Topics Last 30 Days

So. I have been honored to help many of you here with your projects by shipping parts to you that I’ve accumulated over the years. I’m not a business, I don’t do it to feed my family, I do it help friends with their projects and to maintain my social circles. Recently, and I know I’m not alone, I and my customers have been faced with a massive increase in costs and effort shipping items to the US. I’m about to consider abandoning this service as it appears to no longer be practical. I can’t imagine what devastation is happening to Canadian small businesses who’s customer base is US based. I’ve heard rumbling on FB forums from others about crazy costs shipping both into and out of the US. I’d like to use this venue as a place to share our shipping stories and perhaps what worked better for you, or what services or techniques to avoid. So, to begin, I’ll share two stories that I’ve recently had, to help to both illustrate the difficulties and demonstrate solutions.

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

Yep, I read that one and that is what caused my post. I have the oil pan from the turbo motor, and I have the oil pan from the original L24. I can use either, but they both need re-habbing before I can use them. I didn't want to have to re-hab both of them at this time, but I think that is what I'm going to do, as they will both need to be done at some point anyway. Since I have the pan out for cleaning up, I have the ability to modify/change/omit the heat shield from the turbo pan. Can you explain what part interferes with the header? I'm thinking I may be able to retain some heat-shielding of the gasket and still fit the headers? I'm actually considering just using the MSA header I have for now until I can save some more dollars for the ZStory headers and hopefully, the tariffs will expire as well! I've also read that the turbo oil pan may not fit into the 240 because of the sump being in a different spot from the 240 pan, and causing interference with the crossmember, but I haven't been able to confirm that either.

I found some good pics, etc. of that booster here >> https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/ Mounting: The mounting bolt pattern is 2.375" x 3.1875" square with a 2.5" center bore pass through:

Thanks for this latest photo essay. Lots of good insights here into how multiple panels come together in this complicated and structurally-important section of the car. You did some very nice work in forming the two big replacement sections for the upper frame rail. Can you talk a bit about how this was done? Also: What was the gauge of the sheet metal you used? In the 4th photo, there's what appears to be a right-angle drive power tool, with a 3" sanding disk mounted in the chuck. Is this your go-to tool for grinding welds? Who makes it?

Dou you have any spacers in the mounting hardware that can be swapped to the bottom side of the seat mount?

Yeah, hopefully it should be easy to tell. In any event, it's got to be better than this!!! Hahaha!

It doesn't really matter which terminal has the condenser attached. It's there to stop electrical noise.

Here's a good read on what you're doing. You might read something helpful.

Is that Rick Springfield's brother?

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

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I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

It will be interesting to see how the BaT S30.world/Garage 44 auction goes when it is (eventually) listed. Im guessing the 240-Z has been shipped to the USA to sell rather than be passed in.

Cannon Manifold and three 40 DCOE 151 (spanish pedigree) weber 151s. I have had these apart and cleaned them but they still need to be gone through and verified. I had them on my Z car running since 2012. Pulled them off and need the space in my garage. Comes with oversized rod ends, and throttle arm mounting bar (less deflection), which is a modification of my own. Carbs are complete. I am pretty sure I have the air horns that came with them. I can ship to anywhere in the CONTIENTAL US, but shipping will be on the purchaser. I will box them up in a protected WEBER carb box individually. For the manifold and carbs I am asking 800 dollars plus shipping. Please give me an email at sdamico555@Gmail.com

They have a 15mm square socket available on Amazon. Works like a champ with a 1/2” pull bar. I chose the Harfington model. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=15mm+socket

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

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Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

Zzzzzzzzzz…..

Not that weren’t expecting

I know most people on this forum want as much stock and original parts as possible but, at least it’s my opinion, maybe some modern upgrades / mods are in order to keep these cars on the road. Aside from all the aftermarket suspension upgrades I know that Apex Engineered also sells new steering racks (with right hand inner tie rods) and just the right hand thread inner tie rods. Replacing just the inner tie rod(s) for right hand thread once might be a good solution for the NLA drivers side outer tie rod. And yes Apex does sell them separately and in pairs. https://apexengineered.com/shop/s30-240z-260z-280z/inner-tie-rod/ No I’m not sponsored I just like what they’re doing and ordered some stuff to fix my 280z.

Been a while since showing 2446 bones…and she got good bones. Slowly finding time and discipline to prioritize some shop time. It is fun putting a few peices on the rear, dash will be coming out to recover. Had been a while since I have inverted to disconnect heater control cables….throttle lever cable at top of the gas pedal assembly…etc. rear panel is too dark, debating to reshoot to lighter shade….

I did the yellow/blue wire grounding test. I had both the Floor Temp and Fuel warning lights on. I guess I have an independent to the fuel sender's thermistor issue with the Floor Temp sensor. I will check the relay under the pass seat.