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KONI Lee

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KONI Lee last won the day on February 11 2019

KONI Lee had the most liked content!

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About KONI Lee

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    Active Member

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    Hebron, KY
  • Occupation
    KONI Automotive Product Manager

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  • Zcars Owned
    Z fanatic but no car right now

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    www.koni-na.com

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  1. Pardon my effort at a little humor or levity at the end along the lines of the old joke about "the nut behind the wheel". Clearly it landed wrongly for you. I have shared the info that comes across this forum with engineers here and in Europe for input for improvements if needed and explanations if there are specific decisions behind it that are not clear. Forums are always a double edged sword with pros and cons for manufacturers because there can be positive feedback, problem solving, and refinement as well as misunderstandings or misinterpretations, armchair engineering without unde
  2. Please be assured that KONI has been watching this thread and seeing the feedback. With feedback from both this forum and the input of Motorsports Ind., we have worked together on some minor tweaks and changes over time. As I have said several times previously, we started this project using all the specs, dimensions, hardware, etc. that KONI have been using successfully for decades making the red 86 series internally adjustable (compress-to-adjust) Z-car inserts. KONI has used this nyloc nut on the Z-car 86s since at least 1993 when computerized build sheet records began and any changes and
  3. Very nice home made adjuster, lapriser. This actually reminds me that last year I told Joseph that I would post the easy & cheap long neck adjuster tool that folks have made over the years. If you look at the bottom of the KONI supplied adjuster knob, you will see that the tip with the elongated adjuster slot is actually an insert into the end of the adjuster knob. There are actually two different KONI adjuster tab sizes so we have two different inserts depending upon what tab size is used for your application. Although a somewhat tight slip fit, you can remove your insert easily by
  4. Very nice work, lapriser! As mentioned above, the only thing that I saw was that the upper image didn't have the white plastic "bump plate" but I see it on the angleD view. As Joseph mentioned, it is a surface for the bump rubber to impact into and allow any road grit or puffs of air from the fast moving bump stop to be blown out to the side and not into and possibly passed the piston rod seal. It is simply an extra layer of protection for the rod seal to have a nice long life in the sometimes harsh and dirty environment of a roadgoing fender well. Also if your car is lowered and
  5. Actually Joseph and I have been talking on the phone about this during recent posts. Lapriser had as also reached out to our KONI tech staff at info@koni-na.com, which is what we would prefer that you do if you have a technical issue such as this. I also saw the post notification when it popped up on the forum. First off, clearly I am sorry to see of the issue that had occurred with the stripping of the threads during installation. We (KONI and Motorsport Ind.) have already made a plan to get a new replacement unit sent out to lapriser at no charge listed officially as a "customer cour
  6. The KONI distributor in the UK is RFT in Mytchett, Surrey. Ask for Trevor and tell him that Lee with KONI North America sent you. Although he cannot get the Datsun Z specific inserts, he can probably get the M48 x 1.5 using the part number 73.25.01.003.1 from Holland. Performance Parts RFT Email: tleigh@rftgroup.co.uk Tel: 01252 494016 Unit One Mytchett Business Centre 57E Mytchett Road Mytchett, Surrey, GU16 6EG
  7. According to the drawings I am looking at that has most but not all of the measurements, the 8641 1033 Sport does step down from 43.5 mm OD to 42 mm OD a short distance from the bottom so there is an insternal restiction near the bottom. The 8641 1033 Sport is a straight 42 mm OD all the way down. The 1033 may have hung up on that diameter restriction before it reached all the way to the bottom and thus the length difference is not apparent when inside. All the more reason for you to get the 1031s that are needed for the smaller diameter early struts. It would be interesting to see if you
  8. Hello Jonbill. Sorry that you have had an issue but I was able to dig into some specs to sort it out. If your car needs the M48 x 1.5 gland nut, then you have early ('70-'74.5) strut housings and thus need the 8641 1031Sport with the proper gland nut and a 42 mm OD insert diameter and 394 mm insert length. Based on the late 1974 build date, you bought the 8641 1033Sport which use a M52 x 1.5 gland nut, have a 43.5 mm (1.5 mm larger) OD insert diameter and a 384 mm (note that it is 10 mm shorter) insert length. Whether the cars is the UK were made with a later changeover date or maybe s
  9. Digressive valving is not exactly "new thing" for companies who have been making performance dampers for a long time (KONI has been doing it for at least 50-60+ years) but it might be newer to companies whose products were more replacement grade and not really within the performance realm. It could be that their piston and valving component design might not have allowed the ability to really contour the damping curves very much but have moved in that direction. Many shock companies may not have been around that long or possibly just their marketing companies have simply latched onto "digress
  10. As with pretty much all KONI dampers, these are digressive valvings on the Z cars. This means that as they initially begin to move, they build damping forces at a pretty steep rate to give very low piston speed, subtle body motion control but the rate of climb continues at a decreasing or digressing rate at target piston speeds across their working piston speed range so that they do not get too firm and causing handling, tire grip, and ride comfort issues once the suspension and body get into significant motion. A progressive damping curve would normally be a bad thing as it would have ve
  11. Those white plastic rings are called "bump plates" and they are intended as an extra layer of protection for the piston rod seals for when the car compresses fast enough for the bump rubber to make contact with the end of the damper body. The bump plates have two different designs, one a closed ring with a somewhat waffle shape and the other are flat and C shaped with a gap in one side. Because bump rubbers are round, fast moving, and soft to compress, it is defintiely possible for a bump rubber impact to the top of the strut to drive a puff of compressed air and possibly some road grit into
  12. Hello All, sorry for the late response. I was away from the internet and emails for most of three day Easter holiday with family so I am just getting caught up to a flurry of activity here. Issues of the last few days: Oil in the strut housing around the insert is always a good idea but it does not really matter what type oil it is. The benefits are twofold, although one is real world and the other a bit more theoretical. As mentioned in posts above, some type of oil between the raw steel inside of the strut tube and the outside of the insert can reduce or eliminate the ch
  13. It is a good example of how these cars are regulary upgraded with more modern wheels, tires, springs, bushings, etc. that many people use today. Each of those steps takes some compliance out of the suspension's motion and sharpens the feedback up to the driver and passenger. These cars will normally use a slightly higher initial rebound damping adjustment setting than will a truly stock car with softer springs, taller sidewall tires, etc. might. The stock cars will normally be adjusted to at or near the full soft adjustment setting and the modified car will likely have a higher initial sett
  14. I don't have a Z-car damper readily at hand to check one but most KONIs have a roughly 2.0 to 2.25 turn adjustment range from the stop at full soft to the stop at full firm. Depending on any minor stack height difference of the internal valving components used in that application, there is some possible variation but rarely does it go less than 1.75 turns or more than 2.50 turns. Because all KONIs have greater than 1 full turn of adjustment, having external numbered markings like the Tokico would not work.
  15. Thanks for the review and feedback, Ian. For clarification on knowing where your KONI adjustment settings are, just use the physical hard stop at the full soft setting (clockwise until it stops) and then the number of full or partial turns counter clockwise up from that point. Example: Full soft, 1/4 turn from soft, 1 1/8 turn from soft, etc.. This is always repeatable and easily matched side to side, front to rear if desired. In general most people probably use 1/4 turn adjustment increments but you can do larger or smaller increments if you want. We have a highly respected and pic
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