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About dawg7

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    Killeen, TX

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  1. Bruce from Z Therapy highly suggested the cold air intake setup.
  2. I just installed a set of Z Therapy SU carbs and decided to go with a cold air intake setup. I didn't have any air filters so thought this would be a cool setup. So I bought the air box from Unique Z products (99$) and the Spectre 3 inch chrome covered plastic piping with filter (80$) from O Reilly parts. Very tight fit going thru the 3 inch hole near the radiator. Should have opened that hole up a bit and not scratched one of the pipes. I plan on moving the horn to the other side and rigging up a standoff clamp to go around the pipe.
  3. Yes, I entered the numbers incorrectly. I edited the first post to reflect the correct numberts which are 182 HP and 189 TQ.
  4. Definitely the engine knocked at 32 degrees. The idle was best at 17 degrees and only a mix of 100 octane and 93 (40/60 mix) would allow anything higher. The first weld ended up at 15 degrees and I stuck with that for the dyno run. Might have put another weld on the dizzy and go with a 13 degree travel. But I knew I was selling the Webers. And the head was only gasket matched, nothing fancy. Snappy? I sure enjoyed the torque but I thought the cam would go higher than 5800. Reversed numbers? The dyno shop put the lead on the coil as he couldn't get a reading from the plug wire. Not sure if that affected the readings?
  5. I was using the optic tube and it was just low around 23mm.
  6. I am posting this information for reference only. I already sold the Weber carbs with manifold and will be going either Z therapy SUs or Arizona Z 4 Barrel setup. The reason for selling? Just didn't have the skill or motivation to get educated on tuning the Webers. Still up in the air on getting the Top end racing TWM throttle body system. Kinda pricey at 3k minus the ECM. Once I get one of those installed I will get back on the dyno. I think the carbs, canon manifold and the mild porting limited the HP. Did a few chassis dyno runs last month and here is the best pull. 182HP and 189 TQ at max pull at 5800. I also have an O2 wideband installed. The AFR was 13.4 at an idle, 12.0 around 3500 and 11.1 at 5800. The stroker engine is made up from this setup: N42 block overbore 3mm KA24E PISTONS ITM RY6660 CUT .5mm by machine shop N42 head midly ported and polished; gasket matched Cosmetic head gasket 1.2mm Isky L480 cam 480 lift 280 duration 71 240z connecting rods MSA 6--1 header 2 ½ “ Magnaflow exhaust Canon Intake 1979 280zx distributor welded to 15 degree max advance(15 idle to 30 @ 3500 rpm). Vacuum plugged. MSD 6AL and MSD tach adapter 3 ohm Petronix flamethrower Taylor 8mm spark plug wires Weber DCOE 40-18 settings. CHOKE 34 AIR CORRECTION 180 MAIN JET 140 IDLE JET 50F9 EMULSION F11 AUX VENT 4.5 PUMP JET 1.75 NEEDLE SEAT 1.75 INLET VALVE .55
  7. dawg7

    DATSUN 260Z

  8. I feel kinda crappy for not replying back alot sooner. I mean I fixed the carb back in April. That was a great write up by zKars and it worked out great. Also I am trying to sell the carbs and want all to know it was fixed in a very solid manner and looks pretty good. I bought the durafix rods and with a bit of practice had a nice solid piece of metal to work with and made a nice pin support. The JB weld did not hold up well at all. I would recommend the process as explained above by zKars to anyone.
  9. Siteunseen- That is a 71 (is/was) owned by Mark Ralston located in Austin, TX. 1971 Datsun 240 Z- Classic Import & Tuner Car - Super Street All Pages
  10. I did read a lot about how well JB weld holds up on gas tank repairs. And I have used JB weld on intakes in the past. And I have some in the shop. And it would be a repair I can do on my own.
  11. I am going to buy a brazing setup and give that a shot. I have a car builder friend that is going to supervise....He does good work so I think it will be a success. Thanks for the advice and the offer. It is greatly appreciated.
  12. I have used jb weld many times but never in or around fuel. I do like the idea of brazing it back together. Here is a pic of the break; right there next to my favorite liquid.....
  13. I haven’t started the car in a few weeks (due to traveling) and I wanted to hear the car purr. But the #3 carb was gushing out gas…..not dripping. I mean shoot, just two weeks I was hauling butt up and down the highway! So I am thinking the float has a hole in it or the needle seat is jacked somehow. I take off the carb top and start to take off the float. I didn't have the punch lined up right and pushed too hard on the float pin. I broke the pin support on the carb top. Anyone have a 40DCOE-18 carb top? I don't want to get too discouraged but these damn carbs! Driving me to drink!...
  14. I have been working the issue for the past days and have made progress. BLUF. The linkage was binding and timing was off (for triple webers). I bought the universal set from Pierce Manifolds and it works great; looks good too! I also replaced the dizzy with one from a 79 280zx. Reading the Weber power tuning manual I increased the timing at idle until the RPM stopped increasing. The idle timing now is 17 and the mechanical advance is 17 for that dizzy. The idle is really smooth; what a difference that dizzy makes and the engine doesn't die at all. Next is the AFR for final tuning. Again thanks for the replies.
  15. First of all I appreciate the feed back and tips. From what I am reading to what I am seeing on my setup it leads me to believe that I have a binding issue. So I am going to replace the linkage. I don't like that look of it anyway... I rushed this project trying to beat some established timelines. Big mistake on my part. So first thing I am going to do is look through this site and check out some setups. I have seen some nice billet sets, (cygnusx1 yours looks amazing) I just can't find them online. I already am using a Lokar throttle cable. BTW the PSI is a constant 3.5. I have a 4 psi fuel boost and the mechanical pump installed.
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