Topics Last Week

You might be skating on slightly thin ice if you reckon it would have had a 'Nissan 2000 OHC' valve cover when it left the factory.

Just a quick update: After returning from holidays, i spent some hours to finally sand down the remaining areas with old layers of paint, filler and primer: And finally: Done. Still needs a bit of love here and there, especially around the edges, but I'll leave that to the body shop. I Also made a little stress-test with my crack-repair and it seems pretty solid. So finally I got it installed back on the trunk at all original 6 mounting studs, like intended from the factory. It took me quite some hours to get that wing back into shape, but I think it was well worth it, and I'm more than happy i was able to save another OEM part which belongs to this car. Then I got some stuff in my mailbox: First. A spacer for the trunk / hatch damper, as mine are all toast. And more importantly at the moment: A bunch of fastener / retaining clips for the front fender side markers: Which allowed me to finally also test-fit the other side. Note protective foil on the lamp is just there to not damage it during trial fitments: And then I got a nice book from Autoliv in Sweden. They were the manufacturer of many of the aftermarket seat belts installed by European Import companies (along Britax). I asked them for a bit of Background information about the company and the specific seatbelts. They were not really able to help me with the 240Z seatbelts, since they're now a global company, but instead they sent me this very cool Company history book, which they released last year for internal use only, with some very cool information. I will prepare a post about those specific seat belts in the coming months. As for now, I wait for a few parts and information here and there, to proceed with the next steps on the car, but that should be possible in the next few days. I'll keep you updated.

I took the car to Caffeine and Octane on 9/7. While there, one of the attendees offered to take some pics of my recently restored 1971 Datsun 240Z. Looks to me like she used some kind of lens filter. Nice of her to send them along to me.

Nice! Adding a pic of the linked relay for posterity - never know when it will go dead

Let me know if you want info on the 2pole Bosch sensor.

I removed the degraded foam before using the 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. That was at least three years ago. The car has sat out in the weather year-round and still no sagging.

I've been reading about this guy for years but had no idea about this, I assume it's true but haven't checked. In 1972 he sets a record of 152 MPH at Bonneville in this car... Then Nissan ups the ante in 1976 to 166MPH with this car... The Datsun 240Z that rewrote the Bonneville record book _ Articles _ Classic Motorsports.html

Good question. I 've used it several times over the past decades and used it again on my 79 last year but I doubt that I'll be around in 20 years to confirm.

I just saw at 1982 280ZX list on Facebook Marketplace near me.

Nice, people can always PM me for it at €300,- (It's a clean unscratched clock the last time i checked, if not it will be less offcourse. And i send pics before selling.)

@Mike

Those are some cool turnbuckles with the moe clamp ends!

This is how the msd blaster 2 got wired to the tach, distributor and ballast. Hope im not missing anything. Tach is working but plug 4 is still getting fouled at idle.

The company known as SPAL no longer sells trinkets like the units you and Dave Irwin used back then. But the current units - there appear to be two basic designs, what I call the "separated drive system" like you, Dave and I have and the "combined drive system" where there is only one connector between the drive motor and the actuator that goes on the door handle spline shaft. You pay your money and you take your choice.

I have rebuilt circuit boards for the 75-78 280 OEM clocks and single knob RC (calendar clock) . Your core circuit board is required and the cost is $78 plus shipping and taxes . If you are interested or have questions please contact me, ron@zclocks.com Thanks for looking

I've read that the mixture screws raise or lower the nozzles 1mm per revolution. One can raise the nozzles to the top and lower them 10 turns. At ten turns, the fuel level should be near the top of the nozzles.

Cliff, you can buy a lot of Powerball tickets for $12,000 😎.

I really needed one more week to work on the OG before I left for Zcon. Just one more week would have made the whole drive so much less stressful. I would have known that I had a radiator problem and I would have mitigated it before I left. But I lost that week waiting for struts because Amazon screwed up. So here's where I am today. I took the leaky radiator I got at the show to a local radiator shop. They sealed up the leaks and pressure tested it. I swapped it into the car, and.... Driving around with no thermostat, it wouldn't even reach proper temperature!! Way better than what was in there! So just to see where the gauge would land, I put a 160 degree thermostat and went for a drive. It stabilized about here: So next chance I get, I will swap out the 160 for a 180 thermostat and check again to see where the gauge lands. But the bottom line is I'm a whole lot better off than I was with the previous radiator! I blame Amazon. And photobucket.

Worked for Grannyknot using zero-forgiveness sheet metal. I don't see the problem.

They wrote great songs but I can't think of any covers that were done. What a shame.

Here's a very familiar picture, I'm pretty sure Zkars put up for us, that shows where the fluid should be. The top of the rectangle.

As long as we’ve brought up our daily drivers, every time I go to the Toyota dealership they were telling how much mine was worth and how I should trade it! I double crossed them and sold it to a private party for $36K and bought this! Holy Schmidt it’s fast for an SUV. Porsche Macan GTS. That’s one of the other three Porsches sticking its tail out of the garage behind it…