Ownallday

Good to know. I will pickup F7 emulsion tubes before my tune

Thanks for the input! Seems like most people are running F7 Emulsion tube on 40s even my friends so I might have to get that. Are you running 40DCOE?

Wow that changed real quick, and here Top End states their baseline Jetting is about 80-90% there lol. Thanks for the input Thanks for your input. I'll look into both Main Jets as when it comes down to tuning I can have both sizes ready. Ill see if If its worth while to get the idle jet before the tune Yes it is a 40DCOE 151 all 3 of them are the same and brand new My friend helped me with the webers install and after installing I can confirm the first 3 from your list were already done and working perfectly as explained. 4 will come when I get them tuned. I won't be tuning them.

Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car running (extremely loud as its open headers atm) didn't have to adjust the Weber's really besides to get the idle down, drove the car and definitely have to ease into the gas, straight full throttle the car stumps for a second, could just be the car wasn't fully warmed up. My questions is if the Jets TopEndPerformance provided with the Weber's are perfect for my setup and what some of you guys think should be changed? I am very new to the Weber game and plan on learning how to tune these things properly in the future but for now I definitely would like some guidance before I get tuned. I will list below the Jets provided with these Webers Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 115 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 40 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75 I will keep this post updated as I get my webers tuned and change out the jets

Haha, not a bad idea. Ill most likely just save for the 6AL, I plan on doing it very soon anyways. I don't like finding posts without a solution so I will always post the solution on my threads. Thanks for the help, now to make a new thread if my jetting is proper for my Engine setup

Well it came down to the coil! Put the stock one back on, fired up the car and what do you know, tach now shows where my car is idling at! So my question is, if I want to stick with the MSD unit, could I just add a potometer or a resister to the blue Tach wire and get it to work like that? To my knowledge I was told to upgrade to MSD or something similar with the ZX dizzy and Triple weber setup. I plan on getting the MSD 6AL in the future so I know once I do that my tach will need to be hooked up completely different.

Okay that's what I figured, couldn't exactly remember. so I should remove the Black/White wire on the positive terminal since its not doing anything. Engine starts perfectly and runs perfectly despite having new untuned webers out of the box. Spark is extremely good too. The Tach does twitch when turning the key to the on position which it use to do with the stock setup. Okay I will test the old coil later and let you know if the results are the same or different. My car is open headers atm so im not trying to wizz off the neighbors with multiple constant starts haha. So the coil could be at fault here? I heard most people don't have problems using the MSD coil however but I am unsure

Oh okay, I see. I don't have any spare condensers then. Right side of the coil is negative with the blue wire connected for the tach and the black wiring going to the dizzy. On the left side of the coil the positive side has the white wire going to the dizzy and a black/white wire which was originally connected to the old coil going into the wiring harness. These are the only wires currently setup to the coil The two wires I am talking about that I have hanging were originally in this spot. They are going into the wiring harness.

Yes I have mine unplugged for the meantime. Made no difference with it plugged though. Tuesday I will test it all out. This is somewhat what I am leaning to also. I will test resistor on Tuesday once I get my voltmeter but my guess is the resistor is fine Is this the condenser you are talking about, it's the only one I have? Funny thing as its not connected to the coil at all. Something I just noticed is my two old positive and negative coil wires are just sitting hanging out of the wiring harness. Could this have anything to do with the Tach not working on low rpms as the guide doesn't exactly mention anything about using the old coil wires and not sure it makes a difference since I switched to Triples.

Okay, I will search for it so I can at least test when I get my voltmeter. At this point it seems most likely the E12-80 box like you said, Exactly, had my car for 2 years still don't know all the in's and outs. Okay, I will wait till Tuesday when I get my voltmeter to test it.

Where is the resistor located for the 78 280z Tach? I don't have my voltmeter to check at this time but would like to see if bypassing it does anything if possible

Okay so I traced out this TIU and found this Going to assume this is the TIU as it had six pins on it. I disconnected it, went for a drive and same results. I can confirm that with this box plugged in or unplugged my rpms only work above 2000rpms. Anything below that my Tach is dead. The blue wire is hooked up to the negative terminal on the MSD coil.

Ouch, here I was under the impression that I was upgrading since I know the ZX distributors are a popular upgrade to those swapping over to Triple Weber's like I just did. So basically I should swap back over to the stock 280z Distributor and pray my tach works or I can replace the ICM and hope I get one that isn't bad quality. I'll do some researching.

So replacing the Ignition module solves the problem? I can't see the issue being anything else since the tach was working perfect before this switch. I believe my issue is similar where my tach only works over a certain rpms.

This is why I am confused why mine stopped working. I did not mess with the TIU, as a matter of fact I had to look it up just to see what it was When installing the ZX dizzy I followed this exact guide. Only difference is the 1978 280z does not have a ballast resistor