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About Seppi72

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 505

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 281

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  • Reputation: 43

  • Achievement Points: 2,221

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  • Joined: 10/05/2001

  • Been With Us For: 7668 Days

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  • Map Location
    Marysville, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Retired Research Chemist

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    HLS30-46372. I am the original owner. The car went into total rebuild during summer 2008 for front frame rail repair, replacement floor pans, Bad Dog floor rails and rear wheel well replacement/repair. Have a 3.2 L stroker with triple Webers and 5-speed when the time comes. 2021 UPDATE: After years in limbo, now in reassembly. Hooray.
    HLS30-81416. Bought car in SF Bay area in 2002 and drove back to Ohio. Rebello 2.8 with SUs, 5-speed, 3.90 rear, Eibachs, Illuminas, urethane bushings, SCCA comp roll bar, Yokohama 225/50-15 on 15x6.5 Mitsubishi rims. Crashed the car moderately in September, 2008. Crashed heavily in 2010 and awaiting full repairs. Sigh.

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Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
  • Zcar 2 VIN

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  1. Thanks for your efforts, CanTechZ. You might need to add some other dimensions as well but that will have to wait until I (or someone else) can actually try to fabricate a part from these files.
  2. Surgery was a breeze: in surgery at 11:30 a.m. and discharged at 5 p.m. Whatever surgical pain I have is no worse that what the joint pain was beforehand -- and at least I can look forward to this pain going away. Getting around the house just fine without a walker but have one for outdoors. Hoping to be in my shop media blasting a rear strut by the weekend as my Eibach springs will be getting here on Friday so I can start to assemble those bits. Techno Toy Tuning rear suspension parts arriving this week as well. Those will likely have to wait for a January install when I can easily get up and down from a creeper. Goals, goals, goals. Looking forward to seeing your lay-flats and if and how they might differ from what ETI4K has done. They'll probably be with a millimeter of each other.
  3. Not yet. I'm prepping for hip replacement surgery on Tuesday so there have been higher priorities this past week.
  4. Thanks, CanTechZ. What you're doing will be quite helpful to julitoMX_1964 as I think it will be better for him to cut the top, back and bottom parts out of one piece of PVC or ABS sheet and bend it as needed at the edges. I have been working with ETI4K to produce mold core models for julitoMX-1964's thermoforming the side pieces and for me to do one-piece FRP lay-ups of the whole box.
  5. Yeah, jonbill, yours looks like my QuickJack except that your two sides are linked whereas a QuickJack is two independently moveable sides so there's nothing on the ground between the two sides and i can move around freely. But yours lifts a lot higher. My QuickJack will only go 18 inches or so unless I use extra cribbing - and I do sometimes.
  6. As for the lift, are you talking about a QuickJack? I have a BL-5000SLX that I bought new through Home Despot (yeah, Despot) for about $1,000 almost two years ago. I see they're running $1,400 now. Works fine for my Ford Flex and girlfriend's Nissan Murano. If that's being offered at $400, take it. Haven't used mine on a Z yet but, when I do, the lifting will be done along the frame rails running down the entire car. I had Bad Dog frame rail "boosters" welded in during the rust repair prior to painting as I knew I'd be running higher torque than what the original L24 put out. Plus, I just love a stiff car on a twisty road. Regardless of my rambling on, my point is: DO NOT LIFT YOUR CAR THE FIRST TIME USING THE ORIGINAL JACKING POINTS. Those are likely to be very weak if there's even a hint of rust in the old girl. Get some 6-foot lengths of 2x4 and cut them to the length of that bodywork between each side's wheel wells. Then, put some latex paint along the bottom edge seam of the car and carefully press the 4-inch side of each board into that seam to transfer the paint. Then, when it's dry, router a groove along that paint line deep enough to accommodate the seam and then use those boards each time you want to raise the car using that lift. You could could even glue some old carpeting along the flat to protect and cushion the bodywork.
  7. Sometimes I think Nissan did this stuff just so we could chase down trapped air bubbles for weeks. Obviously, they knew in advance that our social lives would allow for this activity.
  8. Welcome and nice car, Dadson. I also have a 9/71 build date car, HLS30-46372 (original owner), and it, too, has the vertical defroster grid found on the '71 models. I though that mine was a rare bird in that Nissan was likely using up a few old parts in the early '72 models. But your VIN looks to be about 1,000 units after mine so it seems there were more than just a few leftovers. My car came off a rotisserie earlier this year and is now undergoing restomod to become a 5-speed, triple Weber 45 carbs, 3.2 L stroker, 3.90 R200 diff beast (with Vintage Air A/C) and I'm hoping to get it back on the street this coming spring - depending on how cold the Ohio winter is going to be (unheated outbuilding). First bit of advice: take a LOT of pix before you begin removing bits and label, label, label.
  9. I don't think you have to go full moon suit. An N95 ought tp be good enough to protect your lungs as long as you don't go sticking your face into a cloud of dust. What would concern me more is whatever might get into your eyes or you might pick up on your hands, hair and clothes and then inhale as you shake off the dust. Do that outside in a breeze blowing away from your loved ones. And, just to be realistic, not every exposure to Cr(VI) results in a cancer. It's the occupational exposures or, damn us all for allowing unbridled industrialism, the unknowing long-term exposure in your drinking water or air that will get you. Watch the movie Erin Brockovich.
  10. Looking at the BASF Glasurit 801-703 chromated epoxy primer's safety data sheet (SDS), it is a "horror show" from the perspective of having cancer causing ingredients which include both the solvent xylene as well as the "active ingredients" strontium and barium chromate. Chromate is what we chemists call "chromium six", abbreviated as Cr(VI), and it is exceeding dangerous in long-term occupational exposure. If you work with such a product, it is probably not too bad when you are applying the wet mixture - but do that with proper ventilation and other PPE, please. But, if you EVER have to sand, media blast or otherwise disturb the dry film - even years later - you absolutely need to do so outdoors, fully protected and well away from any area where people or animals would be likely to roam afterwards. Literally, that dust could end up killing you. I once worked on a contract for the USAF to clean up the waste streams from a parts reconditioning facility in Utah that did a lot of electroplating with, among other things, cadmium and Cr(VI) solutions. By the time the waste streams got to the treatment facility, the Cr(VI) and mostly been reduced to chromium four, Cr(IV), which is still every bit as dangerous as Cr(VI) but not as reactive. I always wondered about the folks who had to haul the sludge away to a HAZMAT landfill.
  11. I'm almost beginning to think that the best thing we can do is to snake some 1/2" OD polyethylene tubing down each drain hole in the cowl and give each side a 30-second blast of compressed air (run through some desiccant drier first) each time we suspect it might have accumulated a bit of moisture; like when the temperature has dropped overnight and its humid. That will guarantee our cars get the loving attention they deserve. Sorry, honey, I have to go give my Z a blow job.😖
  12. Following up on ETI4K's observation, if I were going to go that route, I'd consider using a vinyl plastisol to seal the area. That's the stuff you dip you tool handles into in order to give you a non-slip surface. The vinyl formulation is heavily plasticized and exceedingly flexible. However, it's thermal expansion values are a lot larger than those for steel so it is possible that it might pull away from the metal surface were they both to get very cold. A flexible polyurethane coating (NOT POR-15 as it is crosslinked to provide chemical resistance) material might work as well; but I'd make sure it was based upon MDI isocyanate and not TDI so you get the greatest flexibility.
  13. Will send as a PM because the numbers aren't finalized yet.
  14. I'm happy to report that ETI4K has now taken my initial glove box dimensions and created 3-D renderings that he and I will now "clean up" and create forming jigs. Once we get that done we should be able to recommend processes (1) for julitoMX_1964 to try with his thermoforming machine and (2) for me to try with FRP (fiber-reinforced polyester, the proper term for what folks colloquially call fiberglass).
  15. Maybe I did this too many years ago to actually remember doing it, but my cowl has black fiberglass glued to its underside that prevents any large items (and skeeters) from entry. I guess that I roughed up the surface and used epoxy to hold the screening pieces in place.
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