gundee

I see on their site for .495 and over he lists p/n 68025 spring set. I would use his matching retainers too.

I pulled the pan in car on my 240 with a L28 engine. Just used combination of hand tools to get all the bolts out. Not too bad as I recall. What I soon found out is that pan does not just pull out. There is a little something called an oil pick up in the pan that of course is bolted to the block. The next thing I did was unbolt the motor mounts to lift engine some to wiggle pan out. Nope, that did not work. Next you have to reach in with a box end wrench and loosen the pickup. Still a struggle, so I removed the pickup all together. Then the pan came right out. Bead blasted old peeling paint off pan. Then primed and painted. Then a coat of clear. This step makes for wiping the pan in the future easier. Install in reverse order, but don't get in a hurry and scratch the new paint like I did. I used the felpro pan gasket. I used all new s.s. bolts and washers. If you are going to use the old bolts you may as well paint them as well to make job look good. First time I ever did it so had no idea what it was going to entail. Not real fun doing on your back but got her done.

Just a tip. If you have the cast iron maifold and is off the car, lay a good straight edge across the face. Mine was very warped. Took it to machine shop to have cut straight. Not only will it seal better when put back on car but will relieve stresses on the studs tighting back to spec.

+1 Best I have ever used for engine compartments for all the cars I have had.

Right. I forgot the air horns. Add another $270 no need to spend.

I can I can add that even though the price may seem high to some, madkaw is including around $800 or so in heat shield, jets, spares & misc. I am talking from my own experience. Buying a set without these and you will find out soon what the real cost is.

I asked this question when I ordered my Rewinds. They said use the "bulge" style lug nuts. Not the tapered ones.

Changed the rear spoiler to body color. I like it better.

Unseasonal 68 degrees here today. Trying some different jetting then one last drive. Then on jackstands to get wheels off the ground for winter. Drove her less than 300 miles this summer.

My L28 is a N42 with N42 head. All the valve seats are steel. I don't really know if mine came from a 75 or 76 model 280Z.

There was a pair just on Ebay for 2 weeks that were what you are looking for but sold. Sometimes you have to buy a pair to get what you want. A single of the side you want that needs no repair are very hard to find. Very lucky if you do find one.

Yes you can if its just event touring or a track day event. Are you racing E Production SCCA?

Do you mean like this Sebring team car? Hmmmm.

You can but you don't have to. They are 2 seperate systems. Front first or rear first. Whatever makes you feel better.

Yes, I asked the vintage race engine builder that has done some work for me. When I asked what he does he said 30wt oil, set down and let drain for 20 minutes. Then install and torque.

Old diagram. Hope this helps. The MSD6A and the 6AL wire the same way.

If that were my car, I would send it to Mecum, Barrett Jackson, Russo & Steele or Gooding and Company. I would not even think twice. But to each his own. I think they would recommend you raise the car back up some to get more attention. Many potential $$$ buyers are not after that look.

The Hollenbeck Team GT3 240Z from New York in the Nissan tent.

I usually removed my fan. No heat issues with the tripple core radiator on mine.

I recently removed all four rubber brake hoses and replaced with new braided stainless flex lines.

Count me in with the exact same issue. Leak for the past two summers. Not real bad. I think mine could be transmission seal because I changed to synthetic Redline gear oil. I don't think the old origional 1978 transmission oil seal likes that. Clutch is not slipping. Car gets put away for Winter in a month so no fix this year. I guess in Spring I will drop the gearbox and replace both the transmission seal and rear engine seal.

I have an electric pump on my 1972 connected to the factory preinstalled wiring. It runs with the key on and engine not running. Can't speak for a 260Z. But you can hear the pump if it is running for sure.

I installed a Centerforce clutch kit with my aftermarket light flywheel. Never any problems with mine. Not sure what they are refering to.

Photo from 2005.

This is the earliest I could find of my 72 240. I believe this is from 1978.