Ownallday

Yes this is what I want to go for! I guess I will have to tap out the threads for the sensor. Found the lower left hole is a m14x1.5 npt and no sensors are made to fit that. Question, why do you have the fans coming on at 220F? Isn't that a little too hot?

Oh that's interesting, never seen or heard of anything like that. Wonder how accurate it is. I might try an adjustable one out and see if I can fit it in between the shroud somehow. Thanks for the clarification!

For some reason it does on my car from what I noticed. Before the car would warm up pretty damn fast too with the old aluminum radiator and electric fan and that fan sucked but was always on too. Eitherway it be better to have them not come on startup anyways and have them turn on when the car is actually warm enough. Okay good to know someone else has done it. I want to avoid drilling and rethreading my housing but if there isn't another option I'll consider it.

Yes I prefer the look of the electric fan setup looks cleaner and more impressive imo. My car takes way too long to warm up even if I drive off. I have not seen anything on the radiator that would allow me to hook one up. I did look on summit racing. The main thing was just knowing what the threads were for the thermostat housing, I don't exactly wanna drill and rethread the thermostat housing either

Without the fans yes it'll get above 180, have not tested if it'll overheat I turned the car off the second It got past 180 which means in my mind the fans are working too good because sometimes the temp doesn't even get to 160, before this setup even with a 160 thermostat the car would run too hot which is why I replaced the radiator and fans (I had another aluminum radiator and smaller electric fan before this). The rad came with a shroud so yes. The main thing is getting the fans to turn on when the coolant gets to a certain temp so my car can warm up faster on cold starts. They sell sensors for that, the problem is installing it since it'll be aftermarket, I wanted to use the thermostat housing but not sure what the thread sizes are for the 3 front ports I'm not using or the 1 port on the side.

Yes, I actually have a 160 Thermostat, before this setup my car would run too hot which is why I swapped it to a 160 but that didn't solve the issue.. However, my main concern is just getting the fans to only turn on at a certain temp. On startup makes the car take forever to warm up and I have tested without the fans turning on the car will go above 160 just fine.

The radiator doesn't have a spot for a sensor, at least I don't see any. That was the goal to use the relays to activate with a sensor. I knew the possible issues from going clutch to electric. I prefer electric, looks nicer but thats just me. Currently I only have one fan running because my car doesn't even get above 160 degrees F, had this setup for the last couple months, have not had any power/electrical issues yet. I do have an upgraded alternator. As of right now only 1 of the two fans is running since my car doesn't get above 160F at all. I have an upgraded alternator currently, have yet to experience any electrical issues over the last couple months.

I have a 1978 Datsun 280z with a triple weber setup. I currently have installed a Champion Radiator with a dual Spal electric fan setup. As of right now the fans are wired up with relays and the fans turn on with the ignition. The car takes too long to warm up like this and surprisingly the car never goes above ~150-160 degrees F (Which I am not sure if that is too cold). I want to setup the fans to turn on with a thermostat switch that will turn the fans on at 180 degrees F. What would be the best way to install one? I would like to use any of the unused threads on my Thermostat housing (Aside the one used for the temp gauge). If anyone can link one that will work with those threads would be great as I am not sure what size those threads are. Any other ideas are also greatly appreciated.

Funny I actually just saw his website. Not sure why I couldn't find it months ago. From what I see his work seems to be very good. He is quite far from me about a 100 mile drive. I will have to give him a call tomorrow. I do not have that. Thanks for the link, I will give that a good read as I should probably learn to at least tune these things myself in the future.

I've had my Triple Webers on my 280z for about a year now, been running the car since on a baseline tune. I have an L28 N42 Block with a rebuilt E88 head from a 260z I believe. Should be stock internals aside from a slightly thinner head gasket. The car drives pretty good, however I have to ease into the throttle at lower rpms before I can fully mash it otherwise the webers bog and backfire. The car smells like it's running pretty rich too. I am wondering if there is anyone recommended in the LA County area that knows how to tune these carbs close to perfection. I live more up north of LA (Santa Clarita to be exact) Closer the better! I am also wondering how much I should expect labor cost to be for someone to tune the car.

Thought I would leave the solution to my problem down. The timing was the issue. I should've caught it the moment I saw the RPMS raise up after the install and the fact that the timing wouldn't allow me to adjust lower than 18 degrees advance. The oil pump spindle is supposedly suppose to be installed at an 11:25 o clock position, however I removed mine and installed it one tooth over so I installed it at about a 12 o clock position. The rotor in the distributor lined up a lot better with spark plug 1 on the dizzy and I was finally able to adjust the timing to 0. I went ahead and set timing to 10 degrees advanced. On my drive home, the noise I've been hearing is completely gone now throughout the entire rev range and all gears. My car did lose power thought haha, but just happy I can finally drive her without having to worry. Gonna have to find someone who can tune webers soon, I got addicted to that power increase haha. Thanks everyone for the help!

I have a tool that you use for finding tdc compression that you stick into cylinder 1. But I also took off my valve cover and checked the lobes and timing marks and checked timing marks on my pulley. Also used the the oil pump spindle at the top at one point to make sure that was tdc

Yes, I rechecked it twice, motor at tdc and the spindle facing the 11:25 o clock direction from the top. My timing is about 17 or 18 degrees advanced as that's where my webers tuning likes it. To everyone I know who heard the noise in person does not sound like detonation to them

Update, washer was facing the wrong way, swapped it and still making noise, tried the oem washer and bolt too and still making noise. The noise can't be heard in neutral. I can hear the noise the most in 3rd gear but I can hear it in all gears. Can't replicate noise with the car in the air for some reason. I should add since I realized I never mentioned it, when I went to start my car after the new oil pump, the car struggled to start and it made a really loud bang. It did this 3 times trying to start the car which to my knowledge I think the starter hit the flywheel or something. It was enough to make the entire car move. I inspected the flywheel through the starter area and can't see any damage.

Yeah I saw that. He wasn't using the performance balancer that I have though. So the bolt and washer kit I have is the one by Kameari I believe that they sell on MSA site. Here is a picture I just took. By the looks of it, the washer is facing the right direction.