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hatepotholez

Car wont run triple webers

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Hi Guys,

Just installed a rebuilt set of 40DCOE's. I can't seem to get the car running. Is their only 2 adjustments, the throttle linkage adjustment at the base of the car and the idle mixture screw by the rear. I did notice a few plugs have gas on them and there was plenty of gas in each carb. Is their any other adjustment I am missing? Also what is everyone using to block the fuel first fuel line and the coolant lines to the old SU's? Finally who sells the throttle linkage?

Thanks!

 

 

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google searched the linkage kit number from Redline, 99006.729

 https://www.google.com/search?q=99006.729+linkage+kit&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiV2Y_mz_zfAhVM1VkKHSRSCnEQ_AUICSgA&biw=1280&bih=606&dpr=1.25

@240260280 bought these of mine but I can't remember the name on the linkage arms.

1488311852688.jpg

Edited by siteunseen
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There might also be throttle stops per carb.
This is a good book on setup.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1845849590/ref=dbs_a_w_dp_1845849590

I'd start with making sure the throttles are closed at rest and adjust the linkages so all 3 throttles start to move at the same time.
Idle mixture screws I think should be a couple of full turns out from fully closed (but not sure of this, I don't have Webers).

Have a look down the bore of each choke in turn as you open the throttle briskly and you should see a squirt of fuel going toward the engine. (3 pumps should be plenty for cold start even without choke, too many pumps will flood it).
If the carbs are reasonably assembled and no big air leaks at manifold it really should start like that.

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There is a lot to setting up triple webers.  In a nutshell:

 

1. Engine is in good order (valves, ignition, timing, plugs, wires, manifold sealing, etc).

2. Linkage is non-binding and has exactly the same start, stop, and throw distances on all 3 carbs.

3. The carbs are in good order.

4. The jets, chokes, fuel levels, series number, etc are the same on all carbs AND you are in the ball park for jet and choke sizes for your engine/application

5. You have the tools and knowledge to tune triple webers: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

Get one of these for sure:

image.pngor image.png

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3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

There is a lot to setting up triple webers.  In a nutshell:

 

1. Engine is in good order (valves, ignition, timing, plugs, wires, manifold sealing, etc).

2. Linkage is non-binding and has exactly the same start, stop, and throw distances on all 3 carbs.

3. The carbs are in good order.

4. The jets, chokes, fuel levels, series number, etc are the same on all carbs AND you are in the ball park for jet and choke sizes for your engine/application

5. You have the tools and knowledge to tune triple webers: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

Get one of these for sure:

image.pngimageproxy.php?img=&key=a75e82998c691b20or image.png

Your website is such a helpful resource, i’ve must of been on the site a few times. The first 2 carbs are not squirting from the accelerator pump jet. I cleaned out the jets and removed the accelerator pump with no success. I also then blew compressed air into the accelerator pump passage and the accelerator jet passage still no success. I can feel air coming from the accelerator pump passage to the accelerator jet circuit but no gas. 

 

 

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7 hours ago, jonbill said:

There might also be throttle stops per carb.
This is a good book on setup.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1845849590/ref=dbs_a_w_dp_1845849590

I'd start with making sure the throttles are closed at rest and adjust the linkages so all 3 throttles start to move at the same time.
Idle mixture screws I think should be a couple of full turns out from fully closed (but not sure of this, I don't have Webers).

Have a look down the bore of each choke in turn as you open the throttle briskly and you should see a squirt of fuel going toward the engine. (3 pumps should be plenty for cold start even without choke, too many pumps will flood it).
If the carbs are reasonably assembled and no big air leaks at manifold it really should start like that.

I actually have the Pat Braden Weber book, I also have DCOE’s on my Alfa but I haven’t touch those in years. I think i might be missing the balls that go in the accelerator circuit under the weights because there’s no gas in those circuits. 

Edited by hatepotholez

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At least you've got one working one to compare too, and a good book.
On my Dellortos the problem with the accelerator pumps is always the one way valve gets gummed up if the carbs aren't used for a while and sit with fuel in them.

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Another good reason to run either 110 or a mix of 110 and 93. Carbs have sat for months and fire up on the first turn of the key (or starter button - race car)

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