• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Blitzed

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    One Datsun always Datsun. 1969 SRL 311 Roadster fully restored. New owner 1973 240Z in restoration.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you for the parts options.
  2. Hi All, I own 2 R200 diffs. Need to deal with the parts at hand. The question still remains, which of the R200 diffs is the less expensive for CV' conversion? Clip in or bolt on to flanges? Only rebuilding one. Thanks for the advice.
  3. Flexibility and options with the engine power/mods. Engine NA (L28, N42 block and head) will be rebuilt or swapped this year. Not sure the direction at this point. Diff is being replaced/upgraded as part of the drive train overhaul. Installed a 5 speed trans, rebuilt the drive shaft and now the R200 diff upgrade. I'm working backwards, from the back of the car forward to handle additional power.
  4. Hi Zed Head, Our mind sets are the same with the diff "low budget with high value". Both are long nose carriers and appear to be the same size. I'll check for the retaining clips or clip grooves in the axle holes of the Yoke size DAT-110 300ZX. R200 with the haft axle flanges installed and the DAT-110 yoke. This diff came out of a running car (240Z) with stock half shafts and stock sub axle mounts (at the wheel). Are there any bolt in options for CV axles for this set up without mods? Or are the options limited to weld in sub flanges and other mods to install? Easy is not always cheaper. R200 diff with DAT-110 300ZX yoke, if retaining clips are present, less expense to find and install CV axles with the stock sub axle mounts (at the wheel) ? Or more mods? Reason for retaining unused ring set, both diffs are the same ratio, not for resale, future replacement part if needed. Thanks for the info.
  5. Hi All, Happy 2020! Recently acquired two Datsun R200 diffs. I'm a novice with Z the drive train configs so bear with me. The diffs are the same gear ratio. One has the input yoke listed below as DAT 110 and half shaft flanges on each side. The other has the input yoke listed as DAT 110 300ZX with no half shaft flanges. Both are round input yokes, one smaller than the other. In addition to the yoke comparison below, how can I determine which Z these diff's came from, Z31 or Z32. Serial numbers ? If the assumption (based on the image below) one is from a 280ZX and the other is from a 300ZX, is one diff preferred or better over the other? Reason I'm asking is only one will be completely rebuilt. Would like to spend the money on the preferred diff and keep the other for the ring set. Also will acquire CV axles for the best rebuilt diff. Is one diff better for with less modifications and less money to convert to CV's ? 73 240Z stock rear suspension config. Thanks for the advice.
  6. Hi All, So, one vote yes to the wheel hub position moving out and one vote no, same position with the spacer. Anyone on- line preformed the vented rotor and Toyota caliber upgrade on a stock 240Z brake and wheel assembly? Thanks for the info. Andrew
  7. Hi All, With regards to the Toyota vented brake upgrade front disk. Will the spacer required change the wheel hub position from the stock position (front only)? Meaning will the spacer move the wheel hub /rim/ tire further out in the fender well? Tires are already tight to the inside of the fender running 205's no flares. thanks , Andrew
  8. Thanks Mike and Mike, Just wanted to cut to point. Was not in the market for new wheels and tires. Unfortunately the disk brake upgrade (front and rear), with the 14" Western Wheels Turbines I had on the car cleared the caliber in the rear but would not clear the slightly larger caliper in the front (1/8" off). Two options, tow the car home or pull the trigger on larger 15" wheels and drive home. All had to done quickly, not a good position. BTW- The original (1976) set of Western Wheel Turbines are on the classified board. Wheels are in excellent condition and the tires are brand new (less then 100 miles). Nothing like large unexpected expenses. Thanks again for the info and confirmation. Andrew
  9. Hi All, First of all I've read several wheel fitment threads on the site. Please don't' shoot the messenger, still confused. Pushed into buying wheels and tires quickly (not good). Converted to vented rotors / rear disk brake conversion and now the 14" wheels do not fit over the front calipers. This would all be ok if the car was in my garage but it's 30 miles from my home in a service garage. The shame of spending dollars and having the car towed home, just doesn't seem right. Please only comment if you've have a similar config listed below. Only looking for confirmation on stock body (no flares) 240Z's. Specs: 1973 240Z with air dam (front valence removed), stock fenders, Eibach progressive springs on stock shock housings. Car is slightly lowered with the rear shock spacers installed. Will 15" x 7" 0 offset wheels and 205 x 60 x 15 tires fit without any issues? Need to purchase and deliver to get the car home. Thank you for your help,
  10. View Advert Original set of Western Wheels Turbines and tires 240Z Nice set of 14" x 5.5 Western Wheel Turbines (Installed 1976) for sale. Wheels are in great shape, no curb rash, new center caps Z logo. Tire are brand new 14 x 195 x 70. $600.00 Local pick only. Orange County, CA. Advertiser Blitzed Date 10/13/2019 Price $600.00 Category Parts for Sale  

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Nice set of 14" x 5.5 Western Wheel Turbines (Installed 1976) for sale. Wheels are in great shape, no curb rash, new center caps Z logo. Tire are brand new 14 x 195 x 70. $600.00 Local pick only. Orange County, CA.


    Placentia, California - US

  12. Sounds like you might have one of your hydraulic lines next to a heat source. The exhaust manifold or headers. All lines are in stock position, hard line runs along the firewall above the stock manifold and exhaust. flex line come off the body rail passenger side and slave is bolted to trans. It's all exposed to heat.
  13. Hi All, Thanks for the feedback. Spent the past 8 months knocking the ugly off the car. Car sat for 23 years in a garage so have no idea the performance / functionality of any part prior to storage. It's all a discovery process. Went through the entire braking and drive train. Just replaced the sub axle bearing so I'm sure the drive shaft and trans axle u-joint bolts are torqued. This is the only on-going issue. Purchased the slave attached from Z car parts of AZ. New master is straight forward, zero bleeder on the master. Single bleeder on the slave. Previous maintenance on the compression fitting (at the flex/rubber hose) was vise grip stripped so i replaced both hard (to the master) and flex or rubber to the slave to ensure no air leaks. Will double check all connections for torque and leaking and bleed again. Keep you posted. Could this be clutch failure?
  14. Hi All, 73 240Z with L28 transplant. Recently purchase a clutch pedal kit from a supplier (new clutch master, slave and rubber line). Also replaced the stainless line from the master to the rubber line. Using DOT 3 brake fluid in the master. Car shifts smoothly until 30 -45 mins driving. Once car is at temp, loose engagement from the slave (assume it's the slave and not the clutch). I can engage forward gears with a clunk 1st -4th, but will not shift into reverse (grind). 73 clutch slave, no spring from the bearing lever to the slave, single pedal adjustment on the master shaft to the pedal. First time it happened bleed the system, issue gone, shifting smoothly again. Next hour drive issue came back. I'm not sure this is an air or bleed issue, when the temp is down will shift smoothly again without bleeding or adjustment at the pedal. Where do I start? try a different fluid, replace the mater (valve expansion at temp), replace the slave? Any advise would be appreciated.
  15. Hi All, Took on the huge task of replacing all my suspension bushings (rubber). Front control arms tough but no issues. The rear control arms have been difficult. 8 hours to remove the pivot bushings at the forward shaft. Upon removal of the second bushing sleeve, stood back to pat myself on the back and the control arm fell out of the vise and donked the tube for the slide on bushing (24MM bolt) Does anyone know what tap size is needed to clean up the top threads in the tube? Note to self, leave bolts in the tube on the next arm. Thank you,