduce you to the guy who resurrected the BRE 240Z. He will have John Morton, the original BRE driver, driving the car again. Greg Ira, a multiple SCCA champ in Z cars may also be there. You can find out about the Mitty at http://www.hsrrace.com. If you insist upon a Z, learn to drive it stock and work on it before you try to do much in the way of modifications. An engine/transmission swap can be a good way of finding the next part to fail (like a half shaft or brakes). Get the suspension, tires and brakes ready first. You'll find a lot of dead, worn-out bushings and other suspension component problems in a lot of Z cars. Replace the seatbelts! Don't rely upon 40++ year old belts to stop your body if you mess up. If you want to install a cage, get recommendations from track guys for the best welders they know. These cars are like beer cans compared to modern cars, and a good cage could make the difference. If you do a cage, get 4 point belts mounted properly at a minimum for track days.

Woohoo! Driver side welded in. Straight and true.... So it is spot welded in for now. I will finish the seam welding and cleanup on the rotisserie once it is off the jig. Welding out of position SUCKS!!! Time to start in on the bad side .... Nice firewall Rail cut out easily enough though .... ‘ Check out all the rust that came out of this rail .... +1 for the jig. Glad I didn’t try to put that directly on to the rotisserie ....

A trip down Memory Lane. I attended an aircraft safety school course at Lowry about 1976. Spent a little time around B52s as an aircraft maintenance officer at March AFB in California and K.I. Sawyer in the UP of Michigan. Hard to believe the B52 has been around since 1955 and the planes are now older than the people flying in them. Thanks for the time trip! Dennis

Hello all, my name is Lee Grimes and I am the Automotive Product Manager for KONI Shocks. I have been working with Greg and Joseph to get these new Z-car parts to market and help answer some questions. He pointed me to this discussion to maybe give some clarity or assistance. I won't be able to stay as a regular contributor but I will be happy to check in for a little bit to help people understand the new parts. A bit over a year ago, Motorsport Auto came to KONI to see if we could revive and modernize our offering for the early 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX. Needless to say we jumped at the chance to offer proper products for these important cars. Off and on through the years KONI has offered the tradtional red painted KONI Special strut inserts with internal (off the car) adjustment for 240Z through 280ZX. In the late '70s-and early '80s KONI also offered an externally adjustable version for these cars excluding the ZX but they were discontinued by the mid-'80s. Now was time for an update. With Motorsport Auto as an exclusive partner stepping up to take full production run volume, we developed and tested new externally rebound adjustable (knob adjustable on the car) yellow painted KONI Sport strut inserts for these cars and a externally adjustable rear shock for the ZX. We started with the external adjustables from the 1980s as the launching point and even used the same part numbers this time with the SPORT suffix in the part numbers. We then updated the internals a bit (it was no slouch to begin with back then though) to more modern seals and guide components and set the valving to work well with either factory stock springs (starting baseline adjustment at or near full soft) or performance lowering springs for perforamnce street, autocross, track day, etc. use (starting baseline adjustment about 1/2-3/4 turn up from full soft setting). Like all KONIs, the adjustment range is about 100% so they are twice as firm at the maximum setting than at the minimum setting. This is a very large range of adjustment so we suggest that you start in the lower end of the range, drive it for a bit to get a feeling for it, and then tune accordingly from there for your ride and handling preference. I think it will be very rare that people will use more than 1 turn (about 50% higher than full soft) for normal use when they are new. Because the adjustment range is so large, it allows you to compensate for wear over extended time, tune it high for an autocross or track day, and then quickly turn it back down for street use. Because the range is so large, it is possible to overdamp the car for your needs and actually make it more harsh and have less grip than needed so do not just turn it way up figuring that "more is always better". Although these could be used for a dedicated track and racing car, their needs and expectations are different and we do have other racing options (e.g. 8610 RACE and 8611 RACE) where street handling and ride quality, high mileage longevity, etc. are no longer important. These new Z-car Sports are targetted to take you from stock Z- car to just shy of all out racing. They carry KONI's limited lifetime warranty against defects and materials to the original purchaser as long as tht person owns the car registerd for street use. Regarding the discussion about bump rubbers, you can use a good condition OE type bump rubber for a Z-car, one of the black urethane ones that Motorsport Auto sells, or the KONI Racing Silastic bump tops made for use on a 22mm piston rod. KONI does not have a specific bump stop length suggestions as different ride heights and springs will determine what length you need. The imporant part is that you have some bump rubber installed to keep the strut or shock from bottoming out internally which can cause internal damage that will cause loss of function and will not be covered under warranty. The first production runs of the fronts and rears for the 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z are currently in-transit from KONI in The Netherlands due in mid-March. The 280ZX fronts are in-transit as well but the 280ZX rear shocks are awaiting final production due to to different compponent sourcing but will be here ASAP. Please be clear that these were specifically developed only for these Z-car applications and they are not crossovers from ome other vehicle. Because these parts are exclusive to Motorsport Auto and no other KONI dealer has access to them, we will not be listing these part numbers on our official KONI websites for North America www.koni-na.com or Europe www.koni.com. If you have any questions, pelase contact our Technical Staff at info@koni-na.com or 859-586-4100 Option 6 from M-F 8-5 Eastern time.

Motorsport has joined forces with KONI to create an exciting new product, one of the most requested upgrades for early Z-Cars we've had, to replace (and improve upon) the long-departed Tokico HP & Illumina Adjustable Struts. Completely new, constructed specifically for 70-83 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, & 280ZX, these externally-rebound-adjustable, twin-tube low pressure gas-charged KONI Sport (Yellow) Struts are designed for use on both stock & modified street cars, as well as autocross & track day cars. Built to give a good balance of street ride quality and handling at the softer end of the adjustment range, the KONI Sports can easily be tuned up to nearly double the rebound damping force for more aggressive control needs: simply open the hood or rear hatch and turn the KONI adjuster knob. Not only can you tailor the struts to your local road conditions (and to your taste), you can also quickly and easily change the settings for a blast at a weekend autocross or mountain run, then easily re-set them for a relaxed ride home. Whatever suspension behavior you need is literally at your fingertips. Also, if you race on different tracks and race conditions, the adjustable damping gives you an edge in setting up your car specifically for any track or autocross course. Koni believes they will work great with Eibach Springs, and will be fine with even lower springs, as long as a proper bump stop is used. Let us know if you have any questions, James@TheZStore & I will get you an answer. The first shipment, for 70-8/74 240Z & Early 260Z, is expected to arrive in the U.S. this March. We expect to receive the 9/74-78 Late 260Z & 280Z Struts 3-4 weeks later, and then the 79-83 280ZX Struts/Spring Seats 3-4 weeks after that. To reserve your set from the first shipment, the Pre-Sale is on now at https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04

Our heat pumps pull humidity and blow hot air. It's very humid here. I can't sleep without my noisemaker. Neighbors slamming car doors, dogs barking and loud car stereos. Drinking helps!

@Familyz - a side note about the "@" usage - you actually have to select the user name that pops up... sometimes just typing in a few letters will narrow down your choices... As far as the location map goes - it appears I'm living in a ditch right close to a runway on Oceana Master Jet Base.... I mean, I love the sound of freedom and all, but sheesh.

An infected conehead, hurts when I pee.

@wal280z thanks for the heads up don't even remember doing that, fixed it. Ill make sure to ground it before turning the key lol.?

Yep, also, for those who don't know or tend to forget (like me), anything posted prior to the last server migration (2015????) lost all notifications if they were subscribed to the thread. Just an observation.

Yes oil prices fluctuate....I wish milk and beer would burn... they are stable in price. Heating oil is similar to diesel fuel but lower in price due to less tax. It is dyed so that smart people do not put it in their diesel vehicles to save $$ The oil burner is simply a single injector and high pressure fuel pump with a blower. Sort of like a small flame thrower. There are many tools for measuring the efficiency, soot byproduct, and correct ratios of fuel to air. I overhauled the burner and set the air fuel mixture by flame colour. When I called the "burner guy" for a check and tune, I was less than 2% off the mark. Another colour tune example lol. https://youtu.be/H8-7kyD7b28?t=488

Truck and a hose. I watch the spot price sometimes to try to save a few dollars.

Oil in my engine, propane in my BBQ! Natural Gas in both house and shop... Out west we don't have houses running oil anymore. That's an Irving monopoly! actually my BBQ is LNG too...

The man who popularized the phrase "assembly is reverse of disassembly" has passed away. I was looking for a service manual 26 years ago after I purchased my Z. I had no idea factory manuals might be available. First I found the Chiltons manual, but it covered the S30, S130, and Z31 in the same book, so it wasn't that useful. Then I found the Haynes manual, and in comparison to the Chiltons, I felt I struck gold. I still remember using the Haynes manual to figure out how to replace the vent hoses in my 240Z since it had photos that the FSM lacked. https://haynes.com/en-gb/john-harold-haynes-obe-obituary And if you ever need to service your carrier fighter, who else could you turn to? https://haynes.com/en-gb/grumman-f-14-tomcat-manual I'm glad Mr. Haynes believed there was a need for his services. He was correct.

This option seems like a good one. A reputable manufacturer. It's a carrier swap so a little more involved than a bolt-in Whitehead diff. It's new, not used, although Nissan diffs seem to last many many miles with no issues. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/ Anybody noticing how you can't just paste a link anymore? You have to use the little link function at the top. Weird. Sometimes a paste works sometimes it doesn't.

I've had my Haynes 240Z manual since the early 1980's, I think. Dog-eared, grease-smeared, binding disintegrated, but still a great resource. I think I got my money's worth.

Buying the pre-made is definitely plan B. I am going to give it a shot after I figure out the firewall. What’s the worst that can happen ??

The red arrow points to the supply. The yellow points to the return. When the float bowls are full, the floats block more fuel from coming into the carburetors, so the fuel that the fuel pump is pushing through the line needs to go somewhere. That somewhere is back to the tank via the return line.

The original post is from 2014 so I think he gave up. Lol

Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knees hit the bottom of the steering wheel when using the brake and the clutch on my 521.

Hey Congrats, I love a good engine swap and yours looks great, I can see all the work you have done to snug the engine in there and you have done some very good work. Do you have any pics of the engine mounts? But sort of like what Patcon said in post #9 you started with the fun, exciting part ( the engine) but really should have started with the hard part of the job, the re engineering of and old rubbery 280z. Sure there are Z's out there with 800 hp but those cars have had considerable stiffening added or the 800hp is just bragging rights and the car is undriveable. You might want to dial back the power until you have stiffened the car, wouldn't want to put a permanent twist in the frame Over on the Hybridz forum there are hundreds of threads that deal specifically with this topic, here is a current thread, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127659-another-datsun-zls3t56-swap-thread/ by Ironhead, he has done amazing work reworking the car to handle the power output of an LS engine. The easiest way to add strength and stiffness to your 280 is to add an internal roll cage that extends into the engine bay and back behind the rear wheels. Have a look through those 9 pages to get some ideas.

Ah come on Private Obvious. Or is that something different for boat captains or commercial icons?

Angled feeler gauge,14mm and 17mm wrenches plus 17mm crows foot is all you need. I started out rolling my car to get the lobes up but buying a remote starter was a lot easier. The lobes come 2 at a time so to get it done quicker I made a cardboard, actually a piece of a beer box, template i guess you could call it with 12 spots. Intake and exhaust with the numbers written on there. Do the two and mark them off as you go. I put mine under the passenger wiper. Let me see if i can find it... Hold the 14mm while you tighten the 17mm. They'll turn on you and get out of spec. Good luck. Once and you're a pro, simple to do after you figure it out. Oh yeah, the motor is tilted. Take a Sharpie and draw a center line on the cam towers to use for getting the lobes pointed up right.

No, unfortunately the 280 temp sensor did not fit correctly into that hole.. And that's one of the things I did to the 260 housing was to figure out a way to make that sensor fit. The temp sensor is straight threads and seals with a washer, so not only is the thread pitch wrong, but the sealing style is wrong too. I wasn't thinking this at first, but my project is actually relatively applicable to what you want to do, isn't it? So here's what I did to get that sensor to fit... First, I drilled out the original hole some: Tapped it to a straight thread. 5/8-18 I believe: And them made a brass adapter to bring the hole size back to what is necessary for the temp sensor: A little blue threadlock so the sensor will turn before the adapter will, and glue the adapter into the housing. Then thread the sensor into the adapter: All that said... That's why I think it would be easier to just use an adapter to the other larger hole. That option was not available to me because I had plans for that other hole. I use the larger hole to supply water to my throttle body. I'll check all the sizes when I get a couple moments in the shop.

...internally regulated 120 AMP alternator with Heim joint tensioner... GM 12Si alt. In my thread there is a "how to" on modding the mount.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfnDq4R6hOQ

The only hole on the 260 thermostat housing that is NOT tapered threads is the one closest to the head where the temp gauge sender unit goes. Everything else is BSPT. Now as for the sizes... I don't remember offhand. I did a whole bunch of modification to a 260 housing and adapted it to use on my 280, but like many of my projects (when I don't think anyone else could possibly benefit from the details), I didn't keep good notes. The project is done and it worked out great, but I don't have the sizes documented. I can tell you, however, that there is nothing 5/8 BSPT in the 260 housing. That's too big. I believe he largest hole in the 260 housing is 1/2 BSPT which is great because it's the same thread pitch (14 threads / inch) as 1/2 NPT. So I just ran a 1/2-14 NPT tap into the original BSP hole and converted mine from BSPT to NPT. Then you can use easy to find adapters to change from there if necessary. At least that's what I think I did... I'll double check the sizes and let you know for sure.

Studied SAC Logistics - SAC was updating and automating their entire supply chain. We all loved Denver. Returned there for the 1996 ZCCA Convention hosted by the Z Car Club of Colorado - great group of Z enthusiasts. Didn't realize the base was shut down.. real shame, Denver is a beautiful place.

I was stationed at Lowry AFB 1968, studied weapons systems on F100, F105,, F111, and F4 c,d & e aircraft .

Lowry was a victim of a BRAC and closed in 1994. The property was given back to city and it became a mixed use area of housing, light industrial, shopping and dining. The old hanger area became a beer garden!

Here'a my contribution to the thread. My 1973 green and tan, circa 1992 taken at the former Lowry Air Force Base in Colorado. After I sold it in California in 1997, it made its way up to Canada.

Hi again! Another great weekend!! The Z is getting shape!!! And all the weekend was dedicated to it! Now it looks like a Z…I’m very happy with all the results! But it’s a hard car to work!!!Too many bolts and tunning around the parts! I started with the lower and center valances, then the headlights and finally the surroundings.~ On the lights, my car is from 2/71 and had the 3rd series front, now I’m restoring it to the original shape. Now I placed the original Toshiba headlights and get rid of the wires excess, even the lamps!!! After a deep cleaning all went simple and clear! I’m waiting for the test… About the grill, I’ll keep the original one, but I don’t know if I will put the 432 instead! But only for the aesthetic reason! Let’s see the photos…. The sill plates were on the shop and I decides to install them! These ones are original, second hand, because the new ones from Nissan are just aluminium made, and these ones are covered with vinil with the same pattern as the seats and interior plastic covers! The headlghts…before… https://i.postimg.cc/FsYycdPv/IMG-20190209-120041.jpg] In the end…. Valances… Installed… The grill… Installed…. The headlights...and the gift… Then work and pacience…ehehehehhe In the end, only the right side of the car needs a hand…only tunning, but it’s a work for Mr.Vitorino…not me!!! Hope you are enjoying so far!!! Regards, Mário

Sorry for the slow reply. As far as these being genuine Koni creations, I can say that about a year ago, Greg started digging through all our suspension parts to find proper strut housings and so forth to ship off to them for the engineers. A year and lots of work later, these are the result, and they were 100% designed and created by Koni to their Sport Yellow spec of struts. Here is the official Koni release: http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/. Don't be surprised if Lee from Koni himself jumps in here at some point. Koni has been absolutely awesome through this process, I think we're all lucky to have Koni wanting to invest in Classic Z's. As far as the bump stops, by "proper" they basically meant having properly designed and undamaged units, trimmed if needed based on spring height. These units do not come with bump stops. The factory rubber ones are acceptable, and our urethane ones might be the best bet for progressive "bottoming", in addition to the fact that they fit the shaft sleeve diameter perfectly. As far as the Koni "Silastic" Foam Rubber (i.e. Silicone) bump stops, they look like a great progressive option as well. They are not model specific, and may not fit as snugly as our urethane ones (we're going to get some and try, and let you know), but we're looking into offering those as well. Assuming the Amazon seller has the right part pictured, you can see one of those ($26.56 each? Ouch!) here: https://www.amazon.com/Koni-70-34-54-000-0-Bump-Stop/dp/B001G99RKS. As far as the hardware shown above, the top left is the shaft sleeve. The sleeve fit is perfect. I'll try to find a spring seat if possible and show some of it fit together. Below that in the image of course is the top locking nut. On the bottom left of the image is the I-realize-now-I-should-have-exposed-that-in-the-image-better Gland Nut. I'm looking for inexpensive options for tools so you don't have to use a pipe wrench. Will advise. On the top right of the hardware shown is of course the adjuster knob. Since you get one with each strut, you can loose three of them and still be ok... ? On the bottom right is their "washer" to go on top of the Gland Nut. It is designed with channels and waves, the purpose being an added layer of protection for the seal underneath, as it will direct away any air pressure when bottoming, or road junk that bounces up there, so it doesn't end up crammed on top of the seal. We'll work on a digital version of their instruction sheet, but they are a bit generic and have nothing special I can see beyond standard info. Other than the placement of the disc and the Z-specific sleeve (which aren't shown on there anyway), there isn't anything that would surprise anyone who has gone through cartridge install before. They do however have a diagram showing you how to place the adjuster knob in your glovebox... ? I'll check with Hector on Illumina's. It won't surprise me if he has experience with them and can offer some comparisons. Stay tuned. You may have seen it on our website already, but here is a quick illustration of the adjustment: https://youtu.be/HM83qhwRB30 James will be following up if we missed anything. Thanks for the interest!

I jest not. (And don't call me Surely) I know of one manufacturer that kept computer data of dealer new car sales, so it was probably common in the industry at the "mothership" level. The instance I'm aware of was a computerized list compiled by Porsche to indicate the sale of every Porsche 914-6 sold in North America. The computer generated listing indicates car VIN, sale date, and name/location of dealership beginning with the 1970 model year. A friend who worked for Porsche at the dealership and corporate levels for many years has a copy and provides data to 914-6 owners upon request. Dennis

Computerized record keeping, surely you jest... I don't recall seeing terminals back in the 70's, but did see fiche readers at the dealer for parts catalogs I bought my 73 from. Even credit card receipts back in the day were done using a carbon paper form on a flatbed card imprinter. https://www.amazon.com/Data-Systems-Manual-Imprinter-515-101-002/dp/B008UQ81S4 I think the original copy was then sent to a credit card processing facility that used an OCR (Optical character reader) to input the form on a mainframe computer.

Not much kept on computers at dealerships during our Z's production era. Generally, paper records only and they get tossed when the file reaches critical mass or the dealership closes or moves to a new location. Dennis