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About Blitzed

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    One Datsun always Datsun. 1969 SRL 311 Roadster fully restored. New owner 1973 240Z in restoration.

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  1. Sounds like you might have one of your hydraulic lines next to a heat source. The exhaust manifold or headers. All lines are in stock position, hard line runs along the firewall above the stock manifold and exhaust. flex line come off the body rail passenger side and slave is bolted to trans. It's all exposed to heat.
  2. Hi All, Thanks for the feedback. Spent the past 8 months knocking the ugly off the car. Car sat for 23 years in a garage so have no idea the performance / functionality of any part prior to storage. It's all a discovery process. Went through the entire braking and drive train. Just replaced the sub axle bearing so I'm sure the drive shaft and trans axle u-joint bolts are torqued. This is the only on-going issue. Purchased the slave attached from Z car parts of AZ. New master is straight forward, zero bleeder on the master. Single bleeder on the slave. Previous maintenance on the compression fitting (at the flex/rubber hose) was vise grip stripped so i replaced both hard (to the master) and flex or rubber to the slave to ensure no air leaks. Will double check all connections for torque and leaking and bleed again. Keep you posted. Could this be clutch failure? https://zcarsource.com/clutch-slave-cylinder-240z-260z-280z-7-72-78-oem-new
  3. Hi All, 73 240Z with L28 transplant. Recently purchase a clutch pedal kit from a supplier (new clutch master, slave and rubber line). Also replaced the stainless line from the master to the rubber line. Using DOT 3 brake fluid in the master. Car shifts smoothly until 30 -45 mins driving. Once car is at temp, loose engagement from the slave (assume it's the slave and not the clutch). I can engage forward gears with a clunk 1st -4th, but will not shift into reverse (grind). 73 clutch slave, no spring from the bearing lever to the slave, single pedal adjustment on the master shaft to the pedal. First time it happened bleed the system, issue gone, shifting smoothly again. Next hour drive issue came back. I'm not sure this is an air or bleed issue, when the temp is down will shift smoothly again without bleeding or adjustment at the pedal. Where do I start? try a different fluid, replace the mater (valve expansion at temp), replace the slave? Any advise would be appreciated.
  4. Hi All, Took on the huge task of replacing all my suspension bushings (rubber). Front control arms tough but no issues. The rear control arms have been difficult. 8 hours to remove the pivot bushings at the forward shaft. Upon removal of the second bushing sleeve, stood back to pat myself on the back and the control arm fell out of the vise and donked the tube for the slide on bushing (24MM bolt) Does anyone know what tap size is needed to clean up the top threads in the tube? Note to self, leave bolts in the tube on the next arm. Thank you,
  5. Hi All, Thanks for all the advice on sub axle nut removal. Now that all is removed (took all weekend) and ready for reassembly with new bearings, I've shifted to rear disc brake conversion. My challenge is restoration planning. Not in love with the 14" western wheel cyclones on the car and I'm not in a position to pull the trigger on new 15" -16" wheels and tires (funds are directed elsewhere). Would prefer not to experience the sub axle removal again. Question, is there a rear disc brake conversion that will fit with the current 14" wheels? Thanks for the help.
  6. Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly.
  7. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-6000
  8. Hi All, I'm in suspension hell. Sure the Z vets out there who've gone through the fire prior are laughing. Cost is adding up rapidly as the shock towers were sent the local car shop for "F"ing gland nut and old cartridge removal. FYI - gland nut tool for $35.00 bucks does a fine job of rounding all the corners (not sure it the right size for the nut?), waste of money. Here my question, purchased Eibach progressive springs, Koni adjustable shocks and the new pillow ball spring seat and strut mount (see attached) from Motorsport. Anyone installed this set-up? Instructions on all parts are vague at best. The shocks have an aluminum sleeve that slides below the treads on the shaft, holds the bump stop? Concern, the original rubber insulator, not used on this set-up, the new spring seat mount and strut mount are metal on metal. Noise, vibration, banging or other? Would a thin piece of rubber between the two help? Any experience, tricks or advice would be great. Busted knuckles.
  9. Hi All, So the only way to remove the rear wheel bearing locknuts is cut off the top pinched section? What a cluster! One time use parts?
  10. Hi All, Thanks for all the pics and advice. Spent a 1/2 day measuring, remeasuring, again and again before drilling. Looks great but you can never count on the spoiler manufacture having exact tolerances. The spoiler is 1/4" wider (over hang rear fender) on one side from center point. Oh well with my OCD I'll only look at the driver side of the car.☺️ Great info on the rubber washers, will install. On to paint 901 silver.
  11. Hi All, Jump into front air dam and rear spoiler. Neither purchase can with any hardware or instructions (I do read them), just the unpainted part. Air dam, can't mess that up but I was curious if there is a standard or proper location for the rear spoiler? Checked out a ton of pics, Is the answer flush with the hatchback lip? or should there be a space forward of the lip? Rear spoiler 432 style, two mounting bolts. Any diagram or advise would help.
  12. Hi All, Big "Thank You" to Nomad, took the time to help another Datsun nut. 10 mins in my garage looking at the engine and discovered my throttle linkage was still slightly engaged, fixed. Pulled the distributor and adjusted the plate bolt so we had additional advancement on the timing and showed up with a set of SU, so he could explain the internal issues and working of the carbs. Engine is purring and we took the car out for it's maiden voyage (around the corner). Still need minor adjustments to the float levels as engine is running slightly lean but it's running. Where can I locate a new/used (working) vacuum advance for the distributor? VA is currently moving but too weak to advance the plate. Thanks to all who have given great direction on SU's.
  13. Hi Nomad, That would be awesome. Love to see your car and your vision moving forward. Give me a call this weekend if you have the time. send me your contact info we'll and set a time. anwhiteford@att.net Thanks,
  14. Hi All, You all are brilliant. The 240 roared back to life after a very long sleep. Adjusted all the linkage to neutral, high revs gone. I'm out about 3 3/4 - 4 turns on the air mixture nut. Backfiring and stalling gone, engine will hold a 700 - 800 idle. New issue, can't rev the engine, front carb backfires with the introduction of air and fuel. Rear carb reacts fine. Engine is now dieseling at shut off. These SU devil's are tricky to tune. Thanks for all the advice, Cheers.
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