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Here's the Franklin Mint model.

Racin’

I suppose it could also be bedliner.

Thank you for info. Will locate the correct sub's. CLSD R200 diff came from a large parts sale. Someone may have mixed parts and installed the incorrect sub's into the carrier to sell as a complete diff.

Here in Panama we use 95 fuel. Mechanic advised to use an octane booster. The thing is how much in half full 16 gallon tank? The whole can or half and then fill up the rest of the tank with 95 fuel?

Before you get too far you might as well find the ECU. The brain box. It's over by the driver's left leg, behind the kick panel. It controls the injectors. Unless you're planning to run carbs.

I'm a big fan of having a vacuum gauge on the balance tube (and plugging the emmissions holes). If the engine isn't healthy, it doesn't matter how the carbs are tuned. Compression, Timing, then Carbs. The vaccum gauge is a wonderful tool to see the health of the engine. I

Not odd at all. It's the same reason that British Standard threads were used on a "Japanense" car in the 1950s and early 1960s. Nissan's tie-up with Austin. Wait 'til you hear about Imperial wheel diameters and PCDs... https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/HERITAGE_COLLECTION/short_story/en_p13-01.html

Hello - I got them available- let me know if you are still interested

I used aluminum aircraft rivets - and like your pop rivets, I should have used a semi-tight washer on the squishy end. The sheet metal on the contacts is really thin. I also "re-squished" the (original) rivets on the bulb holders.

Sounds like you're saying things have been just fine then something changed. As opposed to the brakes having always bothered you. If it was mine I'd find the source of the sudden problem before "upgrading" anything. Otherwise you could add the upgrades and end up with the same problem, never solved.

Hahahaha!! It's true!!

I have used the Zcardepot style pans in the past. It is a lot of work getting them to mate up well to the tunnel. If it were me, I would get the KF pans. I think they are better pans and will give a better finished product. You may not care today about an OEM look today but you might in ten years...

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3200.jpg For Sale 1970 Series 1 Datsun 240Z VIN # 6132 Monte Carlo Red. Original paint L28 engine with 4-speed manual transmission Full suspension upgrade with Z Car Garage Big-Brakes (Stoptech, 328mm) Price: $27k http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/LouZ.png Interior: stock with Recaro Specialist seats: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3212.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3211.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3208.jpg Car currently has 16″ Kong Rewind wheels with Bridgestone RE760 tires and chassis upgrades: -Stoptech/ZCG big brake kit (Stoptech ST-42 calipers) -Arizona Z Car billet suspension -Ground Control coil-overs -MSA front/rear strut tower bars http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JC-4718-029-1024x768.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/JC-4718-033-1024x768.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/IMG_6613-e1526879060891-768x1024.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/IMG_6616-1024x768.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3205.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/vr-4718-191.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_6615-e1526879090464.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3207.jpg Engine is a stock L28: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3209.jpg Solid car, only evidence of rust just below battery tray. Paint is original (Monte Carlo Red only available on early models) and could use a refresh. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3200.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3228.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/IMG_3199.jpg Walk-around video: Previous zcarblog.com post highlighting suspension and refurbishment work can be seen here: https://www.zcarblog.com/2018/05/21/performance/lous-1970-datsun-240z.html Historic photos of the Z with stock suspension, wheels and current suspension with 17″ Panasports: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/IMG_3482-1-e1526533983660-1024x642.jpg Please contact Rob at shop for more info: rob@zcargarage.com or e-mail rob@zcargarage.com View the full article

Where is 7B? I was raised in 8B... Oh... Canada - way the hell and gone from SE Idaho...

Become a subscriber and the pop-ups will go away. The advertising is what keeps this site alive. By no means is the site making any money.

You might find some things here: https://junkyardjenny.com/

Posed the question on the interweb and got this "AI generated" answer but it lines up with the automatic transmission info in the 1976 280Z FSM: "The inhibitor switch on a 1973 Datsun 240Z automatic transmission is located on the transmission itself. It is typically found on the right side of the transmission, where it controls the circuit for the reverse lights and the starter interlock system. The switch is responsible for ensuring the car can only be started when the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and it provides a closed circuit for reverse when the transmission is in reverse. For a 1973 model, the switch is specifically designed for automatic transmissions and is not present on factory manual transmissions." (We've had A/T Z cars in the shop and swapped out auto transmissions for manual transmissions, but I honestly don't remember the wiring at all.) The electrical schematic has it wired with 4 wires: B/Y, B/Y, RB, R. (B/Y for the start circuit and R & R/B for the reverse lights) The other relay in question is called "Seat Belt Relay" on page BE-2 of the FSM. Refer to "Fig. BE-1" item 17 "SEAT BELT RELAY (A/T MODEL ONLY)". The FSM shows that with 6 wires (as does the schematic - but the schematic does not label it "seat belt relay"): B/Y, B/Y, B/Y, B, G, G. (B is shown on the schematic as the GND symbol). BE-2 of the FSM shows the seat belt relay mounted on the firewall. Others, in other forums, do describe it as the "K-18". Those are the only ones I see related to the start circuit - I don't think the black box under the glove box should be involved. (Is it the ACC Relay?) And there's a post on ZCAR.COM: https://www.zcar.com/threads/not-the-inhibitor-relay-topic-again-1973-240z.424554/

This is the Jet Hot cast finish. Please excuse the slightly green cast which is the result of either lighting or camera user error. I like the color but more importantly it's extremely robust. After more than 25 years the exhaust manifold on my 280 still looks like it was just done. Hope this helps. Not a job one wants to do twice. PS This is the exhaust manifold from the Z used as the model for the Franklin Mint Z car

LOL

I probably wouldn't coat a stainless header. Jet coat could probably be used though. I bought a Z story exhaust and really like it...

Pre-Fleetwood Mac Fleetwood Mac.