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About Seppi72

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    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Marysville, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Retired Research Chemist

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    HLS30-46372. I am an original owner. The car went into total rebuild during summer 2008 for front frame rail repair, replacement floor pans, Bad Dog floor rails and rear wheel well replacement/repair. Will drop in a 3.2L stroker with 5-speed when the time comes.
    HLS30-81416. Bought car in SF Bay area in 2002 and drove back to Ohio. Rebello 2.8L, 5-speed, 3.90 rear, Eibachs, Illuminas, urethane bushings, SCCA comp roll bar, Yokohama 225/50-15 on 15x6.5 Mitsubishi rims. Crashed the car moderately in September, 2008 and began repair work in October for grand recommissioning in 2009.

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  1. Thanks for that info. I'm Installing a Vintage Air Mini into my '72 and just completed the cabin connections today using E-Z-Clip fittings and a JEGS bulkhead for the A/C lines. As member qz16 noted when he did the same install a few years ago, making those interior connections is a royal PITA. But now they're done. I'm using the generic Vintage Air brackets for mounting the Sanden compressor to the block so I have some cutting and welding to do. Already cut and drilled a piece of 1/4" steel plate that will get bolted to the block and am now trying to determine how much to cut off the
  2. A really nice install. Can you determine how much of a gap you have from the outside of the compressor to the frame rail?
  3. My intention is to have the trinary switch on my Vintage Air system operate the main electric fan on the car's radiator ahead of the engine. Thus, this fan, a 2450 CFM 14" standard fan from Perma-Cool, will be controlled in puller mode by both the A/C trinary switch as well as the main thermo switch on the engine block. The other option is to mount a pusher fan ahead of the A/C condenser and have that controlled by the trinary switch. But having two fans on the car seems unnecessary. Has anyone else done a similar "double controller" set-up on their car? Or, are there issues with
  4. I need the angle to help me determine how to cut the ends of the universal brackets that Vintage Air sells for mounting a Sanden compressor as part of an A/C installation.
  5. Well, the picture was nice but I needed a number. I have two issues: (1) my engine is out of the car and (2) it's hard to know whether parts of the block that appear to be parallel to the cylinder bore actually are parallel. To resolve the first issue, I rotated the engine stand until the lowest points of the two engine mount brackets were the same distance from the floor. I'm assuming that the pillars on the engine cross member have a vertical plane of symmetry between them and are nominally equidistant from the ground. Then, I took my $37 Pittsburgh digital angle gauge from Harbo
  6. Does anyone know how far from vertical an L24 or L28 engine block is tilted to the vehicle's right side? It's not something I can find in my FSM.
  7. Very nice documentation and good pix of the A/C installation. Too bad that portion couldn't be lifted in total and pasted into this forum topic group.
  8. I'm in the process of installing a Vintage Air GEN II Mini into my '72 S30. I've read many threads on both this and the HybridZ websites and gleaned quite a lot of useful information. However, one thing which has pretty much NOT been covered in any of those threads is how folks have routed the lines to the condenser and then on to the drier. Drier mounting locations are also variable. Mounting the Vintage Air 12" x 24" condenser, you can have the ports on either the driver or passenger side. One of the hoses (from the compressor or to the drier) then has to go across the bulkhead.
  9. View Advert E-Z Clip crimper tool Dose anyone have an old E-Z Clip crimper tool from when you did your A/C installation? I figure this is a one-and-done tool and because it costs $78 new I might be able to save both me and the current owner some money. I would say that around $40 would be a fair price and I pay the shipping. But, you let me know. Advertiser Seppi72 Date 07/28/2021 Price

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Does anyone have an old E-Z Clip crimper tool from when you did your A/C installation? I figure this is a one-and-done tool and because it costs $78 new I might be able to save both me and the current owner some money. I would say that around $40 would be a fair price and I pay the shipping. But, you let me know.


  11. I own two S30s and am an original owner of one of them, for which I have been in the process of doing a restomod for several years. I am also a retired R&D chemist with a background in plastics and rubber chemistry and processing. I have been frustrated several times regarding the various small rubber bits that go into my S30 as, I'm sure, are many other owners of old Datsuns. Many rubber parts are simply "no longer available," at least through the Nissan parts system. With the closure of Black Dragon a few years ago, the situation got worse. And, some of these NLA parts, especial
  12. I'm in this boat now because I scored a nice set of Euro tail lights for my '72 but with no Euro wiring so I have to modify my US wiring and that means replacing a single-filament socket with a dual-filament one in each harness. The Amazon link that SteveJ referenced appears to be 404 so... Darrel, how easy is it to simply push out the old metal socket in order to slide in the new one? I certainly don't want to break that 44-year-old plastic.
  13. So, madcaw, have you been able to cc the machined head yet?
  14. I'm really liking this thread. I have a set of Mikuni 44s destined for my L28 stroker and am going to commit your info to memory when I get the time to put them on. I also have a set of Weber 40s that I bought as a back-up or to go on my "regular" Rebello L28 at some other point in time. Either way, it's a fascinating (to me) discussion among you guys.
  15. I'm not familar with the '78 model. All my Zs are '72s and they do not have this type of A-pillar finisher parts. However... I am familar with automotive plastics and if these are rigid parts they are undoubtedly made from ABS plastic. For many decades, most interior trim parts have been made from ABS of one sort or another. There are, literally, hundreds of variations in the formulations that have been used worldwide. You can find a pretty good solvent system for ABS in the plumbing department of any hardware or home inprovement store. Get the stuff for cleaning the surfaces prior to glu
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