Blitzed

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About Blitzed

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Placentia
  • Occupation
    Sales

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    One Datsun always Datsun. 1969 SRL 311 Roadster fully restored. New owner 1973 240Z in restoration.

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  1. Hi All, So, one vote yes to the wheel hub position moving out and one vote no, same position with the spacer. Anyone on- line preformed the vented rotor and Toyota caliber upgrade on a stock 240Z brake and wheel assembly? Thanks for the info. Andrew
  2. Hi All, With regards to the Toyota vented brake upgrade front disk. Will the spacer required change the wheel hub position from the stock position (front only)? Meaning will the spacer move the wheel hub /rim/ tire further out in the fender well? Tires are already tight to the inside of the fender running 205's no flares. thanks , Andrew
  3. Thanks Mike and Mike, Just wanted to cut to point. Was not in the market for new wheels and tires. Unfortunately the disk brake upgrade (front and rear), with the 14" Western Wheels Turbines I had on the car cleared the caliber in the rear but would not clear the slightly larger caliper in the front (1/8" off). Two options, tow the car home or pull the trigger on larger 15" wheels and drive home. All had to done quickly, not a good position. BTW- The original (1976) set of Western Wheel Turbines are on the classified board. Wheels are in excellent condition and the tires are brand new (less then 100 miles). Nothing like large unexpected expenses. Thanks again for the info and confirmation. Andrew
  4. Hi All, First of all I've read several wheel fitment threads on the site. Please don't' shoot the messenger, still confused. Pushed into buying wheels and tires quickly (not good). Converted to vented rotors / rear disk brake conversion and now the 14" wheels do not fit over the front calipers. This would all be ok if the car was in my garage but it's 30 miles from my home in a service garage. The shame of spending dollars and having the car towed home, just doesn't seem right. Please only comment if you've have a similar config listed below. Only looking for confirmation on stock body (no flares) 240Z's. Specs: 1973 240Z with air dam (front valence removed), stock fenders, Eibach progressive springs on stock shock housings. Car is slightly lowered with the rear shock spacers installed. Will 15" x 7" 0 offset wheels and 205 x 60 x 15 tires fit without any issues? Need to purchase and deliver to get the car home. Thank you for your help,
  5. View Advert Original set of Western Wheels Turbines and tires 240Z Nice set of 14" x 5.5 Western Wheel Turbines (Installed 1976) for sale. Wheels are in great shape, no curb rash, new center caps Z logo. Tire are brand new 14 x 195 x 70. $600.00 Local pick only. Orange County, CA. Advertiser Blitzed Date 10/13/2019 Price $600.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  6. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Nice set of 14" x 5.5 Western Wheel Turbines (Installed 1976) for sale. Wheels are in great shape, no curb rash, new center caps Z logo. Tire are brand new 14 x 195 x 70. $600.00 Local pick only. Orange County, CA.

    $600.00

    Placentia, California - US

  7. Sounds like you might have one of your hydraulic lines next to a heat source. The exhaust manifold or headers. All lines are in stock position, hard line runs along the firewall above the stock manifold and exhaust. flex line come off the body rail passenger side and slave is bolted to trans. It's all exposed to heat.
  8. Hi All, Thanks for the feedback. Spent the past 8 months knocking the ugly off the car. Car sat for 23 years in a garage so have no idea the performance / functionality of any part prior to storage. It's all a discovery process. Went through the entire braking and drive train. Just replaced the sub axle bearing so I'm sure the drive shaft and trans axle u-joint bolts are torqued. This is the only on-going issue. Purchased the slave attached from Z car parts of AZ. New master is straight forward, zero bleeder on the master. Single bleeder on the slave. Previous maintenance on the compression fitting (at the flex/rubber hose) was vise grip stripped so i replaced both hard (to the master) and flex or rubber to the slave to ensure no air leaks. Will double check all connections for torque and leaking and bleed again. Keep you posted. Could this be clutch failure? https://zcarsource.com/clutch-slave-cylinder-240z-260z-280z-7-72-78-oem-new
  9. Hi All, 73 240Z with L28 transplant. Recently purchase a clutch pedal kit from a supplier (new clutch master, slave and rubber line). Also replaced the stainless line from the master to the rubber line. Using DOT 3 brake fluid in the master. Car shifts smoothly until 30 -45 mins driving. Once car is at temp, loose engagement from the slave (assume it's the slave and not the clutch). I can engage forward gears with a clunk 1st -4th, but will not shift into reverse (grind). 73 clutch slave, no spring from the bearing lever to the slave, single pedal adjustment on the master shaft to the pedal. First time it happened bleed the system, issue gone, shifting smoothly again. Next hour drive issue came back. I'm not sure this is an air or bleed issue, when the temp is down will shift smoothly again without bleeding or adjustment at the pedal. Where do I start? try a different fluid, replace the mater (valve expansion at temp), replace the slave? Any advise would be appreciated.
  10. Hi All, Took on the huge task of replacing all my suspension bushings (rubber). Front control arms tough but no issues. The rear control arms have been difficult. 8 hours to remove the pivot bushings at the forward shaft. Upon removal of the second bushing sleeve, stood back to pat myself on the back and the control arm fell out of the vise and donked the tube for the slide on bushing (24MM bolt) Does anyone know what tap size is needed to clean up the top threads in the tube? Note to self, leave bolts in the tube on the next arm. Thank you,
  11. Hi All, Thanks for all the advice on sub axle nut removal. Now that all is removed (took all weekend) and ready for reassembly with new bearings, I've shifted to rear disc brake conversion. My challenge is restoration planning. Not in love with the 14" western wheel cyclones on the car and I'm not in a position to pull the trigger on new 15" -16" wheels and tires (funds are directed elsewhere). Would prefer not to experience the sub axle removal again. Question, is there a rear disc brake conversion that will fit with the current 14" wheels? Thanks for the help.
  12. Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly.
  13. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-6000
  14. Hi All, I'm in suspension hell. Sure the Z vets out there who've gone through the fire prior are laughing. Cost is adding up rapidly as the shock towers were sent the local car shop for "F"ing gland nut and old cartridge removal. FYI - gland nut tool for $35.00 bucks does a fine job of rounding all the corners (not sure it the right size for the nut?), waste of money. Here my question, purchased Eibach progressive springs, Koni adjustable shocks and the new pillow ball spring seat and strut mount (see attached) from Motorsport. Anyone installed this set-up? Instructions on all parts are vague at best. The shocks have an aluminum sleeve that slides below the treads on the shaft, holds the bump stop? Concern, the original rubber insulator, not used on this set-up, the new spring seat mount and strut mount are metal on metal. Noise, vibration, banging or other? Would a thin piece of rubber between the two help? Any experience, tricks or advice would be great. Busted knuckles.