Jump to content

Seppi72

Subscribing Member
  • Content Count

    192
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

3 Followers

About Seppi72

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Marysville, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Retired Research Chemist

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    HLS30-46372. I am an original owner. The car went into total rebuild during summer 2008 for front frame rail repair, replacement floor pans, Bad Dog floor rails and rear wheel well replacement/repair. Will drop in a 3.2L stroker with 5-speed when the time comes.
    HLS30-81416. Bought car in SF Bay area in 2002 and drove back to Ohio. Rebello 2.8L, 5-speed, 3.90 rear, Eibachs, Illuminas, urethane bushings, SCCA comp roll bar, Yokohama 225/50-15 on 15x6.5 Mitsubishi rims. Crashed the car moderately in September, 2008 and began repair work in October for grand recommissioning in 2009.

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-46372
  • Zcar 2 VIN
    HLS30-81416
  1. I'm in this boat now because I scored a nice set of Euro tail lights for my '72 but with no Euro wiring so I have to modify my US wiring and that means replacing a single-filament socket with a dual-filament one in each harness. The Amazon link that SteveJ referenced appears to be 404 so... Darrel, how easy is it to simply push out the old metal socket in order to slide in the new one? I certainly don't want to break that 44-year-old plastic.
  2. So, madcaw, have you been able to cc the machined head yet?
  3. I'm really liking this thread. I have a set of Mikuni 44s destined for my L28 stroker and am going to commit your info to memory when I get the time to put them on. I also have a set of Weber 40s that I bought as a back-up or to go on my "regular" Rebello L28 at some other point in time. Either way, it's a fascinating (to me) discussion among you guys.
  4. I'm not familar with the '78 model. All my Zs are '72s and they do not have this type of A-pillar finisher parts. However... I am familar with automotive plastics and if these are rigid parts they are undoubtedly made from ABS plastic. For many decades, most interior trim parts have been made from ABS of one sort or another. There are, literally, hundreds of variations in the formulations that have been used worldwide. You can find a pretty good solvent system for ABS in the plumbing department of any hardware or home inprovement store. Get the stuff for cleaning the surfaces prior to gluing parts together. That will mildly attack the surface, removing grime without causing dimensional distortions like swelling and make it more amenable to further bonding. If, in fact, you have the screw bosses, you might consider then using an ABS glue mixture (from the same plumbing department) to reattach them to the main part. After drying for a while, say, 12 hours, you could then bolster the joint by light sanding and coating with the epoxy.
  5. Seppi72

    Gauge overlays

    Lon: I can't and won't argue with your credentials or advice. I'm just happy there's someone here who knows precision mechanicals. It is strange, though. The speedo pointer went back on its shaft just fine and is nice and snug. However, the tach pointer is way loose on its shaft and I really don't see any reason for that unless something really tiny pulled off with the pointer during removal and got lost on my workbench. The tach's "movement" seems to be A-OK, however. So, what would you recommend I do to "snug up" the fit of the pointer on its shaft?
  6. Seppi72

    Gauge overlays

    Absolutely. Depending on how "tight" they feel after being reinstalled I'll probably use a toothpick to put a dap of either cyanoacrylate (super glue) or epoxy at the joint. BTW, the pointers look really sharp now that I've spray painted them with fluorescent orange. I'm anxious to get the gauges reassembled and see how they look but I've got to paint the insides of the "canisters" with bright white to reflect whatever color LED ends up being in them.
  7. Seppi72

    Gauge overlays

    Those pointers took a LOT of force to remove!! I actually had to use a paint can lid removing tool to generate enough force to pop the speedo pointer. BTW, Dave, thanks for the tip on letting the speedo needle hang before removal.:classic: There was a little white dot on the face of the OEM gauge where it rested and I marked that on the backside edge. Now, I just have to spray paint the pointers DayGlo orange (or black) before I reinstall them. White pointers don't show up too well on white gauge faces.
  8. Seppi72

    Gauge overlays

    I plan to put the white-face, self-adhesive, vinyl overlays on my various gauges and have a relatively simple question: How do you remove the tach and speedo needles without doing any damage? At first, I thought they would just pull straight off, but after applying what I feel is enough force, they remain on the spindle.
  9. I need to do some repair on a 240Z front frame rail (its bent inwards towards the engine) from about the strut tower to just behind the T/C mounting bracket. I can get donor parts from a 280Z 2+2 but I'm uncertain whether these would be interchangable. I don't have my S30 parts CD with me today so if anyone knows the answer, please post it. I suppose that I could always fabricate what I need, but using good donor parts seems the better way to go.
  10. I'm planning to pre-empt any such problems on my rebuilt original-owner '72 by going with Techno Toy Tuning's adjustable control arms (front and rear) as well as its adjustable T/C rods (http://www.technotoytuning.com/productlist.php?vehicleid=11). I have the latter on my other '72 - the one I "bent" a year ago during an off-road excursion - and I am very happy with the parts. The really nice thing about the TTT rear arms is that they allow adjustment of camber, caster and toe on the rear wheels using turnbuckles and (for caster) shims. I also think that the front arms will allow for even more camber range than using the typical slotted shock tower insert - and be more stable to boot. And, yeah, perhaps the $1000 this will cost is a bit much for some people's taste, but it is at least money spent making the car corner better - something an extra $1000 in the paint job (flames and a hood mural, anyone?) can't do for me.
  11. My body guy was lining up the other set of MSA fiberglass bumpers to determine where the "cut ins" needed to be on the rear quarter panels and saw that those brackets didn't line up very well either. But, he took a different route to fixing the issue. :bulb:He used a cut-off wheel on the resin holding the bracket edges to the inner bumper wall and they came off just fine. He then ground the residual bumper resin smooth and bolted the MSA brackets to the car's brackets. He put what he calls "panel adhesive" on the roughed up MSA brackets' surface and pressed the bumper onto them, aligned it with the car (using shims and C-clamps - I presume) and let the adhesive set up. Voila! The bumper, she is properly aligned and firmly affixed. Well, I guess that's what years of experience retoring cars will do for you...
  12. You could go to ww.BRE2.com and buy what Pete and Gayle Brock have there. I don't remember the BRE jacket from the 70's, but they do have the BRE polo shirt that is a direct reproduction of the team togs. On top of that, any profits go to a guy who put the 240Z on the map in the U.S. His wife, Gayle, does most of the business communications, but she's very nice and will carry on a conversation with a BRE groupie for as long as you're interested. I'm presently waiting for my Pete Brock / John Morton autographed 1/18th scale #46 240Z model to arrive. I am #10 on the sign up list and they're only autographing 146 of them.
  13. I also cannot tell you about a 280Z experience. However, I bought two sets of the MSA fiberglass bumpers for my two '72s. I have only installed one set so far. I agree that the finish is good and only needs a modest amount of prep work to be ready for paint. The rear bumper went on fairly easily with all the holes more or less lining up. You have to get the bolts and nuts separately (I used metric SS ones from my local hardware store) and then these have to be installed just so. Mine face inwards with a washer on the bumper bracket (bolt head) side and both a washer and lock washer on the nut side. These went on without too much effort. The front bumper was another story entirely. I found that the holes on the bumper bracket did NOT all line up with the ones on the bodyside brackets. I had to slot one bumper bracket hole almost to the end of the bracket to get proper alignment. Whether this was a part-to-part manufacturing variation or just a one-off bad part, I don't know. However, I would measure the critical distances between your installed conversion brackets and demand that MSA make certain that the parts to be sent to you will have proper alignment. That said, using more store-bought SS hardware was a royal PITA for the fronts. There is not enough distance between the inner side of the bumper bracket and the inside of the bumper itself to make insertion of the bolts an easy task. I had to angle insert the bolts and then hold them in rough place with masking tape so they wouldn't then fall out as the part was fitted up. A "simple" job took me about 6 hours all told.:stupid: Now, because the conversion brackets you intend to get are themselves slotted, things may work out better for you, but you'll still have the issue of maneuvering and holding bolts on the bumper brackets. The end brackets of the front bumper don't line up very well with the holes on my H/L nacelles either and the part looks to be a bit too wide for the car. However, it is flexible and the ends can be "convinced" into proper position. I have not yet done this and the ends are hanging free in the air at the moment. The bumper is stiff enough that they don't droop. I'm at least going to be more experienced when I get around to installng the second set.
  14. I had 205/60-15 Yokohamas on Mitsubishi wheels on my Eibach-equipped '72 and there were no problems. This year, I changed to 225/50-15 Yokos and had to install 15 mm spacers and longer studs on the front hubs to gain strut clearance. The same wheel/tires show no problem on the rear (disc brake conversion there). There were and are no fender rubbing issues. Clearly, a lot will depend upon the wheel offset. I would be nice for one of our CAD-loving members to put up some representations of various wheel/tire/spring/camber combos. I also expect that if one knows the various parameters, a calculator could be devised to tell how much clearance one might expect - at least in a static mode.
  15. It has always been my desire to take all the exploded drawings on the L6 and S30 chassis from the FSM and/or the parts CD and label each bolt, nut, screw, etc. with both the size and torque value (if any) so that it would be easy to come by this info. I've toyed with the idea of this being a project for when I retire. However, after last year's 401K slaughter, it doesn't look as though retirement is a near-term option for me. Better yet, does anyone know of some other fool who's already gone to the trouble of doing this? If so, I can plan to squander my golden years on something else. Golf, anyone? Nah, just shoot me...:stupid:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.