Triple Mikuni and Webers
Discussions around the triple Mikuni & Weber carb setups
70 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 9 replies
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Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car run…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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This occurs with one carb.while the other carb is rock solid stable. Normal setting for my car is 1 1/4 turns. Most recently, after 700 miles, the problem carb was down to 1/2 turn. I tried reversing the spring but it has not helped. I suspect the spring ends have been acting like a lock washer urging the screw in. I have been thinking about adding some thin brass washers to decouple the spring and screw. Any suggestions?
Last reply by djwarner, -
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Hello Gents, As the title states I am experiencing some issues during deceleration when coming to a stop using the gears. I can put the car in neutral and it stays running. But when I use the gears to help with the stop especially when coming in hot and fast the engine just wants to die. It always dips to 500 RPM and most of the time just stops running. It idles good, it runs good going thru the gears, sounds freaking awesome! but the damn stop..... Been tuning the carbs for a few weeks and I think it is real close. Idles at 1000. Fuel PSI is 3.5. Fuel return line is capped. I barely have the 2-3K rpm stumble. I can tell it pulls very nice all the way to 5500 …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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- 0 replies
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40 accel. F15 emulsion 45f6 idle 150 main 210 air corrector 55 spill jet 33 main venturi 3.5 aux venturi. Happiness.
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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I was browsing ebay and spotted a parts weber dgv for really cheap I was thinking of picking up. And I noticed it had a finned redline air cleaner here is the link Redline 32 36 Weber Carburetor | eBay This thing looks really cool, I may buy this just for the air cleaner box. I've never seen this style before, and now I want a pair for my DGVs. If anyone has one pf these laying around, or knows where I could find them, comment or PM me. Or if you even remember them and may know when they came out that would be cool. I couldn't find anything on google either.
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 5 followers
- 16 replies
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I removed a high compression 280z engine which was probably in the low 200 HP range and transferred some of the parts. I replaced it with a stock 1972 240z L24 and the modifications are a ZX distributor, 6 into 2 header and triple Weber 45's from the engine I removed. My question is around the Webers. They were obviously set up for the hotter engine and I have bolted them onto the L24 and thought someone may have a "stock" configuration in respect to main jets, choke tubes, idle jet, air corrector jet etc. Current main jet is a 145. I have not had any experience with Webers but hope to be able to set this car up myself buying the correct parts.
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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- 6 replies
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Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have a l24 bored 10 over with flat top pistons and a medium'ish cam. I want to run pretty high compression and was wondering as far as carbs go if I be better off with single 4 barrel carb (Bob Sharp setup) to get the best cfm or my 2 single updraft carbs. I can't afford the triple Webber's for 1500 dollars and I am wondering for the best bang for my buck what I am best off doing. I get mixed answers and opinions in my research. Also I plan on putting my Snow Performance water/meth system on it so I can run pump fuel if that makes any difference.
Last reply by 30 Ounce, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
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In refreshing my 40 DCOE carbs, I've found that one of them has the tip of the idle screw lodged in the orifice of one barrel. I've included pix of both barrels so you can see both the clogged one as well as the open one. Does anyone have a suggestion for how I might remove this broken tip without doing significant damage to the barrel? I'm thinking that after filling the screw hole with Kroil and letting it sit for a few days, heating the carb body with a propane torch will somewhat enlarge the orifice and perhaps facilitate removal. But how should I go about pushing that tip out?
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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- 4 replies
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Hi guys, My pal just got brand new triple webers going (74 260z) and we're having a tough time getting the first carb (one closest to the firewall) to sync with the other two. When we popped the vacuum gauge into the front of each carb, we originally had a reading of "5" for the front two and "7" for the one near the firewall. After turning the screw up on the other two to "7", the carb near the firewall started reading as "10" even though we didn't make any changes to it. Any idea what we're doing wrong here? -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
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Hi, I think i have a air leak on the bottom of the cannon manifold flange. Would anyone know how thick the flange is at the bottom where it shares the same mounting point as the exhaust header?
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
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Hi Guys, Just installed a rebuilt set of 40DCOE's. I can't seem to get the car running. Is their only 2 adjustments, the throttle linkage adjustment at the base of the car and the idle mixture screw by the rear. I did notice a few plugs have gas on them and there was plenty of gas in each carb. Is their any other adjustment I am missing? Also what is everyone using to block the fuel first fuel line and the coolant lines to the old SU's? Finally who sells the throttle linkage? Thanks!
Last reply by hatepotholez,
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